Rockfax Description
Well worth seeking out for the interesting geology. There is also a direct start, up the wall right of the arete, at about 7a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now reported to have lost a jug, much harder now or even maybe unclimbable.

FA. Martin Crocker 6.5.89 06/May/1989

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Marti999 05/Nov/17 Lead dnf

Had a look today to see now jug has gone. There is a bouldery sequence with small crimp to flowstone ripple undercut. But makes a very unbalanced route 7a+/7b maybe.

with Debbie
supadupa 26/Mar/17 Lead dnf

We couldn't make any impression past the first bolt now the jug has gone. Unsure of grade. Looks to be a very long span to anything useful?

with Abi Marchent
Hidden 28/Jul/16 Lead dog
Steven1993 06/Jun/16 TR dog
with Anthony, Emily Mobley, Katie Proctor, Amy Hare
RosieYates 05/Apr/16 Lead dnf
John_Beesley 05/Apr/16 Lead RP

Great route but definitely needs a regrade. Had to try really hard to figure out the beta, probs 7a upwards now?

with mop449, Danny Gottschalk
mop449 05/Apr/16 Lead RP

Didn't look on ukc, seemed harder than 6b but still got the harder move 3rd go. Maybe 6c? Still a very fun climb.

samparsons 13/Mar/16 Lead G/U

Haha I came here with a friend and no guide book we climbed by chance all the other 6b's and the 6c+ but this is the only one we had a to work, we both guessed it to be a 7a just because of that move from the flake thing to the face. Fantastic climb though!!!!!

Hidden ??/2016 -
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead dog

Yeah, not 6b anymore then...

with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR dnf

Chose this climb for a warm up...well it definitely warmed us up. Difficult move from the flake up to the next hold, requiring way more strength than I had. Oh well onto the next.

Hugobristol 03/Jun/15 Lead dog

Hard move to get the second bolt.

with Liam
bryan61 17/May/15 Lead dog

rumour is a hold has broken ? certainly felt too hard for 6b

with bogden
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead dog
AdamBrown 03/May/15 Lead O/S

After leading this the next to climb it pulled off a crucial jug. Does this make that mine a last ascent? Hopefully we can resin it back on

trev_f 28/Apr/15 Lead β
philhaigh 28/Apr/15 Lead rpt
philhaigh 09/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/15 Lead
with Alexis Perry
kirtus86 04/Apr/15 Lead β
pezzerrr 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dereke12000 04/Apr/15 TR

Brave start, desperate middle section, hard at the top.

with Rob
rd20 08/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Vince L
BenL 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead
richardashe 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Enjoyed it. Lovely jugs at the start and then delicate stuff from the third clip up. Really enjoyed it!

Constant Solo 19/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Ian Thompson
AlexD 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Sue
Julie Carroll 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
ASchwirtz 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Russ
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 04/May/14 Lead rpt
Russtygibbons ?/May/14 Lead dog
with Ant
Beefy Bert ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
philhaigh 08/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Murray Freestone
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Marti999 26/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Debbie
debbie roberts 26/Apr/13 2nd
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with Steph
Sami Mandeel 16/Jan/13 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Jan/13 Lead RP

Fell off at the bottom trying to keep on the bolt line on the arête. Turns out that way is nails. Sami showed me the proper line. Second go smashed it.

gibsond 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route.

Hidden 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead RP
Barry Kerslake 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Mike G
nataliehaigh 15/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Mike Hawkins, Phil Haigh
philhaigh 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 15/Sep/12 TR O/S
yarrow 24/Aug/12 Lead dog
Coops_13 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really good route :)

DrGav 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic ! Doesn't let up..

with Wendy
Matt250 23/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd dog
tobydunford 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
dan gibson 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with nat tanzer
natalietanzer 23/Mar/12 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
Hidden ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 20/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with bongo
jbulger 20/Aug/11 TR
cooperman 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Greg Foster
Kopinski 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Billg 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

1st clip in. which turned out not to be necessary!

with tomski
La Mont 25/Jun/11 Lead rpt

the direct version

TRFrost 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
with A. Singleton
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Sparky!!!3 20/May/11 Lead β
with alex more
Alex More 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sparky
Ben Harper 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Andy lamont, Felix
feilx 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Marti
jamespilgrim 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
MarkRyder 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with James P
drewclimber 06/Mar/11 TR β
trevor macalonan 05/Mar/11 TR RP
with Drew
Hidden 30/Aug/10 TR
el_Claudio 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
brices 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
JPGR 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
brian watson 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with neil weymouth
Pete Scott 24/Apr/10 Lead RP

7a direct start! Sweet.

Hidden 24/Apr/10 TR dog
J5Kay 22/Apr/10 Lead
jld579 ??/2010 Lead
hippo99 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with rache, joe
briar4012 28/Jul/09 TR dog
with Marti
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
steve taylor 07/Sep/08 Lead dog

Snapped hold at belay - fell most of length of route!

with Brian Wilkinson
bigie bob 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 14/Jul/07 Lead RP
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
goi.ashmore 17/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/02 Lead O/S
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
buzby78 27/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1993 2nd

Approx date

Hidden 24/Sep/92 Lead
Mike Owen 04/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set