Rockfax Description
An impressive line up the steep wall to the left of the dominating arete. Start just to the right of the wide crack. Climb up and rightwards into the centre of the wall, then climb this to a hard finish. Finishing on the right is 7b. The lower-off is situated on the ledge above the route. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 11/May/1989

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

Trisha Murphy 24/Jul Lead dog
with Vikkie
Linc 23/May Lead RP

Arete finish 7b. Also tried left of the crux on a RP, another good 7b variation

with Kay
Linc 21/May Lead dog
with Kay
Hidden 01/Apr TR
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
JackMac 04/Dec/16 Lead RP

Arete finish (7b). Beautiful climbing on pockets. An awesome route that I've wanted to do for years!

with Nikki_C
JackMac 27/Nov/16 Lead dog
with Nikki_C
afrosam 31/Oct/16 Lead dog
afrosam 15/May/16 Lead dog
with TomJ
JackMac 16/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Horrible start on sketchy rock. Took a few falls and cracked my shin on one of the ledges. Perhaps one to work on top rope. I'm inspired by the line though.

Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Linc 17/Jul/15 Lead dog
with louis
ThomasB ?/Jul/15 Lead RP
philhaigh 30/Jun/15 2nd dog

The direct finish is a bit hard!

Kris suriyo 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Hard finish!

dominic lee 15/Mar/15 Lead RP

2nd go opting for the arête finish after dropping the brutal 7b+ option first time. Great climbing.

with andy elliot
nacnud 09/Aug/14 Lead
with Ed Ratcliffe
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Baking hot. Lower ledges were horrible very dusty. Bolts are very hard to spot.

with Steph
lewiz 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Broken toe?

jonleighton 13/Jul/14 Lead dog

Great climbing, managed to onsight up to the final crux but then I had no chance - that final crux seems ridiculous for 7b+ but maybe I just need some beta.

Ian Bell 31/Aug/13 TR dog

A bit of aiding involved! excellent route but very hard. Easy to set up TR from the quarry above so maybe one to keep trying.

with Andrea
david potts 25/May/13 Lead RP

great route.

with Nat
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 24/Apr/13 Lead dog

absolutely blind climbing, really hard to onsight...and the finishing move is just disgusting, couldn't work it out at all had to yank on the clip

with ben harding
brices 30/Mar/13 Lead dog

tried to onsight, nice bt shame about the dirty start

Ed Babs 16/Jan/13 Lead RP

Birthday bonus - via the arête.

with Dr Steve
Tommyads ??/2013 -

First 7b+ went Direct. Superb climbing.

dan gibson 24/Oct/12 Lead RP

Did the direct finish. I think this makes it hard 7b+/7c. Great finishing sequence.

Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead RP
Linc 11/Aug/12 Lead dog
natalietanzer 21/Jul/12 Lead RP
with graham
Jeronimo 24/May/12 Lead β

first 7b+ flash in UK. Went right onto arete at the top.

natalietanzer 13/May/12 Lead dog
with Mike and Adrian
Toby Dunn 15/Jan/12 Lead RP

a few nice moves, up an impressive wall; but they barely make up for the sections of choss and unpleasant holds.

Richard Horn 29/Oct/11 Lead RP
tobydunford 01/May/11 TR dog
with Phil Belcher
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
lukehunt ??/2011 Lead dnf
Jane Weir 23/May/10 Lead

Beautiful route :-)

with Rich Dagnan
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 TR dog
Hidden 27/Sep/09 TR dnf
Martin Krasnansky 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great line! Direct finish.

hippo99 25/Jul/09 Lead RP
trev_f 23/Apr/09 TR dog
with Jon
sam_cox 01/Mar/09 2nd
feilx 06/Dec/08 Lead RP
with Rich Dagner
La Mont ??/2008 -
bigie bob 21/Feb/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
Steve Crowe 16/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with KM
10 users have this on their wishlist
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set