UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
A good and very well-trodden line with interesting moves. © Rockfax

FA. Jane Wylie 30/Apr/1995.

Ticklists

4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport)

Feedback

User Date Notes
fimar 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Due to the ground at the base of the climb having dropped over the past few years, the start is harder - not a friendly start to a 5.
βeta?
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βeta: Due to the ground at the base of the climb having dropped over the past few years, the start is harder - not a friendly start to a 5.
Alex More 16 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Deserves a star, cool route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Deserves a star, cool route
Wilbur 31 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: really nice 5 - well worth doing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: really nice 5 - well worth doing
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: One of the few really nice warm ups in this area.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the few really nice warm ups in this area.

Logged Ascents

1523 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 131
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slings Shot

Grade: 5a ***
(Blacknor North)

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