UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
The direct line up the black wall has fine climbing throughout and a blind crux move. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Jan Rostron 5.97 May/1997

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest?, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland sub 6b, Portland.


ClimberDateStyle
StrongDan 09/Jun Lead
RangerMcFreindly 09/Jun Lead O/S
with Levey, Simone Lang, StrongDan, bede.west
Chloe Clear 09/Jun Lead β
George89 21/May Lead O/S

Nice route. Around 5a until the crux. Couldn't figure out a stable way to clip the clip before the lower off so just went past it as the climbing approaching the lower off is simple (don't think I'd recommend doing that, though...)

Hidden 20/May Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May TR dog
kazoinks 20/May Lead O/S

Smashing route

with Ramsey
AJM 19/May Lead O/S
with Dizz, hms, Cyan
Dizz 19/May Lead rpt
with AJM
Hidden 19/May Lead β
Matt Smith 14/May Lead O/S
with Sam Thompson
Dandan82 12/May Lead O/S
will_of_fortune 11/May Lead O/S
with Abi
Tommy Harris 07/May Lead O/S
Andre Clarke 07/May Lead O/S
mohausler 06/May Lead O/S
Phippy 06/May Lead O/S
Francescaparratt 15/Oct/17 Lead dog
Fakey Rocks 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Various good moves, inc the tricky start, halfway mantleshelf, + crux sequence above, felt more 6a+ to me, bolt 6 too low, can hit ledge, use short quickdraw, maybe single biner on the bolt, partner clipped the ledge a bit after a slip + too much slack from standing out, stand beneath, keep slack mimimal . Actually really good climbing that bit, and doesn't stop till the rings!

freec 29/Sep/17 TR
PaddyFreer 29/Sep/17 TR O/S
with freec
dryvita 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ed Bot
abrooks 19/Aug/17 Lead RP
with dbrooks
dbrooks 19/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Portland crew
monkeytennis 19/Aug/17 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Kayface42 15/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Linc
Martin Bagshaw 09/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Michael Porter, Andrew porter
Andrew Telford 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
takaczapka 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/17 Lead O/S
GHawksworth 14/May/17 Lead O/S
with MegWan
dylan.b 14/May/17 2nd
George Killaspy 14/May/17 Lead rpt
with dylan.b
Hidden 14/May/17 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/17 TR dnf
derryclimbs 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Nice climb but a bit of a one move wonder I felt. Fairly straight forward apart from hidden crux. Amazing location though. Def be back

afterthesend 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/17 TR β
Owen Davies 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Horton 12/Mar/17 Lead O/S

First outdoor 6a lead/flash. Took about 6 looks at the crux before committing to a cowboy manoeuvre that somehow came off. Fun route

islandlynx 12/Mar/17 Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 12/Mar/17 Lead β
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Aug/16 TR RP
julesmckim 08/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Rob Smart, GeoMike
cem 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with JoeyD1
raystandage 01/Aug/16 TR rpt
with Rhys, Cole
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead
simonsnake77 25/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Nice and easy up to the crux.

Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Pure quality climbing on immaculate rock! Great fun

Hidden 09/Jul/16 TR dog
Emily Y 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ralitsa Ivanova
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
DanWeiss 02/Jun/16 2nd
with Langer
dbrooks 28/May/16 Lead rpt
with Stu
Jane Weir 15/May/16 Lead
Gem Minihan 15/May/16 2nd
philhaigh 15/May/16 Lead rpt
RossWoodruffe 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 14/May/16 Lead rpt
with Lucy Matthews
elliptic 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd
jlgoddard 08/May/16 Lead O/S
duncan 07/May/16 Lead rpt
George Killaspy 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Dylan Brown
tsyrett 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt
DorsetGareth 30/Apr/16 Lead β
spidey 23/Apr/16 Lead
with Daryl
tsyrett 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Honey badger 93 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead β
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
JackMac 25/Oct/15 Lead β
dansimkin 17/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Rebecca Knill
dansimkin 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Malkin
Hidden 11/Sep/15 Lead
tom_lewis89 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Katie Arnold
Hidden 21/Aug/15 Lead
Ekoby 18/Aug/15 TR dog
with Nataliehaigh, philhaigh
Bones [:B 08/Aug/15 Lead
Ed Houghton 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Awesome

martin one 01/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Chris day
La Mont 19/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Will
MaryEC 18/Jul/15 Lead β
philhaigh 17/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Quitiweb, Jon Casado, nataliehaigh
Hidden 04/Jul/15 -
The Ivanator 06/Jun/15 Lead rpt
simonsnake77 28/May/15 Lead β

Really enjoyable a little harder than 'coming of age'

JUSTADUDE 25/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead
SJS 24/May/15 Lead dnf
with Emily, Claire
professorcobra 24/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Emily 23/May/15 Lead O/S

I did have a bit of information about this from Steve, but not quite substantial enough to call it a flash. It was really fun - nice climbing up the wall, and then some interesting harder stuff to the last bolt. Brilliant end to a really good day for me.

tash 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with ali k
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 12/May/15 Lead O/S
Ben J 19/Apr/15 Lead dog

1 rest; No trouble, just missed the crux hold. Nice lesson in routefinding. Will send clean next time, tide came in.

with Sam Gill
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Nick_Merriman 14/Apr/15 Lead
with Bill Spittall
Hidden 25/Mar/15 TR
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
AJ007 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Lorène 21/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Tommyads ??/2015 -
Rockmonkey1977 14/Sep/14 Lead β

Glad i'd seen somebody else do it first.

philhaigh 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Fi Marlow, Mike Gubbins, nataliehaigh
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with msyea
Jackwd 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Robertson, Stuart Webster, scoth
scoth 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Montecore 16/Aug/14 Lead dog

Should have gone left at the thin cracks

with Matt Ray
Nick Clement 09/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
cpowell 03/Aug/14 Lead
Martin Bagshaw 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mick cook
samparsons 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Danstephens 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with lola, remi richards, maddie sweetman
Maddie 25/Jun/14 Lead dog

Grabbed the drawer at the top as it rained and the foothold was soaked but felt easy for 6a

with Lola, Remi Richards, Dan S
drcorbasisgod 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
robbo99 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

best route on the wall in my view. better finish too vs Coming of Age, smear required

grahamelliott 21/Jun/14 TR dnf
JUSTADUDE 17/Jun/14 Lead β

Tricky crux, found going left worked for me...

Pathological_Climber 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
louby 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

slippery and not following the obvious line

with chris_B
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
skippington 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/14 Lead β
Tom Penrose 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Beautiful pitch, probably one of my favorite on the island at this grade.

jopayne1988 18/May/14 Lead β

Beautiful all the way

Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
John Tanner 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
dbrooks 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
richardashe 17/Oct/13 Lead β
Graham Westbrook 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 06/Oct/13 2nd
mattc 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/13 TR
tomB 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Juliette
BenL 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
bobstones 20/Aug/13 TR dog
Hidden 01/Aug/13 Lead β
Julie Carroll 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Steve Gorton
Ian MK 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Wayne Murphy
farley-hulse89 20/Jul/13 Lead dog
chancer 20/Jul/13 TR dog
trev_f 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Dorset gang
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 26/May/13 Lead O/S
James Marshall 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with wendy
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead dog
The Ivanator 01/Apr/13 TR rpt

Plastered in mud after winter, needs traffic ...take a trowel!

with jezb1
Hidden 07/Oct/12 TR rpt
The Ivanator 07/Oct/12 TR O/S
wurzelinzummerset 07/Oct/12 TR dog
Daniel Wicks 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Radek
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Rupey 26/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with alan
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead
AlexD 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead β
philhaigh 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, melD, Rob Kennard
Rupey 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with sheds
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead rpt
dan gibson 05/Jul/12 Lead β
with julie carroll
Ian MK 27/May/12 Lead O/S
robajob 27/May/12 Lead β
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
katiep 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Taylor
Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Martyn
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead O/S
with James Kingswood
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 TR
with LiL Saz
julesmckim 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with dave lewis, GeoMike
Pete Scott 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with J5Kay
J5Kay 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 01/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Fiona Marlow
Sami Mandeel 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14/Jul/11 Lead β
Ducks Rock 10/Jul/11 TR
with Harry
el_monty 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with JWB
JWB 26/Sep/10 Lead β

Crux felt hard for 6a.

Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
nath_casper 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with duncan
duncan 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt
RandomHero 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Malin
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead rpt
dominic lee 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead rpt
tobydunford 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf
dan gibson 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Mr Tickle 28/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with davenev
davenev 28/Jul/09 TR dog

peeled off at crux

Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JPGR ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Ed Babs 23/May/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with John S
AndyM-LVB 29/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Nicolas Tardy
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Kyle F ?/Sep/08 TR
Richard Horn 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Bob M 16/Apr/08 2nd
with Steve Newman, riggy
Hidden 15/Sep/07 -
Vince 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with John Percy
pennyb 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with jl
Scott N ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
bigie bob 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Wilbur 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
viking ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
pete johnson 18/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Rob
jl 02/Sep/05 Lead RP
with Rachel
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Mark Stevenson 26/Jun/05 Lead O/S
MikeC59 28/May/05 Lead
aged_ape ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Rob B
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 17/Aug/03 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 17/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden 21/Mar/03 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 21/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
furry 05/Oct/02 TR
with Phil B
John Southworth ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 07/Jul/00 Lead O/S
duncan 03/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with David Proughton
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
33 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set