30m.

Rockfax Description
One of the longest lines on Portland up a huge pillar. The reach symbol is for clipping the bolts (tip - do No Place for Mambas first and place the clips on your way down). © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 13.8.89 13/Aug/1989

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, Portland 7a/+

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Si Witcher 19 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I onsighted this yesterday, placing the clips, and thought it was fairly graded for a cruxy (2 bolts worth of hard climbing) 7a+. The hardest move was clipping a bolt though!
βeta?
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βeta: I onsighted this yesterday, placing the clips, and thought it was fairly graded for a cruxy (2 bolts worth of hard climbing) 7a+. The hardest move was clipping a bolt though!
Ben Stokes 25 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the comments above - very unbalanced
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the comments above - very unbalanced
marky 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is never 7a+.I think the undercut flake has broken making it a very unbalanced route. More like 7b?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is never 7a+.I think the undercut flake has broken making it a very unbalanced route. More like 7b?
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
gem_stone12 10 Apr TR dog
nimajneb ?Apr Lead O/S
samparsons 20 Jan Lead dog Awesome line!
Awesome line!
Dandan 2 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S I used the right hand side pull but checked on the way down and there are a series of sidepull holds to the left of the draw too which I think was the original intention of the route. Both versions seemed similar in difficulty to me.
I used the right hand side pull but checked on the way down and there are a series of sidepull holds to the left of the draw too which I think was the original intention of the route. Both versions seemed similar in difficulty to me.
Rockmonkey1977 15 Oct, 2017 Lead dog A very strange route. Basically a jug ladder leads to a crux with bad feet and an out of reach clip (even with extended qd’s). Am I doing it wrong? It seems as if the bolt at the start of the crux is deliberately placed to prevent use of the right hand flake side pull but without it the move seems way too hard for 7a+. I still enjoyed it but really don’t quite know what to make of it. And I’m still not sure whether that right side pull is ‘allowed’
A very strange route. Basically a jug ladder leads to a crux with bad feet and an out of reach clip (even with extended qd’s). Am I doing it wrong? It seems as if the bolt at the start of the crux is deliberately placed to prevent use of the right hand flake side pull but without it the move seems way too hard for 7a+. I still enjoyed it but really don’t quite know what to make of it. And I’m still not sure whether that right side pull is ‘allowed’
Hidden 16 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 16 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Would have probably made it if I had another go, wanted to save a bit of energy for Arianne V.
Would have probably made it if I had another go, wanted to save a bit of energy for Arianne V.
philhaigh 15 May, 2016 Lead RP Using the right hand option
Using the right hand option
Hidden ??, 2016 -
dswansonlow 10 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
jonleighton 14 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Quite shit!
Quite shit!
quiffhanger 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Not a great climb. Confusing hard crux - maybe strayed too far right but v eliminate otherwise.
Not a great climb. Confusing hard crux - maybe strayed too far right but v eliminate otherwise.
philhaigh 29 Apr, 2014 2nd dog
with Shamina
with Shamina
3 Names 25 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
LeahJamie 18 Aug, 2012 TR crux was confusing... left or right? is far right in?
with Ian Bell
crux was confusing... left or right? is far right in?
with Ian Bell
Ian Bell 18 Aug, 2012 TR O/S Maybe strayed a bit far right on the crux.
with Leah
Maybe strayed a bit far right on the crux.
with Leah
bigie bob 10 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 14 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ivan
with Ivan
dan gibson 26 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
with nat tanzer
with nat tanzer
natalietanzer 26 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
with Dan Gibson
with Dan Gibson
Billg 10 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
feilx 17 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 1 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
with gabriel
with gabriel
Hidden 1 Sep, 2010 Lead dog
Ed Babs 19 May, 2010 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
Alex More 15 May, 2010 TR dog
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
jan.prostrednik 14 May, 2010 Lead dog
with Runkasova Jana
with Runkasova Jana
hippo99 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with rache, joe, morgan
with rache, joe, morgan
Martin Krasnansky 2 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
La Mont ??, 2009 -
Richard Horn 10 Aug, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Jane Weir 15 May, 2005 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Robmwatt ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1998 Lead dog
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set