Rockfax Description
A long-established Portland favourite. Climb to the narrow roof and pass it on the right before making some fingery moves back left above it to an easing. Continue to the base of the upper corner and follow cracks up this, exiting leftwards. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 10/Jul/1990

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland, Spanish crew 2018.

JendeHoxar 18/Nov/17 Lead
with Flavio
Flavio 18/Nov/17 Lead RP

2nd go. cold.

ricci.andrea86 05/Nov/17 Lead rpt
GrahamGiles 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Super greasy start but leads to a nice mid section and a spicy finish

with Yijing
Katia McCrudden 12/Oct/17 Lead
with Lula
kcichy 08/Oct/17 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Sep/17 Lead O/S
nacnud 27/Aug/17 Lead RP
john rensten 24/Aug/17 Lead RP

a bit thuggy to start and some nice moves higher up, but isn't it about time that old 'dorset top 50 climbs' list got an update...I can't see this making the cut

with ellie
JPGR 17/Aug/17 Lead O/S
StrongDan 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
adamsriches 06/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Elodie
ian bryant 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
RangerMcFreindly 05/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Got completely zoned on the first part couldn't make it to the 3rd draw. Will be back.

Steve Hickie 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S
adamsriches 29/Jul/17 Lead dog

Struggled through the initial roofs, rain came before I could redpoint.

Q.Estelles 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S
julesmckim 16/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Fell off the second long reach move on first attempt. Burly! Pulled ropes through and got it second go. Nicely contrast between butch first section and more delicate upper groove

Dale Comley 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
KDhruev 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
hankyc 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Jack93 04/Jun/17 Lead RP
tyho 04/Jun/17 Lead dog
Tristan.Stricker 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Jena
Edward Kwong 03/Jun/17 Lead RP

Should really have got this ages ago. Still worth coming back to tick it off, great climbing past the tricky roof.

meinecke 03/Jun/17 2nd
Ian MK 27/May/17 Lead O/S
Sam4242 22/May/17 Lead RP
David Staples 11/May/17 Lead dnf
with Clemmie
clemmiethompson 11/May/17 TR dnf

Super tricky climb! One for the wish list... :)

with Dave
Jay-Ast 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
luke glaister 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Shame the holds felt polished on the steep start. Makes it much harder. If they had some grip it would be easy. The top is excellent.

Lenny 13/Apr/17 Lead dog

To cold

with Gayle
cdpuk 02/Apr/17 Lead dog

Stamina test! Failed. Tried to make too big a reach near the start.

Ian Bell 01/Apr/17 TR dog
Ian Bell 01/Apr/17 Lead dog

Those first 2 clips worth are nails!

gem_stone12 ?/Apr/17 TR dog
nimajneb ?/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Russell Blackaller 24/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with JackMac
JackMac 24/Mar/17 Lead β

Good route, bad warmup :)

with Russ
Ellis Bird ??/2017 -
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
AndrewP 27/Oct/16 Lead dog

Dogged the crux section which was too powerful for me on the day. Then onsighted the rest which would be a brilliant 6a+ in its own right, albeit with a bit of a grip-clip at the top of the slab section. I'll be back.

FelixPeterken 27/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Easy if you're a boulderer

AJM 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Owen Diba 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
Xelif 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
TomJ 17/Sep/16 Lead β
with Al
Trisha Murphy 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt
RagingPuffin 17/Sep/16 Lead dog

Did the crux, but was so pumped I screwed up the easy sequence after. More redpointing to be done in the future.

Gingerlings 17/Sep/16 Lead dog

The first three bolts are really pumpy, by the time I had learnt the sequence I didn't have the energy to Redpoint it! Great climb.

with Trisha
Hidden 11/Sep/16 -
Dave Cale 11/Sep/16 Lead β
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Tru 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Keep it together during the initial pumpy roof section and then ride the glory jugs all the way to the top.

jsmcfarland 09/Aug/16 Lead RP

Ran out of steam on first attempt and dogged the roof section. Knowing where all the holds were made the second time around much easier (i.e still bloody hard). Fantastic route, ***

with Tim
tim.fairhall 09/Aug/16 Lead β
with Sachi
hfotheri 06/Aug/16 Lead dog

Hard start

chris_woodsy 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Was't ready for the hard start. Had to chuck for it a few times. Great varied climbing thereafter.

with Widdaz, BenL
BenL 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S
katiep 30/Jul/16 Lead β

Was grateful to have the first two clips in so I didn't have to faff on most of the steep bit. Nearly fell off at the technical upper section

with Alex Banks
will black 28/Jul/16 Lead RP

fell off the start 4 times - far easier and more enjoyable climbing towards the top

Ricky Rocks 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S
bryan61 17/Jul/16 Lead dog

this is a tough start

with m meaney
Tomas P 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
professorcobra 18/Jun/16 Lead RP
evans859 14/Jun/16 Lead dog

Was accidentally on Always Have the Edge but traversed onto this route from the ledge and finished top half.

with Mondane Fouqueray
Hidden 03/Jun/16 Lead RP
j_aaake 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Tricky start then JUGS

David Staples 31/May/16 Lead rpt
David Staples 31/May/16 TR rpt
samparsons 22/May/16 Lead β
with Emmie
mikespooner 08/May/16 Lead dnf
RKirke 08/May/16 Lead G/U
Gloria 08/May/16 Lead
with Eric Pieuchot
afterthesend 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead
Graham Westbrook 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S
jonsey1995 28/Feb/16 Lead
blaza1 28/Feb/16 Lead RP

Slipped on the onsight, bouldery start

Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 13/Dec/15 TR dnf
Albachoss ?/Oct/15 Lead β
with Andrea
marcduhig 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Great route

chancer 19/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Marc Duhig
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
etrillaud 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
Sam4242 10/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 06/Jul/15 2nd dog
Robheirene 05/Jul/15 Lead dog

Start was super greasy, onsighted the rest. Some big run outs but on good holds

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead β
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead
Andy Smallwood 04/Jul/15 Lead β
chrisscutt 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Kelly
Matti Puckridge 27/Jun/15 Lead G/U

This was awesome! Slightly hard start with a little spooge.

Hidden 18/Jun/15 Lead RP
Owen W-G 18/Jun/15 Lead RP

Dogged to third bolt, lowered and led. Hard start then a nice sustained 6a+ above, not really 3*

with Tomisi
David Staples 18/Jun/15 AltLd dog
David Staples 18/Jun/15 2nd dog
RichyBOYY 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ben M
Hidden 15/Jun/15 TR dog
David Staples 15/Jun/15 TR dnf

Worked the start. Back for the lead in a few days.

Rockmonkey1977 06/Jun/15 Lead β

Nice route, personally I found the slab the trickiest bit!

Hugobristol 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S


with Liam
Dandan82 25/May/15 Lead rpt

Due to Si's terrible sense of direction, we actually ended up doing a link with the top half of 'Always have the edge', creating the completely pointless 'No man has the edge'...

Qisheng Xie 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Linc 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Aaron.Clifford 24/May/15 Lead RP
Skorchio 24/May/15 Lead dog

Tough start, dream (and clean) after the first 2 bolts.

jamesb101 23/May/15 Lead dog

hot and greasy so fell off the bottom section - will have to come back to this

Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 TR rpt
Trisha Murphy 21/Mar/15 TR
afrosam 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
islandlynx 07/Mar/15 TR dnf
TomRiddelsdell 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
Toby Dunn ??/2015 -
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
LJC 20/Nov/14 Lead
with Lou, Jamie, George
Julie Carroll 20/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Cristiano Costa
Hidden 13/Sep/14 -
Gem Minihan 29/Aug/14 TR dnf
philhaigh 29/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Alex N-R 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I am so unfit.

with James and Ami
spidermonkey09 06/Jun/14 Lead RP

Yes! After massive failure last year basically onsighted the rest after the second bolt. Chuffed.

lewiz 01/Jun/14 Lead dog
lewiz 31/May/14 Lead rpt
Pete Dangerous 26/May/14 Lead RP
with lewiz
RadekNowak 25/May/14 Lead RP

lower boulder section. had to work out the move. rest is much easier

stp 23/May/14 Lead O/S
with Alan
tobydunford 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead rpt
philhaigh 21/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
LouisJones ??/2014 Lead RP

First bit is hard

Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
lewiz 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Luis SD 06/Sep/13 Lead O/S
chris j 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Hardest moves were getting off the ground...

Pathological_Climber 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
quiffhanger 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Hard start then fairly non-eventful. Didn't think it was as good as Dorset Rockfax suggests. Wobbly flake is amusing...

philhaigh 20/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Mimi
RdC 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mikey
paultaylor 12/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead β
Dibdawg 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
paultaylor 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Grant
anthony henry 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
chrisscutt 08/Jun/13 Lead β
with ant, ro, oly
ollie_e 08/Jun/13 Lead RP

Took a few attempts, I am not on form at the moment.

Daniel Wicks 07/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Jim
LucasHarazin 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett ?/Jun/13 Lead rpt

start super-greasy!

Tom Brierley Gore 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant long climb, took some composure and plenty of shaking out through the powerful moves lower down.

Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18/May/13 Lead β

not that good.

Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 06/May/13 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 06/May/13 Lead
adam 24 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
brices 29/Mar/13 Lead β
Tommyads ??/2013 -
dobby 200 14/Oct/12 Lead dog
jonleighton 29/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR dog
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jonleighton 09/Sep/12 Lead dog

The start is quite hard and I was tired. Will redpoint this another day.

Haydn Jones 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Luxulyan ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Daph Brown
GPN 22/Aug/12 Lead
with Annette
climbhannahclimb 19/Aug/12 TR
with Iain Adams
Dan_Carroll 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 27/Jul/12 Lead β

Fun juggy climbing :P first ever sport dyno

with Mike
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Hard start, juggy as balls for the rest of it.

with Laura Perry
tedj234 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead RP
tobydunford 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
MarkRyder 24/May/12 Lead RP
with Ed
Alex More 17/May/12 Lead

Just classic !

with Ed babs
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Si Brice
derico 07/Apr/12 Lead RP

Hard start to the trip

with Jonny
Macca_7 01/Apr/12 Lead RP

Difficult big moves through the low bulge, didn't help being greasey as hell, lowered off after first go from 2nd bolt. Good rests above and easier climbing although you are a little pumped from the start.

Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
Hidden ??/2012 -
burto 23/Oct/11 Lead dog
with steve, hertha
Hidden 09/Oct/11 Lead RP
Dandan82 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
BicepAndrews 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
pezzerrr 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with roslyn mckendry
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 28/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Rik
lewiz 21/Aug/11 Lead dog

Worked the bouldery start, led the rest clean. RP next time.

J.Wells 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead RP
Kopinski 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Sparky!!!3 25/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Kyle F
jgustafsson 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Warmup. One or two tricky moves through the initial bulges, after that pretty easy.

with Jen
brian watson 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 04/Jul/11 Lead dog

couldn't get start clean, so decided to leave it for later.

J5Kay 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Kevster 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
brian watson 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf
with neil weymouth
brian watson 11/Jun/11 TR rpt
with neil weymouth
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/11 TR dog
Billg 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
robajob 20/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Ed Babs 17/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Wil Treasure ??/2011 Lead
Sami Mandeel 10/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Messed up the start first time round but got it on the second go. After that it's just cruising - enjoy the view!

with Spence
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
JPGR 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Yvette
Will_Maxwell 22/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
AlexD 11/Jul/10 Lead dnf

need to go to the wall a few more times before returning!

London Luke 11/Jul/10 Lead
with Si
ThomasB ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jan.prostrednik 31/May/10 Lead dog
with Lukas Marcin
Hidden 29/May/10 Lead β
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
sparkass 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mel Jarret
Cowflinger 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Pete Lewis
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
La benya 25/Sep/09 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
chris sm 02/Aug/09 Lead dog

Wet and greesey low down. The rest is fine.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 14/Jun/09 Lead dog

very nice up top, pretty crap low down. dusty and greasy and steep. slipped off jugs twice.

with claire jane carter
trev_f 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Joel
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S

tricky bouldery start but after very steady and enjoyable

Mark Stevenson 16/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Lucy Creamer
Mark Kemball 27/Mar/08 Lead dog

Fell off several times at the first two bolts.

with Stu Bradbury, Lee Bartrop
Hidden ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 -
Sophie Nunn 27/Nov/07 2nd
rubben 21/Oct/07 2nd β
Mark Stevenson 06/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with Sarah
tumbling wizard ?/May/07 Lead
Stephen Roberts 05/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
feilx 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Steve P
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
ecowaller ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Paula
guyblackwood 05/Aug/06 Lead dog
with David, Ricardo, Olga
Rob Grant 23/Jul/06 -
bigie bob 14/May/06 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2006 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
goi.ashmore 27/Apr/04 Lead RP
with Ben Merryfield
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
John Southworth 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead
Mark Stevenson 08/May/02 Lead O/S
with Mike Smith
Hidden ??/2002 -
SR1970 ?/May/01 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 10/Jun/00 Lead dog
with Martin Smith, Brian, Nicky
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Hidden ??/2000 -
clark alston ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S

Great long climbs on this wall.

with Steve Thorpe
Ben Thorne ??/1998 Lead RP

Still find the crux really hard and the top really airy!

with John Pullin
buzby78 10/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 -
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead

Pumpy Start!

with Lyn
Mike Owen 28/May/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
kristian ??/1995 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Roget 31/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with jon
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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 84
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set