Rockfax Description
A much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, and then pursue a line leftwards to a long groove just right of the arete. Follow this to an overhang and finish via some difficult final moves. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 06/May/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Red Spot Portland 2016, Portland.

nacnud 12/Aug Lead
Rokmunky 12/Aug Lead O/S
with Duncan
johnhan310 06/Aug Lead β
with Ben Fordesman
David Dickinson 06/Aug Lead β

An absolute classic! Three distinct sections, exciting run in with a puke spitting seagull

dryvita 06/Aug Lead O/S
with David Dickinson
tonevert 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Richard Thomas
Ian Bell 03/Jun Lead O/S

Excellent route. Really enjoyed exposure on the muggy traverse at the start.

rachelvlc 02/Jun Lead
with Luke
littleluke 02/Jun Lead O/S
Matti Puckridge 02/Jun Lead O/S
kcichy 02/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar Lead
Kevster 11/Mar Lead rpt
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Bettymolly 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S
tsyrett 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Linc 22/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
Kayface42 22/Oct/16 2nd β
with Si
Macca_7 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Nice line and good mix of styles to warm up on. I think I was on the right line the guide is a little confusing.

with Steve Pack
dohart 11/Sep/16 Lead dog

Rope drag hell

with Marcus
Hidden 08/Sep/16 2nd dog
hervenuttall ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
Lakesben 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route, possibly deserving of a 3rd star. Easy for the grade IF you're feeling confident.

with Mark, The Plough
Pete Scott 25/May/16 Lead O/S
TomJ 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Quite bold at times - really enjoyed it

with afrosam
Hidden 15/May/16 -
CraigPerl 14/May/16 Lead rpt
with Jenny James
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead β
Ranaz 13/May/16 Lead O/S
L.miura 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Julie Carroll
CraigPerl 23/Apr/16 Lead dog

Ended up finishing bolt-to-bolt on The Chronicles of Vladimir

with Jenny James
Steph Roberts 17/Apr/16 TR β
with Chris Weedon
JackMac 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Hayley, Nathan, Jenna Goddard, James
jlgoddard 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead dog
Julie Carroll 13/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Richard, Tristan Graham
Tomar 05/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Jack
ihugrocks ??/2016 -
ian d f 20/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Moved on to Vladimir at top, unintentionally

with Liz F
JoeE 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Awesome starting traverse and finish moves

with Marc Griffiths
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead β
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead β
Dizz 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Steve thorpe
Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead dnf
David Staples 25/Jun/15 Lead dnf
philhaigh 14/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
martin one 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Markus
JackMac 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Nice climb on good holds, just a bit scary traversing at the start. Soft for the grade IMO.

with Gavin Alner, Adam Kent
Hidden 24/Jan/15 TR rpt
Carnie Lisa ??/2015 2nd β
with Dan Verge
Hidden 29/Dec/14 2nd rpt
louby 30/Nov/14 Lead dnf

long way to the lower-off, wimp

Gem Minihan 23/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
George Killaspy 20/Jun/14 Lead RP

Very bold, sequence-y final moves - definitely type 2 fun!

with Milo, Dale
Hidden 18/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead dog

fell on the last move.. stiff at the top!

with John
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
BenL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Linc 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
goddamm7 30/Aug/13 TR β

This was climb of the weekend for me but it would get a 6C 3 star in my opinion the final 3rd gets very thin! excellent climbing on good rock!!

Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead
Ian Ash 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Finished with chronicles of vladimir. Rockfax topo is not very good! I thought the top moves were hard for 6b+!

mattkemp70 ?/Apr/13 2nd

With 6c finish

with Westy
AndyMcCoy 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Bill
trev_f 30/Mar/13 Lead β
with Ed
tonevert 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Jobbo 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller, Leon. D
Rupey 14/Oct/12 TR dog
with Barry
Hidden 27/Aug/12 Lead dnf
philhaigh 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Rob Kennard
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Linc 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Daniel 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jasmina Saric
rustaldo 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

tricky climbing, beware HUEG seagulls. rock is hard to read and snappy in the middle section, which is slightly runout. the top is good.

with Mo, John Salmon
Ali.B 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead β
AlexD 29/Mar/12 Lead
with Ed
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead β
Dandan82 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Saunders
Alex More 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with sam ferguson
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 27/Sep/11 Lead

Tricky crux section halfway up which is tricky to onsight. Otherwise an easy 6b+ as there are no hard moves and its not pumpy.

odox 27/Sep/11 2nd
dswansonlow 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
Kopinski 31/Jul/11 Lead RP
Kopinski 13/Jul/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nice, but not as good as stublock or burning skies. hard to read lower down.

with claudio
Kopinski 25/May/11 Lead dog
Thinker01 14/May/11 Lead O/S

No way this is 6b+! Definitely one to try if you want an easy 6b+ tick.

with Kev Stott
Arcarn 10/Apr/11 Lead β
mlg678 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 24/Mar/11 Lead
with Colin
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Nat
matthewjames 13/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Katie Keeley
Luke Dawson 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
robajob 02/Feb/11 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead RP
feilx 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with Charlie
AlexD 09/Jan/11 2nd
with Felix
clipskipper 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Very good route - lots of variety and a good finish

with Dave (Robins?)
sonic46 10/Oct/10 2nd
with Dave and Lee, Matt Page
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Tristan Graham
3 Names 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
will9911 ?/Jun/10 -
with Fabian
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 21/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Steve H
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ed
vertigo 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Boden
Owen W-G 04/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Make sure you take the bolts right of the groove not on the left closer to the arete. Got pumped and scared on crux, couldn't commit or downclimb, nervous about ledges below, so squealed and jumped off. Only harmed ego but don't think 10 mins of overgrippng did dodgy elbow any favours. Most miserable achievement-free day out climbing in memory.

with David Coley
London Luke ?/Apr/10 Lead
SuseH 07/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Iain
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Brucifer 13/Sep/09 2nd
Ed Babs 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
dan gibson 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Phil79 14/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Dogged my way up this and could not do the top moves. Turns out we had strayed onto the adjacent route a full grade harder. (Chronicles of Vladimir - thanks RockFax!) We thought it was a bit stiff at 6b+.

with Pete
Hidden 11/May/09 TR O/S
tobydunford 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 21/Mar/09 TR O/S
sam_cox 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
breed 08/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S

well exciting. serious rope drag by the top moves. (which were brilliant anyway) bottom a little cheesy.

with josh
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead β
ThomasB ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Kevster ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 -
Richard Horn 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
brian watson 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Lee Lander
bigie bob 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
feilx 06/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/06 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Billg 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Bowen
LC ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
just one more 30/May/03 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
John Southworth 15/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
just one more 21/Apr/02 Lead
with Svenn G
Jus ??/2002 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
clark alston ?/Dec/98 Lead O/S
with Steve Thorpe
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set