The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
A high calibre and pumpy workout up the steep crackline. A quality pitch with varied moves from start to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Nigel Coe, Pete Oxley 31.12.1987. Retrobolted by Matt King 2003..
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Winspit apprenticeship , SW Climbs - Swanage , Winspit Sport Climbs , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Orange Spot Swanage , South Side Sport , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes , Definitive *** Swanage
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gfae | 30 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Fridge sized block broke away between 4th and 5th bolt. Was very close to a fatal accident. Be careful when climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fridge sized block broke away between 4th and 5th bolt. Was very close to a fatal accident. Be careful when climbing. |
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Steve McQueen | 11 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Excellent climbing. Does surpass Stonemason for quality. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent climbing. Does surpass Stonemason for quality. |
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Ben Stokes | 1 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Excellent climbing and surprisingly steep. The move into the groove is great! Thanks to Nigel for permitting the retro job. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent climbing and surprisingly steep. The move into the groove is great! Thanks to Nigel for permitting the retro job. |
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crispygts | 23 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Totally agree with the above, first class route with stylish moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Totally agree with the above, first class route with stylish moves. |
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Alex More | 29 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: This is a great line, the best 6a+ in Swanage no doubt! | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a great line, the best 6a+ in Swanage no doubt! |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)