Restricted Access
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
Rockfax Description
A seriously macho leader (or a psychopath) is required for this one. Start 5m left of the damp corner where Macho Wall and Rippled Slab meet. Head up the groove and hand traverse right onto a ledge. Take the groove up to the large loose flake, then climb the ferocious finger-crack to another 'booming' flake. Scary moves on slate fins attain the top via corniced vegetation. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
a bold route that goes up to a finger crack then some hard moves on slate fins than finish with less difficulty
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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry
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Wedlock Holiday
Grade: E5 6c ***
(California)