UKC

370m.

Rockfax Description
II, 250m. This is one of the best routes in the Envers des Aiguilles and takes in some great granite slabs. Finishing up Guy-Anne, l'Insolite is highly recommended.
1) 5c. Cross the bergschrund then climb a short corner.
2) 6a+. Go straight up to a peg and then traverse left on slabs before a thin, steep crack leads to a belay ledge.
3) 6a. Follow a ramp out right, passing an abseil station on the way, before following a hand-crack horizontally left.
4) 6a+. Go straight up a crack for a few metres then left across a slab (bolt) to reach a steep hand-crack, which leads to a belay.
5) 5c. Climb the crack above the belay and follow it rightwards.
6) 6a+. Go straight up the slab via some superb, bolt-protected moves.
7) 6a. Climb directly up from the belay then go slightly left to reach a slab on a pillar. Go up this and step left to belay.
8) 5c. Climb up immediately to the right of a huge block to reach a platform on the left.
9) 5c. Go up the corner above the belay and then a slab.
10) 5c. Climb 5m straight up from the belay then step left to join pitch 9 of Guy-Anne, l'Insolite. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6a obligatory. Sustained 5c/6a with a F6a+ crux free.

Piola/Hopfgartner Sep/1984.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stone Muppet 22 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I think P3 rockfax description is wrong, the hand crack seems to go straight up rather than horizontally left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think P3 rockfax description is wrong, the hand crack seems to go straight up rather than horizontally left

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cordier Pillar

Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Charmoz Grepon)

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