UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

35m.

Rockfax Description
The wide crack and chimney system. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Deep gash at open left-facing corner. Seems to be two options - either deep inside the groove or up the left-hand side on the outside. Great position - slightly loose inside - and protection inside the groove is sparse.

Ticklists

CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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Route of Interest
Temporary Lifestyle

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cave Hole)

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