UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
Take the small bulge near the top on the left via a tiny seam. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes 25/Jul/1992.

Ticklists

Portland , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Blacknor South Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
P Natl 1 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook is correct, going left on thin crack/seam makes sense and is a good climb at the lower end of the grade.
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βeta: The guidebook is correct, going left on thin crack/seam makes sense and is a good climb at the lower end of the grade.
Paul Sagar 16 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook beta about the top section may now be erroneous if anchors have been moved? Couldn’t see any way in which you would go left up a thin seam, at least not when there is a really obvious rightward section.
βeta?
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βeta: The guidebook beta about the top section may now be erroneous if anchors have been moved? Couldn’t see any way in which you would go left up a thin seam, at least not when there is a really obvious rightward section.
Lloyders 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: low in the grade i feel but a nice route... good top moves!
βeta?
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βeta: low in the grade i feel but a nice route... good top moves!
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: again here the route used to top out and the final moves were the hardest/most committing. I regularly see our taller visiters reaching through the crux moves to clip the belay rather than climbing them.
βeta?
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βeta: again here the route used to top out and the final moves were the hardest/most committing. I regularly see our taller visiters reaching through the crux moves to clip the belay rather than climbing them.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Barely 6b if done on the left. I hate single bolt lower offs.
βeta?
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βeta: Barely 6b if done on the left. I hate single bolt lower offs.
Ewan 24 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: 2 moves near the top worth 6b+, the rest is fairly easy
βeta?
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βeta: 2 moves near the top worth 6b+, the rest is fairly easy

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking the King

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Coastguard South)

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