18m.

Rockfax Description
A finger-stamina test of the highest calibre. Move up the pocketed lower wall. Then, from a small finger-ledge, make some tricky moves up to a shallow groove in the final section of the rib. Make a couple of blind moves to reach the horizontal break. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 10/May/1989

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland.


ClimberDateStyle
Linc 17/Sep Lead RP
with Kay
Ian Bell 19/Aug Lead dog

3 goes. Got all the moves ok enough but been eating too many cakes to do in a oner

Linc 11/Aug Lead dog
with Kay
afrosam 15/Jul Lead rpt
with Rowan, simonpearson
Rock to Fakey 05/Jul TR dog

Now i know the crux's are higher! Still, b3 to 4 tough, left beta 4 me, and left of b4-5 too, right beta near crux's of b5 - 6..horrible doing any way + getting the polished break! Very sunny, not scorching but hot enough, met says feels like 20°, but really feels like 25-30, not good conditions for me. Can do this tho, maybe around September....

Vespa63 05/Jul Lead dog

Took a loooong time to work out the beta, then forgot on 1st RP attempt. Figured out again, then to tired on next RP. Will go as long as beta remembered.

with Rich
Dandan82 25/Jun Lead O/S
RFWilkie 17/Jun Lead dog

All the moves, should go next time.

Thinker01 17/Jun Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Jun Lead dog
Rock to Fakey 04/Jun TR dnf

Had a play last thing as Paul had been working it... (nr the 1st bolt, out right, a hold that became a detached large piece of rock, came away, luckily i had just decided to step in so as not to stress the first bolt, it split into 2 large dinner plate sizes, with very sharp edges, and smaller pieces, which all seemed to miss me, as if i was surrounded by a magic forcefield. Proud to say i had my helmet on too anyway. But had any hit me, possible broken collar bone, badly gashed skull (without helmet) , face, knee / ankle / foot etc! Bloomin lucky.... rpt to readers. .. GLAD I WAS WEARING A HELMET, it's well worth getting one :) ) Managed all the moves to bolt 2. Steep, sustained, gets more fingery. Then explored bolt 2 to 3 on lead, and could do it, but took no gear, so enjoyed a couple of practice falls! Love to come back now.... Sounds like the bulge into EF brk. could b crux, (+ u could then do a variant + go left to do EF direct finish ( a mid 6c+ finish by votes on that route)) , From comments below... 2nd clip hard, 1st crux 3rd clip, 4th clip mini crux, real crux at 5th clip.

tobydunford 27/May Lead RP
with Oli
TomJ 27/May Lead RP

Good to get another classic Portland 7a+ done! 3*s for sure

Sam4242 22/May Lead RP

1st go of the day. Psyched to of done this route!

dohart 22/May Lead dog
with Marcus oleary
dohart 18/May Lead dog
with Marcus oleary
helkay 14/May TR O/S

Great route, intense, powerful and fingery. Easy to set up as top rope with the brilliant 6a+ Evening Falls right next to it leading to the same anchor. Too late in the day to attempt it lead, but pleased to tick it off as a top-rope and will be back!

dohart 08/May TR dog
with Marcus oleary
dohart 04/May TR dog
with Marcus oleary
Hidden ?/May -
Hidden 29/Apr Lead RP
samparsons 29/Apr Lead β

Great climb suits me to the ground.

dohart 13/Apr TR dog
with Marcus oleary
ella.thorne5 09/Apr Lead dog
Matti Puckridge 02/Apr Lead RP
with Rachel
rachelvlc 01/Apr Lead
Hidden ?/Apr -
ihugrocks ??/2017 -
brian watson 26/Nov/16 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 26/Nov/16 Lead RP
with Brian
partz 09/Oct/16 TR RP

Too tired to try it on lead, but very good climbing! Used a heel to help with the top move

JackMac 02/Oct/16 Lead RP

Pleased to finish off a nemesis route from last year. Perhaps fingerboarding helped...

with Nikki_C
Hidden 30/Sep/16 Lead RP
john rensten 08/Sep/16 Lead RP
with ellie
Ash Sayers 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah
jsmcfarland 10/Aug/16 Lead dog

Brilliant climb. Could do it in 3 sections, but the bouldery middle 1/3 was too hard for me to want to try doing the whole thing. Fantastic climbing though, will be back when I have stronger fingers. There is a great sequence through the bulge at the top using a ridiculously sharp dimple for the right hand for most of the way

with Tim
tim.fairhall 10/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Sachi
Tomas P 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
TomJ 10/Jul/16 Lead dog

May just be a bit anti-style (finger intensive climbing) but felt top of top-end 7a+. It is a really decent route though, and well worth seeking out.

afrosam 10/Jul/16 Lead β
with k_k, TomJ
roryferris 07/May/16 2nd
with Sam4242
Sam4242 07/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Kipper-Phil Smith 21/Mar/16 Lead RP
with Shaun
ian d f 21/Feb/16 Lead dog

Will need to come back fresher

Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead dog
BenL 13/Oct/15 Lead β
with Andrea
Gloria 29/Aug/15 TR dnf

Lost a load of skin

with Tim Beeston
AlexD 22/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Jane Weir, Mike
BC 16/Aug/15 Lead RP

Found this hard. It's a really good route though.

Rockmonkey1977 08/Aug/15 Lead dog

Wasn't particularly inspired by this route and it ate my skin... Maybe i'm missing something but the moves didn't seem that great, far preferred England's Dreaming at Blacknor North. Think i'd just about put it together but won't be rushing back to get it clean.

Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead
Alex Handley 01/Aug/15 2nd RP

Jumped on between Merlin's attempts and managed to do in a oners. First hard route since shoulder injury.

etrillaud 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
artmal ?/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Lewis
lewiz 30/May/15 -

No memory of this! Sent first try, very happy.

with Radek
JackMac 28/May/15 Lead dog

Lost all finger strength working out the moves. A great route - will hopefully go another day when fresh.

Nick Russell 10/May/15 Lead dog

A decent flash attempt ended in a slump onto bolt 4 and left me pretty ruined. Got higher on the second RP but not enough juice.

tobydunford 22/Mar/15 TR rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead RP
AlexD 20/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Mike, Phil, Nat, Ed, Ian
mark20 08/Sep/14 Lead β

Think I fell off this a couple of years ago

nathanlee 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Not that great!

with DWS Crew
Hidden 20/Jul/14 TR dog
lewiz 08/Jun/14 Lead dog

Nice moves but then it rained.

Hidden ?/Jun/14 TR
RadekNowak 31/May/14 Lead RP

Great rout!!!

clmacdonald ??/2014 2nd
tskelhon ??/2014 Lead dog

Sweet route, need to come back and dispatch

xiangoh ??/2014 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Oct/13 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 25/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead dog
Nick Clement 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jul/13 Lead dog
Marcus 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
wi11 21/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd go

thomasmouse 21/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Nat
natalietanzer 21/Jun/13 Lead β
with tom, will
DJ Nelson 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
adam 24 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
tobydunford 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Kirsty Kerr
Laurence Everitt 05/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/13 TR dog
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 18/May/13 Lead RP
with Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge
philhaigh 16/May/13 Lead dog
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 06/May/13 2nd dog
with Vicki Hau, Rob Kennard, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 05/May/13 2nd dog
with Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead dnf
drcorbasisgod 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Tess Lyons
Viki Claudia Harvey 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Rachel Keys
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Mar/13 TR O/S
Kopinski ?/Mar/13 Lead RP
Jobbo 22/Feb/13 Lead RP
with Alex
Danny_boulders ?/Feb/13 TR
with Robin O'Leary
Tommyads ??/2013 -
philhaigh 30/Oct/12 2nd dog
Adam Booth 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt

1st RP. Amazing little pitch!

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Haydn Jones 09/Sep/12 Lead RP

2nd try

with pep
Twisty 08/Sep/12 Lead RP

2nd redpoint attempt. Nice sequency route. Missed small pocket intermediate pocket out right at low down crux. This allows you to get your feet up and ready for the larger pockets.

with Greg Slee
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt
burto 17/Jun/12 Lead RP
with steve
philhaigh 14/Jun/12 2nd dog
Jeronimo 25/May/12 Lead O/S
yarrow 20/May/12 Lead dog
with Mark C
Jonathan Emett 12/May/12 Lead dog
with ed
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead RP
Garrouli 15/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Ioanna
Tom Heslam 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Si Brice
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/Mar/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Tough

with Rob
Tophe 15/Jan/12 Lead rpt
rustaldo 14/Jan/12 Lead dog

Worked over 2days, didn't manage a clean RP. A bit too hard and a bit too tired on the second day. Good route, found it hard to read at first. One stiff pull/crimp on the edge of a pocket quite low down around 2nd bolt, then very sustained to the top with some blind-ish moves.

with Jimmy, Hannah
pezzerrr 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Perryman 20/Nov/11 Lead

second attempt with finger injury- great climb.

tom106 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt

retro flash

Ian Bell 01/Oct/11 Lead dog

A couple of lead / TR attempts to figure out the RP. Hard and very hot. Only one sequence left to figure out.

with Noah Haber
givemetea 16/Sep/11 TR dog

One go on top rope and got all the moves. No energy to finish the red point. Great route.

Alex Mason 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route, sustained cranking to a slight ease in angle then a crux leading to a juggy romp.

with Dan Gibson
Toby Dunn 03/Sep/11 Lead
with Lyndsay Hilton
jfreeman 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 12/Aug/11 Lead dog

Stupidly missed the good pocket at the crux

Mike_Hayes 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Jonathan Emett 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

11th attempt overall.

with darryl, bern
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Jonathan Emett 18/Jun/11 Lead dog

3 gos. failing earlier; windy?

with bongo
J5Kay 16/Jun/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 16/Jun/11 Lead dog

1st lead attempt, failed with my hands on the top break(?!) 2nd attempt, everything went wrong, so packed up and went home. :-(

Jonathan Emett 14/Jun/11 TR RP

3 TR attempts, 3rd time clean.

Jonathan Emett 11/Jun/11 TR dog

1 go, several rests, got all the moves.

with dave
Pippa 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 01/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead dog
RFWilkie 25/Apr/11 TR dnf

Had a quick go at this as rope was already on the lower-off after doing evening falls.

tom106 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

brilliant climb, sustained

with ben, robin
Robin Head 02/Apr/11 TR dnf
with Tom Maidwell
Hidden 21/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead RP
ardzeiem 19/Mar/11 TR dnf

x.0.0

with Tania
tania 19/Mar/11 TR dnf
Kevster 13/Mar/11 Lead RP

2nd try

Tomar 06/Mar/11 Lead dog

A tough(ish) move at the bottom then just go go go. Will train for power endurance and come back for it.

PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd dog
i_a_coops 10/Oct/10 Lead RP
with Mark, Jacob
La benya 09/Oct/10 Lead RP

kinda flash today, tried it ages ago when the heat made it impossible. this climb isnt polished, but if there is any sun/ heat the rock sweats loads. awesome when its right tho!

Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
JPGR 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Hidden 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead RP
Peterjuliandawson 03/Jun/10 Lead RP
Daniel Wicks 02/Jun/10 Lead RP
Ed Babs 05/May/10 Lead RP
with Harry
Pete Scott 20/Apr/10 Lead RP

sweet climb, 2 topped rope assents then the lead. didnt feel too pumped.

billb ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Lee
Hidden 12/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ian Ash 31/Oct/09 Lead RP
ben hargreaves 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S

with Cat. Top climb.

ilikemonkys 06/Sep/09 TR RP
mynameisjen 26/Aug/09 Lead RP

2nd 7a+. pumpy, but in a good way. found move at the 2nd clip particularly hard. maybe had the sequence wrong... both hands on crimpy rail to this left hand hold made from a fossil. crux is at the 5th clip on the bulge, but fine when you get the sequence.

Tim M 22/Aug/09 Lead RP

Dogged first time, but ok once you know where the hold are. Polished 7a climbs, unthinkable when I were a lad...

chris sm 22/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Pippa Froggatt
dan gibson 12/Aug/09 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead dog
Morgan Woods 05/Jul/09 Lead RP

Excellent power endurance route. No real rests and some quite intricate sequences. Tough first crux clipping 3rd bolt then a mini crux after the 4th followed by a long move to finish.

with Vinnie
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
sparkass 03/May/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 14/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Harry
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Mar/09 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 28/Feb/09 Lead RP

dogged first time to put clips in, cleaned second. 5/5

with Mark Tomlinson
nealh ??/2009 Lead
ASchwirtz 02/Aug/08 Lead dog

1 fall

tedj234 19/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Nicolas Rabb
Hidden 06/Jul/08 Lead dog
schof 24/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
ksjs 23/Jun/08 Lead dog

dont know if it was the sun or level of difficulty but this felt hard at grade. sustained and quit thin. a tricky onsight unless youre climbing well above the grade? great climbing though, recommended

dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with andy elliot
dmoir 18/May/08 Lead RP
with Ivan M
feilx 17/May/08 Lead RP
with Heather
hippo99 24/Jul/07 Lead RP

hardest climb to date

Hidden 14/Jun/07 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 21/May/07 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
david potts 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Nat
Hidden 25/Mar/07 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Richard Horn 07/Oct/06 Lead RP
bigie bob 01/Oct/06 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 18/Jul/06 Lead RP
with Alex Barrows
Hidden 18/Jul/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead RP
with Floris
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Nathan Kemp ?/Oct/05 -

sport

Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
eddieclimb 26/Oct/02 Lead RP

Repeated 2009 with Beccy, Good steady crimping with an important blind pocket around arete...

with Jason Parker, Rebecca Edwards
lx ?/Jun/02 Lead

flash

with james
Adam Lincoln ??/2001 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
John Southworth ?/Jun/99 Lead RP
innes ??/1999 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/1999 Lead dnf

Been on it multiple times over the decades. When it's not greasy on the crux I've come close but been spat off by lack of endurance. Really class climbing though.

with John Pullin
sadams 24/Jul/98 2nd
with Andy Long
Steve Crowe 19/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with KM
buzby78 15/May/97 Lead RP
phardman 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Dave Pickford
Roget 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
36 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 72
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set