Rockfax Description
One of Portland's very best routes, ascending the white headwall via some exquisite moves. Low in the grade. Start at a bolt-line just to the right of a low corner. Climb the lower wall and then make a rising traverse left to a thin crack and tiny corner. Climb the thin crack and finish up the right-hand bolt-line. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25/Jul/1990

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Portland, 2017 Target Climbs For Me, Spanish crew 2018.

ricci.andrea86 05/Nov/17 Lead dog

fell off at the very last move on the 3rd go. let's blame the frozen fingers..

Jim pratt 29/Oct/17 Lead RP

2nd go, in the dark with a headtorch. Great experience.

Rocky 15/Oct/17 TR dnf

Had a quick fondle of the grips as Llin was on it. Verdict: Bloody Hard! Llin got really close. Very inspiring.

with Llin
Dale Comley 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

Amazing route, the best in Portland. Varied and trying, hard to link but when done it is fantastic. Very hard for a 7b+.

jezb1 23/Aug/17 Lead dog

Dogged and two TRs. Moves ok. Linking them may be beyond me yet.

JPGR 17/Aug/17 Lead dog
Wood for Trees 12/Aug/17 Lead dog

quick redpoint, flash pumped at crimp rail, beta sorted, had to go

with Flo Barton
Q.Estelles 16/Jul/17 Lead dog
bede.west 12/Jul/17 Lead dog

Pleased to get every move dialed-ish on the first session. wicked route!! although crazy to think about linking it!

Edward Kwong 03/Jun/17 Lead RP

Awesome line! Somehow managed to break it down and rest just enough between sections. Felt really hard on previous attempts.

Mark Warnett ?/Jun/17 Lead RP
with billb
billb ?/Jun/17 Lead RP

Had to work hard for this. 3 times fell from the last move before getting it. Great technical route with 3 cruxes

Ramon Marin 07/May/17 Lead RP

3 goes, good decent route. Hard for 7b+

with viki harvey
lena.drapella 06/May/17 Lead dog
with Anna Gibson, Abi Marchent
JackMac 05/Apr/17 Lead RP

Finally, "high octane finger damage" goes down! I found this route harder than all my previous 7c's. Really pleased :)

with Nikki_C
artmal 01/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Christa
Russell Blackaller 24/Mar/17 Lead RP
with JackMac
JackMac 24/Mar/17 Lead dog

Fluffed the move getting established on the red point crux, after the finger crack. This route is very unforgiving of mistakes :)

with Russ
blaza1 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt

Retroflash, nice to feel improvement over last year

with Lizzy
JackMac 11/Mar/17 Lead dog

Might go next time...might not!

with Kenny, James
Hugobristol 21/Jan/17 Lead dog

Got all the moves sussed and some links. Way too cold for any serious attempt.

with Eleanor, Liam
Ellis Bird ??/2017 -
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
JackMac 08/Oct/16 Lead dog

Got all of the moves but absolutely no energy for a redpoint go.

with James
Trisha Murphy 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

I'll be back...

chris_woodsy 14/Aug/16 Lead RP

first time on since feb. fell at the top move 4 times. went 5th RP. didn't think it was going to happen - very tired. love this climb.

with Widdaz
JackMac 10/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Brief play - couldn't work out how to get past the upper section. Awesome route though.

with Nikki_C
marcduhig 07/Aug/16 Lead dog

Fell off last move after getting there numerous times.

with Deniz Simsek
Hidden 06/Aug/16 TR dog
Wood for Trees 25/Jul/16 Lead dog

Brilliant climbing, off the top from a great first redpoint battle. remember to cross over from knee bar next time. Needs evening shade.

with Flo Barton
afrosam 16/Jul/16 Lead RP
j_aaake 06/Jun/16 Lead dog

Amazing route, should've had the redpoint. Lobbed off the last move!

Rockmonkey1977 28/May/16 Lead dnf

Started to work it bolt to bolt but let someone else have a go and lost the route... Will need a lot of work.

samparsons 16/May/16 Lead RP

Ahhhhh! I can't beleive it! Such a cool climb. First tried 15 Jun 2015

Glyn 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
jonsey1995 28/Feb/16 Lead dog

Awesome climbing! did all the moves just too knackered at the end of the day too try to link them, hopefully will do it next time!

blaza1 28/Feb/16 Lead dog

Great route, one to come back to

chris_woodsy 27/Feb/16 Lead dog

Open project. Can link some sequences. killer top move. Lots of PE needed... relentless top sections.

with Widdaz
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
RFWilkie 27/Sep/15 Lead dog

All the moves climbed, new project!

BRoe 30/Aug/15 Lead G/U

2nd go, super close to the flash, feeling pretty good :)

with Pimnalishous
brices 28/Aug/15 Lead RP

Great route

with Llinos
Hidden 15/Aug/15 TR dog
Ian Bell 18/Jul/15 Lead dog

Dogged up to put clips in and then 1 work on tr. tough but not impossible.

with Tania T
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead RP
anthony henry 03/Jul/15 Lead RP

Lived up to the hype. Hard 7b+

with Andy
Andy Smallwood 03/Jul/15 Lead dog
JCAshman ?/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead RP
Andy Smallwood 13/Jun/15 Lead dog
chrisscutt 13/Jun/15 Lead RP

Awesome climb

with ant, oly
ollie_e 13/Jun/15 Lead dog

Just superb, coming back for this soon. Should probably try and get some sleep the night before this time!!

Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead RP
littleluke 07/Jun/15 Lead dog
Dandan82 25/May/15 Lead RP

Finally! My longest seige by quite a margin, probably 5 years from the first time I pulled on the route. I probably only had 10 redpoint attempts in all that time, but it's such a great route that it has always been in the back of my mind. Definitely one to return to again just for the joy of climbing it.

Linc 25/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead rpt
Linc 10/May/15 Lead dog
with louis
jonleighton 03/May/15 Lead RP
Linc 02/May/15 Lead dog
with louis
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/15 -
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead dnf
philhaigh 05/Apr/15 2nd dnf
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Eddy Young, Matt Ridgway
Dandan82 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
afrosam 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
dominic lee 14/Mar/15 Lead RP

2nd go. Very cold.

with andy elliot
Hidden 06/Mar/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Mar/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Feb/15 TR dnf
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
LJC 20/Nov/14 TR dog
with Lou, Jamie, George
Hidden 27/Sep/14 TR dog
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 08/Sep/14 Lead RP

Fantastic route! Shame connies wearnt better.

with DWS Crew
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead RP
marek.pietrasz 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead dog
philhaigh 23/Jun/14 Lead RP

Love this climb. Amazing moves on beautiful rock.

drcorbasisgod 21/Jun/14 Lead dog
philhaigh 19/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Rob Kennard
jacobjacob 15/Jun/14 Lead RP

Retroflash. There is no good mono

philhaigh 15/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Mike Gubbins, Jane Weir, Murray Freestone
philhaigh 11/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Lee Mercer, Alex Dennis, Ed Babs, Shamina Kapadia
lewiz 31/May/14 Lead RP

Second go today. Easy all the way to the final hard move which was still a struggle. Chuffed.

lewiz 26/May/14 Lead dog

5 RP attempts over two days. Feels like I've made a lot of progress but last two attempts fell at the sidepully section before the final hard move. Skin very sore... next visit?

duncan 11/Jan/14 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jan/14 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
lewiz 14/Sep/13 Lead dog

Incredible moves, none too difficult but reasonably sustained. Project!

trev_f 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd dog
quiffhanger 31/Aug/13 Lead RP

2nd go. V close to the flash. Dropped on the final hard move :(

Hidden 31/Aug/13 TR dog
Joe Innes 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Max Lowry
philhaigh 26/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Mat Affourtit, Trev Ford, Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Trev Ford, Mike Gubbins
philhaigh 22/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins
philhaigh 20/Aug/13 2nd dog

Half an attempt!

philhaigh 19/Aug/13 2nd dog
Wayne.Gaudin 10/Aug/13 TR dog

Hard to hold the crux pinch and sloping crimp

with Marcus
Wayne.Gaudin 10/Aug/13 TR dog

Hard to hold the crux pinch and sloping crimp

with Marcus
pezzerrr 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jul/13 TR dog
david potts 24/Jul/13 Lead β
with Nat
Ed Babs 14/Jun/13 Lead RP

7 days, 10 falls off the last hard move and lots of beta and belaying. Thanks all. Counting the moves through the crux did it in the end. : )

Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
philhaigh 22/May/13 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18/May/13 Lead β
trev_f 04/May/13 Lead dog

far too many Eds

with Eddie, Ed
brices 21/Apr/13 Lead dog

3 tiries, os got no where, 2nd go fell of the move to the jugs at top, 3rd climbed like crap

with Lisa, Gav
givemetea 17/Apr/13 TR dog
with Vince, Hazel
Hidden 17/Apr/13 TR dog
3 Names 17/Apr/13 TR dog
Kopinski ?/Mar/13 Lead RP
Max Lowry ??/2013 Lead RP

On third Attempt.

Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead dog
Tomar 29/Sep/12 Lead RP

Finally. One of the best route i have done in Portland. Does not give in easily

with laurent
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 20/Aug/12 Lead dog
Ian Bell 30/Jun/12 Lead dnf

2 attempts lead. go stuck at the top going into the left hand crack. Awesome route, will be back!

with Daniel
Dandan82 17/Jun/12 Lead dog
Linc 17/Jun/12 2nd dnf
Jeronimo 27/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Reasonably close to o/s, quite pleased.

Cailean Harker 12/May/12 Lead RP

Blew the onsite on the last move! Great route

Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead RP
EllaRus 08/Apr/12 Lead RP

2nd go, great route

with john
Tom Heslam 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
matt perks ??/2012 -
Wil Treasure ??/2012 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 15/Oct/11 Lead RP
with Sophie Nunn
catt 01/Oct/11 TR dog

Most moves sussed except the final hard move at the top.

with Hazel
Hidden 01/Oct/11 TR dog
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/11 TR dog
dan gibson 21/Sep/11 Lead RP
with julie carroll
givemetea 16/Sep/11 TR dog

Tried first yesterday and got stuck at 4 different places. Had a second go today and did much better. Now just having a problem going up and right from the good in cut scoops to the side-pull undercut, and the moves around the penultimate bolt. definitely one to come back for.

Dandan82 03/Sep/11 Lead dog
Linc 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Linc 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
jfreeman 12/Aug/11 Lead RP

Second go.

simonr 12/Aug/11 Lead dog

More stamina needed

Wil Treasure 30/Jul/11 TR dog

Awesome, but very sore fingers afterwards. Will return.

Hidden 31/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/11 TR dnf
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Billg 03/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Will Calvert
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead dog
La benya ??/2011 Lead dog

Good! Bottoms harder and the rest is more sustained than racing line, but the crux isn't as hard... Well it might be if you haven't got as long arms as I have.

Kev Little ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
richsmithinbristol 12/Aug/10 Lead RP

Pleased to get this after trying it a couple of years ago. Great route.

Alex Mason 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Well chuffed to get the O/S. Some good moves keeping body close to the wall. Mostly good edges. Brill route.

with Laura Perry, Duncan Campbell, Mikey G
jgustafsson ?/Aug/10 Lead RP

A lot of effort, this one. Think fourth day on it, fell off the last hard move, I don't know, 6 times on redpoint?

with Dave
steve_biczyk 20/Sep/09 Lead dog

Close to O/S, fell once on the crux,didn't have time for another go.

with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
marcpontin ?/Sep/09 Lead RP
with huw
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead RP
schof 15/Jun/09 Lead RP
with joel perry
Marti999 01/Jun/09 Lead β
SiW ?/Jun/09 Lead dog

got the last crimp too far to the right and popped off. So close

eddieclimb 23/May/09 Lead RP

Great route, tough for grade but about right with a few fighting rests... really pleasing tick :)

with Rebecca Edwards
lukea 05/May/09 Lead dog
with Olaf
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead dog
sam_cox 12/Apr/09 Lead

Second go! Thanks Schof for the Beta.

hippo99 12/Apr/09 Lead RP
with andy em zoe
Martin Krasnansky 20/Mar/09 Lead RP

dont climb when its dump:)

trev_f 20/Mar/09 TR dog
with Harry
feilx 16/Nov/08 Lead RP
with Matt Perks
Richard Horn 02/Aug/08 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 16/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Lucy Creamer
dannyboy83 18/May/08 Lead RP
La Mont ??/2008 -
robyn1 ??/2008 -
marky ?/Apr/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Aug/06 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
Paz 19/Nov/05 Lead dog
with FM
John Southworth 08/Jun/02 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2002 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
sadams 01/Aug/98 Lead RP
with Pete Bukowski
Steve Crowe 19/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with KM
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set