Rockfax Description
One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Full Retro by DBF April 17

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland, Portland, Dorset.

GrahamGiles 24/Sep Lead O/S

A real gem! Thoroughly enjoyed with a nice crux.

with Clive Brennen, Aaron Clifford, Joanne, Alex
Tristan.Stricker 27/Aug Lead O/S

Surprised to onsite this as first route of the day.

with Tash
beefy_legacy 12/Aug Lead dog

So close to getting this 2nd go, spotted key foot for the crux. To come back for

with Simon
dean_c88 06/Aug Lead RP

First of the grade!

adamsriches 05/Aug Lead dog

Came off at the first crux at the bulge went through the rest fine.

with Elodie
julesmckim 01/Aug Lead dog

Damn! Missed a big side-pull first go and had a rest. Brilliant climbing all the way and some lovely holds. Awesome route. Gutted not to get it on-sight but loved the climbing all the same.

slowmotion 09/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun Lead RP
Charlie Low 17/Jun Lead RP

What an amazing route! Flows so well. Had one session a couple of weeks ago, got it first RP this time despite it being extremely hot and sweaty!!

Linc 17/Jun Lead dog
with Kay
Dale Comley 17/Jun Lead O/S

Lessworkmoreclimbing 16/Jun TR
with Jonathan, Kev
samparsons 14/Jun Lead RP
Jack93 03/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 27/May Lead rpt
Sam4242 22/May Lead dnf
mikespooner 22/Apr Lead O/S

Super nice route, happy to get it first go after nearly dropping it on the crux!

RKirke 22/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr Lead RP
Marti999 31/Mar Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Mar Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 27/Mar Lead dog

Got pumped like a punter.

with Tom
alastairbegley 25/Mar Lead dnf
luke glaister 22/Jan Lead dog

Once again fell on the crux. I'd get it in a few goes but didn't have the time. Need to get it when we come again. The top is utterly brilliant too.

Beefy Bert ??/2017 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
MSchobitz 06/Nov/16 Lead dog

Lovely - almost Kalymnian - climbing.

with Sam McCarthy, USMC
tonevert 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Paloma
nickt 31/Jul/16 Lead dog

Beautiful climbing, shame I was tired, maybe could have done better than the 3/4 falls. But still, part three of the Nick and Ed Awesome Hat-trick!

Ed Houghton 31/Jul/16 Lead dog
Jack Shewring 30/Jul/16 Lead dnf
joese7en 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Straight from the Exchange after 2 pints waiting for the rain to stop. Fine indeed.

Dizz 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Third trip up of the day, temp in the 30s, brilliant climbing, v cruxy

with Chris mooney
bryan61 16/Jul/16 Lead dog

brilliant I will try this again

with m meaney
patrickcd 08/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Doug
BenNorman 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Absolutely class, top 3 routes ive done I think!! The top half is just heaven!

Brian H 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt

RP - on Pete's quickdraws and copying his crux sequence, which was much better than the sketchy one I used when I first did this years ago. Excellent route.

Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead RP
evans859 16/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Reached 3rd bolt before having to retreat due to rain. Will return to this next time!

Hidden 11/Jun/16 Lead RP
LJC 28/May/16 -
luke glaister 01/May/16 Lead dog

Really gutted I attempted it now. Last route of a long night... and day. Just never climbed it. Then seen its a top 50. My first time is portland and love the place. The route is class by the way. Definitely get it when not so tired. Lol.

spidey 01/May/16 Lead RP
AlexD 16/Apr/16 Lead RP
with Mike
Martin Bagshaw 10/Apr/16 Lead RP

Pleased to get this first try today. Very classy route.

with Tom Hudson
Kipper-Phil Smith 22/Mar/16 Lead

Glad to get this on sight excellent route

with Shaun
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
cdpuk 01/Nov/15 TR dog
Bernie L 01/Nov/15 Lead RP

1st RP

ian d f 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Liz F
Dizz 25/Oct/15 2nd dog

need to go back for this :)

with Ian F
Josh Hadley 25/Oct/15 Lead dog
Martin Bagshaw 06/Sep/15 Lead dog

Crux took a little working out, not far from pulling through the first time round though.

with Tom Hudson
Dizz 09/Aug/15 2nd

Got all the moves ... hard!

with Steve thorpe
AlexD 21/Jul/15 Lead dog

Bit of a blind reach at crux, needed beta!

with Steve
hankyc 13/Jul/15 Lead O/S

another cracking flowstone outing

Robheirene 04/Jul/15 Lead dog

Fell on the thin crux section when I missed the 2 finger pocket (no chalk surprisingly), onsighted the rest. Amazing climbing after the crux.

hervenuttall ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Doug
rajeshwarbisht 28/Jun/15 Lead dnf
with Duncan
SDM 28/Jun/15 Lead
with Duncan, Michael
Hidden 28/Jun/15 Lead β
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jun/15 TR
David Staples 24/Jun/15 TR dog
David Staples 24/Jun/15 TR RP
Didymus 13/Jun/15 Lead dog

bad week at office

with Nick
AJM 07/Jun/15 Lead RP

Mucked up the crux first go.

dbrooks 30/May/15 Lead dog

Felt hard although was at the end of a long day... One to come back for

with John
Hidden 20/Apr/15 -
PaulTclimbing ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Pete
Gem Minihan 05/Oct/14 TR dog
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 01/Sep/14 Lead β
robajob 27/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Kt
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Found this harder than To Wish the Impossible.

phillipwright ?/Jun/14 Lead RP

Best 6c+ ever!

with mop449
SandyJJS 13/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
BenL 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
mrteale 26/Sep/13 Lead dog
philhaigh 12/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
philhaigh 10/Sep/13 2nd dog

Injured so could only use heel and outside edge of right foot. In Barry's words - 'like watching a 3-legged dog'. Painful!

with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge
Barry Kerslake 10/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh, Mel
lewiz 26/Aug/13 Lead dog
redjerry 24/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Danny
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
dan gibson 10/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mop449 21/Jun/13 Lead RP
JackMac 08/Jun/13 Lead dnf

One to revisit.

Ellis Butler-Barker 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with JackMac
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

One desperate move leading to solid finish on flowstone.

John_Beesley ?/Jun/13 Lead RP

First 6c+! Great feeling to top out. Awesome pumpy crux, followed by delicate, but easy, moves on some beautiful flowstone! Perfect!

with Sam Carr, Danny Gottschalk
quiffhanger 26/May/13 Lead O/S

V good. Just persevere on the couple of hard moves, you're back on jugs v soon.

with Kate
Haydn Jones 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with ben harding
Dan_Carroll 31/Mar/13 Lead dog
with Iain
DP1977 ??/2013 Lead dog
jackappleby 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

nice climb. after crux gets juggier and juggier. potential for clean ascent.

DannyK 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with chrislgk, Katie
DannyK 14/Sep/12 Lead RP
with chrislgk, Katie
schof 11/Sep/12 Lead RP
with Angus
ANC 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

One of the best sports routes I've done.

DannyK 09/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Katie
DannyK 09/Sep/12 TR rpt
with Katie
skhill 04/Sep/12 Lead β
mark20 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 23/Aug/12 2nd RP
rustaldo 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

tough onsight, felt harder than 6c+, didn't feel much easier than englands dreaming

with Mo, John Salmon
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012.

philhaigh 06/Jun/12 Lead dog
lucachitara 04/Jun/12 Lead dog
Jay81 13/May/12 Lead β
with david
Martin Cleaver 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

I beat the rain to grab this ascent

with Alek
alek 21/Apr/12 Lead dog

To be continued... I didn't beat the rain

Daniel Wicks 06/Apr/12 Lead
with Tash
Andrew Barker 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Good with a tough crux.

Rupey ?/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Tomar 10/Mar/12 Lead RP

1st redpoint. Very good

burto 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with steve
matt perks ??/2012 -
Sophie Nunn 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Jon Emmet, Toby
Sophie Nunn 16/Oct/11 TR dog
with Jon Emmet, Toby
Toby Dunn 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Aug/11 -
Seb Lee 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

couldn't link, need to come back after some stamina training.

with Angus Girlspie
robertmichaellovell 10/Jun/11 Lead

pleased with this, nice

with Andi
Kopinski 25/May/11 Lead β
Sparky!!!3 25/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead dnf
MarkRyder 01/May/11 Lead RP
with Ivan M
john rensten 25/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Dom, Bryan
brian watson 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Pete Frost, Paul Milton
JPGR 10/Apr/11 -
thomb 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt

finally came back to get this clean. on a hangover.

with Maddy, Darren
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
JasTaplin 13/Mar/11 TR β
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Joe Grondowski 05/Sep/10 Lead
with Andy Grondowski
ThomasB ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Superb! Skin was killing me on the bottom half which is quite thin (but gives fantastic, quite steep climbing). Top half is much steadier but gives the most flowing climbing I've done in portland, beauty!

with Dunken
J5Kay 02/Aug/10 Lead
dohart ?/Aug/10 TR dnf

I reckon this is one the best routes I have been on - definately one to do

with martin
harry40740 26/May/10 2nd
vertigo 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
Ben Harper 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
SuseH 21/Feb/10 TR dog
with Iain
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
ian1234567 ??/2010 Lead β
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
feilx 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden 11/Oct/09 TR dog
givemetea 10/Oct/09 2nd β
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Luke d 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S


Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rab Carrington
Mike_Hayes 26/Jul/09 -
Ed Babs 19/Jul/09 Lead RP
with Harry
Morgan Woods 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Tough crux but great route.

with David S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
tobydunford 06/Jun/09 Lead β
with Sarah Wysling
Ed Booth 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S

In the evning when i arrived

Alex More ??/2009 Lead dog
with Sparky
Alex More ??/2009 Lead dog
with Sparky
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 27/Dec/08 Lead RP
andybirtwistle 27/Sep/08 2nd
with Andy Grondowski
dannyboy83 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Paz 02/Aug/08 Lead RP

1st RP (went wrong way on the flash, but it's damn hard ftg).

with WG
Matt Bennett 20/Jul/08 Lead RP
Bob Loblaw 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Nicholson
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with andy elliot
Ian Broome 10/May/08 Lead rpt
with Tanya
Hidden ??/2008 Lead β
thomb ??/2008 Lead dog

Dogged, must return to this awesome climb and take it clean!

with Jo
Richard Horn 21/Oct/07 Lead RP
nblackbeard 20/Oct/07 Lead dog
gfoster 20/Oct/07 2nd dog

Three rests no falls. Nice climb, very pumpy

jw231 20/Oct/07 Lead RP
nblackbeard 17/Oct/07 TR dog
jw231 17/Oct/07 Lead dog
BobbyH ?/May/07 2nd dog
Jus 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Ian Broome 05/Nov/06 Lead dog

really quality, one to do next time

with Simon
Mark Kemball 15/Oct/06 Lead dog

One fall, but I'd not got enough strength left to get back on for the redpoint.

Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead RP
bigie bob 06/May/06 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 25/May/05 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 03/Aug/03 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
goi.ashmore 23/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
EllieWoods 24/May/03 TR dog
with Ian Denton
EllieWoods ?/May/03 TR dog

2 rests

with Ian Denton
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 15/May/02 Lead dog
with Mike Smith
Hidden 02/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Billg 25/Feb/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden 01/Apr/99 2nd
duncan 14/Mar/99 Lead RP
with Rei Kozaki
Hidden ??/1998 Lead RP
Simon cook ??/1998 -
clark alston ?/Oct/97 Lead O/S
with Steve Thorpe, Simon Cook
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
phardman 29/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Roget 17/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 16/Apr/95 -
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set