370m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 350m. Arguably the most famous route in this chapter.
1) 6a+. Quite a start! Climb a crack before following a grey ramp-line out right to a ledge. The belay is at the far end of this.
2) 5c. Climb a thin crack on the left.
3) 6a. Make a short, rising traverse leftwards then go up a steep section which is short but packs quite a punch!
4) 6a+. Follow a fantastic thin crack straight up a pillar.
5) 5b. Head up the chimney/ramp that leads out left.
6) 6a. Make a short, delicate traverse left and then follow a crack easily up a slab to a large ledge. The route steepens considerably from here on.
7) 6a. Climb up to the left of a large flake and above this, traverse several metres to the right following a superb series of small flakes up to a ledge.
8) 6a. Follow a slab out right and then go straight up, immediately to the right of a corner.
9) 6a. Head up and left to gain a shallow corner and go up this.
10) 6a. Climb the slabby spur on the right. There is a bold section in the middle of this and at the top of it is a small gap which you have to step across. The belay is 5m higher.
11) 6a. Go straight up the spur above and then drift up and left across a slab.
12) 5c. Gain the corner on the right and then follow a chimney out left. A final short, wide crack up a slab takes you onto the summit.
Descent - Abseil back down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
See http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/53909/fr/premiere-pointe-des-nantillons-bienvenue-au-georges-v

Piola & Strappazzon Sep/1986

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Yunghui 13 Sep - Pitch8
with LAN
Pitch8
with LAN
Anne Fairbank 22 Aug AltLd Excellent route. Led all the 5b/5c pitches.
Excellent route. Led all the 5b/5c pitches.
markfairbank 22 Aug AltLd O/S Beautiful route, easily accessible from the Envers hut. Walked up the day before so got an early start and first on route. Got a touch lost finding P7 resulting in a short ab back down and a wasted hour (belay is down and right of large undercut flake on right wall). Topped out in good time though and abbed back down the route in time for dinner at the hut. Best route we did of the trip.
Beautiful route, easily accessible from the Envers hut. Walked up the day before so got an early start and first on route. Got a touch lost finding P7 resulting in a short ab back down and a wasted hour (belay is down and right of large undercut flake on right wall). Topped out in good time though and abbed back down the route in time for dinner at the hut. Best route we did of the trip.
benji landau 4 Aug AltLd
with Dan Dan
with Dan Dan
Dan dan Spiezer 4 Aug -
metrorat 1 Aug AltLd O/S Sustained and technical, bit of a sandbag maybe. Think we may have taken a pitch or two on neighbouring routes though. Fantastic summit and views.
with Euan Maharg
Sustained and technical, bit of a sandbag maybe. Think we may have taken a pitch or two on neighbouring routes though. Fantastic summit and views.
with Euan Maharg
tuko 12 Jul -
WillHempstead 27 Jun AltLd O/S Really good
with Rob Giddy
Really good
with Rob Giddy
Robertgiddy 27 Jun AltLd
Riina Laitinen 25 Sep, 2018 2nd
Hidden 25 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Phil_Brock 26 Aug, 2018 2nd dog With Corra from Chamex. Andy had to be lowered off after the tough first pitch as his shoulder had popped out and back in! Mix of physical cracks to be jammed / laybacked and mostly holdless slabs. Had to hang on the rope to get a piece of gear out on pitch 1 but did all the moves free. Two pulls on quickdraws to get past tricky moves on two of the friction slab pitches where my footwork let me down. Happy to have made it up with minimal french free techique, felt very tough for the grade but maybe because I'm not used to smooth granite.
With Corra from Chamex. Andy had to be lowered off after the tough first pitch as his shoulder had popped out and back in! Mix of physical cracks to be jammed / laybacked and mostly holdless slabs. Had to hang on the rope to get a piece of gear out on pitch 1 but did all the moves free. Two pulls on quickdraws to get past tricky moves on two of the friction slab pitches where my footwork let me down. Happy to have made it up with minimal french free techique, felt very tough for the grade but maybe because I'm not used to smooth granite.
williap 14 Aug, 2018 2nd French free?
with Jase
French free?
with Jase
katy_abra 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 Lead
jasewilson ?Aug, 2018 -
QuentinSu 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
davkeo 30 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome. We managed to add a pitch, to make 13, after going wrong somewhere around p10. Consistent climbing at trad 5a/5b with some bits of trad 5c. Anni managed to wander onto a slab 6b of an adjoining route (nails at trad 6a ish). Lots of tough slabs with some brilliant cracks. A classic.
Awesome. We managed to add a pitch, to make 13, after going wrong somewhere around p10. Consistent climbing at trad 5a/5b with some bits of trad 5c. Anni managed to wander onto a slab 6b of an adjoining route (nails at trad 6a ish). Lots of tough slabs with some brilliant cracks. A classic.
Hidden 30 Jul, 2018 AltLd
lanky ?Jul, 2018 AltLd not as good as amazonia
with Pete
not as good as amazonia
with Pete
Rhys Deane 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jack Metcalfe
with Jack Metcalfe
JackM92 4 Sep, 2017 - Quality. Rockfax topo contradicts their description at times, Piola guidebook vastly superior for this!
Quality. Rockfax topo contradicts their description at times, Piola guidebook vastly superior for this!
john lynch 29 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Brilliant route, lots of interesting climbing and we'll protected. Amazing summit on top of the spike :)
Brilliant route, lots of interesting climbing and we'll protected. Amazing summit on top of the spike :)
Bethan May Davies 29 Aug, 2017 2nd What an incredible climb, to top of a 5.5 hour walk through via ferrata, and some of the most beautiful views I have ever seen. The whole thing felt so adventurous! Finishing up on the spiky pinnacle was one to remember.
What an incredible climb, to top of a 5.5 hour walk through via ferrata, and some of the most beautiful views I have ever seen. The whole thing felt so adventurous! Finishing up on the spiky pinnacle was one to remember.
jimbonfire 15 Aug, 2017 Lead Only first 3 pitches
Only first 3 pitches
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd
ClimberJimmyB 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
martinov 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S With Desi & Silveto. We've went off-route so I had to lead the 6c pitch of the route on the left, after that one we were able to join the line of the route we've started.
With Desi & Silveto. We've went off-route so I had to lead the 6c pitch of the route on the left, after that one we were able to join the line of the route we've started.
Kris 4 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
ian d f 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 2 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S The slabs were tricky but do-able. Felt great after a stay in the hut.
The slabs were tricky but do-able. Felt great after a stay in the hut.
pearson9596 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
liamo333 ?Aug, 2015 -
Paul Collins 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd
liamo333 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Claire Molloy 9 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Beautiful climbing in a spectacular setting. We had an early start to stay cool. Lots of lovely slabs with great friction but interspersed with cracks and flakes and lots of lay backing. Probably the best climb I have ever done.
with Mark Thomas
Beautiful climbing in a spectacular setting. We had an early start to stay cool. Lots of lovely slabs with great friction but interspersed with cracks and flakes and lots of lay backing. Probably the best climb I have ever done.
with Mark Thomas
walts4 ??, 2015 -
Uisdean hawthorn 3 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Mihkel 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Excellent. Mostly trad with bolted belays and odd bolt on slabs (as per most of routes here). Best bits were steep finger crack at very start (Nik's lead) and a tricky slab in middle (me). One single move higher up (that Nik frigged on lead, when off route taking too direct a line, but freed on second) was way harder than anything else on route (double crimp press with smear for foot... wild!). Apart from that move, probably consistent E1. Rap descent. 8 hrs.
Excellent. Mostly trad with bolted belays and odd bolt on slabs (as per most of routes here). Best bits were steep finger crack at very start (Nik's lead) and a tricky slab in middle (me). One single move higher up (that Nik frigged on lead, when off route taking too direct a line, but freed on second) was way harder than anything else on route (double crimp press with smear for foot... wild!). Apart from that move, probably consistent E1. Rap descent. 8 hrs.
JonnoP 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Chad123 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd Warm up route in the envers and sadly we went off route half way up doing two (fun) pitches of a harder route before abbing off due to the rain. First six pitches were great fun though and really well protected with trad gear and bolts on blank sections.
with JonnoP, Rik
Warm up route in the envers and sadly we went off route half way up doing two (fun) pitches of a harder route before abbing off due to the rain. First six pitches were great fun though and really well protected with trad gear and bolts on blank sections.
with JonnoP, Rik
Dave Searle 15 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Stu Mcaleese
with Stu Mcaleese
Brannock 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Alt leads with Hamish D, very good route, got a bit crowded on the descent, felt hard in places, but not used to technical granite climbing.
Alt leads with Hamish D, very good route, got a bit crowded on the descent, felt hard in places, but not used to technical granite climbing.
AnnaBacklund ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
pauldrew 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd
pete johnson ?Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
edek_w ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
James W 7 Aug, 2012 2nd consistently fantastic
with Mark Thomas
consistently fantastic
with Mark Thomas
Owain Llewelyn 30 Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Ed
with Ed
roberto18 9 Sep, 2011 AltLd best climb I have ever done
with Tom Nickols
best climb I have ever done
with Tom Nickols
jonnie3430 16 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Grezza 8 Aug, 2010 AltLd Great route; pitches 7-10 particularly excellent
Great route; pitches 7-10 particularly excellent
Hidden 22 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
kaiser 7 Jul, 2008 2nd walked up, ab-ed down, climbed up, fell off! Will be tough when the slabs get polished like Idwal!
with Gilles & Frank
walked up, ab-ed down, climbed up, fell off! Will be tough when the slabs get polished like Idwal!
with Gilles & Frank
Hidden 8 Aug, 1994 Lead
mattnuttall 25 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
with Gilles
with Gilles
alpinist63 ?Aug, 1990 AltLd O/S
Robmwatt ??, 1990 -
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
Hidden ?Jul, 1987 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1986 AltLd
54 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set