28m.

Rockfax Description
A much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, and then pursue a line leftwards to a long groove just right of the arete. Follow this to an overhang and finish via some difficult final moves. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 06/May/1995

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Red Spot Portland 2016, Portland, Gwenland, Portland Sendathon

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Alun 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Following on from tbertenshaw's comment, the line hasn't changed much in the new guide either, and the bolts are still to the right of the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Following on from tbertenshaw's comment, the line hasn't changed much in the new guide either, and the bolts are still to the right of the overhang.
Tim Broughtonshaw 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Be careful of the topo. Near the top follow the obvious line of bolts up and slightly right of the small overhang. The topo in the old guide implies climbing over the left hand side of the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. Be careful of the topo. Near the top follow the obvious line of bolts up and slightly right of the small overhang. The topo in the old guide implies climbing over the left hand side of the overhang.
Jus 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. Did it in the dark a few summers ago. Was still bloody hot, so we went for a swim.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route. Did it in the dark a few summers ago. Was still bloody hot, so we went for a swim.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, but a fall while clipping the 2nd bolt would lead to a ground crunch and the last move is way harder if you're short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route, but a fall while clipping the 2nd bolt would lead to a ground crunch and the last move is way harder if you're short.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 2 Sep Lead O/S
lbachini 13 Jul 2nd
Hidden 13 Jul Lead O/S
Whitey Pinkrope 6 Jul TR dog
with Hicksy's
with Hicksy's
Tomas P 17 Jun Lead O/S
with Summer, Aelita
with Summer, Aelita
KDhruev 6 Jun Lead O/S
David Staples 6 Jun Lead rpt
with KDhruev
with KDhruev
Danwclark 25 May - top rope. not clean
top rope. not clean
Hidden 22 May Lead O/S
Whitey Pinkrope 18 May TR dog
with Hicksy's
with Hicksy's
David Staples 14 May Lead rpt
Giolooly 12 May Lead dnf
Emmett Arthur 5 May 2nd
tjwalker 5 May Lead β
Phil Davidson 29 Apr Lead O/S
with Millsy
with Millsy
mikechia 20 Apr Lead dog
billabonggaz 11 Apr - 28m
28m
ben1234 11 Apr TR rpt
with Gaz Fry
with Gaz Fry
will_of_fortune 7 Apr Lead O/S
with Abi
with Abi
DanWeiss 7 Apr Lead
Lukechandler 6 Apr Lead O/S
Luke_92 1 Apr Lead RP Pumped out at the top, dithering. Knackered on the second go, but scraped through. Great climbing.
with Jenn
Pumped out at the top, dithering. Knackered on the second go, but scraped through. Great climbing.
with Jenn
Stephen Maginn 31 Mar Lead dog Fell at the bulge.
Fell at the bulge.
Paddy Bos Coe 30 Mar Lead rpt Class climbing. Lovely traverse at the beginning. Balancy crux pulling on small delicate shell. Pumpy finish. Top notch
Class climbing. Lovely traverse at the beginning. Balancy crux pulling on small delicate shell. Pumpy finish. Top notch
Hidden 24 Mar Lead O/S
Ian Bell 23 Mar Lead rpt
ARiches 24 Feb TR
Hidden ?? -
ben1234 11 Dec, 2018 2nd β
derryclimbs 11 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S Warmed up on this not expecting to onsight it, so surprised myself. Definitely my style - juggy, steep with some distint cruxes, and even more distinct rests before them!
with ben1234
Warmed up on this not expecting to onsight it, so surprised myself. Definitely my style - juggy, steep with some distint cruxes, and even more distinct rests before them!
with ben1234
Hidden 1 Nov, 2018 Lead
ben1234 29 Sep, 2018 TR O/S
Paul Hicks 29 Sep, 2018 TR O/S lost the plot on the start. came down & started again. Then TR clean. Fantastic route.
with Ben Maskrey
lost the plot on the start. came down & started again. Then TR clean. Fantastic route.
with Ben Maskrey
Sam Head 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 25 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
Rockmonkey1977 20 May, 2018 Lead β Following a quality onsight by Larry I had the luxury of pre-placed qd’s. A nice route, technical requiring lots of weight on the feet...
Following a quality onsight by Larry I had the luxury of pre-placed qd’s. A nice route, technical requiring lots of weight on the feet...
marcduhig 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with chancer, Duncan
with chancer, Duncan
chancer 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Marc Duhig
with Marc Duhig
Dexter JW 29 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
dbrooks 29 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dexter
with Dexter
David Dickinson 28 Apr, 2018 2nd
with Elodie
with Elodie
Elodie 28 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Misha 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Tricky to get off the ground and the first bolt is pointlessly low. Fairly easy after that, then a steady section on funky crusty rock, followed by a traddy finish up a crack. Draws in.
Tricky to get off the ground and the first bolt is pointlessly low. Fairly easy after that, then a steady section on funky crusty rock, followed by a traddy finish up a crack. Draws in.
Richard Kendrick 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
richfitz 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with George
with George
Kipper-Phil Smith 19 Apr, 2018 Lead
with Denis
with Denis
julesmckim 23 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Wasn't sure of the line but eventually follow the bolts and holds. It stays right of the groove and right of the roof
with Rob Smart, Antonina Lach
Wasn't sure of the line but eventually follow the bolts and holds. It stays right of the groove and right of the roof
with Rob Smart, Antonina Lach
afterthesend 7 Jan, 2018 Lead β
samparsons 7 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S A great line!
A great line!
emmafizzle 7 Jan, 2018 Lead dnf This was a day of not finishing climbs.
This was a day of not finishing climbs.
adamsriches 4 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
cdpuk 15 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Rockfax line is misleading. There are no bolts that go through the roof. Follow the line to the right of the roof.
Rockfax line is misleading. There are no bolts that go through the roof. Follow the line to the right of the roof.
nacnud 12 Aug, 2017 Lead
Rokmunky 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with nacnud
with nacnud
johnhan310 6 Aug, 2017 Lead β
with Ben Fordesman
with Ben Fordesman
David Dickinson 6 Aug, 2017 Lead β An absolute classic! Three distinct sections, exciting run in with a puke spitting seagull
An absolute classic! Three distinct sections, exciting run in with a puke spitting seagull
dryvita 6 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with David Dickinson
with David Dickinson
tonevert 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Richard Thomas
with Richard Thomas
woohano89 ?Aug, 2017 Lead
Ian Bell 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Excellent route. Really enjoyed exposure on the muggy traverse at the start.
Excellent route. Really enjoyed exposure on the muggy traverse at the start.
rachelvlc 2 Jun, 2017 Lead
littleluke 2 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Matti Puckridge 2 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
kcichy 2 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 1 Apr, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 19 Mar, 2017 Lead
Paul Eckton 11 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 11 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Bettymolly 27 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
tsyrett 6 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
Kayface42 22 Oct, 2016 2nd β
with Linc
with Linc
Hidden 16 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
dohart 11 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Rope drag hell
with Marcus
Rope drag hell
with Marcus
Hidden 8 Sep, 2016 2nd dog
hervenuttall ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
Lakesben 27 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Great route, possibly deserving of a 3rd star. Easy for the grade IF you're feeling confident.
with Mark, The Plough
Great route, possibly deserving of a 3rd star. Easy for the grade IF you're feeling confident.
with Mark, The Plough
Pete Scott 25 May, 2016 Lead O/S
TomJ 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S Quite bold at times - really enjoyed it
with afrosam
Quite bold at times - really enjoyed it
with afrosam
Hidden 15 May, 2016 -
Hidden 14 May, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 14 May, 2016 Lead β
Ranaz 13 May, 2016 Lead O/S
L.miura 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Julie Carroll
with Julie Carroll
Hidden 23 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Steph Roberts 17 Apr, 2016 TR β
with Chris Weedon
with Chris Weedon
JackMac 25 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with Hayley, Nathan, jlgoddard, lawsy_boy1
with Hayley, Nathan, jlgoddard, lawsy_boy1
jlgoddard 25 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with JackMac
with JackMac
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
Julie Carroll 13 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with Richard, Tristan Graham
with Richard, Tristan Graham
Tomar 5 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with JackMac
with JackMac
ihugrocks ??, 2016 -
ian d f 20 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S Moved on to Vladimir at top, unintentionally
with Liz F
Moved on to Vladimir at top, unintentionally
with Liz F
JoeE 19 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome starting traverse and finish moves
with Marc Griffiths
Awesome starting traverse and finish moves
with Marc Griffiths
Hidden 29 Aug, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 Lead β
Dizz 9 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Steve thorpe
with Steve thorpe
Hidden 25 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
David Staples 25 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
Shamina 14 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
philhaigh 14 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
with Shamina
with Shamina
martin one 19 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
with Markus
with Markus
JackMac 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Nice climb on good holds, just a bit scary traversing at the start. Soft for the grade IMO.
with Gavin Alner, Adam Kent
Nice climb on good holds, just a bit scary traversing at the start. Soft for the grade IMO.
with Gavin Alner, Adam Kent
Hidden 24 Jan, 2015 TR rpt
Carnie Lisa ??, 2015 2nd β
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
Hidden 29 Dec, 2014 2nd rpt
louby 30 Nov, 2014 Lead dnf long way to the lower-off, wimp
with chris_B
long way to the lower-off, wimp
with chris_B
Gem Minihan 23 Aug, 2014 TR O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
George Killaspy 20 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Very bold, sequence-y final moves - definitely type 2 fun!
with Milo, Dale
Very bold, sequence-y final moves - definitely type 2 fun!
with Milo, Dale
Hidden 18 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
BenL 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
with Angus Webb
Hidden 23 Nov, 2013 Lead rpt
Hidden 8 Sep, 2013 Lead rpt
goddamm7 30 Aug, 2013 TR β This was climb of the weekend for me but it would get a 6C 3 star in my opinion the final 3rd gets very thin! excellent climbing on good rock!!
with batson
This was climb of the weekend for me but it would get a 6C 3 star in my opinion the final 3rd gets very thin! excellent climbing on good rock!!
with batson
Hidden 30 Aug, 2013 Lead
Ian Ash 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Finished with chronicles of vladimir. Rockfax topo is not very good! I thought the top moves were hard for 6b+!
Finished with chronicles of vladimir. Rockfax topo is not very good! I thought the top moves were hard for 6b+!
mattkemp70 ?Apr, 2013 2nd With 6c finish
with Westy
With 6c finish
with Westy
AndyMcCoy 31 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
with Bill
with Bill
trev_f 30 Mar, 2013 Lead β
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
tonevert 29 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Jobbo 27 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller, Leon. D
with Tim Miller, Leon. D
Rupey 14 Oct, 2012 TR dog
with Barry
with Barry
Hidden 27 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf
philhaigh 15 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung, Rob Kennard
with Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung, Rob Kennard
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Daniel 20 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Jasmina Saric
with Jasmina Saric
rustaldo 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S tricky climbing, beware HUEG seagulls. rock is hard to read and snappy in the middle section, which is slightly runout. the top is good.
with Mo, jpksalmon
tricky climbing, beware HUEG seagulls. rock is hard to read and snappy in the middle section, which is slightly runout. the top is good.
with Mo, jpksalmon
Ali.B 25 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Apr, 2012 Lead β
AlexD 29 Mar, 2012 Lead
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 Lead β
Dandan 10 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
with Pete Saunders
with Pete Saunders
Alex More 24 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with sam ferguson
with sam ferguson
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 27 Sep, 2011 Lead Tricky crux section halfway up which is tricky to onsight. Otherwise an easy 6b+ as there are no hard moves and its not pumpy.
with odox
Tricky crux section halfway up which is tricky to onsight. Otherwise an easy 6b+ as there are no hard moves and its not pumpy.
with odox
odox 27 Sep, 2011 2nd
dswansonlow 26 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Kopinski 31 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
Kopinski 13 Jul, 2011 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S nice, but not as good as stublock or burning skies. hard to read lower down.
with claudio
nice, but not as good as stublock or burning skies. hard to read lower down.
with claudio
Kopinski 25 May, 2011 Lead dog
Thinker01 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S No way this is 6b+! Definitely one to try if you want an easy 6b+ tick.
with Kev Stott
No way this is 6b+! Definitely one to try if you want an easy 6b+ tick.
with Kev Stott
Arcarn 10 Apr, 2011 Lead β
mlg678 26 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 24 Mar, 2011 Lead
wi11 17 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
matthewjames 13 Mar, 2011 Lead dog
with Katie Keeley
with Katie Keeley
Luke Dawson 12 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
robajob 2 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 30 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jan, 2011 Lead RP
feilx 9 Jan, 2011 Lead rpt
with Charlie
with Charlie
AlexD 9 Jan, 2011 2nd
with feilx
with feilx
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
clipskipper 10 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Very good route - lots of variety and a good finish
with Dave (Robins?)
Very good route - lots of variety and a good finish
with Dave (Robins?)
sonic46 10 Oct, 2010 2nd
with Dave and Lee, Mattzx6r
with Dave and Lee, Mattzx6r
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 18 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Tristan Graham
with Tristan Graham
3 Names 3 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
will9911 ?Jun, 2010 -
with Fabian
with Fabian
Hidden 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 21 Apr, 2010 Lead RP
with Steve H
with Steve H
natalietanzer 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Ed
with Ed
vertigo 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Harry Boden
with Harry Boden
Owen W-G 4 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf Make sure you take the bolts right of the groove not on the left closer to the arete. Got pumped and scared on crux, couldn't commit or downclimb, nervous about ledges below, so squealed and jumped off. Only harmed ego but don't think 10 mins of overgrippng did dodgy elbow any favours. Most miserable achievement-free day out climbing in memory.
with David Coley
Make sure you take the bolts right of the groove not on the left closer to the arete. Got pumped and scared on crux, couldn't commit or downclimb, nervous about ledges below, so squealed and jumped off. Only harmed ego but don't think 10 mins of overgrippng did dodgy elbow any favours. Most miserable achievement-free day out climbing in memory.
with David Coley
London Luke ?Apr, 2010 Lead
SuseH 7 Mar, 2010 TR O/S
with IainAM
with IainAM
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Brucifer 13 Sep, 2009 2nd
Ed Babs 15 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
dan gibson 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
Phil79 14 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf Dogged my way up this and could not do the top moves. Turns out we had strayed onto the adjacent route a full grade harder. (Chronicles of Vladimir - thanks RockFax!) We thought it was a bit stiff at 6b+.
Dogged my way up this and could not do the top moves. Turns out we had strayed onto the adjacent route a full grade harder. (Chronicles of Vladimir - thanks RockFax!) We thought it was a bit stiff at 6b+.
Hidden 11 May, 2009 TR O/S
tobydunford 22 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 21 Mar, 2009 TR O/S
sam_cox 1 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
breed 8 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??, 2009 Lead
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 30 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S well exciting. serious rope drag by the top moves. (which were brilliant anyway) bottom a little cheesy.
with josh
well exciting. serious rope drag by the top moves. (which were brilliant anyway) bottom a little cheesy.
with josh
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 Lead β
ThomasB ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
Kevster ??, 2008 -
La Mont ??, 2008 -
Richard Horn 21 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
brian watson 26 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Lee Lander
with Lee Lander
bigie bob 3 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
jake-jones ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
feilx 6 Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
with Rich Dagner
Hidden 18 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Oct, 2006 Lead dnf
Hidden ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Billg 19 Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
with Paul Bowen
with Paul Bowen
Hidden ?Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
feeko ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Derek Furze ??, 2005 Lead
just one more 30 May, 2003 Lead
with tim b
with tim b
Hidden 22 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
John Southworth 15 Feb, 2003 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
with Jason Parker
just one more 21 Apr, 2002 Lead
with Svenn G
with Svenn G
Jus ??, 2002 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2000 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden ?Dec, 1998 Lead O/S
bruce ??, 1998 -
with Richard Bossons
with Richard Bossons
21 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set