Rockfax Description
The direct line up the black wall has fine climbing throughout and a blind crux move. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Jan Rostron 5.97 May/1997

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest?, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Francescaparratt 15/Oct/17 Lead dog
Fakey Rocks 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Various good moves, inc the tricky start, halfway mantleshelf, + crux sequence above, felt more 6a+ to me, bolt 6 too low, can hit ledge, use short quickdraw, maybe single biner on the bolt, partner clipped the ledge a bit after a slip + too much slack from standing out, stand beneath, keep slack mimimal . Actually really good climbing that bit, and doesn't stop till the rings!

freec 29/Sep/17 TR
PaddyFreer 29/Sep/17 TR O/S
with freec
dryvita 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ed Bot
abrooks 19/Aug/17 Lead RP
with dbrooks
dbrooks 19/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Portland crew
monkeytennis 19/Aug/17 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Kayface42 15/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Si
Martin Bagshaw 09/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Michael Porter, Andrew porter
Andrew Telford 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
takaczapka 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/17 Lead O/S
GHawksworth 14/May/17 Lead O/S
dylan.b 14/May/17 2nd
with George
George Killaspy 14/May/17 Lead rpt
with Dylan
Hidden 14/May/17 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/17 TR dnf
derryclimbs 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Nice climb but a bit of a one move wonder I felt. Fairly straight forward apart from hidden crux. Amazing location though. Def be back

afterthesend 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/17 TR β
Owen Davies 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Horton 12/Mar/17 Lead O/S

First outdoor 6a lead/flash. Took about 6 looks at the crux before committing to a cowboy manoeuvre that somehow came off. Fun route

islandlynx 12/Mar/17 Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 12/Mar/17 Lead β
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Aug/16 TR RP
julesmckim 08/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Rob Smart, Mickie Streule
cem 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
raystandage 01/Aug/16 TR rpt
with Rhys, Cole
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead
simonsnake77 25/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Nice and easy up to the crux.

Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Pure quality climbing on immaculate rock! Great fun

Hidden 09/Jul/16 TR dog
Emily Y 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ralitsa Ivanova
Hidden 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S
DanWeiss 02/Jun/16 2nd
with Langer
dbrooks 28/May/16 Lead rpt
with Stu
Jane Weir 15/May/16 Lead
Gem Minihan 15/May/16 2nd
philhaigh 15/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 14/May/16 Lead rpt
with Lucy Matthews
elliptic 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd
jlgoddard 08/May/16 Lead O/S
duncan 07/May/16 Lead rpt
George Killaspy 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Dylan Brown
tsyrett 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt
DorsetGareth 30/Apr/16 Lead β
spidey 23/Apr/16 Lead
with Daryl
tsyrett 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Honey badger 93 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead β
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
JackMac 25/Oct/15 Lead β
with James
dansimkin 17/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Rebecca Knill
dansimkin 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Malkin
Hidden 11/Sep/15 Lead
tom_lewis89 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Katie Arnold
Hidden 21/Aug/15 Lead
Ekoby 18/Aug/15 TR dog
with Nataliehaigh, Phil Haigh
Bones [:B 08/Aug/15 Lead
Ed Houghton 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S


martin one 01/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Chris day
La Mont 19/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Will
MaryEC 18/Jul/15 Lead β
philhaigh 17/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Quiti Kites, Jon Casado, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 04/Jul/15 -
The Ivanator 06/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Stewart
simonsnake77 28/May/15 Lead β

Really enjoyable a little harder than 'coming of age'

JUSTADUDE 25/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead
SJS 24/May/15 Lead dnf
with Emily, Claire
professorcobra 24/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Emily 23/May/15 Lead O/S

I did have a bit of information about this from Steve, but not quite substantial enough to call it a flash. It was really fun - nice climbing up the wall, and then some interesting harder stuff to the last bolt. Brilliant end to a really good day for me.

with Nick
tash 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with ali k
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 12/May/15 Lead O/S
Ben J 19/Apr/15 Lead dog

1 rest; No trouble, just missed the crux hold. Nice lesson in routefinding. Will send clean next time, tide came in.

with Sam Gill
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Nick_Merriman 14/Apr/15 Lead
with Bill Spittall
Hidden 25/Mar/15 TR
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
AJ007 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Lorène 21/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Tommyads ??/2015 -
Rockmonkey1977 14/Sep/14 Lead β

Glad i'd seen somebody else do it first.

philhaigh 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Fi Marlow, Mike Gubbins, Natalie Haigh
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jackwd 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Robertson, Stuart Webster, Scott
scoth 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Montecore 16/Aug/14 Lead dog

Should have gone left at the thin cracks

with Matt Ray
Nick Clement 09/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
BIgYeti86 03/Aug/14 Lead
Martin Bagshaw 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mick cook
samparsons 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Emmie
Danstephens 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with lola, remi richards, maddie sweetman
Maddie 25/Jun/14 Lead dog

Grabbed the drawer at the top as it rained and the foothold was soaked but felt easy for 6a

with Lola, Remi Richards, Dan S
drcorbasisgod 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
robbo99 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

best route on the wall in my view. better finish too vs Coming of Age, smear required

grahamelliott 21/Jun/14 TR dnf
JUSTADUDE 17/Jun/14 Lead β

Tricky crux, found going left worked for me...

Pathological_Climber 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
louby 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

slippery and not following the obvious line

Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
skippington 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/14 Lead β
Tom Penrose 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Beautiful pitch, probably one of my favorite on the island at this grade.

jopayne1988 18/May/14 Lead β

Beautiful all the way

Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
John Tanner 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
dbrooks 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with John
richardashe 17/Oct/13 Lead β
Graham Westbrook 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 06/Oct/13 2nd
mattc 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/13 TR
tomB 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Juliette
BenL 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
bobstones 20/Aug/13 TR dog
Hidden 01/Aug/13 Lead β
Julie Carroll 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Steve Gorton
Ian MK 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Wayne Murphy
farley-hulse89 20/Jul/13 Lead dog
chancer 20/Jul/13 TR dog
trev_f 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Dorset gang
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
James Marshall 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with wendy
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead dog
The Ivanator 01/Apr/13 TR rpt

Plastered in mud after winter, needs traffic ...take a trowel!

with Jez
Hidden 07/Oct/12 TR rpt
The Ivanator 07/Oct/12 TR O/S
with Alan, Sue
wurzelinzummerset 07/Oct/12 TR dog
with Sue, Ivan
Daniel Wicks 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Radek
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Rupey 26/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with alan
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead
AlexD 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead β
philhaigh 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, Mel Dodge, Rob Kennard
Rupey 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with sheds
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead rpt
dan gibson 05/Jul/12 Lead β
with julie carroll
Ian MK 27/May/12 Lead O/S
robajob 27/May/12 Lead β
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
katiep 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Taylor
Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Martyn
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead O/S
with James Kingswood
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 TR
julesmckim 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with dave lewis, Mickie Streule
Pete Scott 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
J5Kay 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 01/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Fiona Marlow
Sami Mandeel 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14/Jul/11 Lead β
Ducks Rock 10/Jul/11 TR
with Harry
el_monty 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
JWB 26/Sep/10 Lead β

Crux felt hard for 6a.

Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
nath_casper 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
duncan 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt
RandomHero 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Malin
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead rpt
dominic lee 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead rpt
tobydunford 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Matt
ThomasB ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf
dan gibson 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Mr Tickle 28/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with davenev
davenev 28/Jul/09 TR dog

peeled off at crux

with luke
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JPGR ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Ed Babs 23/May/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with John S
AndyM-LVB 29/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Nicolas Tardy
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Kyle F ?/Sep/08 TR
Richard Horn 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Bob M 16/Apr/08 2nd
with Steve Newman, Paul Rigg
Hidden 15/Sep/07 -
Vince 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with John Percy
pennyb 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Jon
Scott N ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
bigie bob 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Wilbur 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Morgan
viking ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
pete johnson 18/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Rob
jl 02/Sep/05 Lead RP
with Rachel
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Mark Stevenson 26/Jun/05 Lead O/S
MikeC59 28/May/05 Lead
aged_ape ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Rob B
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 17/Aug/03 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 17/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden 21/Mar/03 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 21/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
furry 05/Oct/02 TR
with Phil B
John Southworth ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 07/Jul/00 Lead O/S
duncan 03/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with David Proughton
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
30 users have this on their wishlist
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set