II, 250m. This is one of the best routes in the Envers des Aiguilles and takes in some of the best granite slabs around. Finishing up Guy-Anne, l'Insolite is highly recommended. 1) 5c. Cross the bergschrund then climb a short corner.2) 6a+. Go straight up to a peg and then traverse left on slabs before a thin, steep crack leads to a belay ledge.3) 6a. Follow a ramp out right, passing an abseil station on the way, before following a hand-crack horizontally left.4) 6a+. Go straight up a crack for a few metres then go left across a slab (bolt) to reach a steep hand-crack, which leads to a belay.5) 5c. Climb the crack above the belay and follow it rightwards.6) 6a+. Go straight up the slab via some superb, bolt-protected moves.7) 6a. Climb directly up from the belay then go slightly left to reach a slab on a pillar. Go up this and step left to belay.8) 5c. Climb up immediately to the right of a huge block to reach a platform on the left.9) 5c. Go up the corner above the belay and then a slab.10) 5c. Climb 5m straight up from the belay then step left to join pitch 9 of Guy-Anne, l'Insolite.Descent - Abseil back down. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6a obligatory. Sustained 5c/6a with a F6a+ crux free.
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