Rockfax Description
A powerful pull through the initial overhang is followed by far more pleasant climbing above. Start just to the left of an overhung sentry-box. Heave over the low overhang and ascend the wall above to twin corners in the upper wall. Finish via the left corner, turning the final overhang on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Tilley 13.7.89. Brian’s finest new route. 13/Jul/1989

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

nacnud 06/May Lead O/S
chancer 06/May Lead dog
with Marc Duhig
marcduhig 14/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with pep
Hidden 10/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Kevster 03/Jun/17 Lead dog

Ruined by the start! I'm so much not a thug. If it was indoors I'd grumble about the route setting. The top section was very enjoyable, though easy.

with Gavdee1
kennythescot 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Gav A
Rockmonkey1977 ?/Jun/17 Lead dog

Hmmm. I simply couldn't work out how to start this route. The only method I could contemplate working felt more like a 7b+ move (which I still couldn't do...). Think I was massively mis-reading/missing something. Pulled through the move with the pre-clipped 1st QD then went straight to the top via pleasant climbing (6b+ish). Will have to come back to this another day and see if I can suss it!

artmal 20/May/17 Lead β
with Anna
tsyrett 07/May/17 Lead β
merlin138 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Super powerful start, really bouldery and much easier for the tall. Middle section cruisey and straight forward. The upper groove/corner us great and the head wall to the chains is fun, if a little hard to read. Fun route if you aren't put off by the start.

brian watson 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Very good (tricky start)

with Ed Babs
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead β
JackMac 14/Aug/16 Lead dog

One awkward blind move into juggy 6a+ climbing. Not a 2 star route IMO - very unbalanced.

with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
Zakko 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Psychhhhhh! Bit sandy and shitty at the bottom. First 6C finally!! Cool roof move at start with a foot jam in horizontal crack. Much easier after the crux.

with Dronz
Hidden 16/Jul/16 Lead dog
mikespooner 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Really awesome top section, would probably get 3

with RKirke
RKirke 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/Jun/16 Lead β
Flavio 01/May/16 Lead O/S
with EllieM
MichaelGallimore 29/Apr/16 TR dog

Greasy conditions, fell on the roof moves a few times then moved into the wet arête at the top, stunning climbing in a great position

with Flavio, Ben Philips
Hidden ??/2016 -
ThomasB ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
philhaigh 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Aarron Schofield, Shamina Kapadia, Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead G/U
Hidden 29/Jun/14 -
Hidden 01/Jun/14 TR O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead RP
Ali 24/Aug/13 Lead RP
with yellow
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 20/Oct/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 30/Sep/11 Lead dnf

that start is hard!

with Rupey
Luke Dawson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Daniel Wicks 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
Hidden 14/May/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with vertigo
Ed Babs 28/May/09 Lead RP

gull attack! nest at the lower off

with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
bigie bob 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/2008 -
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
Hidden 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
feilx 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Rin
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 -
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
steveb2006 08/Sep/02 Lead

Also Grez - all lead

with Paul E
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 -
duncan 20/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 06/Apr/96 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 -
Hidden ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
6 users have this on their wishlist
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set