200m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
260m. A long route connecting some good bits of rock with short walking sections. Take a small rack.
Approach - From Planpraz, walk up the ski piste towards Brévent for 200m, then turn right, following signs for Lac Cornu. The track splits after a further 200m, and take the left-hand branch, signed 'Lac Cornu' and 'Lacs Noirs'. The path climbs slightly before descending gently to the foot of the route, which is just before the path begins to reclimb up a bouldery section.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the steep wall and a pleasant slab then step left around an arête and climb up the right-facing groove.
2) 4c, 30m. A bouldery move straight off the belay leads to a left-rising traverse. Follow this to a bolt belay in the trees.
Walk down leftwards for 100m to reach a bolt belay at the foot of a corner, below a steep orange wall above.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner before moving right and climbing the slab and steep, juggy wall above. There are no bolts on the steep section, and a medium-sized cam is useful. Belay on the slab above.
4) 4b, 25m. An exposed move from the belay leads to an excellent rising traverse leftwards up a vague groove. Follow this to another belay in the trees.
Descend leftwards for 50m on a vague path and then across a large boulder to reach the foot of a slab.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb the superb slab, drifting rightwards.
6) 4c, 30m. Climb the slab on the right, following it to a ledge with a steep corner on the left and a steep wall on the right. Climb the wall on the right (past two bolts which are difficult to spot from below) and belay above.
7) 4a, 20m. A short, scrappy pitch. Step right and up from the belay to reach the gully. Cross this and climb the rib on the right (two bolts) to a ledge. Walk 10m right to reach another belay.
8) 4c, 25m. There are no bolts for the first 10m (and only two for the pitch) so medium cams may again be useful if this is near your limit. The pitch begins with excellent flakes and then leads left onto a slab followed by the belay.
9) 4a, 25m. Continue up the slab with more bolts than the last pitch, to reach the belay on the underside of a boulder.
Walk off to the left to reach the Clocher-Clochetons path.
It is possible (and worthwhile) to do one more pitch on a small buttress.
10) 5a, 25m. A green slab leads to a steep chimney and another slab. The bolts end at the top of the second slab, but a further 10m of arête follows. The climbing is good but feels spicy given that the upper section is basically a solo! Either abseil off the back to the base, or walk around.
Descent - Walk down to Planpraz on the Clocher de Planpraz approach path. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Elman 12 Sep Lead O/S Led all pitches.
Led all pitches.
JMM 4 Sep Lead Fun route. Unless you cruise VS take some nuts and cams (small to mid size especially).
with Henry Day
Fun route. Unless you cruise VS take some nuts and cams (small to mid size especially).
with Henry Day
grady_9 28 Aug AltLd
with grahamplant
with grahamplant
lewis_james84 24 Aug Lead
AlexDKLaw 17 Aug AltLd
Olliebradbury 14 Aug Lead O/S
with Ellie Cook
with Ellie Cook
Johnathan 5 Aug Lead O/S
Kit Kline 5 Aug AltLd O/S
Oplumb 4 Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Aug AltLd O/S
David Woodward 4 Aug Lead O/S
Merlin 31 Jul AltLd O/S In the sun, missed the optional extra pitch to get the last cable car down.
with Jim
In the sun, missed the optional extra pitch to get the last cable car down.
with Jim
jim_l 31 Jul AltLd O/S
with Merlin
with Merlin
tjockosne 28 Jul -
Hidden 23 Jul Solo O/S
Hidden 18 Jul Lead O/S
doug_l 14 Jul AltLd O/S v enjoyable, despite pushy, arsehole guide climbing through us.
v enjoyable, despite pushy, arsehole guide climbing through us.
Spykesy 13 Jul AltLd First 4 pitches before bailing due to lack of time
First 4 pitches before bailing due to lack of time
Calum3610 6 Jul AltLd
with Andy H AMC
with Andy H AMC
iainJ 4 Jul AltLd O/S Eh. Two pitches worth doing (last and the middle slab) rest is pretty discontinuous but does follow a vague natural line. The fact this gets two stars is a disservice to other two star routes in the valley which are excellent.
Eh. Two pitches worth doing (last and the middle slab) rest is pretty discontinuous but does follow a vague natural line. The fact this gets two stars is a disservice to other two star routes in the valley which are excellent.
ebutton 1 Jul AltLd O/S All 10 pitches in approach shoes
All 10 pitches in approach shoes
carr0t 1 Jul -
lucygreenie 1 Jul AltLd
with ebutton
with ebutton
Conor McNamara ?Jul AltLd O/S Did this with Owen, sang most of the way up
Did this with Owen, sang most of the way up
Harryblake 29 Jun AltLd β
with Alastair Graves
with Alastair Graves
Hidden 29 Jun AltLd
BexSmith 28 Jun Lead
with Isaac Wheatley
with Isaac Wheatley
Hammy-G 27 Jun AltLd
tradisrad 26 Jun AltLd O/S Will led top 4a pitch, me everything else. 2 hours lift to lift.
Will led top 4a pitch, me everything else. 2 hours lift to lift.
Will Sherwood 26 Jun AltLd O/S Fab climbing, cruised.
Fab climbing, cruised.
Audrey LeGrand 24 Jun AltLd
robertpirouet 24 Jun AltLd
EGriffin 23 Jun AltLd O/S Great first ever day in Chamonix! Glorious sun! Busy route with Alpine Club tution going on. Pitches were led by: 1 - Lauren, 2 - Ed, 3 - Lauren, 4 - Oscar, 5 - Ed, 6 - Oscar, 7 - Ed, 8 - Oscar, 9 - Ed, 10 - N/A. Time/busyness did not permit us to do the final extra pitch, we waited in a queue for other groups but eventually did not have enough time to climb it whilst making the last lift.
Great first ever day in Chamonix! Glorious sun! Busy route with Alpine Club tution going on. Pitches were led by: 1 - Lauren, 2 - Ed, 3 - Lauren, 4 - Oscar, 5 - Ed, 6 - Oscar, 7 - Ed, 8 - Oscar, 9 - Ed, 10 - N/A. Time/busyness did not permit us to do the final extra pitch, we waited in a queue for other groups but eventually did not have enough time to climb it whilst making the last lift.
lo22 23 Jun AltLd
OaHolroyd 23 Jun AltLd O/S
Steely12 19 Jun AltLd O/S Great route, lovely weather. Route finding was fine, lead pitches 1,3,5,7,9. We went looking for a bolted belay on the last pitch and added lots of additional faff, ended up belaying from the blocks.
Great route, lovely weather. Route finding was fine, lead pitches 1,3,5,7,9. We went looking for a bolted belay on the last pitch and added lots of additional faff, ended up belaying from the blocks.
Hidden 19 Jun AltLd O/S
James Milton 16 Jun Solo O/S Didn't do last pitch as didn't fancy walking up on the snow
Didn't do last pitch as didn't fancy walking up on the snow
Bex 14 Jun AltLd Ben led 1-5, I led 6-9 and after a faff with 10 Ben finished it off!
with Clare Petrie, Ben Collins
Ben led 1-5, I led 6-9 and after a faff with 10 Ben finished it off!
with Clare Petrie, Ben Collins
Ben Collins 13 Jun AltLd O/S
Si 8 Jun AltLd Top half. Felt a bit scrappy; I'd never give it two stars
Top half. Felt a bit scrappy; I'd never give it two stars
Readi191 8 Jun AltLd
with Liam_T
with Liam_T
Liam_T 8 Jun AltLd
oaty ?Jun AltLd
YsabelBusteed 10 Oct, 2018 AltLd
YsabelBusteed 10 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Dom Garman 10 Oct, 2018 Lead Lead all pitches, pretty fun route and some tasty pitches with no additional cams or protection.
Lead all pitches, pretty fun route and some tasty pitches with no additional cams or protection.
Hidden 31 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
Gemmazrobo 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Classic climb and fly day, got off route and missed some bits but prob fairly similar
with Jake
Classic climb and fly day, got off route and missed some bits but prob fairly similar
with Jake
peater 24 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Dominik, Jakub
with Dominik, Jakub
Horatio Everett 14 Aug, 2018 2nd β
with Wolfgang
with Wolfgang
Hidden 12 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
CameronH 7 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2018 2nd dnf
philippoc93 1 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Oli Flindall
with Oli Flindall
Hidden 26 Jul, 2018 -
Cillian 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Jameshiskett 13 Jul, 2018 -
Piglet69 13 Jul, 2018 2nd
niallsash 13 Jul, 2018 Lead Afternoon start. Unbelievably slow going due to 2 teams ahead. Missed cable car. One hour descent to Cham :-(
Afternoon start. Unbelievably slow going due to 2 teams ahead. Missed cable car. One hour descent to Cham :-(
Aimee Elliott Demay 8 Jul, 2018 -
with jcoup
with jcoup
The9inger 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
jcoup ?Jul, 2018 AltLd
Alex.De ??, 2018 -
ManuelS 13 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Nice route but because of the rain, snow and ice, didn't get any California feeling.
Nice route but because of the rain, snow and ice, didn't get any California feeling.
marjan schoeke 13 Sep, 2017 AltLd
with ManuelS
with ManuelS
davelongbottom 11 Sep, 2017 AltLd First half only - change of plan from another route.
First half only - change of plan from another route.
my 6 Sep, 2017 AltLd Great route, our first in the valley. Half bolted and half on gear, route finding generally fine etc.
Great route, our first in the valley. Half bolted and half on gear, route finding generally fine etc.
Hidden 6 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2017 AltLd
rfleal 5 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
TRodrigues 5 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Just Will 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd rpt Alt Lead all 10 pitches in 1:40 (total time on route including the walks between some of the pitches). Fantastic day for it - warm and sunny. Great to travel so fast.
with Richard Ive
Alt Lead all 10 pitches in 1:40 (total time on route including the walks between some of the pitches). Fantastic day for it - warm and sunny. Great to travel so fast.
with Richard Ive
Just Will 18 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Pleasant day out with Josh. We walked all the way up from the valley after we realised the Planpraz was closed for the morning. A bit of a slog on a roasting day. Pleasant climb - straightforward, generally plenty of bolts. Very relaxing. Thankfully lift open for the way back down.
with Josh Abrahams
Pleasant day out with Josh. We walked all the way up from the valley after we realised the Planpraz was closed for the morning. A bit of a slog on a roasting day. Pleasant climb - straightforward, generally plenty of bolts. Very relaxing. Thankfully lift open for the way back down.
with Josh Abrahams
Emma Charters 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
YellowFellow 13 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
with Olga
with Olga
JagoNeath 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd
67hours 8 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S First half only before last lift down
First half only before last lift down
Rachael88 1 Aug, 2017 2nd
with BStar
with BStar
BStar 1 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Really nice route, take a couple of cams and slings as it's not fully bolted in places. P8 is brilliant, glad it's not bolted all the way up.
Really nice route, take a couple of cams and slings as it's not fully bolted in places. P8 is brilliant, glad it's not bolted all the way up.
c357 23 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
crazy_wolf_girl 22 Jul, 2017 2nd dnf Bottom 2 pitches only
Bottom 2 pitches only
gooberman-hill 22 Jul, 2017 Lead
Richard Alderton 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
EllieWoods 19 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
R0BJ0N 12 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Kellie Grice, Dominic Teichmann
with Kellie Grice, Dominic Teichmann
DomTe 12 Jul, 2017 - Rob and Kel
Rob and Kel
mrphilipoldham 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Pitched all 10 in two hours, alt lead with Rob M and Shep who were on another rope and circumnavigated 5a moves and pulled on bolts (if you believe the angry French guide!) Good climbing, very Welsh.
Pitched all 10 in two hours, alt lead with Rob M and Shep who were on another rope and circumnavigated 5a moves and pulled on bolts (if you believe the angry French guide!) Good climbing, very Welsh.
devious wally 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Nice climbing gorgeous weather for the most part, 2 hours start to finish, very pleased with myself
Nice climbing gorgeous weather for the most part, 2 hours start to finish, very pleased with myself
themattyshep 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Simul
Simul
Rob_Morris1996 11 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Second, but moving together, annoyed a French guide, stood on a bolt to annoy him further, great fun! Drizzled a little on the way up!
Second, but moving together, annoyed a French guide, stood on a bolt to annoy him further, great fun! Drizzled a little on the way up!
AlexD-L 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Ed Lewis
with Ed Lewis
Hidden 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Robbie Blease 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Moved together apart from the last 5a which I led.
with ftocher
Moved together apart from the last 5a which I led.
with ftocher
ftocher 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Simulclimbed in 2:10, very pleasant climbing.
Simulclimbed in 2:10, very pleasant climbing.
Gerben Neven 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf
Duncan 88 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd Walked around pitches 3 and 4 to overtake slow parties in front.
Walked around pitches 3 and 4 to overtake slow parties in front.
Tom.Sedgwick 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
mattwjones ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Anthony Moon
with Anthony Moon
steve_gibbs 28 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Joe Ramsay
with Joe Ramsay
bethr_1997 28 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Louis
with Louis
Ashley King 27 Jun, 2017 AltLd Led pitches 6, 7 and 10. Good route. Walks between crags in annoying but strings together lots of good routes.
Led pitches 6, 7 and 10. Good route. Walks between crags in annoying but strings together lots of good routes.
adawson 27 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
duncanedgley 27 Jun, 2017 AltLd
rosso 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with faye
with faye
faye 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with rosso
with rosso
Lucy Honychurch 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
RhysRolfe 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Last pitch was quite hard but not a solo if you bring some cams and slings it's fairly well protected. Overall the pitches felt slightly hard for there grades. Had a good day non the less
Last pitch was quite hard but not a solo if you bring some cams and slings it's fairly well protected. Overall the pitches felt slightly hard for there grades. Had a good day non the less
mattdennies 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Good and varied climbing with nice approach. Both 5a pitches felt harder than expected, especially the top pitch which was quite awkward.
Good and varied climbing with nice approach. Both 5a pitches felt harder than expected, especially the top pitch which was quite awkward.
James.houghton 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Lovely climbing, felt hard for the grade, especially the last pitch. Led 2,4,6,8,10
Lovely climbing, felt hard for the grade, especially the last pitch. Led 2,4,6,8,10
Jenn_Stretton 14 Jun, 2017 2nd
DaveThexton 14 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
joeramsay ?Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Happy Haggis 7 Sep, 2016 2nd First two pitches.
with Jonny Baird
First two pitches.
with Jonny Baird
Hidden 30 Aug, 2016 Lead
nbryant 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Super hot day, but stunning to be climbing this fun route. Looking forward to doing the Traverse next!
with Luci Veerle
Super hot day, but stunning to be climbing this fun route. Looking forward to doing the Traverse next!
with Luci Veerle
Hidden 21 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S
auld al 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
jac00 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Linda
with Linda
hairy51 22 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Steady climbing, good bolting where it is needed although worth taking small nuts/cams to make some of the moves easier!
Steady climbing, good bolting where it is needed although worth taking small nuts/cams to make some of the moves easier!
Joe Andrews 22 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with hairy51
with hairy51
Hidden 8 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Simon Gompertz 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Ran out of time after 1st 2 sections (4 pitches), nice route
Ran out of time after 1st 2 sections (4 pitches), nice route
jimmy66 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
ChambersPP ?Jul, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Katie S ?Sep, 2015 AltLd
Matt Schwarz ?Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Katie S
with Katie S
tradguy 22 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
mcaterina 22 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with tradguy
with tradguy
gooberman-hill 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Rachael Gooberman-Hill
with Rachael Gooberman-Hill
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 Lead
slw86 ?Aug, 2015 2nd
Alasdair Fulton 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S The bolting is...interesting. Most of the time cams do not help when there are runout sections. Almost as well just leaving them at home and being bold.
with Pollux
The bolting is...interesting. Most of the time cams do not help when there are runout sections. Almost as well just leaving them at home and being bold.
with Pollux
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd
benclimbing 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant route. Gear just where you need it but a bold approach helps! The crux pitch is excellent on wonderful rock
with Edgars, jonskippy
Brilliant route. Gear just where you need it but a bold approach helps! The crux pitch is excellent on wonderful rock
with Edgars, jonskippy
jonskippy 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with benclimbing, Edgars
with benclimbing, Edgars
jimmatthews 1 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
Little AndyH ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
snowcat 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd missed out the first couple of pitches and then did the interesting next three - then down to get the lift
with Lindsay Griffin
missed out the first couple of pitches and then did the interesting next three - then down to get the lift
with Lindsay Griffin
slw86 ?Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead
Hidden 30 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
wiibaker 30 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd
emilyjhunt ?Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Jaspar Topham
with Jaspar Topham
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 Lead
jcw ??, 2014 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2013 Lead
YellowFellow 18 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Olga
with Olga
agagsgrot 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Nice route or at least what we did of it. Bailed out at P5. Tom realised he hadn't packed his approach shoes so we went to get them.
with Thomas
Nice route or at least what we did of it. Bailed out at P5. Tom realised he hadn't packed his approach shoes so we went to get them.
with Thomas
mrmattwright 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Great 9 pitch route with a bit of everything, slabs, traverses, cracks and a bit of crimping to boot. Bit of a sandbag route with some airy moves and long runouts, but totally recommended for a day out! Lots of leading by Sarah too. Solid effort.
with Sarah Foxton
Great 9 pitch route with a bit of everything, slabs, traverses, cracks and a bit of crimping to boot. Bit of a sandbag route with some airy moves and long runouts, but totally recommended for a day out! Lots of leading by Sarah too. Solid effort.
with Sarah Foxton
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
alan1234 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Mr. K 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Chris_Mullaney 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
maria85 3 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 1/2/5/8/9 - ran several pitches together.
with Jules
Led 1/2/5/8/9 - ran several pitches together.
with Jules
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 Lead
shah ??, 2012 Lead O/S Great climb; ok for boots.
Great climb; ok for boots.
tompilgrem 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Great day out - did all 10 pitches in 3 hours, 12-3. Lead 1/3/5/7/8/10. Nice end to a great 3 weeks in Cham! Pitches 8,9,10 were awesome.
Great day out - did all 10 pitches in 3 hours, 12-3. Lead 1/3/5/7/8/10. Nice end to a great 3 weeks in Cham! Pitches 8,9,10 were awesome.
bobpilgrem 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S top 3 pitches are very good.
top 3 pitches are very good.
Hidden 1 Aug, 2011 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
KatieG ?Jun, 2011 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?Oct, 2010 AltLd
with torquil
with torquil
Hidden ?Oct, 2010 AltLd
igneouscarl ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S constitutes 9 main pitches in a block of 2, 2, 5 with a final 10th at top. Bottom 2 blocks can easily be missed for a shorter route but they were good fun.
constitutes 9 main pitches in a block of 2, 2, 5 with a final 10th at top. Bottom 2 blocks can easily be missed for a shorter route but they were good fun.
Ashley Hold ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
PeteH 10 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
DaveLeonard 10 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with PeteH
with PeteH
mark88 9 Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Craig Fisher, Alex Vaughan
with Craig Fisher, Alex Vaughan
fish219 9 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with mark88
with mark88
vaughany 9 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S V Sunny
with craig fisher, mark patterson
V Sunny
with craig fisher, mark patterson
cham749 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Burbridge
with Charlie Burbridge
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Trobbo 2 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with martin bennett
with martin bennett
Martin Bennett 2 Sep, 2009 -
with Trobbo
with Trobbo
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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set