Rockfax Description
A scary route. A bold and nerve-wracking start leads to the first bolt at about 10m - it is only 5b though. Above, sustained slab climbing weaves between the now ample bolts. There is a harder but better-bolted Direct Start which is worth E3 6a. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Bold Slate routes.

markvaughan 20/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Got within 3m of first bolt before deciding that the consequences were too high for my confidence. Managed to down climb the slab successfully. Maybe another day.

asol 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Euge
andyinglis 06/Jun/17 Lead

Daft lob onto 1st bolt then a successful yoyo from the ground.

Hidden 06/Jun/17 Lead β
dan gibson 26/May/17 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 05/Apr/17 Lead O/S

What an amazing climb! The 1st two clips are quite run out, had to have a quick word to stop my disco leg,which wasn't helping!

with Vic, Matt
WilliamRupp 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S

no side runner

Marti999 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Debbie
kez1 20/Sep/16 TR O/S
with tom McCluskey , dino
philhilo 11/Sep/16 Lead β

Had a previous look at this on descent from the Direct. Excellent route and straightforward.

Flavio 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great start to an HVS-free, *** birthday weekend

Hidden 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
anguskille 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Duncan Spencer
kyaizawa 30/May/16 Lead RP

Having got to the top of Scarlet Runner Direct, decided to have a look at the moves on top rope first a few times before going for the lead. Never too hard, but pretty sustained especially on the toes!!

jsmcfarland 12/May/16 Lead O/S

The next logical step up from Gnat Attack and Massambula. Getting to the first bolt is a little scary, but afterwards it is just incredibly sustained. Finding places to rest toes was brilliant!

Butel 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
jezb1 24/Apr/16 Lead

Psyched. Had done direct a couple of days earlier. Start is intimidating but went smoothly.

spalice 15/Feb/16 2nd O/S
FreddieSmith 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
JamesWilliams 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S

mega nice thin climbing all the way pretty sustained

with Bren, Qureshi
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead dnf
UncleMephisto 16/Jul/15 TR O/S
with Andy Scott
Misha 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

The moves felt pretty straightforward after Short Stories, though still tricky in places. A lot of it is a bit insecure though as the holds are often a bit slopey. A couple of loose flakes as well, which need handling with care - including one which I carefully used to get to the first bolt. Memorable!

with Nic
Hidden 12/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead
Ewan Russell 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Brad
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 26/May/15 Lead O/S

good route. the rockfax line goes left at the top, which would take you in to a load of moss with no lower-off and no possibility of topping out.

with Roisin
jacob shieldhouse hadley 21/May/15 Lead O/S

good soft, rock over feels insecure but it is not. done in bouldering sheas :p

with tom
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Bold and scary, crux is below the first bolt, sustained slab climbing all the way.

Gloria 24/Aug/14 2nd
shed_hed 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice route. Bit of a bold start and head game comitting to moves to get to the first and second bolt. Crux is well protected and went quickly then run out again at the top but eases as you go higher.

BenRyle 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
Dan724 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Done in semi-darkness. Steady enough but in the failing light the holds tended to blend into one, making it easy to climb into a dead-end.

richiebongo 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Inbetween rain showers with gwen. A bit soft for the grade even though it's fairly harrowing to the first bolt. Belayed Topher on it a week before but it was pretty dark so am claiming the onsight anyway.

Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Tricky in fading light, ticking holds as I passed them so I could see where to put my feet! First section to bolt was easier than I thought, thankfully.

air 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lloyd
wolf.leeb 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Alexis
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
morganator 23/Sep/12 Lead
soph 23/Sep/12 2nd
james.slater 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S

E4 just for the first bolt, its not nice being that high! Sustained climbing after but reasonably safe i guess!

Ed morris 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with stefan
Tom Livingstone 23/Jan/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
willoates 22/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Getting very dark from the half way point, chalking up holds in order to see them from above. a bit wet too.

with Steve
smallerrich 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sam
al123 04/Sep/10 TR dog
with matt
rustaldo 04/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Al
Mike Goldthorp 15/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Really nice continuous slate climbing, nothing too taxing and just run-out enough to give it E4, although low in the grade.

with Jono
stevethomas 18/Jun/10 Lead
with Pete
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 04/May/10 Lead O/S

cool, weird not like normal slate as its slopey...broke hand hold offand it was a bit wet at the top. Soft.

ollieben 04/May/10 2nd dog
with duncan cambell
harvie 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Christian Beck ?/May/09 Lead O/S

Quality moves, a great route

climbingpixie 11/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Andy Hobson
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead RP
Orlov ??/2009 Lead
with dave
Franco Cookson ??/2009 Lead O/S
Lloyders ??/2009 Lead O/S
Suzie Wilson ?/Aug/08 2nd
with jack
Franco Cookson OLD 25/May/08 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
RossG ??/2008 -
Alex Mason 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S

thin and sustained, cool route. 6a.

climbingrev 27/Aug/07 TR dog

Fell twice on this, but started again below fall-point. Silly falls, neither at crux points.Enjoyed the balancey, delicate nature of this though - well above my normal grade at this time.

Will Hunt 05/Aug/07 Lead dnf
with Nick Bird
Will Hunt 05/Aug/07 2nd RP
with Nick Bird
ksjs 26/May/07 Lead O/S

hard to believe this is E4 (soft if it is). anyway, fun with especially good climbing in the upper half.

Toby Dunn 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
RossG123 ??/2007 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 27/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dringo ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S

Quite soft for the grade, but bold up to the first bolt.

paul m hadley ?/Oct/03 -
Gus 25/May/03 Lead O/S
Dave Bond ??/2003 Lead β
with Simon Wren
Mark Riley ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/01 Lead O/S
BenTiffin ?/May/01 Lead

Clipper the bolt on the direct start

with Andy Bissell
Hidden ??/2001 Lead rpt
migs493 09/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
WB ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/May/99 2nd
with mark kendrick
petekeron ??/1999 2nd O/S
with Alex Binks
cragspud ?/Dec/98 TR O/S
stuart100 21/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Hidden 25/May/97 Lead O/S
D Tempest 24/May/97 Lead O/S
with Rick
Steve Crowe 16/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with KM
AB1965 03/Apr/96 Lead
craig h 26/Feb/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
craig h 25/Feb/96 TR O/S
with Shunted
Hidden 08/Oct/95 Lead O/S
Gambit 06/Aug/95 Lead O/S

Drove down after a morning at work and got straight on it.

with Rob, Barney
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead rpt
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??/1995 Lead O/S

coke can ring pulls for bolts back in day made this feel scary!

pete johnson 15/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Andy Robinson
Hidden 30/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/94 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 07/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/94 TR O/S
Dave Musgrove 02/Apr/94 Lead β

1st runner clipped!

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Mar/94 Lead
with mark kendrick
tlr 23/Oct/93 Lead
with Adrian
Hidden 01/May/93 2nd
uphillnow 30/Apr/93 2nd

with either charlie french or mark gray

Stoney Boy 17/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks
leadmat ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Chris Hingston
adi bryant ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Ollie, Tim
tlr 03/Aug/92 Lead
with Nick
goi.ashmore 26/Jun/92 Lead O/S

Again after a manic drive up from Cardiff, on a very warm evening...

with Simon Coles, Rich Lawrence
Hidden 23/May/92 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
channinga ??/1992 -
mattnuttall 16/Jul/91 Lead O/S

First OS E4, soft touch?

with Matthieu Mounier
whispering nic 10/May/91 Lead
with Ali W
PaulHermes ??/1991 -
FATBOYFAT ??/1991 Lead O/S

my first E4

Hidden ??/1991 Lead β
Hidden 03/Nov/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/90 TR O/S
mark-abz 11/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Pete T
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with Bill Williamson
Hidden 06/May/90 TR
Paul Figg ?/Apr/90 TR
chrisdavies ??/1990 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1990 2nd
steveboote ??/1990 Lead

With Heather and Rosie

Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Hidden ??/1990 -
steve taylor ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S

First E4 - but it isn't really

with stumpy
steve taylor ?/Jul/89 Lead
with Steve Williams
mik1miller ??/1989 Lead O/S
with peter hadfield
wynaptomos ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/88 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1988 AltLd
with Phil Ralph
neilh 25/Jul/87 2nd
with mark griffiths
Mike Owen 09/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Neil McA 03/May/87 2nd O/S
with Howard Lancashire, Andy Perkins
sadams 14/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
Hidden 08/Mar/87 TR
Enty ??/1987 Lead
with A Gudgeon
DDDD ??/1987 -
Hidden 01/Jul/85 Lead
Melok ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
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