UKC

300m.

Rockfax Description
The via ferrata on Col dei Bos is sometimes known as Ferrata degi Alpini, after the Italian military from Bolzano who constructed the route in 2007/8. It follows the line of a previous route that was used frequently by the army in the sixties. The route was also something of an experiment to create a 'safe' via ferrata, so is particularly well equipped with short run-outs and rubber caps between cables. It is a relatively long via ferrata but has a short walk in and easy descent. Apart from the initial section, it is considerably easier than its grade may suggest.
Note - Before heading out to do this ferrata, it is worth giving the tourist office or Ristorante Da Strobel a ring to check the route's status - the army usually reclaim the ferrata for two weeks during July, closing it to the general public.

Approach - From Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the SS48 to the west, following signs for the 'Falzarego Pass'. Continue for 8km up the pass until you reach Casa Cantoniera Ra Nona, a large red building on the right-hand side of the road. From here continue a further two hairpins up the road to Ristorante Da Strobel. There is ample parking on both sides of the road. Alternatively, and depending on your chosen descent, continue up to the top of the pass and park at the Lagazuoi cable car.
From Ristorante Da Strobel, Ascend the path behind the restaurant, following dry steam beds, to join path 423, just before the Falzarego Towers.
From the Lagazuoi car park, ascend path 402 and after 50m branch right following a white sign for Ferrata Col dei Bos. Follow the path through shrubs, contouring below the base of the rocks on the right. Shortly after crossing a small bridge, pass underneath the Falzarego Towers to reach the remains of an old military hospital. Continue past the hospital and branch left onto a small path leading up to the base of Col dei Bos.
VF - The first few moves of the via ferrata are by far the hardest, and the taut cable is appreciated on a strenuous and fairly technical vertical crack. Make a short traverse right then continue vertically in the corner before exiting onto a wide and open ramp. Follow the ramp then overcome a short steep wall to reach easier ground. From here you can relax in the knowledge that the worst is behind you. The wire acts as hardly more than a handrail as the route ascends straightfoward ground until reaching another more vertical section, followed by an exposed traverse. The route now continues, alternating between walking and short sections of climbing, with excellent protection throughout. Make a short descent to reach the third and final section of the via ferrata. This section can sometimes be wet but otherwise poses no problems as the holds are excellent. Top out from the wall at the end of the wire and continue walking easily for a few minutes to reach breathtaking views on the summit.
Descent - There are numerous possibilities from the summit. The most direct descent is to follow a path left to reach the saddle between Col dei Bos and the Falzarego Towers, then take the loose and rather unpleasant gully back to the remains of the military hospital. A more civilised option is to descend north from the summit to reach Forcella Col dei Bos, then turn right onto path 402. Follow this to reach a vehicle track then continue on path 412 to cut below the face and return to the start of the route. For those wishing to extend the day, other options are to descend northeast from the summit to reach Forcella Travenanzes, then either descend path 402 back to the Lagazuoi cable car or ascend up the ski piste to reach the top station, then descend the interesting Lagazuoi War Tunnels (headtorch required). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A new VF put up in 2008 by the Italian Military. Currently not marked on most maps. Starts on the arete to the right of the old WW1 field hospital.

It's worth considering the day to climb this VF as Saturdays and Sundays can result in queues of up to 50+ people at the base. The local Alpini (Special army branch) can also take over this VF on certain days stopping public access.

Ticklists: Dolomites Trip.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 30/Sep/18 Lead
john.currie 24/Sep/18 -
atthedropofahat 20/Sep/18 -

Climbed in a couple of hours with lunch on the way. Good fun. We descended via the Galleria di Guerre from Laguzuoi. Good afternoon out.

badgerjockey 20/Sep/18 -

First day of the trip. Great fun and unbelievable views.

with k_k
JohnBotham 19/Sep/18 -
with Mark
Izy 08/Sep/18 -
Hidden 07/Sep/18 Solo O/S
Anita Davis 07/Sep/18 Solo O/S
with Jim Oakley
tiga271 06/Sep/18 -
with Dave
Chris Manasseh 31/Aug/18 -

In the wet. All free.

Hidden 29/Aug/18 Solo
Hidden 29/Aug/18 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/18 Solo O/S
loungerr 12/Aug/18 -

Used Lagazuoi tunnels for descent, a nice day out.

stevethomas 31/Jul/18 -
with Heather
stevethomas 30/Jul/18 -
tsl42 29/Jul/18 Lead O/S

Busy on a Sunday

with Dammage
mikecollins 23/Jul/18 -

With Joey and Joe - their first VF

hazeysunshine 16/Jul/18 -
with Jan R
alex toomey 15/Jul/18 -
steveg 12/Jul/18 Solo rpt
with Tracy , Milena
Hidden 11/Jul/18 -
Tree-normas 08/Jul/18 -
MikePeck88 08/Jul/18 -
Aisdroid 08/Jul/18 -
Lotti 14/Jun/18 -
Emmatravers 14/Jun/18 -
with Lotti
Oscar Popels 12/Jun/18 AltLd
jussiupn 12/Jun/18 -

Pois viimeisestä exitistä, poistumisreitillä oli lunta

with Paavo Kuosmanen
Goodstuff 12/Jun/18 AltLd

My first via ferrata! Great fun, stunning cloud inversions, and the views from the summit of Col dei Bos are the most beautiful I've ever seen. High point of the trip for me.

jh1990 06/Jun/18 Lead O/S
AJWolfie 06/Jun/18 Solo
with jh1990
betathief 13/Oct/17 -
Jessicacrump 13/Oct/17 -
funkyvin1 14/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Rock only, no wire or metalwork pulling. The polish made some of the moves a bit interesting in big boots though. Polish aside, it was a great route!

steveb2006 13/Sep/17 -
with Paul E
Karlos 12/Sep/17 Solo
bummingham 12/Sep/17 Solo rpt

Repeat. stuck inside because of solid day of rain in Cortina. Started the route at 4.45pm, first ascent after fresh snow in Falzarego Pass. Start was tough, after that it became plain good fun, laying fresh tracks while the sun sets, amazing views. Headed towards cable car and dropped down 402 & piste to car park. got back just as it turned dark.

with Karlos
five 06/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with ALA
Hidden 04/Sep/17 Lead O/S
mcneilljamie 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S
EllieCotterill 22/Aug/17 -
alisonlea75 13/Aug/17 Solo
Hidden 13/Aug/17 -
Theeni 03/Aug/17 Lead O/S
LittleJoRocks 03/Aug/17 2nd
with Theeni
Hidden ?/Aug/17 -
mikecollins 30/Jul/17 -
Lauradavies23 30/Jul/17 -
jussiupn 30/Jul/17 -

Nice climbing again. Took more time than last year, but resting and looking around a bit more

with Harry Halonen, Paavo Kuosmanen
jpksalmon 21/Jul/17 -

Amazing day out!

with Paul1
Paul1 21/Jul/17 -
Hidden 16/Jul/17 -
Hidden 16/Jul/17 -
Hidden 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S
KiranV 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Did this with a polish freind who I met at the bottom and who was super nervous. Really fun climb. Incredible view from top out. Absolutly loved my first Via Ferrata

Hidden ?/Jul/17 -
Hidden ?/Jul/17 -
cdpuk 29/Jun/17 -

On the route for 2h. Had it to ourselves again; is it just the brits that go out if rain is threatening? Steep start but just gets easier. Dry during the ascent then rained at the top. Got persuaded to carry on up to the lift station for a coffee and to descend via the tunnels. Took quite a direct route along the top via the left path in very low visibility. Took maybe 1h to walk over and ascend the ski piste via some interesting WW1 lookouts.

with KLucy
steveg 15/Jun/17 Solo O/S
duncanedgley 14/Jun/17 -
JonoDHawkins 14/Jun/17 -
Ashley King 14/Jun/17 -

Lovely climb, first VF out in the Dolomites. Beginning was the hardest and everything after was very enjoyable

adawson 14/Jun/17 -
bummingham 27/May/17 Solo O/S

Good fun.

with Naomi Walker, Louise Bullock, Stewart Moodie, Julie Taylor, Vic Cox, Karlos, TomGB
TomGB 27/May/17 Solo O/S

Lovely juggy climbing higher up, bit more strenuous lower down with some wire hauling.

with Karlos, Julie Taylor, Stewart Moody, bummingham
Louise Bullock 27/May/17 -
with Julie Taylor, Karlos, Stewart Moody, Vicki Cox, Naomi Walker, bummingham
Karlos 27/May/17 Solo

Great steep route, long and fairly continuous. Short walk in, but the walk out (medium gradient to the south) proved hard work in the heat.

with Adam B, Muffin
cfisher4 09/Oct/16 -
with Sebastian Pourrat
Hidden 08/Oct/16 2nd
steveleahy 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
benclimbing 03/Oct/16 -
with Cat Dick
howsthebeef 19/Sep/16 -
with T. Nixon, M. Moore, T. Robinson
Hidden 05/Sep/16 -
TommyKips 30/Aug/16 -
Phil Anderson 24/Aug/16 -

Didn't start until gone 5pm Took escape route down the gully about 3/4 height to avoid coming down in the dark.

SophieWalker 23/Aug/16 2nd
Michael Bonallie 23/Aug/16 Lead
with Tom Ormerod, Jesus Jimenez, Iain Slinn, Aj Zein, SophieWalker, Emma Bryning
dpovey 22/Aug/16 -
with Jessie, Katie Smith
Hidden 19/Aug/16 -
Hidden 17/Aug/16 -
edjenkins 17/Aug/16 -

Really nice route, start was slightly marred by queuing behind an Italian father shouting at his crying son to climb, stop crying and go quicker when the exposure was too much for the little guy

with helen.baldwin, Chris Bunce
AndrewP 13/Aug/16 -

Went up this with the crowds and then descended the tunnels on Lagazuoi - great day out. Climbing was quite hard for VF3 but very safe.

JonnoP 07/Aug/16 -
with Rachel F, Emily
Tmgreenfield ?/Aug/16 -
with Alex, Jenny
jussiupn 24/Jul/16 -

This time with no troubles. The first section is the hardest and no problems with that either. This is very nice to climb. Almost everywhere you can have nice holds with other hand, as the other one holds the cable. We did it in 3,5 hours including some time in the summit. Junde needed to wait for me few times. Would do in the future another time.

with Junde
Oo 23/Jul/16 -
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 23/Jul/16 -
ashsleight 19/Jul/16 Lead

Lead 4 Army

Nono 14/Jul/16 Solo
fuzzysheep01 14/Jul/16 Solo O/S

Fresh snow meant a lot of people were on this today. Managed to dodge / overtake the worst of it though. Some good stuff - wire-protected rock climbing up high. A bit scrappy lower down but fairly enjoyable nevertheless. Worth doing if you've nothing better to do!

with Nono
dhavenhand 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Weezles 07/Jul/16 -

With Roman from Alta Badia guides. First via ferrata.

with Diye
benny_m 05/Jul/16 Solo O/S

Went up about half 1 in the afternoon, nobody else anywhere to be seen. Saw massive crowds of people when we climbed Comici Arete 20-30 people at a time gearing up at the old field hospital or queuing at the base of the route, avoid at weekends

Hidden 05/Jul/16 Solo O/S
grayscottage 01/Jul/16 -
Hidden 27/Jun/16 -
ChrisH.19 24/Jun/16 -
Hidden 07/Oct/15 -
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/15 -
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/15 -
Hidden 03/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/15 -
Hidden 03/Sep/15 -
ophillips 02/Sep/15 -
Hidden 02/Sep/15 -
Penygraig ?/Sep/15 -
with Gwyn4
kirky_p 30/Aug/15 -
IJHunt 26/Aug/15 Solo O/S
with Fiona
Rachel Slater 25/Aug/15 -
tim newton 25/Aug/15 -
Martin Bennett 11/Aug/15 -

Happy 70th birthday to me!! A great afternoon following a picnic lunch and with beers in the sun to finish. Bliss. Incidentally - note to database compiler - this is actually called "VF Degli Alpina"

with Magi, Paul Webb, Laura
Tim Harper 07/Aug/15 Solo O/S
yossarian714 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ali macphee 13/Jul/15 Solo
with Hilary
kieraneason 05/Jul/15 -
John Foster 26/Jun/15 -
Juan S 21/Jun/15 -

Superb VF. Can climb on rock without using the cable pretty much all the time - very enjoyable. Great views from the top. Glad we carried walking sticks for the descent.

with Wei
timmyhobby 17/Jun/15 -
purplemushroom 28/Sep/14 -
LauraChilterns 26/Sep/14 -

Superb route. All of the various descriptions regarding the 'filter' at the start are true. There are a couple moves that are not typical of the grade...but fun.

Charlie Low 11/Sep/14 -
with Sue Low
Sean Martin 11/Sep/14 -
Hidden 10/Sep/14 -
Celia Watson 10/Sep/14 -
JulianD 09/Sep/14 Solo

Good new route, with nice wandering descent down behind

with Paul B, David H
Simon Pelly 07/Sep/14 -
Oujmik ?/Sep/14 -

Nice route, tricky start but much easier thereafter and possible to climb on rock rather than use the cable/aid which adds to the enjoyment.

with Jyoti
Nick Bailey 28/Aug/14 -
hazeysunshine 17/Aug/14 -
with Sharon, Cristina
Hidden 01/Aug/14 -
Hidden 01/Aug/14 -
wjcdean 07/Jul/14 -

First vf3b. Mostly easy, couple of trickyish moves. Continued up to the summit and then down the gully. Dropped Adams camera. Oopsy.

Trevers 07/Jul/14 -

Fun via feratta, cables are safe as houses but a lot of loose rock. Awesome views from the top.

BStar 07/Jul/14 -

Excellent VF, probably one of my favourites in the area. Pumpy first section then it eases off.

kb273 25/Jun/14 -
Hidden 23/Sep/13 -
Hidden 18/Sep/13 -
meinecke 14/Sep/13 -
Giles Eperon 14/Sep/13 -
Alex Eperon 14/Sep/13 -
Hidden 09/Sep/13 -
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Marq 28/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/13 -
Roger Cruse 23/Aug/13 Solo O/S
with Kris
Ian Miller 08/Aug/13 -
Cheese Monkey 08/Aug/13 -
Hidden 24/Jul/13 -
jhobbs 03/Jul/13 -
with Harvdog
Harvdog 03/Jul/13 -
with jhobbs
Pompey 27/Sep/12 -
with JP
JonnoP 27/Sep/12 -
with Pompey
chri55ie 09/Sep/12 -
mike_hough_uk 09/Sep/12 -
Kelly Smith 06/Sep/12 -
dpiddock 06/Sep/12 Solo O/S
MariaT 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Kelly Smith, mapkyca, dpiddock, David Walker
David Walker 06/Sep/12 Solo O/S
lucyh 05/Sep/12 -

Much better climbing; no wire pulling. Great traverse halfway up

Monkey_Alan 04/Sep/12 -
with Simon Blanchflower
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
JamesRich 03/Aug/12 -
with Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich
zoeimogen 02/Aug/12 -
Hidden 23/Jul/12 -
jhobbs 16/Jul/12 -
tmelrose 16/Jul/12 Solo
with jhobbs
Sankey 13/Jul/12 -

With DMC

MikeDowsett 13/Jul/12 Solo

Done with Jon, Eddie, Steve, John, Ruth, and John

jshields 13/Jul/12 Solo

Done with Steve, Ed, Jon, Mike, Ruth & John.

Hidden 11/Jul/12 Solo
dancurrie ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
danieleaston ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
HannahFrancis 27/Jun/12 -
Hidden 27/Jun/12 -
Moby Copperfield 26/Jun/12 -

First VF3B I've done! We had to queue behind a large group of soldiers. Thankfully they exited down a gully before the final section of climbing.

Neil Metcalfe101 03/Jun/12 -
with Andy Beal, Lesley Beal, Loraine Rowan, Andy Odger
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden 21/Sep/11 -
Chuck 14/Sep/11 -
with Carrie Craig
Hidden 04/Sep/11 -
IamAJMiller 16/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Done again with a party of 22!! Long day on the wire but much easier now I'd got the hang of moving over VF terrain.

with rch3l
IamAJMiller 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S

First VF, tricky start but that's 'cause I wasn't used to clipping. Once I got the hang of it we bashed out the route in 1hr 20mins. A cracking route, brilliant!

with rch3l
sarahlizzy 27/Jul/11 -

Stunningly well built, new VF. State of the art protection and some nice climbing. Very highly recommended.

with syv_k
liabilityliz 22/Jul/11 Lead
with Brian Evans
AndyMcCoy 19/Jul/11 -
Hidden 16/Jul/11 -
Mike-W-99 14/Jul/11 -

Thought the start quite hard for the grade. Great views.

Fiona Reid 14/Jul/11 -

Very well protected but some pretty stiff moves for 3B. The descent path down the gully is pretty unpleasant but the approaching weather encouraged us to go for the quick way down.

Griff87 ?/Jul/11 -
syv_k ?/Jul/11 -

Similar difficulty to VF Sandro Pertini, which is graded 4B.

clipskipper 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Good route throughout, though climbed past the corners section and climbed a face with many friable holds and not much gear to rejoin the route at the top of pitch 5. Drop your sac for the penultimate squeeze. Can be done with the bag on, but it's physical!

with Davey Boy
rch3l ?/May/11 -

Done many times

Hidden 24/Jun/10 -
Hidden 27/Aug/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 -
monkeytennis ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 -
CathS 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A really good route.

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Votes cast 23
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
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