Rockfax Description
One of the longest lines on Portland up a huge pillar. The reach symbol is for clipping the bolts (tip - do No Place for Mambas first and place the clips on your way down). © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 13.8.89 13/Aug/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

Rockmonkey1977 15/Oct/17 Lead dog

A very strange route. Basically a jug ladder leads to a crux with bad feet and an out of reach clip (even with extended qd’s). Am I doing it wrong? It seems as if the bolt at the start of the crux is deliberately placed to prevent use of the right hand flake side pull but without it the move seems way too hard for 7a+. I still enjoyed it but really don’t quite know what to make of it. And I’m still not sure whether that right side pull is ‘allowed’

Hidden 16/Apr/17 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 16/Apr/17 Lead dog

Would have probably made it if I had another go, wanted to save a bit of energy for Arianne V.

philhaigh 15/May/16 Lead RP

Using the right hand option

Hidden ??/2016 -
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Alex Banks
jonleighton 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Quite shit!

quiffhanger 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Not a great climb. Confusing hard crux - maybe strayed too far right but v eliminate otherwise.

philhaigh 29/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Shamina Kapadia
3 Names 25/Aug/13 Lead dnf
LeahJamie 18/Aug/12 TR

crux was confusing... left or right? is far right in?

with Ian Bell
Ian Bell 18/Aug/12 TR O/S

Maybe strayed a bit far right on the crux.

with Leah
bigie bob 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Ivan
dan gibson 26/Mar/12 Lead RP
with nat tanzer
natalietanzer 26/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Dan Gibson
Billg 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
feilx 17/Apr/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 01/Sep/10 Lead dnf
with gabriel
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead dog
Ed Babs 19/May/10 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
Alex More 15/May/10 TR dog
with Mike Hawkins
jan.prostrednik 14/May/10 Lead dog
with Runkasova Jana
hippo99 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with rache, joe, morgan
Martin Krasnansky 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
La Mont ??/2009 -
Richard Horn 10/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Jane Weir 15/May/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2001 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/98 Lead dog
4 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set