Rockfax Description
A superb sustained line with a stiff finish if taken direct. © Rockfax

FA. Helen Heanes Apr/1998

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

gem_stone12 20/Sep/17 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Sachi
Widda 05/Aug/17 Lead RP

1st RP. Too scared to go to the anchors on the warm up. Very happy not to have bailed!

chris_woodsy 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Jane Weir 25/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Neal Heanes
Matt Smith 17/Jun/17 Lead dog

Direct version. Had to grab bolt at lower off to avoid fall off greasy finger rail.

with Afroditi Kardarmaki
Lessworkmoreclimbing 16/Jun/17 Lead
with Jonathan, Kev
dryvita 07/May/17 Lead RP

2nd redpoint attempt. final section is steady once you know the moves but clipping the chains off the glassy crimp is horrendous

with Ed Bot
Mark Stevenson 03/May/17 Lead rpt
Trippinjester 23/Apr/17 TR dog
David Staples 23/Apr/17 Lead dog
MarcinK 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Tricky last clip

with Ivan Alvarez
DanielGyi 15/Apr/17 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/17 TR O/S
David Staples 09/Apr/17 TR rpt
David Staples 09/Apr/17 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 28/Mar/17 Lead rpt

Finish is wel 'ard.

Martin Bagshaw 20/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Kind of in the dark, Tom completely in the dark, with headtorch. A good day out, May temps in February.

with Tom Hudson
afterthesend ??/2017 Lead RP
brian watson 22/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Mike Hawkins
Dizz 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with AJM
AJM 22/Oct/16 Lead rpt
OllyDewhirst 30/Jul/16 2nd
with Cathy
cathymiller 30/Jul/16 Lead dog
with Olly
dohart 24/Jul/16 Lead

grabbed quickdraw at top but it was a bit misty / wet so dont feel too bad about it.

with herve
Hidden 16/Jul/16 Lead β
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Doug
Jack Shewring 29/May/16 Lead O/S

Really nice route. Felt pretty solid at the grade climbing direct.

cdpuk 07/May/16 Lead β
Nick Russell 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt

Definitely higher quality that its neighbour to the left, and not that much harder (but more sustained). Not sure about the rest on the left that I apparently used last time - there's a hands-free perched just below the crux groove.

with Emily
Emily 28/Feb/16 Lead dog

Dogged to the top first go working out the moves and clips (including some extras and extensions). Found it scary. Surprised to get clean past the undercut and hard slot clip on second attempt, but didn't have a plan for after that. So cold, might have had a third go otherwise.

with Nick
ian d f 10/Jan/16 Lead rpt
onlyfoddington 10/Jan/16 TR dog

I found it quite scary even on a top rope, and the top very sustained.

with Ian
Hidden ??/2016 -
AJM 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Macca_7 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Quite stiff for the warm up but good climbing with a tricky clip of the lower off!

Michael Aylen 15/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Fell first go clipping lower off

with Macca
ConstaBern 04/Jul/15 Lead β
Takacs 24/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
royle883 19/Jun/15 Lead dog

tricky last move took a few tries, great climbing though

BenL 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 03/Apr/15 Lead
Marti999 23/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Debbie
jamie ward 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S

One rest at top - Superb route

with Marcus Harvey
Julie Carroll 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Sep/14 -
with martin broadhurst
bobstones 23/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't figure out the last move, everything else was clean. Traversed on to Fear's Younger Brother to clip the chains.

Shane Willis 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
ConstaBern 06/Jul/14 Lead
tash 06/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
samparsons 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
lewiz 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Pete Dangerous 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
lewiz 22/Sep/13 Lead dog


with Marek Pietrasz
dbrooks 29/Aug/13 Lead dog

rest before last move

Ali 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Alain, Curious Yellow
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jackwd 18/Aug/13 TR O/S

Remove the clips.

dr_botnik 18/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Jack D, Chris Daly-Roy, Justin Reid
bryan61 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

hard to read finishing moves

with ryan
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Clee 24/Jul/13 2nd
with Chris
redjerry 01/Jul/13 TR O/S
Linc ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
rubben 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Marcus O'Leary, Roland O'Leary
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
Rosyk 21/Jun/13 2nd dog
Jay-Ast 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Daniel Wicks 08/Jun/13 Lead
with Howett
Jonathan Emett ?/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with barry, tomski, rupe
Phil Murray 27/May/13 Lead dnf

couldnt make finish moves, lobbed off & DNFed... ewcellent to that point....

with Steve Wright
tomB 25/May/13 Lead dog
with Andy Gardiner
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
mjeffery 07/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ando
Doughnut 05/May/13 TR dog

Great climb!

philhaigh 03/May/13 Lead rpt
with Vicki Hau, Rob Kennard, Natalie Haigh
brices 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Lisa, Gav
SJS 01/Apr/13 2nd
with Nick
Nick Russell 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Nice climbing, I really enjoyed the flowstone bit in the middle. I went left at the tip for a rest before making the last moves. It would be at least a grade harder to go direct.

Dandan82 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Tommyads ??/2013 -
virgil 06/Oct/12 Lead dog

desperate at the top. not helped by my weakness though.

with the gimp
mattgrange 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
LardClimber 16/Sep/12 Lead
DannyK 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Katie
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
RyMole 23/Jun/12 -
with Martin Howson, John Puddephatt
philhaigh 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
freddy25 06/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Simone, Luke, michael
francois 13/May/12 2nd RP

Too tired after a month long lay-off to complete it on lead. Went ok on second.

with Chawn
duncan 13/May/12 Lead rpt
Matt250 08/May/12 Lead dog
james.pilbeam 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
jonleighton 07/Apr/12 Lead dnf
E30Adam 06/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Marti999 02/Mar/12 Lead rpt
pezzerrr 03/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Dec/11 Lead O/S
andrew549 19/Nov/11 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Toby Dunn 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Jonathan Emett 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with toby
will black 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/11 Lead β
dan gibson 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with sam read
patrickc 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Tommy Harris 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead dnf
JPGR 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
jbulger 21/Aug/11 Lead dog

completely missed the hold to clip from and grabbed hold of the draw at the anchor :(

Hidden 21/Aug/11 TR
J5Kay 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan M
Kopinski 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Tim M 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Phil T
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead RP
fildac 01/Jun/11 Lead dog
mlg678 27/May/11 Lead O/S

polished bag of shit!

Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
tom106 19/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 12/May/11 Lead
ekaterina sigida 20/Apr/11 2nd

can't remember it....

with rob daughtery
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JonBrown 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JPGR 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jackappleby 27/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
kenyajc 12/Mar/11 TR
adrian perera 12/Mar/11 2nd
davidliu 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 05/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Paul
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 10/Nov/10 Lead β
with Dougie
Luke Dawson 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
robajob 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead RP
hippo99 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with rache
Jonathan Emett 09/Oct/10 Lead dog


with simon
pete johnson ?/Oct/10 -
with Kevin Sales, Dave Rumney
jon_gill1 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
JWB 25/Sep/10 Lead

Made the lower off and fell when trying to clip.

Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Joe Grondowski 04/Sep/10 Lead
with Andy Grondowski
JHC 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
bigie bob 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 09/Aug/10 Lead
mikeconway 09/Aug/10 Lead β
mikeconway 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Stefan Kruger 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
becster 11/Jul/10 Lead dog

Ran out of steam - not a suprise, boot camp yeaterday!

Kap 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
matthewjames 16/Jun/10 Lead dog
with James Chapman, Fabian Pilgram
J5Kay 15/Jun/10 Lead

no hands rest knee bar

SMc 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
decs 05/Jun/10 AltLd
with Dave Potter
Hidden 05/Jun/10 TR dnf
Chubbard 30/May/10 Lead dog

Pinged off the last move.

with Derek, J Robinson
Don Jebus 19/May/10 Lead O/S
joese7en 19/May/10 Lead O/S
jan.prostrednik 15/May/10 Lead dog
with Runkasova Jana
Will Homoky 09/May/10 Lead dog
with Werenfrid Wimmer
ThomasB ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Bob 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with G. Macauley
La benya 24/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
ian d f 14/Feb/10 Lead dog
clipskipper 17/Oct/09 Lead β
with Mel
tomB 20/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Jody
embob 18/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Arrgh! Still pumped from FYB! Fell at the moves trying to go direct over the roof - my first big lead fall :-) Al finished the route for me.

with Alex
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd β
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead β
michael burrows 12/Sep/09 2nd
tedj234 03/Sep/09 Lead
with Kate Campbell
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Tim M 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Steve W
mynameisjen 17/Aug/09 Lead β
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 26/Jul/09 Lead dog
JonBrown 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Tiff
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 08/Jun/09 Lead dog

Nearly clean, used aid to reach the lower off.

with Clare
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Gingerdarren 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Nice climing until the top, took to the left as the direct looked stupid.

with Wendy Coles
Jus 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Vince 06/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Gareth Chapman
sam_cox 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
robandian ?/Apr/09 2nd
Jon_Warner 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Go left at finish for 6a+, harder otherwise

with Mark Glaister
chris sm 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
Vince 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Nic Hellyer
Ed Babs 15/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Trevor
trev_f 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt

Direct finish this time, better and harder

with Ed
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
jl 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S

got to the lower off but couldn't clip it

with Penny
Hidden 15/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 02/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Harry Martin
dmoir 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
vertigo 18/Oct/08 Lead RP

A certain lack of smarts at the lower off... Nice route.

rhino_bill 18/Oct/08 Lead β
Jonathan Emett 07/Sep/08 Lead dnf
with Mike
andybirtwistle 28/Aug/08 -
with Andy Grondowski
martinazando 23/Aug/08 TR
al99 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 14/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Hidden 27/Jul/08 TR RP
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead rpt 29/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Fine up until the final, direct finish, very not fine for that!

with Dom
Vince 28/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Sonia
Matt Bennett 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Lucy Creamer
onlytovey 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Hannah Williams
HannahW 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Robin Tovey
steve taylor 04/Jun/08 Lead rpt
steve taylor 01/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
trev_f 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Taylor
just one more 05/May/08 Lead
richardr ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
nawface ??/2008 -
jw231 27/Oct/07 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
ecowaller 11/Aug/07 -
with Paula
ecowaller 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paula
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead dog
jl 07/Jul/07 Lead dog
with Penny
pennyb 07/Jul/07 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 20/Jun/07 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jun/07 Lead RP
chris sm 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
steve taylor 14/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Stephen Roberts 06/Apr/07 -
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
JPGR 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
AlexD 11/Mar/07 Lead rpt
thomb ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Harry
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
La Mont ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 19/Nov/06 2nd
Wilbur 05/Aug/06 Lead RP

fell off the top move earlier this year..

with Caine
viking ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with gareth
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Caine
tobydunford 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith, Lisa Paling
Marq 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marq 30/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Owen W-G 18/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Leo & Tony
Hidden ?/Apr/05 -
Robmwatt ??/2005 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead
Jane Weir 21/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 14/Feb/04 Lead
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 15/Sep/03 2nd dog
with Tim Dunsby
goi.ashmore 22/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Lead dog
EllieWoods ?/May/03 TR O/S
with Ian Denton
Hidden ??/2003 -
SR1970 ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
just one more 04/May/02 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 24/Apr/02 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 24/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with dean howard
phardman 29/Mar/02 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 23/Mar/02 -
Mark Stevenson 23/Jan/02 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Aug/01 Lead
with david
shoulders 31/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 26/May/01 -
AlexD 27/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/00 Lead O/S
duncan 21/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
John Southworth ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/99 Lead
sadams 18/Jun/98 Lead
with Andy Long
Hidden 08/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Ben Thorne ??/1998 Lead O/S

Hard last move/clip.

with John Pullin
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 66
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set