200m.

Rockfax Description
A great if slightly harder alternative to the popular routes on Torre Piccola. Start at the base of a corner-crack with a cemented peg on the left, just right of a line of bolts.
1) IV, 40m. Climb the corner to its end, then follow grassy terraces to the top of a small pillar. Belay on a cemented peg.
2) III, 25m. Climb diagonally left then follow a vegetated ramp back right. Belay below a slab.
3) IV, 40m. Climb direct from the belay to a corner. Climb this then exit right at half-height over easier ground. Belay just right of the base of a second smaller corner.
4) III, 25m. Move diagonally right easily over vegetated ground towards a small gully. Follow this to the arete then continue direct over vegetated rock to the stance.
5) IV, 35m. Climb a slab just left of the arete. The going is steep at first but becomes easier over grassy rock. Continue past shrubs to a grassy gully on the left. It is possible to exit left here via a metal cable to reach the saddle between the two towers.
6) V-, 30m. Climb the excellent featured slab above the belay right then back left towards the arete. Move back right, aiming for a dead tree, belaying just before it.
7) V-, 15m. Traverse 6m left from the belay then continue left to a good ledge.
8) IV+, 35m. Climb a vertical crack for a few metres then move right into an open gully. Climb past a chockstone and belay by a flake on the right below the a yellow corner.
9) V, 30m. Climb a succession of chimneys and cracks formed by the detached yellow pillar above and left of the belay. Belay at the top of the pillar.
10) V+, 25m. Bridge across to the main face and continue up the polished slab to a small ledge. Climb direct, keeping just left of a deep crack then continue on easier but shattered rock moving left. Belay on a cemented peg on the ridge.
11) I, 50m. Climb easy ground to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
first 5 pitches does not go much above IV (HS4B ish) however, second 5 pitches is where the fun begins.

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
perrys 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Rachel Singleton, Tony Hextall
with Rachel Singleton, Tony Hextall
wobrotson 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Nadia
with Nadia
Hidden 25 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Alex Thomson 14 Jul, 2018 Lead
with jenpen
with jenpen
RocKalina 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Pulled sling on first move on last pitch. Didn't want to faff as there was chat of incoming rain which never happened... Still pretty happy to have lead a grade V which it comes to with aid.
Pulled sling on first move on last pitch. Didn't want to faff as there was chat of incoming rain which never happened... Still pretty happy to have lead a grade V which it comes to with aid.
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 2nd
Puma 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Jamie Brown 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led even pitches
with Puma
Led even pitches
with Puma
hannahlee15 15 Sep, 2017 AltLd dnf Bailed after pitch 5 due to incoming weather. John led pitches 1-4, I led pitch 5.
with John Wallbank
Bailed after pitch 5 due to incoming weather. John led pitches 1-4, I led pitch 5.
with John Wallbank
malone 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Appleby
with Appleby
Appleby 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with malone
with malone
Hidden 29 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
williap 29 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S ace route, pitches 6,7,9 really excellent. Led 6 & 9. Crux pitch 10 has a 'stopper' starting move but aid available
ace route, pitches 6,7,9 really excellent. Led 6 & 9. Crux pitch 10 has a 'stopper' starting move but aid available
Hidden 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
MrRiley 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Top half amazing, bottom half so so. Chimney is bonkers but we thought well protected with camalots 1-3 and pegs, apart from moves to belay. Last pitch has a burly move but then straight forward. Great day! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Top half amazing, bottom half so so. Chimney is bonkers but we thought well protected with camalots 1-3 and pegs, apart from moves to belay. Last pitch has a burly move but then straight forward. Great day! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Debbie Lee 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd Moved quickly through the bottom half. The chimney is one of the craziest things I've ever climbed! Found a decent amount of protection, more than expected from the bottom, including a couple of hidden pegs. Being a shortie I found moving on to the next pitch quite tricky.
with MrRiley
Moved quickly through the bottom half. The chimney is one of the craziest things I've ever climbed! Found a decent amount of protection, more than expected from the bottom, including a couple of hidden pegs. Being a shortie I found moving on to the next pitch quite tricky.
with MrRiley
kingjam 5 Jul, 2016 AltLd Took some serious diversions following up a sports route at mid height and finishing up broken horrible crumbling rock
with Matt Naylor
Took some serious diversions following up a sports route at mid height and finishing up broken horrible crumbling rock
with Matt Naylor
RobScarisbrick 5 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
cdpuk 5 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together at 15mims a pitch for the first five. Struggled with route finding a little after this but it was fine in the end. I led after this. Poor gear in chimney but memorable. Top was easier.
Moved together at 15mims a pitch for the first five. Struggled with route finding a little after this but it was fine in the end. I led after this. Poor gear in chimney but memorable. Top was easier.
maria85 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd
masa-alpin 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead P1, P3, P6, P8, P10, Patrick did P2, P4-5 (moving together), P7, P9. Climbed under 3 hours. P9 is loose and so is scary. The opening move in P10 is a hard 5b for shorties (can be aided at A0, allegedly). The feeling to top out to the summit of the tower is nice, but P9 is disappointing. I'd say 1-2 stars.
with Pat-H
I lead P1, P3, P6, P8, P10, Patrick did P2, P4-5 (moving together), P7, P9. Climbed under 3 hours. P9 is loose and so is scary. The opening move in P10 is a hard 5b for shorties (can be aided at A0, allegedly). The feeling to top out to the summit of the tower is nice, but P9 is disappointing. I'd say 1-2 stars.
with Pat-H
Pat-H ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Masa
with Masa
brockers 22 Aug, 2015 AltLd Led last 2 pitches and the V- traverse. Good route, spoilt by the number of slow people above is we had to wait for!
Led last 2 pitches and the V- traverse. Good route, spoilt by the number of slow people above is we had to wait for!
Cheese Monkey 28 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led top 5/6 pitches. Chimney was scary! Some really good pitches, plenty of fixed gear.
with Iain
Led top 5/6 pitches. Chimney was scary! Some really good pitches, plenty of fixed gear.
with Iain
Batt 26 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Great. 4-5 fairly rubbish pitches lower down but the top half was ace. I got the step off the pillar at the top but I think the crack below it was harder! We were 3rd in the queue at 9am!
with Hoyes
Great. 4-5 fairly rubbish pitches lower down but the top half was ace. I got the step off the pillar at the top but I think the crack below it was harder! We were 3rd in the queue at 9am!
with Hoyes
Hoyes 26 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Batt
with Batt
bigbobbyking 22 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Did an alternative route after pitch 3, taking a direct bolted line. Got a bit lost finding the traverse. Chimney pitch at the top very memorable! Hardly any gear and end up belaying at the top of a pinnacle on a wobbly peg!
with Chris Bull
Did an alternative route after pitch 3, taking a direct bolted line. Got a bit lost finding the traverse. Chimney pitch at the top very memorable! Hardly any gear and end up belaying at the top of a pinnacle on a wobbly peg!
with Chris Bull
chrisallan 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
cameron_hall 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Absolutely excellent climb, probably my favourite of the trip. We did the first two conventional pitches in three thanks to some confusion on where the anchors were meant to be; I led the even pitches of our climb, roughly corresponding to pitches 1-2, 3, 5, 7, 9 of the conventional numbering. Traverse on P7 felt very difficult, possibly because we went too high. The vertical face on P6 and the chimney on P9 were extremely memorable and great climbing.
Absolutely excellent climb, probably my favourite of the trip. We did the first two conventional pitches in three thanks to some confusion on where the anchors were meant to be; I led the even pitches of our climb, roughly corresponding to pitches 1-2, 3, 5, 7, 9 of the conventional numbering. Traverse on P7 felt very difficult, possibly because we went too high. The vertical face on P6 and the chimney on P9 were extremely memorable and great climbing.
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 -
tjekel 7 Jun, 2014 -
dickie01 27 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Goes at V+ with an optional A0 section, but not to hard to free, bout 5a
with Julian King
Goes at V+ with an optional A0 section, but not to hard to free, bout 5a
with Julian King
Hidden 25 Aug, 2009 -
Hidden 4 Sep, 2007 2nd
4 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set