Rockfax Description
A steady little face-climb that heads right from Doughnuts and Duvets and then up the wall to the first roof and break. © Rockfax

FA. A. Jende 13/Mar/1993

Ticklists: Portland.

riff156 13/Jan Lead O/S
with Dean
dinodinosaur 13/Jan Lead O/S
George89 20/Nov/17 Lead dog
Whitmoreaa 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
ben1234 16/Sep/17 2nd dog
Paul Hicks 16/Sep/17 Lead dog

Almost had the OS. Held quick draw mid area. Go left for the LO

with Ben Maskrey
Paul Hicks 16/Sep/17 TR rpt

Cracking route. Really enjoyed it.

with Ben Maskrey
Kayface42 28/Aug/17 Lead RP

Didn't understand one move on first attempt as there are no hand holds but Si's beta got me up 2nd go. Pleasant climb.

with Si
Linc 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Kay
dryvita 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

not nothing

with Ed Bot
SallyM 16/Aug/17 Lead dog
with Doug
dohart 16/Aug/17 Lead RP
with SallyM
Tommy Harris 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Hannah
Chops 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
MDR61 24/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Crux near top good value for 6a

with Jerome Curoy
Richard L 04/Jun/17 Lead O/S

one rest

with Ian Bird, Karen Wood
Hidden 20/May/17 Lead rpt
clemmiethompson 13/May/17 TR O/S
with Dave
TJ616 13/May/17 -
wjehring 13/May/17 Lead O/S
David Staples 13/May/17 Lead rpt
with Clemmie
Rupey 07/May/17 Lead rpt
gsavell 17/Apr/17 Lead dog
with Sarah Knight
Happy Wanderer 25/Mar/17 Lead dog

Top pitch tricky and took a while to spot the layaway flow stone move and then pluck up the courage. Slightly more challenging for the vertically challenged.

with Roger F
TomatoPro 25/Mar/17 Lead

Really....varied. Nuff said.

with Cindy
guy127917 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Jen
Bones [:B 25/Mar/17 2nd
cindylmy 25/Mar/17 2nd O/S

First onsight 6a! Blank at the top but managed to use a mono that was amazing.

Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
LuapRagas 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Started going up the 6B, down climbed, then had all sorts of rope drag bolt nonsense, but sent it anyway.

tinners88 15/Aug/16 TR dog
TommyKips 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Xelif 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jen
Jen BXM S 22/Jul/16 TR O/S
Challpike 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
saraguti 12/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Great technical and delicate climbing. Deserves one star for sure.

with Nacho
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/16 2nd dog
s.thursz 30/Apr/16 Lead
TomRiddelsdell 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Horton
Horton 09/Apr/16 TR β
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
CraigPerl 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Jenny James
MarcinK ??/2016 Lead dnf
with Piotr Slezak
dohart 28/Oct/15 Lead dog

Another last route of the day - should have done really -as its pretty straight forward AND you can stand on a ledge to work out the move (1 out of 10 for effort). Really good route though.

with darren
bvilsue 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Rebeca
bryan61 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with m meaney
wyzfen 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Dana
danusiatycia 26/Sep/15 TR
Paul Baxter 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead dog
DanielGyi 04/Jul/15 Lead
LaraKate224 04/Jul/15 -
chris85 ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Rupey 28/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with alan
Chris Sansum 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth White
brian watson 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Brian
lewiz 14/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Beata
AJ007 09/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
knighty 07/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Wicked moves. Quite delicate. Very fun.

SuperLee1985 07/Dec/14 2nd
with knighty
neveyj 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt

first 6a lead, top ropped first

Giles Davis 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
Sophie Gibbens 24/Aug/14 2nd
bobstones 24/Aug/14 Lead dog
richardashe 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Trannum
royle883 12/Aug/14 Lead dog

Found the section between the penultimate and last bolts a bit tricky, bled quite a lot. Fun climbing.

Ugly Kid Jo 09/Aug/14 2nd

Delicate face/slab route. I tried to lead it first but didn't make it.

with Chomp
Nick Clement 07/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
BIgYeti86 04/Aug/14 Lead
rushy11111918 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Stephen Powell
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
sideshow84 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
clairemathews 26/Jul/14 TR
TomRiddelsdell 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Has a pretty tricky rockover for a 5+. I think this was harder than a lots of the 6a'a in the area

Matt77 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S

5+ in my guidebook and tricky at that grade.

with Tom Riddelsdell
Hidden 13/Jul/14 -
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
sarpedon 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead
emmafizzle 14/May/14 Lead rpt

had to downclimb a few times to get the trust with my feet near the top, overall a nice climb

Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/May/14 Lead
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
petegruf 16/Mar/14 Lead
with Chris p cc
rd20 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Alex CC
Nick Clement ??/2014 Lead
with mandy clement
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead
wil_perry 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JayAsh 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with BZ
albt 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Mimi, Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
Flippy ?/Jul/13 Lead
with Emma
Jack93 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Quite airy at the top

Amy Hare 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
gibsond 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/13 Lead
Thomas Korrison 18/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
lewiz 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Pete Dangerous 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Gocha Gamrot
patrickc 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sue
AndyMcCoy 30/Mar/13 2nd RP

First climb of day, could barely feel fingers. Tried leading it, but felt too precarious in the cold so Bill did it. Seconded it cleanly. couldleading.

with Bill
Ed morris 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

v pleasant end to a good day

with Ian
Hidden 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/12 -
Peter Lovell 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
angie 29/Sep/12 TR
davemcummings 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First 6a lead outdoors. Brilliant climb.

bsparky 28/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR rpt
Helen Gibson 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

one tricky, balancy move..quite a nice warm-up.

with Paul
mattgrange 19/Aug/12 Lead β

Much easier than the last time I did it, when it was my first outdoor lead and scared me witless!

cpoad 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Neil C
Dan_F 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

pretty cool route really enjoyed it..cant beleive its not worthy of stars tbh

Markmclimby 04/Aug/12 TR dnf

Managed to almost get to the ledge but my fingers missed a hold and that was that.. I thought best leave it and come back with a fresh head.

with Dan_F
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Good
Adamwillclimb 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Jaime Mitchell 27/May/12 2nd O/S
ellmang 26/May/12 Lead
SteveHC 20/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 -
Paula Ryan ?/May/12 TR
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
RioVista23 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Solid climb with a trickier finish

nataliehaigh 12/Apr/12 Lead dog

Very challenging for me as I'm still very scared of leading. Got myself into two situations where I rested as I didn't know what to do, climbed up a little above the clip and then got scared and down climbed to the clip. After deliberation, I eventually pushed on. At the higher crux I encountered a blank wall (well blank for me) and eventually found a balancy position to clip from. Whilst clipping, I pulled the rope up but although I was high enough the drag in the rope and my tentative position meant that I had the rope loop 2cms below the clip for ages without being able to pull it higher without unseating myself. When I tried to pull it up and clip again I felt myself fall away. I was so scared as my worst fear is falling whilst clipping the next bolt! I'm ashamed to say that I grabbed the quick draw to stop me coming off and then clipped it. I was cross, but I would have been super scared if I'd actually fallen at this point. I took a rest after this and did the move again to prove to myself that I could do it. Overall pleased that I managed to push on through the scary above bolt bits of the climb even after taking a couple of small falls and getting scared. Lots to work on though!

mikehenesy 17/Mar/12 TR
DaveGarrity 17/Mar/12 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
Gambit 02/Mar/12 2nd
with Barney
Hidden 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
robajob 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jan/12 Lead β
markfromstoke 07/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Ian
ian d f 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
angie ??/2012 -
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead
robblowen 22/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Chris, Jules
tcn_2002 16/Oct/11 Lead
pearson9596 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
samparsons 08/Oct/11 Lead
gidmord 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead dnf
timreynolds 18/Sep/11 Lead
mikehenesy 18/Sep/11 2nd
Vince 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Percy
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Turner 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
louby 14/Aug/11 Lead
chris_B 14/Aug/11 Lead
benparratt 05/Aug/11 Lead dog
laurence orchard 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with George Newham
lewiz 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
TiffTiff 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Grace
Greg Pittam 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Stanbridge
airwalk123 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
willreddin 19/Jun/11 TR
Coops_13 29/May/11 Lead dog

fell after being too pumped at top

with Tom Sturgeon
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead
Dave Reeve 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Cousins
Matt250 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S
hotfeet 23/Apr/11 -
jgustafsson 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, did it twice.

with Jen
Danh89 21/Apr/11 Lead dog
with LukeyG
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead β
rd20 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Mark S, Jason
kleinej 27/Mar/11 TR
with Mark S, Robert
Mr Tickle 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tradguy 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
bluesharper 13/Mar/11 Lead β

pre-placed quickdraws

with Roger
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tbs105 ??/2011 -
Ian Bell ??/2011 Lead O/S
Matt250 ??/2011 2nd O/S
clukins 20/Nov/10 Lead β
phildavies84 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Craig
Ed Babs 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Magnus
manwithacam 19/Sep/10 AltLd

dust rock but enjoyable climbing, sustained, thin and delicate. A bit stiff for the grade?

with Joris
Steve13 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 15/Sep/10 Lead
Jonathan Emett 15/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Braintax 11/Sep/10 Lead
jamespilgrim 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tania 04/Sep/10 Lead β
with mike
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
najki_2000 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

a few sharp holds at the bottom section, thin moves in the upper half, but quite a nice climb

with Chris Rose
Hidden 09/Aug/10 Lead RP
mikeconway 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Rob Laird 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
clipskipper 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
duncan 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
saz_b 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Thought it was a touch hard for 5+, glad it has been felt by everyone else! Nice route, fingery delicate finish.

with Dugald
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jim Gaffney 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Cooper
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Andy
toby2000 ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead β
fildac 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Oli
Matt Smith 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Felt harder than a 5+ and apparently it is.

John Tanner 26/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 TR dnf
Don Jebus 20/May/10 Lead O/S
ahaynes 13/May/10 Lead dog

Thought the last 2 bolts deserve a higher grade of 6a or slightly more. Next time.....

with Eddie Goodey
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Popkids 24/Apr/10 TR O/S
with david
Bob 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with G. Macauley
3 Names 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
g1m147 23/Mar/10 Lead
with Bob
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Ian JL 27/Feb/10 Lead rpt
mark4344 30/Sep/09 2nd
with Matt Payne
Hidden 30/Sep/09 Lead dog
sophie291188 ?/Sep/09 TR
Rob Laird 30/Aug/09 Lead dog

Surprisingly hard top section.

with B Sosin
mr random 30/Aug/09 2nd dnf

Could not do the very last move, the guide gives it 5+ def 6a.

sara n 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Karl Blanchet
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dog
jon bradley 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route, much harder at top

with Huw Howells
Hidden 03/Aug/09 Lead β
JimR 12/Jul/09 -
RFWilkie 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Monk 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Julesthe1st 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Stana
BicepAndrews 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
keithpeck 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 20/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Fran, Chris Bailey, Riaz Shaik
philhaigh 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JonHarvey 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
langar27 16/Jun/09 2nd
Chris Harding 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Stevenson
jl 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Brad, Penny
The Mountain Goat 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
dannyboy83 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
DeclanMurphy 04/May/09 Lead
with Melody
Whitto 02/May/09 Lead dog
andyfeds 12/Apr/09 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead RP
AndyM-LVB 03/Apr/09 Lead RP

Great climb, very technical, but very hard for the grade. We both thought 6a+ at least.

with Nicolas Tardy
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Beck Robinson 15/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead dog
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
Thinker01 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
thompson1000 ??/2009 Lead
jominator ??/2009 Lead
Ceridwen ?/Dec/08 TR β
jacobjlloyd ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with John Scarrott
Tightsgirl ?/Oct/08 Lead
shoulders 28/Sep/08 Lead
with dai
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead dog
MarkRyder 26/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Rich
vertigo 26/Sep/08 Lead β
lemon 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Peter Brook
Joemanglerocks 22/Sep/08 Lead
with Ed Causton
FrostyWebb 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 05/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Alan (Craggy)
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead β
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
djp1 09/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Greg
chalk bunny ?/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Chris Warmington
steve taylor 25/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
flatcap 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A delicate climb. I really didn't feel to confident about this one. I had to take my time at the top.

with Phil
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/08 Lead

agree with the description, and other comments about the top. bottom rock a wee bit cheesy.

Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
trev_f 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Alex M
existing debt 21/May/08 2nd
with Iain a
Julian Mowbray 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Richard
rd20 10/May/08 Lead dog

slight slip last section

with Roslyn
will6459 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with andy
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Marilyn
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd dnf
Hidden 13/Oct/07 TR
Hidden 29/Sep/07 -
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/07 -
tobydunford 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead dnf
Julie Carroll 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

lovely climb, especially top section . . . . . beautiful!

with Suzie, Carole Dawson
harryt 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Really nice absorbing route. Why no stars? Disagree with the comments about the grade - lots easier than the other 6as that I dogged (Meg's got Leukaemia etc) this weekend.

with Patrick
Hidden ?/Jun/07 -
Steerpike 19/May/07 Lead β
with Bruce
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Luke Marsden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
Darragh ?/Apr/07 -
Hidden 24/Mar/07 TR dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead dnf
clipskipper 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Ok up to the split with Doughnuts, then gets thin and very fingery. Sandbag with the true grade around 6a - bit of a shock and scary in places.

with armchair climbing
Hidden ?/Oct/06 2nd
vet 19/Aug/06 TR RP

NH leads but takes 6b route to finish, by mistake.

with Nick
Wilbur 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Awful downgrade - it's at least F6a...

with George
jimjimmyjimjim 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Abi Chard ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Peter Swift ??/2006 Lead dog
with paul
lukea 16/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with dan
michael burrows 05/Oct/05 Lead O/S
MikeC59 29/May/05 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Haglington ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
Hidden 03/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 03/Sep/01 Lead β

This is quite simply not F5+. Used to get F6a+ in the 2000 Dorset Rockfax

with dean howard
AlexD 10/Sep/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
tapley 24/Jun/99 2nd
with Simon Tapley
uphillnow ??/1999 Lead

done several times

Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Paul_southgate68 ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with chris williams/jon ratcliffe
Hidden 14/May/98 Lead O/S
nai 06/Jul/97 Lead
with Rob Smitton
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 14/Jul/96 Lead O/S

The original 6a+ grade seemed the right grade for this climb. The crux is defo 5c

with Steve Lucas
chris sm 17/Feb/96 Lead O/S
Kevster ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 -
rob.grafton 29/May/95 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 17/Apr/95 Lead
Dringo ??/1995 -
Ben Thorne ??/1995 Lead O/S

Was 6a+ because the whole wall stood a lot more upright in the 90's. It's slumped and as such was downgraded. Crux is still 6a+ territory but the rest isn't any more.

with Rich Howard
Nigel Coe ??/1994 Lead

Approx date

MoWalker3 01/Jan/93 -
with Joe
clark alston ?/Jan/93 Lead O/S
with Dick Hanson
Ezy Ryder ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
12 users have this on their wishlist
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 82
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set