Rockfax Description
A really good, long wall-pitch on fine rock. Start at a crack-line in the lower wall. Climb the gradually-steepening wall to a thrilling finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jun/1995

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Red Spot Portland 2016, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland.

Hidden 02/Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Aug TR dog
gw97 16/Aug Lead O/S
tom.wp6 16/Aug Lead O/S

Great climb

with George Wood
nacnud 12/Aug Lead
LuapRagas 12/Aug Lead O/S

Second ever 6B+ onsight, straight after first ever 6C onsight. I think it is fair to say that training works. An amazing route that just keeps on going. Save some juice for the spicy finale....

johnhan310 06/Aug Lead O/S
toktam 06/Aug 2nd
with Nigel
David Dickinson 06/Aug Lead O/S

Superb, first 6b+ onsight in Portland!

dryvita 06/Aug Lead β
Hidden 06/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug Lead
Chops 05/Aug Lead O/S
tonevert 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Richard Thomas
CraigPerl 16/Jul Lead O/S
Phippy 15/Jul Lead O/S

Gets harder as it gets higher

Hidden 02/Jul TR rpt
mattb42 25/Jun Lead O/S
David Sz 25/Jun Lead β
JB Vendeville 04/Jun TR dog
rockafunked 04/Jun Lead RP

Finally returned to claim the redpoint. It appears there is a new bolt on the overhang just before the anchor.

Hidden 03/Jun Lead O/S
Anna Maykova 31/May Lead O/S
with Ian
vickydavies 27/May Lead O/S
with Emily
EmilyElouise 27/May Lead O/S
with Vicky
Sam4242 22/May Lead O/S
littleluke 21/May Lead
rachelvlc 21/May Lead
Kayface42 07/May Lead RP
with Si
Thinker01 06/May Lead O/S
gem_stone12 ?/May Lead O/S
Kayface42 29/Apr Lead dog

So close to onsight and fell clipping the chains! Heartbreaker. Next time. Gorgeous route!

with Si
Linc 29/Apr Lead rpt
with Kay
Hidden 23/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr Lead rpt
robgixer 19/Apr Lead O/S
Ossolano78 16/Apr Lead O/S
Tristan.Stricker 15/Apr -

Woah. Blown away by how good this is. Nice rock, good moves and looong!

Jay-Ast 14/Apr Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 14/Apr 2nd dog
richsmithinbristol 09/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr Lead O/S
spidey 08/Apr Lead O/S


with Daryl
Widda 02/Apr 2nd RP

1st RP. One of the best 6b+'s I've ever climbed - quality all the way and bang on the grade because of the mid-height crux.

chris_woodsy 02/Apr Lead
with Widdaz
Hidden 01/Apr Lead dnf
David Staples 01/Apr Lead rpt
Marti999 31/Mar Lead rpt
with Marwan
Marti999 31/Mar Lead rpt
with Marwan
Hidden 26/Mar Lead
alastairbegley 26/Mar Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Mar Lead O/S
David Staples 19/Feb Lead
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Bettymolly 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S
tsyrett 30/Oct/16 Lead rpt
dparsons 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Nathan, JackMac, James
Linc 22/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
Roland stopps 02/Oct/16 TR
with Sally
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead
alexspurling 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Az
Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Tru 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
rockafunked ?/Sep/16 Lead dog

Took a fall half a meter from the anchor - gutted, but will claim the redpoint soon.

Tom courtiour 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Quitiweb 09/Aug/16 Lead β
with Shamina
hfotheri 07/Aug/16 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
dohart 25/Jul/16 Lead

First go - felt I was trusting my feet well.

with herve
OllyDewhirst 17/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Cathy
cathymiller 17/Jul/16 Lead dnf
with Olly
bryan61 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt

a great route start to finish

with m meaney
Hidden 10/Jul/16 2nd RP
GrahamGiles 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Found this really hard for the grade, lots of pulling in nothing, good quality rock but didn't think much of it

dohart 05/Jul/16 Lead dog
with Patrick
will black 01/Jul/16 Lead G/U
Alex Norman 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Doug
Lakesben 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route, tricky in the middle but nice once you find the sequence

with Mark, The Plough
RKirke 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Banksy
artmal 15/May/16 Lead O/S
L.miura 15/May/16 Lead RP

Got it on 2nd go. Foot slipped on my first go, silly mistake!

with Julie Carroll
TomJ 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with afrosam
afrosam 15/May/16 Lead β
with TomJ
Jack Shewring 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/16 -
luke glaister 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Quality line. Thin moves in the middle to a rest then the final moves to glory.

Steph Roberts 23/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Chris Weedon, Sam
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Weedon, Steph
Steph Roberts 17/Apr/16 TR β
with Chris Weedon
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead RP
Gem Minihan 02/Apr/16 TR rpt
Livia 02/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd attempt

with Artur M
MontyH 25/Mar/16 TR
with Brian and Paul
Brian H 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Alice
alice fuller 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
brian watson 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
lewiz 20/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Artur Malczuk
tsyrett 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead dnf
JackMac 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Tomar
Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
poeter210 14/Feb/16 Lead rpt
FlavioL1989 22/Nov/15 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 22/Nov/15 Lead dnf
with Flavio
Graeme Hammond 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Matti Puckridge 25/Jul/15 Lead
tash 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant long route, lots of variety.

with ali k
Jpinnegor 22/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Tom Seccombe 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Edward Kwong 28/Jun/15 Lead β

Solid varied route. Crux in the sharp middle section. Be bold at the top, there are decent holds!

Matti Puckridge 28/Jun/15 Lead dog

This is a long route. Tie a knot in your rope.

rachelvlc 28/Jun/15 2nd
samparsons 25/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Beautiful flowly climb.

mossrug 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt
jamesb101 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with lucy
Hidden 05/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 25/May/15 Lead rpt
Martin Bagshaw 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex 02/May/15 Lead O/S

Even lenger! strayed on to the route to the right and had to traverse in before the bulge. bit thin...

with Mofire Crewdem
David Staples 27/Apr/15 TR
Hidden 27/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Ian Bell 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Excellent route deserving of its stars. Good rests.

with Tania T
martin one 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S

1 rest required in one place

with Markus
innes 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead β
Kris suriyo 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
poeter210 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Peri
Hidden 17/Feb/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jan/15 TR rpt
kingborris ??/2015 -
penny.orr ??/2015 -
Carnie Lisa ??/2015 2nd β
with Dan Verge
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Lorène ?/Nov/14 Lead
Gem Minihan 23/Aug/14 TR dog

Peeled off at the chains :(

Luke Owens 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Flows so well! Classic.

elyben 19/Aug/14 Lead
bigdrew 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
eel 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andy J
lewiz 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S


Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
J5Kay 02/Jul/14 Lead β
Pete Dangerous 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
John Tanner 25/May/14 Lead dog
Macca_7 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Another fantastic route but much easier than burning skies! Short lived crux section but enjoyable all the way.

Michael Aylen 25/May/14 Lead RP

1 redpoint

with Macca
professorcobra 25/May/14 Lead O/S
dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead O/S

considerably easier than burning skies!

with John
Jay81 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tomar
Tomar 17/May/14 Lead O/S
TB30 20/Apr/14 Lead

First onsight of a 6b+ woop

GazzerM55 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Abi Chard 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Ian
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead β
sarpedon 08/Mar/14 Lead rpt
AlexD 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with James Doc, Sarp
sarpedon 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Last route of the day. Nice one, good length.

BenL 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Sarp
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead β
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Linc 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 23/Aug/13 TR O/S
just one more 29/Jul/13 Lead
with babs schempp
JackMac 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Very nice route. All the holds are there - no obvious crux to me - I was just pumped by the end :)

philhaigh 19/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford, Shamina Kapadia
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dan_F 15/Jun/13 Lead RP

Flashed.!! Climbed this route 2 years ago on TR clean, but flashed it today... Awesome route even if it was 28mph winds.

with Ben jones
Ian Ash 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/May/13 Lead rpt
with alice thompson
DorsetGareth 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tom B
thomb 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Gareth, Tom Syrett
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Graham Westbrook 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
el_monty 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Apr/13 2nd
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/13 Lead
with Westy
Joe Innes 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Hmm... Possibly the strangest route name ever?!?

Si27 30/Mar/13 TR O/S
with Dan
trev_f 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
tsyrett ??/2013 2nd O/S
Jonnie Watkins ??/2013 -
Tommyads ??/2013 -
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead O/S
John Mcshea 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Jobbo 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller, Leon. D
Rupey 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Barry
Hidden 07/Oct/12 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead β
Hidden 27/Aug/12 Lead O/S
philhaigh 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
MBarraclough 26/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead β

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012.

patrickc 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
pigeonslipper 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
metal arms 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S


catblack 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

felt quite steady, top not as hard as i was expecting, lots of ledges to rest on!

Andrew Barker 06/Apr/12 Lead β
Laurence Everitt 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead dog
Marti999 24/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Brian H 15/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
matt perks ??/2012 -
Kevster 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with toby
Toby Dunn 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

almost no redeeming features whatsoever

with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet, Toby
dswansonlow 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Barbour
dan gibson 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 21/Sep/11 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead
embob 30/Aug/11 Lead

Really really pleased with this, what a battle! Found the moves through the bulge very tough. Couldn't reach the knob and wasted loads of energy and skin. The sequence after felt tenuous. Then easy through the final groove, to the forearm destroying step up to the lower-off. > 1 hour on the route I reckon. EA.

with Alex
Owen W-G 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Last and best route of day. Was still pumped before I set off so grateful for all the hands off rests.

with Jim
jgordon75 09/Jul/11 Lead dnf

I was ill - but no-one will let me use that as an excuse :-(

Jonathan Emett 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 07/Jul/11 Lead dog

One fall at 2nd crux. Only 3 moves away from a decent rest! Not to be today I guess

John Tanner 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Taylor, Joe Premier
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
ian-rad 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Another great 3 star climb, few people said the crux was the first scoop, found that relatively easy, my crux was moving up right after this. Hugely pumped by the anchor, desperate to find that good hold as your last clip seems a long way down :0)

plilley 26/Jun/11 Lead dog

Great route - just missed the onsite and took a lob from the top.... Too pumped to clip!

with Ian Rao
Jack R-N 04/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Far too hot to do this one. The sun drained all my energy so had nothing left to do the top. Definatly not a crag to come to on a hot day as there is no shade at all

Pippa 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Apr/11 Lead β
barfani chita 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Saurus
Saurus 26/Mar/11 Lead RP

Brilliant route, two good sequency crux's but with good rests in-between. Don't run out of gas at the top though!

Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
Alex More 16/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Howell
Abi Chard 15/Mar/11 Lead O/S
matthewjames 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Katie Keeley
Kopinski 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan M
Brian H 23/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 09/Jan/11 Lead
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead O/S
brices 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S

miles harder than burning skies burning skies is so much better 2

mlg678 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with simon
Jonathan Emett 19/Sep/10 Lead rpt

practically onsight, I had forgotten it. btw it is memorable because it is good, not because it is hard!

with crispin
Joe Grondowski 05/Sep/10 Lead
with Andy Grondowski
ThomasB ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
riddle 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

A great line, although it is longer than the book suggests. Oh it was very memorable.

with Yasmina
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Dandan82 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Tucker
ursus77 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! Not that sustained, more possibilities for rest. Now it is a second route from the big crack and follows left of the bush about 10m high

Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve H
3 Names 15/May/10 Lead O/S
givemetea 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Patrick
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
feilx 17/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
hippo99 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with morgan
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
celoisa 10/May/09 Lead dog
with Nic
Hidden 01/May/09 Lead O/S
chris j 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Josh
Jus 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Billg 14/Feb/09 2nd rpt
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead β
with billg
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Ducks Rock ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
schof 06/Dec/08 -
with mike hawkins
vertigo 06/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Felix
Paz 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with MK
tobydunford 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
BenNorman ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S


with kev norman
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 12/Sep/08 Lead dog

one fall. emotionally drained at the end!

with Matic
Matt Bennett 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with David S
Steerpike 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Bruce
jw231 27/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Tom Grant
dannyboy83 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2008 -
just one more 28/Jul/07 Lead
with jason, tim b, john smith
Rob Kennard 24/Jul/07 -
with Jon Howell
Dan_Carroll 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
LC ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2006 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Mark Stevenson 20/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
just one more 21/Sep/02 Lead
with Svenn G
Jus ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/01 Lead O/S
John Southworth 05/May/01 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Feb/01 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Mark Kemball 10/Apr/98 2nd
with Jason Lloyd
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead RP
clark alston ?/Mar/96 Lead

Tried this a few years before bolting and got quite scared!

53 users have this on their wishlist
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set