28m.

Rockfax Description
An impressive line up the steep wall to the left of the dominating arete. Start just to the right of the wide crack. Climb up and rightwards into the centre of the wall, then climb this to a hard finish. Finishing on the right is 7b. The lower-off is situated on the ledge above the route. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 11/May/1989

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
ericinbristol 23 May Show βeta
βeta: Worked the RH finish - no particularly hard moves but lots of them. Spectacular and a bit intimidating. Some unpleasantly spaced bolting near the top.
 
Show beta
βeta: Worked the RH finish - no particularly hard moves but lots of them. Spectacular and a bit intimidating. Some unpleasantly spaced bolting near the top.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the right arete at the top gives grit like moves to finish, whilst looking fondly back at the receding last bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the right arete at the top gives grit like moves to finish, whilst looking fondly back at the receding last bolt.
marky 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route but a bouldery and reachy finish.More like 7b+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route but a bouldery and reachy finish.More like 7b+.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
S.Kew 2 Jun Lead dog Clean to that nails crux.
Clean to that nails crux.
julesmckim 26 May Lead dog Two more goes. Getting really close - on the roght hand version. Just messed up the foot sequence on the crux. Pretty windy on the upper delicate arete moves.
with Finn
Two more goes. Getting really close - on the roght hand version. Just messed up the foot sequence on the crux. Pretty windy on the upper delicate arete moves.
with Finn
ericinbristol 23 May TR dog Worked the RH finish - no particularly hard moves but lots of them. Spectacular and a bit intimidating. Some unpleasantly spaced bolting near the top.
with Tim H
Worked the RH finish - no particularly hard moves but lots of them. Spectacular and a bit intimidating. Some unpleasantly spaced bolting near the top.
with Tim H
Von T 7 Apr Lead dog Got put in my place on this one. Lots of hidden pockets and spicy bolting makes it a bit scary. Couldn’t figure out the last move, had to pull on the draw.
Got put in my place on this one. Lots of hidden pockets and spicy bolting makes it a bit scary. Couldn’t figure out the last move, had to pull on the draw.
GraMc 6 Apr Lead dog Steady at the grade to final bolt and then fucking nails!
Steady at the grade to final bolt and then fucking nails!
Richard Kendrick 24 Feb Lead RP Went right for the 7b tick. Much better climbing then going direct
with Arlo
Went right for the 7b tick. Much better climbing then going direct
with Arlo
julesmckim 24 Feb Lead dog Wow! Magnificient climbing. Almost got the flash...on the 7b arête version with draws in but fluffed the second crux due not being observant enough. Such a brilliantly positioned climb - firstly spread-eagled on a seemingly blank wall, then moving into the exposed arête finish. Involved and delicate final section as opposed to the near-impossible (so I've heard) finish on the direct. Next time...
with Rado
Wow! Magnificient climbing. Almost got the flash...on the 7b arête version with draws in but fluffed the second crux due not being observant enough. Such a brilliantly positioned climb - firstly spread-eagled on a seemingly blank wall, then moving into the exposed arête finish. Involved and delicate final section as opposed to the near-impossible (so I've heard) finish on the direct. Next time...
with Rado
Michael Bortoluzzi 23 Feb Lead dog RH finish. No idea how you'd go straight up. The groove on the left also looked like an option but just as much off route as going right. What do I know
RH finish. No idea how you'd go straight up. The groove on the left also looked like an option but just as much off route as going right. What do I know
Hidden 28 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
philhaigh 16 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
with mregueira, Aarron Schofield, Juanjo Castill?n, Steve Hau, Ed Babs
with mregueira, Aarron Schofield, Juanjo Castill?n, Steve Hau, Ed Babs
Ed Babs 16 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Stayed on the face at the top this time. Used a high side pull left of the bolt line which made it feel not too bad. 16 Jan 2013 - Birthday bonus - via the arête with Dr Steve.
Stayed on the face at the top this time. Used a high side pull left of the bolt line which made it feel not too bad. 16 Jan 2013 - Birthday bonus - via the arête with Dr Steve.
M_Robinson 5 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Far too hot
with Ian Robinson
Far too hot
with Ian Robinson
tonevert 13 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
with Paloma
with Paloma
samparsons 10 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 3.6.18 first go, bolt to bolt because of the heat. 2nd go ticked. I took the right arete at the top as this seems to be the only possible way if you are under 6ft7
3.6.18 first go, bolt to bolt because of the heat. 2nd go ticked. I took the right arete at the top as this seems to be the only possible way if you are under 6ft7
marcduhig 19 May, 2018 Lead dog All the way to top move then couldn’t find a way through.
with Duncan, chancer
All the way to top move then couldn’t find a way through.
with Duncan, chancer
Q.Estelles 25 Feb, 2018 Lead dog Need beta for the last section, had to pull on a quickdraw
Need beta for the last section, had to pull on a quickdraw
Trisha Murphy 24 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
with Vikkie
with Vikkie
Hidden 23 May, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 21 May, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Apr, 2017 TR
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
JackMac 4 Dec, 2016 Lead RP Arete finish (7b). Beautiful climbing on pockets. An awesome route that I've wanted to do for years!
with Nikki_C
Arete finish (7b). Beautiful climbing on pockets. An awesome route that I've wanted to do for years!
with Nikki_C
JackMac 27 Nov, 2016 Lead dog
with Nikki_C
with Nikki_C
afrosam 31 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
afrosam 15 May, 2016 Lead dog
with TomJ
with TomJ
JackMac 16 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf Horrible start on sketchy rock. Took a few falls and cracked my shin on one of the ledges. Perhaps one to work on top rope. I'm inspired by the line though.
Horrible start on sketchy rock. Took a few falls and cracked my shin on one of the ledges. Perhaps one to work on top rope. I'm inspired by the line though.
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
ThomasB ?Jul, 2015 Lead RP
philhaigh 30 Jun, 2015 2nd dog The direct finish is a bit hard!
The direct finish is a bit hard!
Kris suriyo 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Hard finish!
Hard finish!
dominic lee 15 Mar, 2015 Lead RP 2nd go opting for the arête finish after dropping the brutal 7b+ option first time. Great climbing.
with andy elliot
2nd go opting for the arête finish after dropping the brutal 7b+ option first time. Great climbing.
with andy elliot
nacnud 9 Aug, 2014 Lead
with Ed Ratcliffe
with Ed Ratcliffe
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Baking hot. Lower ledges were horrible very dusty. Bolts are very hard to spot.
Baking hot. Lower ledges were horrible very dusty. Bolts are very hard to spot.
lewiz 20 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Broken toe?
Broken toe?
jonleighton 13 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Great climbing, managed to onsight up to the final crux but then I had no chance - that final crux seems ridiculous for 7b+ but maybe I just need some beta.
Great climbing, managed to onsight up to the final crux but then I had no chance - that final crux seems ridiculous for 7b+ but maybe I just need some beta.
Ian Bell 31 Aug, 2013 TR dog A bit of aiding involved! excellent route but very hard. Easy to set up TR from the quarry above so maybe one to keep trying.
with Andrea
A bit of aiding involved! excellent route but very hard. Easy to set up TR from the quarry above so maybe one to keep trying.
with Andrea
david potts 25 May, 2013 Lead RP great route.
with Nat
great route.
with Nat
Hidden 15 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 24 Apr, 2013 Lead dog absolutely blind climbing, really hard to onsight...and the finishing move is just disgusting, couldn't work it out at all had to yank on the clip
with ben harding
absolutely blind climbing, really hard to onsight...and the finishing move is just disgusting, couldn't work it out at all had to yank on the clip
with ben harding
brices 30 Mar, 2013 Lead dog tried to onsight, nice bt shame about the dirty start
tried to onsight, nice bt shame about the dirty start
Tommyads ??, 2013 - First 7b+ went Direct. Superb climbing.
First 7b+ went Direct. Superb climbing.
dan gibson 24 Oct, 2012 Lead RP Did the direct finish. I think this makes it hard 7b+/7c. Great finishing sequence.
Did the direct finish. I think this makes it hard 7b+/7c. Great finishing sequence.
Hidden 6 Oct, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
natalietanzer 21 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
with graham
with graham
JHM 24 May, 2012 Lead β first 7b+ flash in UK. Went right onto arete at the top.
first 7b+ flash in UK. Went right onto arete at the top.
natalietanzer 13 May, 2012 Lead dog
with Mike and Adrian
with Mike and Adrian
Toby Dunn 15 Jan, 2012 Lead RP a few nice moves, up an impressive wall; but they barely make up for the sections of choss and unpleasant holds.
a few nice moves, up an impressive wall; but they barely make up for the sections of choss and unpleasant holds.
Richard Horn 29 Oct, 2011 Lead RP
tobydunford 1 May, 2011 TR dog
with Phil Belcher
with Phil Belcher
Hawkscry ??, 2011 -
lukehunt ??, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead dog
Jane Weir 23 May, 2010 Lead Beautiful route :-)
with Rich Dagnan
Beautiful route :-)
with Rich Dagnan
natalietanzer 11 Apr, 2010 TR dog
Tom Heslam ??, 2010 Lead RP
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 TR dnf
Martin Krasnansky 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Great line! Direct finish.
Great line! Direct finish.
hippo99 25 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
trev_f 23 Apr, 2009 TR dog
with Jon
with Jon
sam_cox 1 Mar, 2009 2nd
feilx 6 Dec, 2008 Lead RP
with Rich Dagner
with Rich Dagner
La Mont ??, 2008 -
bigie bob 21 Feb, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Steve Crowe 16 Mar, 1998 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
22 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set