Rockfax Description
Surprisingly varied climbing which requires an eye for route finding. Start left of the first bolt, then move up and traverse rightwards before stepping back left to the shallow corner above. Climb the corner to a horizontal break where a long move gains the next break and a lower-off on the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Lyndsay Superclimber 01/Sep Lead rpt
Ian Bell 19/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug Lead RP
Linc 11/Aug Lead O/S
with Kay
StrongDan 06/Aug -
adamsriches 06/Aug Lead β
with Elodie
Hidden 05/Aug Lead O/S
RangerMcFreindly 05/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul Lead β
Hidden 13/Jul Lead RP
Steph Roberts 25/Jun 2nd
with Sam
ssutton 25/Jun Lead

Nice route

with Stu
Dandan82 25/Jun Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25/Jun Lead rpt
with Steph
Carnie Lisa 25/Jun 2nd β
with Dan Verge
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Jun Lead O/S
with Callum, Rich Fox
ben1234 14/Jun Lead dog
with Mike Gubbins
Lessworkmoreclimbing 10/Jun -
with Kev
Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
Rock to Fakey 04/Jun Lead O/S

Phew blimey, i nearly joined marj... Challenging for the grade, at the top 2 breaks, 1st is bit greasy + polished, i considered straight up to 2nd brk, but instead started an awkward feeling leftwards traverse, and whilst clipping the next bolt there was just manageable but reachy, i was pumping out fast in an awkward position on jams in the break, + fumbled the clip, a bit panicky, but got it, then ok to next break, which is relievingly crozzly + positive. On stripping it, i tried a more straight up version between the top 2 brks, bit crimpier, might feel more fluttery, but overall less strenuous if you do that? Reach good +ve jugs quicker, and then quickly traverse to rest, but more like mid 6a + either way ?

artmal 21/May Lead rpt
with Anna
helkay 14/May Lead O/S

Take your time to find the right path

Rupey 10/May Lead rpt
Laurence Everitt 29/Apr Lead O/S
with Tamsyn Street
Hidden 29/Apr TR rpt
luke glaister 14/Apr Lead O/S
with Gri gri Gregg , Ed Atkinson , Matt, RobinJones, Jimmysmith1577
dohart 13/Apr Lead rpt

Warm up for victims of fashion

with Marcus oleary
Hidden 02/Apr Lead O/S
rachelvlc 01/Apr Lead
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd
Roland stopps 25/Mar Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with Brian
Matt Smith 25/Oct/16 Lead dog

*insert lame excuse here* grease mumble mumble.... tired grumble grumble.... Reach was perplexing

Hidden 02/Oct/16 2nd dnf
Dugster 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Zoe V
JackMac 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Hard for 6a.

with Nikki_C
Owen Davies ?/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/16 Lead RP
Matti Puckridge 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 29/Aug/16 Lead
with Widdaz
Widda 29/Aug/16 TR dog

stupid girl arms couldn't get me past the second bolt. I'm a let down to my parents :( 1 fall on the crimpy bit - should go with fresh fingers

oodie72 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt
jsmcfarland 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Tim
tim.fairhall 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sachi
julesmckim 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

great route, with quite an intricate and bold start

with Mickie Streule, Rob Smart
dohart 08/Aug/16 Lead
with herve
Tomas P 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
The Ivanator 07/Aug/16 Lead dog

Not in the zone for this one, hard for 6a.

with Alan
hervenuttall ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Doug
Amy Horton 30/Jul/16 Lead
ThomasB 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Wood for Trees 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Flo Barton
etrillaud 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Paul Hicks 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
Trippinjester 04/Jun/16 TR RP
Adam Perrett 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
with John Leonard, Andy Dunford, Simon Fowler, Mick Ward, Paulus122, Sarah Perrett
ElArt 13/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/May/16 -
Giles Davis 07/May/16 Lead RP
bryan61 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt

this route is well worth doing

ChristyCole 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
jamesb101 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Roger
The Screaming Finn 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with CarlWH
RKirke 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Bevan
Carl 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Rob S
brian watson 09/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Steve Newman
Hidden 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S
ian d f 21/Feb/16 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 21/Feb/16 Lead G/U

Ian found an easier and less scary way through the upper bulge, which I duly utilised.

with Ian
emmafizzle ??/2016 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
Yinners 10/Oct/15 Lead dog
with David
onlyfoddington 10/Oct/15 Lead dog

1st attempt I fell when I snapped off a crimp. Took a lot of convincing and several rests moving between breaks near the top.

with Yin
philhaigh 30/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Gem Minihan 30/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Jul/15 TR O/S
SDM 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Michael
chris sm 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Damien ?
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
NikkiClimbaCrag 05/Jul/15 Lead dog

Couldn't reach the lower off

with Rob
Robheirene 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Really polished and greasy - may have deserved 2 stars previously, but not now. Also, the lower off is really hard to reach for the short so worth avoiding if this fits your description!

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hugobristol 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Liam
lewiz 30/May/15 -

Nice moves.

with Radek
David Staples 20/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/15 Lead O/S
Sam4242 17/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/15 TR dog
Alex the Alex 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Clipped then grabbed the top draw. really polished crimps to finish.

with Mofire Crewdem
sam_craddock 04/May/15 Lead β
with Phil Belcher
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Sep/14 -
with martin broadhurst
NielsC 16/Aug/14 Lead
piska 13/Aug/14 2nd dnf
with Jon Casado, Natalie Haigh, Phil Haigh
alaster tonge 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Assad Lahlou
TomJ 15/Jun/14 Lead β
with TomS, Charlotte, Jon_Warner, Jenni
Jon_Warner 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, felt 6a+.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni
ConstaBern 07/Jun/14 Lead
Jack93 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 05/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
RadekNowak 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Hard section to first bolt.

Hidden 25/May/14 TR dog
martin one 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Markus
Hidden 06/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Wayne.Gaudin 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Marcus
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 18/Sep/13 Lead RP
khalidq 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Marti999 19/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Debbie
Nick Clement 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
gemmaT 11/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Oddjob 10/Aug/13 Lead β
with Rol
tsyrett 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Phil1587 ?/Aug/13 2nd
mop449 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Gaiane de Brabanter
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead β
chriswood 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jay-Ast 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 19/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Luke Castiglio
surfer38 18/May/13 Lead dog

Will come back and try to get this one clean

Cat Hendrie 06/May/13 -
AlexRenshaw 06/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead β
Rokmunky 05/May/13 Lead O/S
nataliehaigh 05/May/13 2nd dog
philhaigh 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
gibsond 27/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
SamStokes 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
oodie72 30/Mar/13 Lead dog
catt 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
georgel 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with vinnie
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
nblackbeard 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Struggled on this, but I think that was largely due to the cold weather. The first bolt is a 'tad' high too.

dan gibson 19/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jonleighton 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Vince 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead β
tobydunford 28/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Brian H 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
Hidden 18/Aug/12 TR
redjerry 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Danny
Hidden 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
brices 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Gav
Matt77 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
nataliehaigh 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Rob Kennard, Terry Finlay, Eddy Young, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Phil Haigh
popov86 12/May/12 Lead
philhaigh 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Tom Gale 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Keiha
Macca_7 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Much easier than LDSH simple straight forward climbing would make a nice warm up route

andyob 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Calder, jonny, Diggler
Calder 25/Mar/12 2nd
with Johnny
Diggler 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with andyob
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Sean
tradguy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
burto 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with steve, hertha
natalietanzer 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with marcus
odox 27/Sep/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 27/Sep/11 Lead

Nice climbing but suffering from traffic.

Dandan82 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
Brian H 28/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Rik
Hidden 19/Aug/11 TR rpt
Gareth Bowen 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Aleksandr
jbulger 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
J5Kay 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
LeahJamie 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

high first bolt... freaky for the first climb of the day

with Aidan Taub
gibsond 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 09/Jul/11 2nd
with darrel
lozowen 07/Jul/11 Lead
with J T
duncan 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/11 TR β
J5Kay 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
fildac 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Saurus ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Kyle F 10/May/11 Lead O/S
with Keiha D
KDhruev 10/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Cousins
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
waynem1985 25/Apr/11 Lead dog
hotfeet 25/Apr/11 -

one fall, a little greasy in places

Alison2 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Oddjob 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
JenDurden 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Bad fall

with Paddy
mrstarwarsman 02/Apr/11 Lead
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
el_monty 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Si
Paul Eckton 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with steve read
Martin Brierley 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead β
robajob 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tobydunford 05/Mar/11 Lead rpt
mlg678 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 21/Nov/10 -
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead RP
Barry Kerslake 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Magnus
Rupey 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with sam and helen
Jonathan Emett 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
with steve powell
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
eugeneth 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Will_Maxwell 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
bbrowne 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Kelly Atkin
Phil Murray 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led in 1996 but seems to be 6a+ now and first clip scary. Consider it to be an onsight!

with Steve Wright
mattparratt 05/Jun/10 Lead
Peterjuliandawson 03/Jun/10 Lead β
Daniel Wicks 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 25/May/10 Lead RP
with Andy
J5Kay 14/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 01/May/10 TR rpt
el_Claudio 01/May/10 TR O/S
trev_f 13/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Ceridwen 07/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Ivan
chris sm 30/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Ian Butterworth
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
jld579 ??/2010 Lead
Sophie Nunn 27/Dec/09 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Ian JL 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
eddie coughlin 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with pete skinsley
Vince 31/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with John Percy
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead rpt
hippo99 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with rache, joe
Luke Marsden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
Chris Sansum 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Gary Lewin
barni 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Northern
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Darragh ?/May/09 -
with Hanna & Pat
Hidden 22/Apr/09 TR rpt
JimR 13/Apr/09 -
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead
briar4012 12/Apr/09 TR RP
with Michael
embob 12/Apr/09 2nd
with Alex
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd dnf
MarkRyder 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
Ben Harper 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
andy jennings 21/Mar/09 TR O/S
trev_f 20/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Harry
Ed Babs 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
bigbobbyking 24/Oct/08 Lead
with Mark Tomlinson
Hidden 19/Sep/08 TR β
bigie bob 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S

probably climbed it in the 1990s but considering it an onsight nonetheless. :-)

with Matt, Joe
Matt Bennett 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
BobbyH 12/Jul/08 Lead dog
with NI
trev_f 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Alex M
Hidden ?/Jul/08 TR
dmoir 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 17/May/08 Lead O/S
steve taylor 26/Apr/08 -
with gav
Hidden 01/Mar/08 Lead
vertigo 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Cat Higgs
dannyboy83 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Stephen Roberts 05/Apr/07 -
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
chris sm 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
AlexD 11/Mar/07 Lead rpt
ASchwirtz 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead β
Hidden 22/Feb/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
feilx ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
steve taylor 23/Dec/06 -
with mark reeves
JPGR 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Wilbur 05/Aug/06 Lead RP

fell off it a couple of years ago - returned to do it properly..

with Caine
viking ?/Aug/06 Lead
with wilbur
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 05/May/06 -
with Richard Ball
aged_ape ?/May/06 Lead RP
just one more 30/Apr/06 Lead
with Svenn G
EG 29/Apr/06 Lead
with Kristy
Daniel Wrightson 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Oli sherman (lead it too)
Oliver Sherman 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
tobydunford 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith, Lisa Paling
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Marq 19/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Ruth Creamer
Norman_P_W 12/Jun/05 Lead
with Bob M
Bob M 12/Jun/05 2nd
Vince 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with Morgan Woods
Owen W-G 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Rigby
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
rob.grafton 16/Aug/03 Lead
with Simon Wood, Jim, Bruce
Hidden 08/Apr/03 Lead dog
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Jon Greengrass ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2003 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2003 -
Hidden 22/Sep/02 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 19/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Tom Starke
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
just one more 05/May/02 Lead
with Max B, Svenn G
phardman 28/Mar/02 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 23/Mar/02 -
Hidden 16/Dec/01 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 16/Dec/01 Lead O/S
with dean howard
john1 15/Sep/01 Lead RP
with simon
Hidden 04/Aug/01 Lead O/S
shoulders 26/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/01 2nd
migs493 27/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/01 Lead O/S
tompercy 21/May/01 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
anyes varenne ?/Aug/00 -
with suzanne
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
duncan 13/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Rei Kozaki
Hidden 16/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/98 Lead
with Jason Lloyd
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
buzby78 10/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Neil R 30/Mar/97 Lead
with Richard W
phardman 27/Mar/97 Lead O/S
r0b 17/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Richard Smith
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 07/Apr/96 Lead
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
Scott McRae 16/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Lucas
rob.grafton 28/May/95 2nd
with Bruce
Roget 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
Bruce Kerr 14/Apr/95 Lead
with Perric Crellin
Mark Kemball 23/Feb/95 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead O/S

Tricky start, then greasy.

with Rich Howard
MoWalker3 11/Oct/93 -
with Joe
Ena ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/93 Lead
clark alston ?/Feb/93 Lead O/S
Ezy Ryder ??/1993 Lead RP
11 users have this on their wishlist
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 62
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set