UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
A very popular introduction to the climbing in this area. © Rockfax

FA. Jane Wylie 30/Apr/1995.

Ticklists

4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport)

Feedback

User Date Notes
chigozie 19 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose left hand hold between the 3rd and 4th clip. Chalked with a cross
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose left hand hold between the 3rd and 4th clip. Chalked with a cross
omniscient_penguin 8 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Re-did this with help and it wasn't that hard the second time. Still a bit gutsy though. I used my right hand in the slot above the ledge, leaned out left and clipped from that position - which is quite intense on your right arm. You could use the slot, bring the right leg up and mantle the ledge and once there, there are super grips on the break.
Show beta
βeta: Re-did this with help and it wasn't that hard the second time. Still a bit gutsy though. I used my right hand in the slot above the ledge, leaned out left and clipped from that position - which is quite intense on your right arm. You could use the slot, bring the right leg up and mantle the ledge and once there, there are super grips on the break.
omniscient_penguin 2 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Really lovely climbing all the way up to the crux, but man, I felt exposed pushing up over the last bolt and not having much for my hands. Maybe I missed something obvious? Big obvious ledge and a little flake a little above it and that was about it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really lovely climbing all the way up to the crux, but man, I felt exposed pushing up over the last bolt and not having much for my hands. Maybe I missed something obvious? Big obvious ledge and a little flake a little above it and that was about it.
Wilbur 24 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Use the holds on the right and trust your feet and it's fine. possibly is a 5...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Use the holds on the right and trust your feet and it's fine. possibly is a 5...
Wayne.Gaudin 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Found the last section very hard. Managed to get level with the lower off but fell off before I could clip in. I must have missed a hand or foothold at this point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the last section very hard. Managed to get level with the lower off but fell off before I could clip in. I must have missed a hand or foothold at this point.
SC 13 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The top move is no harder than 4. There is a hold up high to the left, use this and its easy.
Show beta
βeta: The top move is no harder than 4. There is a hold up high to the left, use this and its easy.

Logged Ascents

1630 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 66 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 91
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)

Loading Notifications...