UKC Logbook - Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Contributed by edodai Apr/23 - This public ticklist has been seen 1,018 times

https://pongoose.com/blogs/climbing-articles/portland-sport-route-gems
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We all have access to the logbooks and guidebooks that allocate routes certain numbers of stars for how good the route is, but sometimes we feel differently and think a one star route is worth three stars, or the other way around. We asked a pool of local climbers that frequent Portland A LOT what their favourite routes are of each grade. These are the ones that popped up the most:

Marcus high on Pregnant Pause, F6a+, Blacknor, Portland © Didymus — Marcus high on Pregnant Pause, F6a+, Blacknor, Portland
© Didymus, Jul 2011

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	philhaigh	69%	13 Aug
2nd	P Natl	53%	9 Aug
3rd	Hidden	40%	8 Feb, 2023
4th	dean_c88	36%	6 May
5th	ethanr2000	34%	26 May
6th	wdhayward	31%	22 Jun
7th	Ben Postlethwaite	21%	17 Apr
8th	Hidden	14%	5 Apr
9th	Chris Stevens	9%	23 Aug
10th	lieraza	7%	28 May, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades - Sport

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

unknown climber on Pregnant Pause, Portland © sebf

Pulling through the steep rockover that guards the chains. © Jon_Butters

'Burning Skies' with a burning sky. © samparsons

Emmie gritting her teeth. © After The Send

Pete Oxley climbing Hurricane on a Millpond (7c+) at the Cuttings © James Dunlop

John Maskell climbing the superb flowstone of Slings Shot (F5), Blacknor North, Dorset. © AndyStripp

Rusty on Superfly Guy with the a sun spotlight! © Alex Hallam

Enjoyable exposure and some winter sun. © Ben.o.neill

Andy Schofield on Zinc Oxide Mountain © Rob Kennard

Seb Miller making the impossible, possible! © After The Send

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
1	Tombstone	3c **	1490	14m		Godnor
2	Voices in the Bower	3c **	1119	18m		The Cuttings
3	Imperfect	3c *	1590	10m		Blacknor South
4	Fallen Slab	3a ***	3058	22m		Blacknor Beach
5	The Bumper Fun Book	4a *	910	?		The Cuttings
6	Jutland	4b **	1003	?		Blacknor South
7	Godbeams	4c *	936	?		The Cuttings
8	Quality Family Day	4c **	1811	?		The Cuttings
9	Jam	4c **	2007	11m		The Cuttings
10	Best Destiny	4c **	948	20m		Blacknor Central
11	Do Ixtlan	5b *	1846	10m		Blacknor South
12	Slings Shot	5a ***	3455	22m		Blacknor North
13	Jacob's Ladder	5a **	1457	15m		Godnor
14	Amen Corner	5a **	1663	10m		The Cuttings
15	Time Out of Mind	5c *	1211	15m		The Cuttings
16	Talking Smack	5c *	642	22m		Blacknor North
17	Birthday Girl	5c *	495	19m		Blacknor Central
18	Aperitif	5c **	391	?		The Cuttings
19	Limbo Dancer	6a *	605	?		The New Cuttings
20	Inception	6a *	1287	15m		Neddyfields
21	For Michèle	6a **	467	?		The Cuttings
22	The Price of Silence	6a **	2186	19m		Battleship Back...
23	Monsoon Malabar	6a **	1313	22m		Blacknor Central
24	Shit Happens, Actually	6a **	1634	20m		Blacknor Central
25	Pregnant Pause	6a+ ***	1879	26m		Blacknor Central
26	Consommé	6a+ **	2029	17m		The Cuttings
27	Stalker's Zone	6a+ ***	1007	28m		Wallsend South
28	Reptile Smile	6a+ ***	2796	22m		Blacknor North
29	The Lizard of Oz	6a+ **	1260	10m		Blacknor South
30	Very Sleepy River	6b **	1266	22m		Blacknor North
31	Wonderlust	6b **	1027	16m		Neddyfields
32	The Wilsonator	6b *	280	13m		Neddyfields
33	Old Buffer	6b *	441	?		The Cuttings
34	Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth	6b **	1536	11m		The Cuttings
35	Walking the King	6b+ ***	212	25m		Coastguard South
36	Adonis Blue	6b+ *	35	8m		White Hole
37	Buoys Will Be Buoys	6b+ ***	1544	27m		Battleship Back...
38	Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation	6b+ ***	913	28m		Blacknor Central
39	Return to Roissy	6b+ **	573	28m		Blacknor Central
40	Burning Skies	6c ***	604	28m		Blacknor Central
41	The Long Walk	6c **	250	25m		Blacknor Central
42	Babelicious Redhead	6c *	286	26m		Blacknor Central
43	Downtown Julie Brown	6c ***	1479	22m		Blacknor North
44	The Unworthy	6c **	323	11m		The New Cuttings
45	The Cutting Edge	6c+ ***	1055	12m		The Cuttings
46	Turned to Stone	6c+ ***	637	23m		Blacknor South
47	Nothing but the Groove	6c+ ***	409	24m		Coastguard North
48	Julie Ocean	6c+ **	520	17m		Neddyfields
49	Jurassic Shift	7a **	616	27m		Battleship Back...
50	Superfly Guy	7a ***	621	22m		Coastguard North
51	Wolfgang Forever	7a **	830	22m		Blacknor North
52	To Wish the Impossible	7a ***	1021	20m		Blacknor South
53	Portland Heights	7a ***	483	28m		Blacknor Central
54	Haute Cuisine	7a+ **	652	16m		The Cuttings
55	Live by the Sword	7a+ **	535	18m		The Cuttings
56	Bend Sinister	7a+ **	91	10m		The New Cuttings
57	Kendo Nagasaki	7a+ **	146	20m		Blacknor Far South
58	Cybernetic Orchard	7a+ **	102	28m		Blacknor Central
59	Pump Hitler	7a+ ***	527	26m		Battleship Back...
60	Zinc Oxide Mountain	7b+ ***	477	28m		Battleship Back...
61	Sign of the Vulcan	7b+ ***	147	10m		The Cuttings
62	Wax Museum	7b+ ***	79	18m		Coastguard North
63	Road Rage	7b+ ***	359	20m		Cheyne Cliff
64	Running It In	7c **	104	23m		Coastguard North
65	Saskatchewan Uranium Miner	7c ***	30	28m		Wallsend South
66	Tennessee	7c ***	62	25m		Coastguard South
67	Hall of Mirrors	7c ***	373	18m		The Cuttings
68	Crucifix Kiss	7c **	45	17m		Blacknor Central
69	Illusions	7c+ ***	86	20m		Cheyne Cliff
70	King of the Swingers	7c+ ***	2	20m		Cave Hole
71	Monoculture	8a ***	43	19m		Battleship Edge
72	The Mind Terrorist	8a **	24	10m		The Cuttings
73	Hurricane on a Millpond	8a **	32	16m		The Cuttings
74	The Breathing Method	8a ***	84	18m		The Cuttings
75	Fighting Torque	8a ***	183	18m		The Cuttings
76	Freaky Ralph	8a+ ***	41	20m		Blacknor North
		169 stars	63,680	1,318m	76