UKC

200m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
260m. A long route connecting some good bits of rock with short walking sections. Take a small rack.
Approach - From Planpraz, walk up the ski piste towards Brévent for 200m, then turn right, following signs for Lac Cornu. The track splits after a further 200m, and take the left-hand branch, signed 'Lac Cornu' and 'Lacs Noirs'. The path climbs slightly before descending gently to the foot of the route, which is just before the path begins to reclimb up a bouldery section.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the steep wall and a pleasant slab then step left around an arête and climb up the right-facing groove.
2) 4c, 30m. A bouldery move straight off the belay leads to a left-rising traverse. Follow this to a bolt belay in the trees.
Walk down leftwards for 100m to reach a bolt belay at the foot of a corner, below a steep orange wall above.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner before moving right and climbing the slab and steep, juggy wall above. There are no bolts on the steep section, and a medium-sized cam is useful. Belay on the slab above.
4) 4b, 25m. An exposed move from the belay leads to an excellent rising traverse leftwards up a vague groove. Follow this to another belay in the trees.
Descend leftwards for 50m on a vague path and then across a large boulder to reach the foot of a slab.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb the superb slab, drifting rightwards.
6) 4c, 30m. Climb the slab on the right, following it to a ledge with a steep corner on the left and a steep wall on the right. Climb the wall on the right (past two bolts which are difficult to spot from below) and belay above.
7) 4a, 20m. A short, scrappy pitch. Step right and up from the belay to reach the gully. Cross this and climb the rib on the right (two bolts) to a ledge. Walk 10m right to reach another belay.
8) 4c, 25m. There are no bolts for the first 10m (and only two for the pitch) so medium cams may again be useful if this is near your limit. The pitch begins with excellent flakes and then leads left onto a slab followed by the belay.
9) 4a, 25m. Continue up the slab with more bolts than the last pitch, to reach the belay on the underside of a boulder.
Walk off to the left to reach the Clocher-Clochetons path.
It is possible (and worthwhile) to do one more pitch on a small buttress.
10) 5a, 25m. A green slab leads to a steep chimney and another slab. The bolts end at the top of the second slab, but a further 10m of arête follows. The climbing is good but feels spicy given that the upper section is basically a solo! Either abseil off the back to the base, or walk around.
Descent - Walk down to Planpraz on the Clocher de Planpraz approach path. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
ManuelS 13/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Nice route but because of the rain, snow and ice, didn't get any California feeling.

Hidden 06/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
rfleal 05/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
67hours 08/Aug/17 Lead O/S

First half only before last lift down

with Oweeeen
Rachael88 01/Aug/17 2nd
with Adam
BStar 01/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Really nice route, take a couple of cams and slings as it's not fully bolted in places. P8 is brilliant, glad it's not bolted all the way up.

with Rachael
c357 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S
EVECLIMB 22/Jul/17 2nd dnf

Bottom 2 pitches only

with Dad
gooberman-hill 22/Jul/17 Lead
Richard Alderton 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Ellie
EllieWoods 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Rich
R0BJ0N 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Kellie Grice, Dominic Teichmann
DomTe 12/Jul/17 -

Rob and Kel

mrphilipoldham 11/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Pitched all 10 in two hours, alt lead with Rob M and Shep who were on another rope and circumnavigated 5a moves and pulled on bolts (if you believe the angry French guide!) Good climbing, very Welsh.

devious wally 11/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing gorgeous weather for the most part, 2 hours start to finish, very pleased with myself

themattyshep 11/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Simul

Rob_Morris1996 11/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Second, but moving together, annoyed a French guide, stood on a bolt to annoy him further, great fun! Drizzled a little on the way up!

with Theo Hayne, themattyshep
AlexD-L 10/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Ed Lewis
Hidden 10/Jul/17 AltLd
Robbie Blease 07/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Moved together apart from the last 5a which I led.

with Francis
ftocher 07/Jul/17 AltLd

Simulclimbed in 2:10, very pleasant climbing.

Gerben Neven 05/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/17 Lead dnf
Duncan 88 05/Jul/17 AltLd

Walked around pitches 3 and 4 to overtake slow parties in front.

Tom.Sedgwick 05/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 28/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Joe Ramsay
bethr_1997 28/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Louis
Ashley King 27/Jun/17 AltLd

Led pitches 6, 7 and 10. Good route. Walks between crags in annoying but strings together lots of good routes.

adawson 27/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
duncanedgley 27/Jun/17 AltLd
rosso 26/Jun/17 AltLd
with Faye
faye 26/Jun/17 AltLd
Lucy Honychurch 23/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
RhysRolfe 23/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Last pitch was quite hard but not a solo if you bring some cams and slings it's fairly well protected. Overall the pitches felt slightly hard for there grades. Had a good day non the less

with Lucy H
mattdennies 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Good and varied climbing with nice approach. Both 5a pitches felt harder than expected, especially the top pitch which was quite awkward.

James.houghton 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Lovely climbing, felt hard for the grade, especially the last pitch. Led 2,4,6,8,10

Jenn_Stretton 14/Jun/17 2nd
DaveThexton 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
joeramsay ?/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Happy Haggis 07/Sep/16 2nd

First two pitches.

with Jonny Baird
Hidden 30/Aug/16 Lead
nbryant 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Super hot day, but stunning to be climbing this fun route. Looking forward to doing the Traverse next!

with Luci Veerle
Hidden 21/Aug/16 Solo O/S
auld al 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
jac00 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Linda
hairy51 22/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Steady climbing, good bolting where it is needed although worth taking small nuts/cams to make some of the moves easier!

10029759 22/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Simon Gompertz 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Ran out of time after 1st 2 sections (4 pitches), nice route

ChambersPP ?/Jul/16 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 08/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Katie S ?/Sep/15 AltLd
Matt Schwarz ?/Sep/15 AltLd
with katie
tradguy 22/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
mcaterina 22/Aug/15 AltLd
gooberman-hill 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Rachael Gooberman-Hill
Wiseman ?/Aug/15 2nd
Alasdair Fulton 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

The bolting is...interesting. Most of the time cams do not help when there are runout sections. Almost as well just leaving them at home and being bold.

with Bella
Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd
benclimbing 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. Gear just where you need it but a bold approach helps! The crux pitch is excellent on wonderful rock

with Edgars, jonskippy
jonskippy 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Ben Cooling, Edgars
jimmatthews 01/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Little AndyH ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
snowcat 03/Jul/14 AltLd

missed out the first couple of pitches and then did the interesting next three - then down to get the lift

with Lindsay Griffin
Wiseman ?/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
wiibaker 30/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/14 AltLd
emilyjhunt ?/Jun/14 AltLd
with Jaspar Topham
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead
agagsgrot 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Nice route or at least what we did of it. Bailed out at P5. Tom realised he hadn't packed his approach shoes so we went to get them.

with Thomas
mrmattwright 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Great 9 pitch route with a bit of everything, slabs, traverses, cracks and a bit of crimping to boot. Bit of a sandbag route with some airy moves and long runouts, but totally recommended for a day out! Lots of leading by Sarah too. Solid effort.

with Sarah Foxton
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
alan1234 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
csalvage 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2,4,6,8 fully equipped but both of us added one piece of gear at one point just cod bolts a bit spaced. 1.25 cam and small nut. Steep and juggy, slabs and a lovely move on last pitch

with Bryan
Mr. K 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Chris_Mullaney 06/Sep/12 AltLd
with Mr. K
maria85 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1/2/5/8/9 - ran several pitches together.

with Jules
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
shah ??/2012 Lead O/S

Great climb; ok for boots.

tompilgrem 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Great day out - did all 10 pitches in 3 hours, 12-3. Lead 1/3/5/7/8/10. Nice end to a great 3 weeks in Cham! Pitches 8,9,10 were awesome.

with Dad
bobpilgrem 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

top 3 pitches are very good.

with Bob/Tom
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
KatieG ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd
igneouscarl ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

constitutes 9 main pitches in a block of 2, 2, 5 with a final 10th at top. Bottom 2 blocks can easily be missed for a shorter route but they were good fun.

Ashley Hold ?/Sep/10 AltLd
PeteH 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
DaveLeonard 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with PeteH
mark88 09/Aug/10 AltLd
with Craig Fisher, Alex Vaughan
fish219 09/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with mark88
vaughany 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

V Sunny

with craig fisher, mark patterson
cham749 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Burbridge
Hidden ??/2010 -
Trobbo 02/Sep/09 AltLd
with martin bennett
Martin Bennett 02/Sep/09 -
with Terry Rob
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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 10
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set