Rockfax Description
An incredible line that ascends a banded lower wall and long crack in the headwall. Low in the grade. Climb to the roof, pull over it to easier ground and move up to the long crack in the headwall. The crack is superbly positioned and on perfect rock. © Rockfax

Ticklists

3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Portland, Rock cats getting strong, Spanish crew 2018, The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour.

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UserDateNotes
MarcDorrington 8 Jul Show βeta
βeta: multiple options through the crux, my climbing partner and i did it 2 completely different ways.
 
Show beta
βeta: multiple options through the crux, my climbing partner and i did it 2 completely different ways.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Wayne.Gaudin 13 Sep Lead RP Bolt to bolt to put the Qds in and refine the beta. Then went first redpoint. Quite a lot of shaking out but all moves went without too much stress. Well bolted. Great line.
with Jobbo
Bolt to bolt to put the Qds in and refine the beta. Then went first redpoint. Quite a lot of shaking out but all moves went without too much stress. Well bolted. Great line.
with Jobbo
Jobbo 13 Sep Lead RP
Jobbo 8 Sep TR RP
Wayne.Gaudin 8 Sep Lead dog Three goes, very goey in perfect conditions. One stiff move to reach the undercut roof then steady climbing on great rock to a trickier section on chert crimps but only when pumped. Class route, low end of the grade, but felt a bit harder than Sweet Smell and Stay Golden.
with Jobbo
Three goes, very goey in perfect conditions. One stiff move to reach the undercut roof then steady climbing on great rock to a trickier section on chert crimps but only when pumped. Class route, low end of the grade, but felt a bit harder than Sweet Smell and Stay Golden.
with Jobbo
Spatchcock 3 Sep Lead
S.Kew 3 Sep Lead O/S
MarcDorrington 31 Jul -
Harrietbarford 14 Jul -
johnhan310 14 Jul Lead RP Worked the moves on sat.. came back in the morning to find it unclimbable in the bottom due to the dreaded grease. Fought my way through green slime to work the moves in the upper section. Thankfully the sun dried it out and it went right at the end of the day. Proper good route. Found the bottom section very pumpy.
Worked the moves on sat.. came back in the morning to find it unclimbable in the bottom due to the dreaded grease. Fought my way through green slime to work the moves in the upper section. Thankfully the sun dried it out and it went right at the end of the day. Proper good route. Found the bottom section very pumpy.
Guslayton 7 Jul Lead RP
MarcDorrington 7 Jul Lead RP Amazing route with options at the crux.
Amazing route with options at the crux.
AJM 2 Jul Lead O/S Very cool route. Really gave it full beans, super chuffed to pull the onsight out the bag, skin of the teeth at points!
with Ed Babs
Very cool route. Really gave it full beans, super chuffed to pull the onsight out the bag, skin of the teeth at points!
with Ed Babs
Mike_Hayes 1 Jul Lead O/S
with John Nightingale
with John Nightingale
Alex N-R 16 Jun Lead O/S
with Tomar
with Tomar
Sophie Nunn 6 Jun Lead RP 2nd go
with Ed Babs
2nd go
with Ed Babs
dryvita 12 May Lead RP Went this morning before sun came round after working it yesterday. an amazing route despite the horrendously greasy flint crimp to negotiate before the roof. Definitely v soft, felt 7b despite the grease
Went this morning before sun came round after working it yesterday. an amazing route despite the horrendously greasy flint crimp to negotiate before the roof. Definitely v soft, felt 7b despite the grease
adamsriches 11 May Lead RP Got second full go, felt soft
with dryvita
Got second full go, felt soft
with dryvita
Hidden 10 May Lead RP
john lynch 5 May Lead O/S
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
Bethan May Davies 5 May Lead β Cool route but totally soft in the grade. Never 7b+!
Cool route but totally soft in the grade. Never 7b+!
Hidden 4 May Lead G/U
ez does it 4 May Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 28 Apr Lead RP Fell off the onsight attempt mainly due to very greasy holds through the powerful section. Couldn’t really work out a different way to do it but did manage to work out I could chalk up between leaving the greasy jugs for the flinty crimp which made all the difference on my second burn/send. So about 2/3 onsight whilst placing the qd’s. It wasn’t pretty and I got ridiculously pumped but managed to fight through the PE section to a decent rest to then pump out my left calf on the crack/upper section. T’was a real battle so was v happy to send. A cool route.
Fell off the onsight attempt mainly due to very greasy holds through the powerful section. Couldn’t really work out a different way to do it but did manage to work out I could chalk up between leaving the greasy jugs for the flinty crimp which made all the difference on my second burn/send. So about 2/3 onsight whilst placing the qd’s. It wasn’t pretty and I got ridiculously pumped but managed to fight through the PE section to a decent rest to then pump out my left calf on the crack/upper section. T’was a real battle so was v happy to send. A cool route.
brian watson 19 Apr Lead RP kind of flash, one go after the others had put the draws in (couldn't remember the last visit!) great route, very soft 7a+??
with Drew, Louis Boscence
kind of flash, one go after the others had put the draws in (couldn't remember the last visit!) great route, very soft 7a+??
with Drew, Louis Boscence
samparsons 19 Apr Lead β Bit soft but a good route!
Bit soft but a good route!
aiyer 18 Nov, 2018 Lead RP First 7b+ worked on TR and sent second RP...route goes forever!! Crux for me was by the third clip and passing the roof felt scary!
First 7b+ worked on TR and sent second RP...route goes forever!! Crux for me was by the third clip and passing the roof felt scary!
Kev Little 17 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
W d c 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Draws in place.
with Lewis, Dan Cook, Al Rosier, Timm. O
Draws in place.
with Lewis, Dan Cook, Al Rosier, Timm. O
chris_woodsy 12 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
with Apew, Widda
with Apew, Widda
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
ian bryant 4 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 15 Jul, 2017 Lead dog The whole route was damp/wet... Made everything feel about 2 grades harder, s*#t my pants a little too!
The whole route was damp/wet... Made everything feel about 2 grades harder, s*#t my pants a little too!
Hidden 10 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
BenL 24 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
nimajneb 24 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with BenL
with BenL
brian watson 6 Aug, 2016 TR dog Seemed possible, did all the moves except the low crux, need to find rests to help with lacking endurance ( I am finding that word a lot in my notes!! ENDURANCE) also bit trashed from 3 climbing sessions in 24hrs!
with Mike Hawkins
Seemed possible, did all the moves except the low crux, need to find rests to help with lacking endurance ( I am finding that word a lot in my notes!! ENDURANCE) also bit trashed from 3 climbing sessions in 24hrs!
with Mike Hawkins
tommccluskey 7 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Amar
with Amar
ThomasB 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic Route!
Fantastic Route!
jlgoddard 31 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
with JackMac
with JackMac
JackMac 31 Mar, 2016 Lead RP Thankfully my hands thawed out on the rest half way up. Very enjoyable climbing. Possibly 7b in good conditions?
Thankfully my hands thawed out on the rest half way up. Very enjoyable climbing. Possibly 7b in good conditions?
JackMac 21 Mar, 2016 Lead dog Should go next time. Awesome stamina route.
Should go next time. Awesome stamina route.
Tomar 13 Mar, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go. Awesome pumpy route. Steady at the grade if you milk the rests and pace yourself.
with JackMac
2nd go. Awesome pumpy route. Steady at the grade if you milk the rests and pace yourself.
with JackMac
JackMac 13 Mar, 2016 Lead dog Very nice but struggled with endurance after the crux :( Must come back soon...
with Tomar
Very nice but struggled with endurance after the crux :( Must come back soon...
with Tomar
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 28 Sep, 2014 TR dog Greasy today which prob makes it harder. Move through the roof was too hard for me, rest do-able.
Greasy today which prob makes it harder. Move through the roof was too hard for me, rest do-able.
Aaron.Clifford 23 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
with Renna Clifford
with Renna Clifford
Qisheng Xie 16 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
lewiz 22 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Spectacular route but at the lower end of easy 7b+. If there was a 7b/+ option, this would be it :-)
Spectacular route but at the lower end of easy 7b+. If there was a 7b/+ option, this would be it :-)
lewiz 21 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Somehow got onto this without realising about the nesting restrictions. Immediately cleaned the route upon finding out. Have since checked RAD and lucky for me the restriction doesn't apply to this route this year. Hoping to send it tomorrow!
Somehow got onto this without realising about the nesting restrictions. Immediately cleaned the route upon finding out. Have since checked RAD and lucky for me the restriction doesn't apply to this route this year. Hoping to send it tomorrow!
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 May, 2014 Lead RP
dannyboy83 4 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Very Good...very soft!
with Rich
Very Good...very soft!
with Rich
Hidden 29 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25 Oct, 2012 Lead dog Fell off the onsight after the crux got flash pump bad. Second go fell off one bolt from the top on the easy climbing - made a mistake and jumped for the jug... And missed. Ran out of time. Will go next time. Great climb.
Fell off the onsight after the crux got flash pump bad. Second go fell off one bolt from the top on the easy climbing - made a mistake and jumped for the jug... And missed. Ran out of time. Will go next time. Great climb.
Sami Mandeel 25 Oct, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 5 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
Ed Babs 1 May, 2012 Lead RP Quality climbing with plenty of rests. 2nd go.
with Paul Hayes
Quality climbing with plenty of rests. 2nd go.
with Paul Hayes
dan gibson 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
with anna barnes
Luke Dawson 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ??, 2011 Lead RP
with Dean Howard
with Dean Howard
Martin Krasnansky 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
trev_f 14 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
with Ben H
with Ben H
La Mont ??, 2009 -
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Richard Horn 21 Sep, 2008 Lead RP
Rob Kennard 23 Aug, 2008 -
with Rich White
with Rich White
bigie bob 30 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2004 -
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2001 -
37 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set