29m.

Rockfax Description
A powerful pull through the initial overhang is followed by far more pleasant climbing above. Start just to the left of an overhung sentry-box. Heave over the low overhang and ascend the wall above to twin corners in the upper wall. Finish via the left corner, turning the final overhang on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Tilley 13.7.89. Brian’s finest new route. 13/Jul/1989

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
adamsriches 12 May Lead dnf
with dryvita
with dryvita
john lynch 5 May Lead O/S
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
Bethan May Davies 5 May Lead dog Had to aid the start boulder problem! Horrible and reachy, not my cup of tea. Rest of the route fine but not as enchanted as I'd hoped to be!
Had to aid the start boulder problem! Horrible and reachy, not my cup of tea. Rest of the route fine but not as enchanted as I'd hoped to be!
dmoir 8 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U Pulled a hold off at the last bolt!
with dbrooks
Pulled a hold off at the last bolt!
with dbrooks
Rad Elliot 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Got through the hard lower moves with great effort then decided to go off route before the last anchor and fell off. Wally
with abrooks
Got through the hard lower moves with great effort then decided to go off route before the last anchor and fell off. Wally
with abrooks
dbrooks 28 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Elliot, abrooks
with Elliot, abrooks
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
nacnud 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
chancer 6 May, 2018 Lead dog
with Marc Duhig
with Marc Duhig
marcduhig 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
nimajneb ?Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 10 Jun, 2017 Lead β
Kevster 3 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Ruined by the start! I'm so much not a thug. If it was indoors I'd grumble about the route setting. The top section was very enjoyable, though easy.
with Gavdee1
Ruined by the start! I'm so much not a thug. If it was indoors I'd grumble about the route setting. The top section was very enjoyable, though easy.
with Gavdee1
kennythescot 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Gav A
with Gav A
Rockmonkey1977 ?Jun, 2017 Lead dog Hmmm. I simply couldn't work out how to start this route. The only method I could contemplate working felt more like a 7b+ move (which I still couldn't do...). Think I was massively mis-reading/missing something. Pulled through the move with the pre-clipped 1st QD then went straight to the top via pleasant climbing (6b+ish). Will have to come back to this another day and see if I can suss it!
Hmmm. I simply couldn't work out how to start this route. The only method I could contemplate working felt more like a 7b+ move (which I still couldn't do...). Think I was massively mis-reading/missing something. Pulled through the move with the pre-clipped 1st QD then went straight to the top via pleasant climbing (6b+ish). Will have to come back to this another day and see if I can suss it!
artmal 20 May, 2017 Lead β
with Anna
with Anna
tsyrett 7 May, 2017 Lead β
merlin138 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Super powerful start, really bouldery and much easier for the tall. Middle section cruisey and straight forward. The upper groove/corner us great and the head wall to the chains is fun, if a little hard to read. Fun route if you aren't put off by the start.
Super powerful start, really bouldery and much easier for the tall. Middle section cruisey and straight forward. The upper groove/corner us great and the head wall to the chains is fun, if a little hard to read. Fun route if you aren't put off by the start.
brian watson 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Very good (tricky start)
with Ed Babs
Very good (tricky start)
with Ed Babs
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 Lead β
JackMac 14 Aug, 2016 Lead dog One awkward blind move into juggy 6a+ climbing. Not a 2 star route IMO - very unbalanced.
with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
One awkward blind move into juggy 6a+ climbing. Not a 2 star route IMO - very unbalanced.
with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
Zakko 16 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Psychhhhhh! Bit sandy and shitty at the bottom. First 6C finally!! Cool roof move at start with a foot jam in horizontal crack. Much easier after the crux.
with Dronz
Psychhhhhh! Bit sandy and shitty at the bottom. First 6C finally!! Cool roof move at start with a foot jam in horizontal crack. Much easier after the crux.
with Dronz
Dronz 16 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
with Zakko
with Zakko
mikespooner 11 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Really awesome top section, would probably get 3
with RKirke
Really awesome top section, would probably get 3
with RKirke
RKirke 11 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
AlexD 3 Jun, 2016 Lead β
Flavio 1 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with EllieM
with EllieM
Hidden 29 Apr, 2016 TR dog
Hidden ??, 2016 -
ThomasB ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
philhaigh 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Aarron Schofield, Shamina, Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung
with Aarron Schofield, Shamina, Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 -
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 TR O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2014 Lead dnf
Hidden ?May, 2014 -
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
Ali 24 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
with yellow
with yellow
Adam Booth 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
dan gibson 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
with julie carroll, helen gibson
Hidden 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 20 Oct, 2011 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 30 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf that start is hard!
with Rupey
that start is hard!
with Rupey
Luke Dawson 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ivan
with Ivan
Daniel Wicks 27 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with marcus
with marcus
Hidden 14 May, 2010 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with vertigo
with vertigo
Ed Babs 28 May, 2009 Lead RP gull attack! nest at the lower off
with Mike Hawkins
gull attack! nest at the lower off
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 22 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
bigie bob 3 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??, 2008 -
tonanf ?Nov, 2007 AltLd RP
with Pep
with Pep
Hidden 14 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 8 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
feilx 26 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rin
with Rin
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 -
goi.ashmore 13 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
with Andy Howe
Hidden 8 Sep, 2002 Lead
Hidden ?May, 2001 Lead O/S
John Southworth ??, 2001 -
Hidden ??, 2001 -
duncan 20 May, 2000 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
with Phillipe
Robmwatt ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 10 Apr, 1996 AltLd
Hidden 6 Apr, 1996 Lead
bruce ??, 1996 -
Hidden ?Oct, 1995 Lead O/S
Neil McA 9 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
with Beak 2, Andy Perkins, Greg Cunningham
with Beak 2, Andy Perkins, Greg Cunningham
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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set