Rockfax Description
A fingery climb, and the first of the superb flowstone pitches on this section of the crag. Start by climbing the wall just right of the bolts to good holds. Ascend the increasingly-technical wall via a thin move and small undercut to an easier finish on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 12/Sep/1992

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland, Memorable Climbs.

mathesar 24/Sep Lead RP

Nearly got it first attempt. 2nd go it!

Hidden 23/Sep Lead dog
paultaylor 22/Sep Lead
Jamie Jacques 09/Sep Lead β
with Adelie
David Dickinson 27/Aug Lead RP

Great climb, first 6c in portland! Quality moves throughout, exciting exposure at the top

with dryvita
dryvita 27/Aug Lead RP

2nd RP. beautiful flowing movement, just two tricky moves that had to be wired

with David Dickinson
Hidden 20/Aug Lead RP
guy_impey 20/Aug Lead RP

Superb. Enjoyable climbing at top and bottom with a great crux sequence in the middle. Took a great whipper on 1st attempt. Highly recommended route. ***

StrongDan 19/Aug Lead RP
RangerMcFreindly 19/Aug Lead RP

Great climb, my first 6c. Cleaned it on a top rope (flashed) and then on the lead fell off the crux. Jumped straight back on and got it! Happy days...

mathesar 13/Aug Lead dog

Gripped too hard and got too pumped. Learnt the crux. Once the sequence is dialed felt easy but not a pushover as it is easy to muck up which I did on the 2nd attempt. Next time forsure!

Hidden 07/Aug TR dnf
Owen Davies 06/Aug Lead O/S

Classy climbing. Fantastic.

Hidden 06/Aug Lead β
adamsriches 05/Aug Lead rpt
with Elodie
Widda 04/Aug 2nd dog

1st RP: came off pre-pocked 2nd RP: came off going through underclings at the end of the crux. gutted not to get it this time!

Chops 04/Aug Lead O/S
hfotheri 30/Jul Lead dog
JPGR 16/Jul Lead O/S
gary9t9 16/Jul Lead dog
Tom92 15/Jul Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jul Lead RP
suddy 25/Jun Lead O/S
with Eva Hamilton, Rob Siitonen, Carl Heimann
Carl 25/Jun Lead O/S

Really really good route, never desperate but always interesting. Earned my first bail biner, too!

with Sud, Rob S
Carl 25/Jun Lead rpt

Had to climb it again to get the draws out - not that I'm complaining!

The Screaming Finn 25/Jun Lead dnf
AlexBush 24/Jun Lead β
with Oli
eoinb 17/Jun Lead dnf

Felt consistently hard anyway, and then the sun came around the corner onto the rock, and I wilted. Got as far as the small undercut, resting often.

beefy_legacy 11/Jun Lead RP

1st 6c outdoors! 2nd go. Tricky crux with high feet then big moves quite run out. Using rests key. Great route, would do again.

kingborris 11/Jun Lead RP
with Tom, Simon
J1_TOV 11/Jun Lead O/S


danJBA 10/Jun Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell
Hidden 04/Jun Lead dog
littleluke 04/Jun Lead
artmal 04/Jun Lead rpt
with Jordana
patrickcd 03/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jun Lead O/S
Matt Harle 03/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jun 2nd β
Hidden 30/May Lead RP
benjaminwhite001 30/May Lead

2nd go. Worth seeking out.

with Gouldharry
adamsriches 28/May Lead G/U

Tried a few weeks ago at the end of the day, bailed after a couple of clips. Went straight up it today with no trouble, should have been able to onsight.

Hidden 23/May TR dog
robajob 23/May Lead RP
with Kt
Hidden 21/May Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May 2nd dog
emmafizzle 21/May Lead dog

Project! Helped through the crux with the use of Pongoose :)

wjehring 13/May Lead dnf

Tried at the end of the day (like an idiot). Cool route, definitely coming back with some more energy!

Hidden 07/May Lead O/S
Ben Harper 29/Apr Lead rpt

7 years later and it's still as good as ever.

marcb 29/Apr Lead RP
with Ben Harper, Michael Moore
WillAndrew 18/Apr Lead O/S
with KatePG
Marti999 17/Apr Lead rpt
with Debbie
Ossolano78 16/Apr Lead dog
Steven1993 08/Apr Lead RP

Had a go at this a couple of years ago, felt a lot easier this time round, fell off the crux once on Thursday 6th. Then lead it clean when I came back today. Great route.

with James, Emily Mobley, Amy Hare
MarcinK 02/Apr TR rpt

za drugim razem się nie udało

with Charel Wohl
artmal 02/Apr Lead O/S
with Christa
Hidden 01/Apr Lead dog
Dale Turrell 27/Mar Lead β
with Finn
TomatoPro 25/Mar Lead dog

like someone else, caught ledge fever: up and down climbed to the crux a few times going for the onsight. blew it, one fall!

with Cindy
hthom 25/Mar TR dog
with Chris Mooney
paultaylor 19/Jan Lead RP
with Matt Roberts
Joshshort95 ??/2017 Lead RP
Bettymolly ??/2017 Lead dog
pymn nice but dim ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 05/Nov/16 Lead dog
amccann 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
ollie_e 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S


elyselydia 30/Oct/16 TR

new project for less Baltic connies

with ollie_e
FelixPeterken 25/Oct/16 Lead dog

Really really really should have on sighted this, not enough time for a redpoint though. Foothold popped when I strayed off route because I couldn't find the good hold above 2nd clip! On sighted the crux.

Hidden 23/Oct/16 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Oct/16 Lead dog
George Killaspy 09/Oct/16 TR O/S

Should have led this. Doh

Gabe Oliver 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great flowstone climbing

partz 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hayley loves climbing 02/Oct/16 Lead β
lawsy_boy1 02/Oct/16 Lead β
Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Tru 25/Sep/16 Lead β
tonevert 24/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Paloma
Ramon Marin 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with viki harvey
Rockmonkey1977 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Placing QD's as I went and it felt pretty comfortable today.

Gingerlings 15/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Trisha
Trisha Murphy 15/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Kate
Chris Redding 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Fairly short lived crux a few moves above a no hands rest. Caught ledge fever and went up and down a lot working out the moves. Felt easier than I expected when I finally committed. Get on it!!! but maybe take an extended draw/cojones for the crux clip.

Binigo 29/Aug/16 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/16 2nd dog
TomJ 28/Aug/16 Lead β

Quality climb - up there with Englands Dreaming

with erica
Rocky 26/Aug/16 Lead β
with Katie Pasquill, Rob Clifton
jsmcfarland 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Apart from the crux I didn't think it was all that hard, surprised to see it regarded as top of the grade on here and in the book. Then again it suited me perfectly : ) Brilliant climbing, ***

with Tim
tim.fairhall 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sachi
GwilymR 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jammy
Hidden ?/Aug/16 -
dean_c88 31/Jul/16 Lead RP

First of the grade. Two goes on top rope to figure out the tricky middle sequence and then cleanly on lead.

Hidden 28/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/16 Lead
Wood for Trees 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Found the move off the pocket hard

with Flo Barton
joese7en 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Zakko 17/Jul/16 Lead dog

Not a fan of undercuts but undoubtedly a fun route nevertheless. Would be good to climb it clean soon.

Trisha Murphy 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
afrosam 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Gem Minihan 15/Jul/16 2nd dog
julesmckim 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Found this steady, no particularly hard moves

Neilaw 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
afterthesend 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
will black 01/Jul/16 Lead β
Alex Norman 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Haimireich ?/Jul/16 Lead β
Lakesben 27/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Mark, The Plough
jon_gill1 26/Jun/16 Lead dog
with chris Lyness
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Tomas P 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
Montecore 24/Jun/16 TR dog

Tried to lead first and backed off at 4th clip as couldn't figure out sequence. Got it on a top rope after sitting around for a bit and realising I was using the hold wrong. Lead again next time! Very strenuous.

Emily Y 19/Jun/16 Lead dnf
Trisha Murphy 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Tall Gecko Hands 12/Jun/16 Lead dog
evans859 12/Jun/16 Lead RP

Came back after failing to RP last year, sent it first go!! :D

cdpuk 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/16 Lead RP
Hinchrn 30/May/16 Lead dog
with Pete
Hidden 30/May/16 2nd
Rockmonkey1977 30/May/16 Lead RP

Fell on the onsight attempt at the crux trying to move dynamically from the 2 finger pocket but I had wasted a load of energy moving right to a tiny crimp to get the QD in. Then on my second attempt I tried Matts cool heel hook beta which was superb and went straight to the top. I need more technique/ trickery...

Hidden 29/May/16 Lead dog
dbrooks 29/May/16 Lead RP
with Stu
katiep 28/May/16 Lead O/S

First 6c onsight in England. Great route

with Roger, Matt Smith
Matt Smith 28/May/16 Lead dnf

Screwed up while clipping on crux, and dogged to the easier stuff. Should have just continued to the top.

simo 16/May/16 Lead dnf
with Shane, Fireman Dan
dannygale 16/May/16 Lead O/S
with Simon, Shane
samparsons 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Incredible i wish it was 30 meters longer though!

with Emmie
tombrol 14/May/16 Lead RP
with Marta
Hidden 13/May/16 2nd dog
Hidden 13/May/16 Lead O/S
Livia 07/May/16 Lead dog

needs more work

with Marit S
Ranaz 06/May/16 Lead RP
Kevster 01/May/16 Lead O/S
bede.west 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Hmm, perhaps just a flash

MichaelGallimore 28/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Three stars! Really flowy moves with small finger and footholds but all in just the right places.

with Flavio, Ben Philips, Ellie
Jackislav 18/Apr/16 Lead dog

1 fall after Crux moving off big flowstone undercut after the twin undercuts, simply too pumped, blame it on the weather.. Why not?

Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead RP
Glyn 11/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
Kipper-Phil Smith 23/Mar/16 Lead

Alzheimer's onsite did this around 21 years ago. Brilliant climb even better than I remembered

with Shaun
kingborris 13/Mar/16 Lead dog
with Simon
brian watson 12/Mar/16 Lead RP
with AlexD
Tom Brierley Gore 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Used Brian's clips (thanks), wandered up and down between the crux and ledge being a blind fool, easily unlocked once I started using my eyes: a very nice sequence with amazing holds.

GouldHarry ??/2016 Lead O/S
ihugrocks ??/2016 -
ihugrocks ??/2016 -
Barry Kerslake 02/Nov/15 Lead rpt
with Gem
Gem Minihan 02/Nov/15 2nd dog
jonsey1995 ?/Nov/15 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/15 Lead RP
Brown 27/Sep/15 Lead
with Lilifa
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead RP
rachelvlc 29/Aug/15 Lead
Matti Puckridge 29/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Love this route. Can be done the hard way for a solid tick or you can make it easier on yourself.

with Rachel
Phil Davidson 28/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Simply too polished, no doubt was a cracking route but not now!! CBA

with Pete Cahill, jim hewson
ElArt 15/Aug/15 2nd dnf
Sam4242 15/Aug/15 Lead G/U
Didymus 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Nick
PaulTclimbing 02/Aug/15 Lead
with Pete
Hidden 28/Jul/15 Lead dnf
rachelvlc 26/Jul/15 Lead dog

Rested before the crux

dohart 25/Jul/15 2nd dnf
with herve
Matti Puckridge 25/Jul/15 Lead
BenL 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 19/Jul/15 Lead β
FlavioL1989 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 06/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Albachoss 06/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Great line and climbing!

with Lisa, Dougie
Billg 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

complete alzhiemers on sight

Aaron.Clifford 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Graham Giles
GrahamGiles 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Renna Clifford, Aaron Clifford
robfir 05/Jul/15 -
Vespa63 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
DanielGyi 04/Jul/15 Lead
LaraKate224 04/Jul/15 TR
hervenuttall ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Doug
Matti Puckridge 28/Jun/15 2nd
Edward Kwong 28/Jun/15 Lead β

Techy middle crux section. I remained left, then used a couple of crucial small sidepulls to the positive ledge. This avoided the very chalked up mono undercut... Second half is wonderfully juggy and enjoyable.

Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
wilchivs 21/Jun/15 Lead dog

Great route - fell once on the crux moving off the two finger undercut (which was fair enough, bit pumped) and then took another fall shortly after because I misread the line (annoying!) Easy finish which was nice.

Hidden 21/Jun/15 TR dog
mossrug 20/Jun/15 Lead dog
with Rob
evans859 19/Jun/15 Lead dog
RichyBOYY 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S

really good climbing - the crux is awesome

with Ben M
GeneralFifi 15/Jun/15 Lead RP

Tried this once last year and it felt pumpy back then. Did not remember any of it so could almost call this an onsight today, putting the draws in as well. Good climb!

philhaigh 10/Jun/15 Lead rpt


with Ed Babs
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead RP
A Jackson ?/Jun/15 2nd
Martin Bagshaw 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route

with Ed Green
bryan61 16/May/15 Lead RP

great route

with bogden
Hidden 13/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/15 Lead RP
stevoland 07/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/15 Lead β
Swamp murphy ?/May/15 Lead RP
climbomaniac 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Very interesting climbing! Almost fell off it with numb fingers from cold

Hidden 05/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead RP
Owen Diba 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
Charlie Noakes 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Lovely crux sequence

Pete Scott 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
JackMac 16/Mar/15 Lead dnf
Kris suriyo 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
lewiz 14/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Beata
lewiz 14/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Beata
Rgswarren 14/Mar/15 Lead dnf
Ferdi 01/Mar/15 Lead RP
with Tim
tomoneill84 ?/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Giles Davis 27/Sep/14 TR RP

Just thought I'd top rope it first as there was still one move at the crux that I wasn't sure I'd make on lead.

Giles Davis 27/Sep/14 Lead RP

Great route.

Stanners 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S

really really good fun. Flowed so well managed to avoid any pump that I thought was inevitable!

Gem Minihan 21/Sep/14 TR dog
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
adam 24 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 20/Sep/14 Lead RP
JHC 17/Sep/14 TR

Solo TR. Nice.

etrillaud 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ash Sayers 11/Sep/14 Lead RP
cookie-doo 11/Sep/14 TR
dom94 09/Sep/14 Lead RP

Got halfway up this a year ago but gave up on the rather balancy crux, but got up it first time today.

Giles Davis 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Sep/14 -
Sam4242 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/14 TR RP
Dizz 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
with chris colebrook
PalfreyN 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
Gem Minihan 24/Aug/14 TR dog
Chris Sansum 23/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Wasn't really taking this seriously! No plans to get up it - was just coerced into trying it! Anyway, made it most of the way up and gave up after the crux (reached the undercut).

with Ramsey Villanueva
kermit_uk 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
R2B 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sam
Nick Clement 06/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 27/Jul/14 Lead dog

rested half way

with Ben Woods
dready 13/Jul/14 Lead dog

tough in the upper section a well pulled on sloper to take

alexjz 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 05/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
Douglas ?/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Martin Smith
Sdentzel 23/Jun/14 TR dog

whoa it is a hard 6C its good too :)

with Beau
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mop449 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb quite sustained. First 6c onsight.

Swampy167 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead dog
RKirke 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mikespooner 15/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jun/14 TR
SteveHowie1 09/Jun/14 TR dog
Jack93 09/Jun/14 Lead RP

Should have had this first time but went to the wrong way at the crux and got two pumped reversing it!

JUSTADUDE 09/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't reach 3rd bolt to clip, felt uneasy trying the crux without being clipped in, was in a strange mind-set that day, will come back and do it! Figured it out though.

spidermonkey09 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great route, chuffed with the onsight.

k_k 08/Jun/14 Lead β
valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Skullfire 31/May/14 Lead RP
with Pino Ferro
skippington 26/May/14 Lead O/S
John Tanner 25/May/14 Lead dog
dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead dog

got through crux but fell going into undercut... next time

with John
Dizz 18/May/14 Lead
with Sadie
Rupey 03/May/14 Lead
AlexD 30/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Ed
Skullfire 12/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Jun Minohara, Pino Ferro
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd dog
ella.thorne5 ?/Mar/14 Lead RP
clmacdonald ??/2014 2nd
tskelhon ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Tom Jordan, Charlotte
Hidden ??/2014 Lead RP
sarpedon 07/Dec/13 Lead RP

Got it on the second attempt, crux very hard to read.

Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
hankyc 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

amazing flowstone climbing!

fraserbarrett 21/Sep/13 Lead dog
Ian Bell 01/Sep/13 TR

Last climb of the weekend and knackered. crux is tough with bad feet.

with Andrea
Dean177 ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 31/Aug/13 2nd
with dprctr
dprctr 31/Aug/13 Lead RP

Brilliant route.

spidey 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mat lamb, kelly, luke owens
john rensten 21/Aug/13 Lead RP
with ellie
Maddie 13/Aug/13 TR dog

Many rests!

with remus
BeccaSnowden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy. Had to climb way past one of the bolts before clipping because I couldn't reach. Excellent route otherwise.

with Tom
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
skunky456 06/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 08/Jul/13 Lead rpt
maybe_si 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 06/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
leeoftroy ?/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Jay-Ast 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Tophe 10/Jun/13 Lead
with Alex banks, Ben Corbey
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 06/Jun/13 2nd
Steph Roberts 06/Jun/13 TR dnf
with Sami, Sam
Sami Mandeel 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Steph, Sam Ferguson
robbo99 03/Jun/13 TR dog
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
The Jazz Butcher 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 27/May/13 2nd
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 25/May/13 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 28/Apr/13 Lead RP

Missed a sidepull on O/S attempt, clean second try.

Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Alan, Martin
ian d f 28/Apr/13 Lead dog

I thought I was on Aim High, Shoot Low - turns out this is a good warm-up too!

with Martin, Michael P
pearson9596 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead dnf
lewiz 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
Skullfire 06/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Pino Ferro
chiverstom 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Alice
cameron_hall 16/Feb/13 TR dog

Nice to have a go, but it felt very tricky the whole way up, even the 'easy' bit with the undercling jugs. 6c still feels a long way away. :-/

with Jennifer Southern
ambrooker 16/Feb/13 Lead dog
with Tom
will_benfold 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf
with Jenny Southern, Cameron
will_benfold 16/Feb/13 TR dog
with Jenny Southern, Cameron
Beefy Bert ??/2013 Lead RP
Tommyads ??/2013 -
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead RP
chrisclimber ??/2013 -
Hidden 18/Nov/12 TR dog
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
gibsond 06/Oct/12 Lead RP

Took a go to remind myself where all the holds are, but then did it easily.

JackMac 29/Sep/12 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR dog
andy south devon 29/Sep/12 Lead dog
philhaigh 19/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead β
Thinker01 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ralph Wilkinson
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Lead dog
James Oswald 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great moves

with Jake shaw, Liam, Mark Rankine
Jon_Warner ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

Good route. Cool top. shortlived crux, should have O/S though hard to reach clip.

with Jenni
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
gibsond 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

Took a few goes to workout a repeatable sequence through the crux. Think I now have it, but was too tired to get it clean by then. Hope to get RP next time.

Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR dog
Jake Young 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 24/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mark20 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
GPN 20/Aug/12 Lead
with Annette
Hidden 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
DannyK 26/Jul/12 Lead dog
francois 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

One fall at the move on the overlaps

with Tammy
Jay81 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kelly, Tomar
Tomar 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Retroflash, everybit as good as I remember it!

with Kelly
Julesthe1st 21/Jul/12 Lead dog

With one rest. Really happy with that considering my lack of sport climbing. Technical climbing on lovely rock.

with Mike
philhaigh 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
rustaldo 06/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Started and finished in a pretty heavy drizzle. Was pretty greasy but not un-climbable. Felt benchmark 6c to me. Another worthwhile route in this area.

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead β
Hidden 30/Jun/12 TR RP
Adamwillclimb 30/Jun/12 Lead RP
mattwyles1 29/Jun/12 Lead dog

Hard to os, didn't get back on.

richsmithinbristol 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 23/Jun/12 Lead RP

1st RP

with Rich
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead β

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing.

ferdia 06/Jun/12 Lead

took a whipper from just above crux moves, then got knackered on ground up attempt. phenomenal moves though.

burto 06/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with ferdia
Jonathan Emett 04/Jun/12 Lead dog

foot slipped on the crux.

with daniel
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead RP
Jaime Mitchell 27/May/12 TR dnf
Jonathan Emett 19/May/12 Lead rpt
Gem Minihan 12/May/12 TR dog
Jaime Mitchell 12/May/12 2nd dog
philhaigh 12/May/12 Lead dog
Martin Cleaver 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Alek
pigeonslipper 08/Apr/12 Lead
metal arms 08/Apr/12 Lead

2nd go

Gareth Bowen 01/Apr/12 Lead RP

2nd go.

dobby 200 31/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Ros
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead rpt
matt perks ??/2012 -
angie ??/2012 -
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
Adam Booth 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
nath_casper 22/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/11 TR dog
tcn_2002 16/Oct/11 TR
burto 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
SMc 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Andy G
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead β
keithpeck 23/Sep/11 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 23/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
marcb 28/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Led first 6 bolts clean. Didn't have the stamina to make the final hard move onto the easier looking top section.

Tomar 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Hard technical climbing on small flowstone holds and a building pump until the big big hole. One of the best 6c I've ever done!

sportsten 06/Aug/11 Lead β
with SwissMachine
nicolat ?/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with James Mitchell
Bargate_Champ 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
felixthelion 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Tough for 6c. Two hard moves. Easy top section

with Dan craig
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
sarpedon 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

Slippery holds at the crux, but redpoint will definitely happen next time.

Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Lloyders 24/Jul/11 Lead β
philhilo 16/Jul/11 Lead dog

Completely beaten up on this one. I don't think the warm up of reptile smile quite worked on a route that was so not my style! Pumped to buggery but still seemed very tough for the grade.

with Helen E
cayteye 30/Jun/11 2nd dog


with stephen pearson
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 27/May/11 Lead dnf

lead up to the crux, which I got - then fell off.

with tomski
Bocke 25/May/11 Lead β

Nice climb with a lovely crux section.

with ErikMalm
Brannock 23/May/11 2nd
Hidden 23/May/11 Lead dog
mikeyjbs 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Charles Green, Kris Mazurek
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead β
jgustafsson 14/May/11 Lead rpt

Warmup. As good as last time.

with Pino
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 08/May/11 Lead dog

I couldn't figure out the crux onsight, really disappointed; as soon as I came off, I could see it. absolutely fantastic climb.

with rick, mike pinney
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 30/Apr/11 TR
with Steve Cousins
AlexD 25/Apr/11 Lead dog
with Darren
jgustafsson 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Warmup. Tricky little number. But good!

with Jen
Hidden 17/Apr/11 TR β
IanMulvany 17/Apr/11 Lead RP
Mike Green 16/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Apr/11 TR dog
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead RP
Harry Thorpe 12/Mar/11 TR O/S

Very pleased to do this first time, must lead it

with Lawrence Bird, Laurence Everitt
Brian H 06/Mar/11 Lead rpt
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Mike Adams, Charles Dawson, Peter Dawson
Dan_Carroll 20/Feb/11 Lead RP
with Dan Hancock
Rob Grant 30/Oct/10 Lead
with rob davies
Hidden 27/Sep/10 Lead dog
Jeronimo 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mia
Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead RP
MarkRyder 05/Sep/10 Lead RP
with James P
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
Tom Heslam ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Jake Day, Joe Day, Rosea
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dandan82 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
harry40740 15/Aug/10 Lead dog

Awesome climb, need to come back for the redpoint!

xiangoh 12/Aug/10 Lead β
jacobjacob 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Aug/10 TR rpt
La benya 24/Jul/10 Lead dog

good route, doesnt look it from the ground. big moves lead the the flowstone crux, and then bucket hauling to the top, some scary rock at the top tho!

Will_Maxwell 23/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena
tomB 03/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Juliette
Alaina 21/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead β
Peterjuliandawson 30/May/10 TR O/S
tommytuffa 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Nick K, nick baker
Roberto 25/May/10 Lead dog
JPGR 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 TR RP
koalapie ?/May/10 Lead RP
Ben Harper 24/Apr/10 Lead RP

Tried this 3 years ago and couldnt do it, but got it first go today

brices 17/Apr/10 Lead RP
3 Names 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S


Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Linc ??/2010 Lead RP
Dave Rumney 11/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead RP
Macca_7 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Really pleased to on-sight this. Wanted to do this for a while really good climbing nice and hot mind!

steve_biczyk 19/Sep/09 Lead
with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Brucifer 13/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd dog
KarlH 12/Sep/09 TR dnf

Got a couple of moves below the big undercut.

with Ollie
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf
willbatho 10/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 31/Jul/09 2nd dog
Chris_barr 23/Jun/09 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 23/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Jun/09 Lead RP
keithpeck 23/Jun/09 Lead dog
Justin T 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S

An interesting selection of holds chalked up around the crux ... the most obviously chalked of which I couldn't find a useful way to use at all so ignored!

with Crispin
thomb 16/Jun/09 Lead
with Jo
OliBoyes 15/Jun/09 Lead RP
with mike thomas, jo
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Birdo 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Wicks
Daniel Wicks 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bird
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead dog
dan gibson 24/May/09 Lead rpt
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead
Danos 03/May/09 Lead RP
with Andras
AsleepOnBelay 01/May/09 Lead dog

Took a rest at the pocket - really shouldn't have cos I'd worked out the move, just failed to commit firs time. Nice and technical at the bottom, gets a bit more strenuous at the top. Seemed pretty easy compared to Reptile Smile that I tried next.

with Sarah Davis
Ciro ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
celoisa 26/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Nic
sam_cox 22/Apr/09 Lead β
hippo99 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with sam cox
tobydunford 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Jus 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Rokmunky 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Hannah
billb ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Lee
chris sm 21/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Pippa Froggatt
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Tim W 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Sean
SeanyC ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with tim
vertigo 28/Feb/09 Lead RP

1st go today after trying over 2 yrs ago.

with Tiff
TiffTiff 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 26/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Ed
Ed Babs 26/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Trevor
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
jfreeman 25/Oct/08 Lead RP
simonr 25/Oct/08 Lead β
BicepAndrews 25/Oct/08 Lead
with Jacky Tyrie
Martin Davies 28/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Noel Walker
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S
hspets 03/Aug/08 Lead rpt

Toproped it clean first, to get my head in gear for a clean lead. Great great climb

with Rob
ThomasB ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 15/Jun/08 Lead rpt

A bit tougher than i remember....looks like there is an easier sequence at the crux.

with David S
Ben Tyrrell 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with neil foster, andy elliot
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/08 Lead

first try at this redpointing malarky. one clean toprope then on the sharp end. twice wanted to rest but fascist belayer wouldn't let me. glad of it afterward. crux for me getting into the double undercling at mid height. so pumped by top. slept well that night.

with dave the random
Castleclimber 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Julian Mowbray 18/May/08 Lead dog
with Richard
paddygoodwin 11/May/08 Lead RP
with Craig
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead dog
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/08 Lead RP
with Marilyn
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/08 Lead β
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Dan_Carroll ??/2008 Lead dnf
tom.e 26/May/07 Lead dnf


with Charlie Everett
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead dog
Stephen Roberts 02/Apr/07 -
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
feilx 17/Mar/07 Lead dog
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Chris(cface!) ??/2007 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
givemetea ?/Oct/06 Lead RP
with Tony Yates
trevor macalonan 19/Sep/06 TR dog
dannyboy83 ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Floris
JPGR 19/Aug/06 TR
with Steve
Richard Horn 06/Aug/06 Lead RP
nathanmanc 06/Aug/06 Lead rpt
with Tom Lawrence
Hidden 06/Aug/06 TR dog
Morgan Woods 06/Aug/06 Lead RP

v. nice only one hard move.

with Gareth
bronsonite 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead dog
givemetea 28/May/06 2nd dog
with Tony Yates
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
ASchwirtz 16/Jul/05 Lead dog

1 rest

Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 19/Mar/05 Lead rpt
chrisbevins ??/2005 -
Katex ?/Jul/04 TR
with Lucy Bland
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/03 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 31/Aug/02 Lead dog

Second failure

Mark Stevenson 16/Aug/02 Lead dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
Hidden 02/Mar/02 Lead RP
Rob Kinsey ??/2002 -
with JamesR, joe lenham
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Billg 25/Feb/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/00 2nd dnf
Hidden 05/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
uphillnow ??/1999 Lead

Had seconded before

innes ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
duncan 06/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Alison Cowley, Dan Donovan
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead RP
kp64zl ?/Jul/96 Lead dog

fell off crux

rob.grafton 09/Jun/96 Lead
with Bruce
clark alston ?/Mar/96 Lead RP

2nd previously. Very fingery crux.

AndySL ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Mark
Nick Biven ??/1996 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 16/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
Mike Owen 29/May/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
Roget 14/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/95 Lead O/S
kristian ??/1995 Lead
goi.ashmore 19/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
Nigel Coe 03/Oct/92 Lead dog
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