Rockfax Description
A steady little face-climb that heads right from Doughnuts and Duvets and then up the wall to the first roof and break. © Rockfax

FA. A. Jende 13/Mar/1993

Ticklists: Portland.

gsavell 17/Apr Lead dog
with Sarah Knight
Happy Wanderer 25/Mar Lead dog

Top pitch tricky and took a while to spot the layaway flow stone move and then pluck up the courage. Slightly more challenging for the vertically challenged.

with Roger F
TomatoPro 25/Mar Lead

Really....varied. Nuff said.

with Cindy
guy127917 25/Mar Lead O/S
with Jen
Jen Jones 25/Mar 2nd
cindylmy 25/Mar 2nd O/S

First onsight 6a! Blank at the top but managed to use a mono that was amazing.

LuapRagas 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Started going up the 6B, down climbed, then had all sorts of rope drag bolt nonsense, but sent it anyway.

tinners88 15/Aug/16 TR dog
TommyKips 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Xelif 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jen
Jen BXM S 22/Jul/16 TR O/S
Challpike 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
saraguti 12/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Great technical and delicate climbing. Deserves one star for sure.

with Nacho
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/16 2nd dog
s.thursz 30/Apr/16 Lead
TomRiddelsdell 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Horton
Horton 09/Apr/16 TR β
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
CraigPerl 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Jenny James
MarcinK ??/2016 Lead dnf
with Piotr Slezak
dohart 28/Oct/15 Lead dog

Another last route of the day - should have done really -as its pretty straight forward AND you can stand on a ledge to work out the move (1 out of 10 for effort). Really good route though.

with darren
bvilsue 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Rebeca
bryan61 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with m meaney
wyzfen 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Dana
danusiatycia 26/Sep/15 TR
Paul Baxter 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Pilar
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead dog
DanielGyi 04/Jul/15 Lead
LaraKate224 04/Jul/15 -
chris85 ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Rupey 28/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with alan
Chris Sansum 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth White
brian watson 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Brian
lewiz 14/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Beata
AJ007 09/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
knighty 07/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Wicked moves. Quite delicate. Very fun.

SuperLee1985 07/Dec/14 2nd
with knighty
neveyj 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt

first 6a lead, top ropped first

Giles Davis 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
Sophie Gibbens 24/Aug/14 2nd
bobstones 24/Aug/14 Lead dog
richardashe 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Trannum
royle883 12/Aug/14 Lead dog

Found the section between the penultimate and last bolts a bit tricky, bled quite a lot. Fun climbing.

Ugly Kid Jo 09/Aug/14 2nd

Delicate face/slab route. I tried to lead it first but didn't make it.

with Chomp
Nick Clement 07/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
BIgYeti86 04/Aug/14 Lead
rushy11111918 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Stephen Powell
AndThenIWasFlying 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
sideshow84 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
clairemathews 26/Jul/14 TR
TomRiddelsdell 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Has a pretty tricky rockover for a 5+. I think this was harder than a lots of the 6a'a in the area

Matt77 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S

5+ in my guidebook and tricky at that grade.

with Tom Riddelsdell
Hidden 13/Jul/14 -
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
sarpedon 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
emmafizzle 14/May/14 Lead rpt

had to downclimb a few times to get the trust with my feet near the top, overall a nice climb

Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/May/14 Lead
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
petegruf 16/Mar/14 Lead
with Chris cc
rd20 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Alex CC
Nick Clement ??/2014 Lead
with mandy clement
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead
wil_perry 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JayAsh 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with BZ
albt 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Mimi, Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead dog
Flippy ?/Jul/13 Lead
with Emma
Jack93 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Quite airy at the top

Amy Hare 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
gibsond 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/13 Lead
Thomas Korrison 18/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
lewiz 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Pete Dangerous 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Gocha Gamrot
patrickc 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sue
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd RP
Ed morris 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

v pleasant end to a good day

with Ian
Hidden 03/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/12 -
Peter Lovell 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
angie 29/Sep/12 TR
davemcummings 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S

First 6a lead outdoors. Brilliant climb.

bsparky 28/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR rpt
Helen Gibson 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

one tricky, balancy move..quite a nice warm-up.

with Paul
mattgrange 19/Aug/12 Lead β

Much easier than the last time I did it, when it was my first outdoor lead and scared me witless!

cpoad 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Neil C
Dan_F 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

pretty cool route really enjoyed it..cant beleive its not worthy of stars tbh

Markmclimby 04/Aug/12 TR dnf

Managed to almost get to the ledge but my fingers missed a hold and that was that.. I thought best leave it and come back with a fresh head.

with Dan_F
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Good
Adamwillclimb 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Jaime Mitchell 27/May/12 2nd O/S
ellmang 26/May/12 Lead
SteveHC 20/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 -
Paula Ryan ?/May/12 TR
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
RioVista23 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Solid climb with a trickier finish

nataliehaigh 12/Apr/12 Lead dog

Very challenging for me as I'm still very scared of leading. Got myself into two situations where I rested as I didn't know what to do, climbed up a little above the clip and then got scared and down climbed to the clip. After deliberation, I eventually pushed on. At the higher crux I encountered a blank wall (well blank for me) and eventually found a balancy position to clip from. Whilst clipping, I pulled the rope up but although I was high enough the drag in the rope and my tentative position meant that I had the rope loop 2cms below the clip for ages without being able to pull it higher without unseating myself. When I tried to pull it up and clip again I felt myself fall away. I was so scared as my worst fear is falling whilst clipping the next bolt! I'm ashamed to say that I grabbed the quick draw to stop me coming off and then clipped it. I was cross, but I would have been super scared if I'd actually fallen at this point. I took a rest after this and did the move again to prove to myself that I could do it. Overall pleased that I managed to push on through the scary above bolt bits of the climb even after taking a couple of small falls and getting scared. Lots to work on though!

mikehenesy 17/Mar/12 TR
DaveGarrity 17/Mar/12 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
Gambit 02/Mar/12 2nd
with Barney
Hidden 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
robajob 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jan/12 Lead β
markfromstoke 07/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Ian
ian d f 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
angie ??/2012 -
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
robblowen 22/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Chris, Jules
tcn_2002 16/Oct/11 Lead
pearson9596 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
samparsons 08/Oct/11 Lead
gidmord 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead dnf
timreynolds 18/Sep/11 Lead
mikehenesy 18/Sep/11 2nd
Vince 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Percy
chudders1 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Turner 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
louby 14/Aug/11 Lead
chris_B 14/Aug/11 Lead
benparratt 05/Aug/11 Lead dog
laurence orchard 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with George Newham
lewiz 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
TiffTiff 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Grace
Greg Pittam 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Stanbridge
airwalk123 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
willreddin 19/Jun/11 TR
Coops_13 29/May/11 Lead dog

fell after being too pumped at top

with Tom Sturgeon
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead
Dave Reeve 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Cousins
Matt250 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S
hotfeet 23/Apr/11 -
jgustafsson 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, did it twice.

with Jen
Danh89 21/Apr/11 Lead dog
with LukeyG
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead β
rd20 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Mark S, Jason
kleinej 27/Mar/11 TR
with Mark S, Robert
Mr Tickle 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tradguy 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell
bluesharper 13/Mar/11 Lead β

pre-placed quickdraws

with Roger
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tbs105 ??/2011 -
Ian Bell ??/2011 Lead O/S
Matt250 ??/2011 2nd O/S
clukins 20/Nov/10 Lead β
phildavies84 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Craig
Ed Babs 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Magnus
manwithacam 19/Sep/10 AltLd

dust rock but enjoyable climbing, sustained, thin and delicate. A bit stiff for the grade?

with Joris
Steve13 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 15/Sep/10 Lead
Jonathan Emett 15/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Braintax 11/Sep/10 Lead
jamespilgrim 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tania 04/Sep/10 Lead β
with mike
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
najki_2000 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

a few sharp holds at the bottom section, thin moves in the upper half, but quite a nice climb

with Chris Rose
Hidden 09/Aug/10 Lead RP
mikeconway 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Rob Laird 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
clipskipper 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
duncan 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
saz_b 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Thought it was a touch hard for 5+, glad it has been felt by everyone else! Nice route, fingery delicate finish.

with Dugald
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Jim Gaffney 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Cooper
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Andy
toby2000 ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead β
fildac 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Oli
Matt Smith 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Felt harder than a 5+ and apparently it is.

John Tanner 26/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 TR dnf
Don Jebus 20/May/10 Lead O/S
ahaynes 13/May/10 Lead dog

Thought the last 2 bolts deserve a higher grade of 6a or slightly more. Next time.....

with Eddie Goodey
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Popkids 24/Apr/10 TR O/S
with david
Bob 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with G. Macauley
3 Names 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
g1m147 23/Mar/10 Lead
with Bob
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Ian JL 27/Feb/10 Lead rpt
mark4344 30/Sep/09 2nd
with Matt Payne
Hidden 30/Sep/09 Lead dog
sophie291188 ?/Sep/09 TR
Rob Laird 30/Aug/09 Lead dog

Surprisingly hard top section.

with B Sosin
mr random 30/Aug/09 2nd dnf

Could not do the very last move, the guide gives it 5+ def 6a.

sara n 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Karl Blanchet
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dog
jon bradley 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good route, much harder at top

with Huw Howells
Hidden 03/Aug/09 Lead β
JimR 12/Jul/09 -
RFWilkie 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Monk 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Julesthe1st 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Stana
BicepAndrews 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
keithpeck 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 20/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Fran, Chris Bailey, Riaz Shaik
philhaigh 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JonHarvey 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
langar27 16/Jun/09 2nd
Chris Harding 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Stevenson
jl 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Brad, Penny
The Mountain Goat 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
dannyboy83 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
DeclanMurphy 04/May/09 Lead
with Melody
Whitto 02/May/09 Lead dog
andyfeds 12/Apr/09 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead RP
AndyM-LVB 03/Apr/09 Lead RP

Great climb, very technical, but very hard for the grade. We both thought 6a+ at least.

with Nicolas Tardy
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Beck Holland 15/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead dog
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
Thinker01 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
thompson1000 ??/2009 Lead
jominator ??/2009 Lead
Ceridwen ?/Dec/08 TR β
jacobjlloyd ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with John Scarrott
Tightsgirl ?/Oct/08 Lead
shoulders 28/Sep/08 Lead
with dai
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead dog
MarkRyder 26/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Rich
vertigo 26/Sep/08 Lead β
lemon 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Peter Brook
Joemanglerocks 22/Sep/08 Lead
with Ed Causton
FrostyWebb 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 05/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Marq 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Alan (Craggy)
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead β
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
djp1 09/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Greg
chalk bunny ?/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Chris Warmington
steve taylor 25/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
flatcap 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A delicate climb. I really didn't feel to confident about this one. I had to take my time at the top.

with Phil
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/08 Lead

agree with the description, and other comments about the top. bottom rock a wee bit cheesy.

Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
trev_f 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Alex M
existing debt 21/May/08 2nd
with Iain a
Julian Mowbray 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Richard
rd20 10/May/08 Lead dog

slight slip last section

with Roslyn
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
nevostevo 24/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with andy
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Marilyn
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd dnf
Hidden 13/Oct/07 TR
Hidden 29/Sep/07 -
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/07 -
tobydunford 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
Hidden 05/Aug/07 Lead dnf
Julie Carroll 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S

lovely climb, especially top section . . . . . beautiful!

with Suzie, Carole Dawson
harryt 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Really nice absorbing route. Why no stars? Disagree with the comments about the grade - lots easier than the other 6as that I dogged (Meg's got Leukaemia etc) this weekend.

with Patrick
Hidden ?/Jun/07 -
Steerpike 19/May/07 Lead β
with Bruce
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Luke Marsden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
Darragh ?/Apr/07 -
Hidden 24/Mar/07 TR dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead dnf
clipskipper 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Ok up to the split with Doughnuts, then gets thin and very fingery. Sandbag with the true grade around 6a - bit of a shock and scary in places.

with armchair climbing
Hidden ?/Oct/06 2nd
vet 19/Aug/06 TR RP

NH leads but takes 6b route to finish, by mistake.

with Nick
Wilbur 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Awful downgrade - it's at least F6a...

with George
jimjimmyjimjim 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Abi Chard ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ian
Sash.C ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Grant
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Peter Swift ??/2006 Lead dog
with paul
lukea 16/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with dan
michael burrows 05/Oct/05 Lead O/S
MikeC59 29/May/05 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Haglington ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
Hidden 03/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 03/Sep/01 Lead β

This is quite simply not F5+. Used to get F6a+ in the 2000 Dorset Rockfax

with dean howard
AlexD 10/Sep/00 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
uphillnow ??/1999 Lead

done several times

Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Paul_southgate68 ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with chris williams/jon ratcliffe
tapley ?/Jun/98 2nd
with Simon Tapley
Hidden 14/May/98 Lead O/S
nai 06/Jul/97 Lead
with Rob Smitton
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 14/Jul/96 Lead O/S

The original 6a+ grade seemed the right grade for this climb. The crux is defo 5c

with Steve Lucas
chris sm 17/Feb/96 Lead O/S
Kevster ??/1996 -
rob.grafton 29/May/95 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 17/Apr/95 Lead
Dringo ??/1995 -
Ben Thorne ??/1995 Lead O/S

Was 6a+ because the whole wall stood a lot more upright in the 90's. It's slumped and as such was downgraded. Crux is still 6a+ territory but the rest isn't any more.

with Rich Howard
Nigel Coe ??/1994 Lead

Approx date

MoWalker3 01/Jan/93 -
with Joe
Hidden ?/Jan/93 Lead O/S
Ezy Ryder ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
11 users have this on their wishlist
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 81
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set