14m.

Rockfax Description
Well worth seeking out for the interesting geology. There is also a direct start, up the wall right of the arete, at about 7a. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 06/May/1989

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: this was superb. short but it packs a lot in. for a sport route it felt very memorable. guess it was the added spice of being pretty bold. 2 threads in when i did it. both looked ok but wouldnt have wanted to test em.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this was superb. short but it packs a lot in. for a sport route it felt very memorable. guess it was the added spice of being pretty bold. 2 threads in when i did it. both looked ok but wouldnt have wanted to test em.
purple sue 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well the thread's looking nice and pale through UV degradation already... makes things feel scary on the onsight unil you've clipped the next bolt, since if the thread fails you'd probably be on the ground. Top route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well the thread's looking nice and pale through UV degradation already... makes things feel scary on the onsight unil you've clipped the next bolt, since if the thread fails you'd probably be on the ground. Top route though.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Joe W-O 13 Apr Lead O/S
Joe W-O 13 Apr Lead O/S
Roland stopps 23 Feb Lead dnf I can climb 6b easy but just could not work this one out. Had to pull on a bolt to get up. My friend also could not do it.
I can climb 6b easy but just could not work this one out. Had to pull on a bolt to get up. My friend also could not do it.
Hidden 5 Jan TR
danbooth 21 Oct, 2018 Lead dog OK, so obviously this isn't 6b, but I really like the problem between 1st and 2nd bolt. It'll go but it's very powerful. One to come back to. Note to self, remember to tape up all fingers on right hand before next go. The side pull I went for above the 1st clip has a really sharp point which duly ripped a flapper in the pad of my middle finger.
with Christine
OK, so obviously this isn't 6b, but I really like the problem between 1st and 2nd bolt. It'll go but it's very powerful. One to come back to. Note to self, remember to tape up all fingers on right hand before next go. The side pull I went for above the 1st clip has a really sharp point which duly ripped a flapper in the pad of my middle finger.
with Christine
Paul Hicks 2 Aug, 2018 TR dog
with Rod Pullen
with Rod Pullen
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Philoosh 5 May, 2018 Lead dog Had to pull up on the first clip to reach the side pull but the rest of the route sits at 6b. I'm guessing the desperately needed jug was next to the first clip to help move up to the second. Very not 6b start anymore
Had to pull up on the first clip to reach the side pull but the rest of the route sits at 6b. I'm guessing the desperately needed jug was next to the first clip to help move up to the second. Very not 6b start anymore
alvaroBV ?May, 2018 2nd
RSabin ?Apr, 2018 Lead
alvaroBV ?Apr, 2018 Lead
with RSabin
with RSabin
RSabin ?Jan, 2018 Lead dnf
alvaroBV ?Jan, 2018 2nd
with RSabin
with RSabin
RSabin ??, 2018 Lead dnf
Marti999 5 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf Had a look today to see now jug has gone. There is a bouldery sequence with small crimp to flowstone ripple undercut. But makes a very unbalanced route 7a+/7b maybe.
Had a look today to see now jug has gone. There is a bouldery sequence with small crimp to flowstone ripple undercut. But makes a very unbalanced route 7a+/7b maybe.
supadupa 26 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf We couldn't make any impression past the first bolt now the jug has gone. Unsure of grade. Looks to be a very long span to anything useful?
with Abi Marchent
We couldn't make any impression past the first bolt now the jug has gone. Unsure of grade. Looks to be a very long span to anything useful?
with Abi Marchent
kazoinks 28 Jul, 2016 Lead dog hard - had no idea it was missing a hold.
hard - had no idea it was missing a hold.
Hidden 6 Jun, 2016 TR dog
RosieYates 5 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
John_Beesley 5 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Great route but definitely needs a regrade. Had to try really hard to figure out the beta, probs 7a upwards now?
Great route but definitely needs a regrade. Had to try really hard to figure out the beta, probs 7a upwards now?
mop449 5 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Didn't look on ukc, seemed harder than 6b but still got the harder move 3rd go. Maybe 6c? Still a very fun climb.
Didn't look on ukc, seemed harder than 6b but still got the harder move 3rd go. Maybe 6c? Still a very fun climb.
pymn nice but dim 13 Mar, 2016 2nd
samparsons 13 Mar, 2016 Lead G/U Haha I came here with a friend and no guide book we climbed by chance all the other 6b's and the 6c+ but this is the only one we had a to work, we both guessed it to be a 7a just because of that move from the flake thing to the face. Fantastic climb though!!!!!
Haha I came here with a friend and no guide book we climbed by chance all the other 6b's and the 6c+ but this is the only one we had a to work, we both guessed it to be a 7a just because of that move from the flake thing to the face. Fantastic climb though!!!!!
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Martin Bagshaw 5 Sep, 2015 Lead dog Yeah, not 6b anymore then...
with Tom Hudson, Katsmiff
Yeah, not 6b anymore then...
with Tom Hudson, Katsmiff
Katsmiff 5 Sep, 2015 TR dnf Chose this climb for a warm up...well it definitely warmed us up. Difficult move from the flake up to the next hold, requiring way more strength than I had. Oh well onto the next.
Chose this climb for a warm up...well it definitely warmed us up. Difficult move from the flake up to the next hold, requiring way more strength than I had. Oh well onto the next.
Hugobristol 3 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Hard move to get the second bolt.
with Liam
Hard move to get the second bolt.
with Liam
bryan61 17 May, 2015 Lead dog rumour is a hold has broken ? certainly felt too hard for 6b
with bogden
rumour is a hold has broken ? certainly felt too hard for 6b
with bogden
Hidden 9 May, 2015 Lead dog
AdamBrown 3 May, 2015 Lead O/S After leading this the next to climb it pulled off a crucial jug. Does this make that mine a last ascent? Hopefully we can resin it back on
After leading this the next to climb it pulled off a crucial jug. Does this make that mine a last ascent? Hopefully we can resin it back on
trev_f 28 Apr, 2015 Lead β
philhaigh 28 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
with trev_f
with trev_f
philhaigh 9 Apr, 2015 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 4 Apr, 2015 Lead
with Alexis Perry
with Alexis Perry
kirtus86 4 Apr, 2015 Lead β
pezzerrr 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
dereke12000 4 Apr, 2015 TR Brave start, desperate middle section, hard at the top.
with Rob
Brave start, desperate middle section, hard at the top.
with Rob
rd20 8 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
with Vince L
with Vince L
BenL 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 Lead
richardashe 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Enjoyed it. Lovely jugs at the start and then delicate stuff from the third clip up. Really enjoyed it!
Enjoyed it. Lovely jugs at the start and then delicate stuff from the third clip up. Really enjoyed it!
Constant Solo 19 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with Ian Thompson
with Ian Thompson
AlexD 18 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 10 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
with Dan Gibson
ASchwirtz 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2014 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 4 May, 2014 Lead rpt
Russtygibbons ?May, 2014 Lead dog
Beefy Bert ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
philhaigh 8 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
with Murray Freestone
with Murray Freestone
Hidden 27 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Marti999 26 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt
debbie roberts 26 Apr, 2013 2nd
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16 Feb, 2013 Lead rpt
Sami Mandeel 16 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16 Jan, 2013 Lead RP Fell off at the bottom trying to keep on the bolt line on the arête. Turns out that way is nails. Sami showed me the proper line. Second go smashed it.
Fell off at the bottom trying to keep on the bolt line on the arête. Turns out that way is nails. Sami showed me the proper line. Second go smashed it.
gibsond 7 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome route.
with drewish
Awesome route.
with drewish
Hidden 7 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
Barry Kerslake 22 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Mike G
with Mike G
nataliehaigh 15 Sep, 2012 2nd dog
with Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Mike Hawkins, philhaigh
with Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Mike Hawkins, philhaigh
philhaigh 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung, nataliehaigh
with Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung, nataliehaigh
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 TR O/S
yarrow 24 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
Coops_13 24 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Really good route :)
with yarrow
Really good route :)
with yarrow
DrGav 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Fantastic ! Doesn't let up..
Fantastic ! Doesn't let up..
Matt250 23 Jun, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd dog
tobydunford 19 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
dan gibson 23 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with nat tanzer
with nat tanzer
natalietanzer 23 Mar, 2012 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
with Dan Gibson
Hidden ?Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 20 Aug, 2011 Lead rpt
jbulger 20 Aug, 2011 TR
cooperman 11 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Greg Foster
with Greg Foster
Kopinski 3 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Billg 10 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 1 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S 1st clip in. which turned out not to be necessary!
with tomski3
1st clip in. which turned out not to be necessary!
with tomski3
La Mont 25 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt the direct version
the direct version
TRFrost 14 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
with A. Singleton
with A. Singleton
Hidden 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
mlg678 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 31 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Sparky!!!3 20 May, 2011 Lead β
with alex more
with alex more
Alex More 19 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Sparky
with Sparky
Ben Harper 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with vertigo
with vertigo
Sophie Nunn 17 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Andy lamont, feilx
with Andy lamont, feilx
feilx 17 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 29 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 12 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 12 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
drewclimber 6 Mar, 2011 TR β
trevor macalonan 5 Mar, 2011 TR RP
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 TR
el_Claudio 30 Aug, 2010 Lead dog
brices 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
JPGR 18 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
brian watson 4 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with neil weymouth
with neil weymouth
Pete Scott 24 Apr, 2010 Lead RP 7a direct start! Sweet.
with J5Kay
7a direct start! Sweet.
with J5Kay
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 TR dog
J5Kay 22 Apr, 2010 Lead
jld579 ??, 2010 Lead
hippo99 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with rache, joe
with rache, joe
briar4012 28 Jul, 2009 TR dog
Hidden 2 May, 2009 Lead O/S
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 17 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
steve taylor 7 Sep, 2008 Lead dog Snapped hold at belay - fell most of length of route!
with Brian Wilkinson
Snapped hold at belay - fell most of length of route!
with Brian Wilkinson
bigie bob 28 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 14 Jul, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 26 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?Oct, 2006 -
dannyboy83 ?Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2005 -
goi.ashmore 17 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
with Duncan Powell
Hidden 9 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
John Southworth ??, 2001 -
Hidden ?Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
buzby78 27 May, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 1996 Lead
bruce ??, 1996 -
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??, 1993 2nd Approx date
Approx date
Hidden 24 Sep, 1992 Lead
Mike Owen 4 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
7 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set