Rockfax Description
A really good, long wall pitch on fine rock. Start at a crackline in the lower wall. Climb the gradually-steepening wall to a thrilling finish. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 18/Jun/1995.
Ticklists
A Guide for Progress in Dorset , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , Gwenland , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , The post lockdown local list , Portland Olympian , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Blacknor Central Sport Climbs , Portland - 19/06/24 , Sportland 2025 , 3* Portland Sport 2021
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tomdale | 14 Dec, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: I wouldn't say the loss of the block people have mentioned changes the grade, though that section is slightly harder. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I wouldn't say the loss of the block people have mentioned changes the grade, though that section is slightly harder. |
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| SimonLeggett | 19 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is at the area where the block fell from. The moves I made to climb this section felt slightly harder for me than anything on Burning Skies. Possibly bad beta, but could be a 6c route now. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is at the area where the block fell from. The moves I made to climb this section felt slightly harder for me than anything on Burning Skies. Possibly bad beta, but could be a 6c route now. |
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| ohrworm | 28 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Huge bit of rock came off just above 8th bolt. It was quite an essential hold that you later stood on so the route may not be the same grade anymore. Some of the later flakes also felt hollow, climb with care if you still want to get on this. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Huge bit of rock came off just above 8th bolt. It was quite an essential hold that you later stood on so the route may not be the same grade anymore. Some of the later flakes also felt hollow, climb with care if you still want to get on this. |
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| KAckroyd | 1 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 13 bolts, 14 draws required including one for the top. If you stand by the crack at the base of the route, it should be the line of bolts straight up, you can always see the next bolt. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 13 bolts, 14 draws required including one for the top. If you stand by the crack at the base of the route, it should be the line of bolts straight up, you can always see the next bolt. |
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| ZacMoss | 27 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Have a look at some of the photos attached to this climb when trying to find it on the wall, there been a lot more bolts added to this wall since the guide book was published!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Have a look at some of the photos attached to this climb when trying to find it on the wall, there been a lot more bolts added to this wall since the guide book was published!! |
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| Gazmataz | 4 Jan, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbers club guide says ten bolts but it’s wrong. It’s more like 13 or 14 I think. Either someone’s added bolts or they were wrong to begin with. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Climbers club guide says ten bolts but it’s wrong. It’s more like 13 or 14 I think. Either someone’s added bolts or they were wrong to begin with. |
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| John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Classic, but pumpy. Not a route for the end of the day. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Classic, but pumpy. Not a route for the end of the day. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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The Jewel of the Isle
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Wallsend South)