8m.

Rockfax Description
Easy climbing to one nails move. © Rockfax

FA. Guy Dixon 1995

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ben Thorne 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's not about reach. It's about technique (as is the rest of the island). I'm 5'7" and like I said, found it impossible without the crucial foothold - once in position it made it easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's not about reach. It's about technique (as is the rest of the island). I'm 5'7" and like I said, found it impossible without the crucial foothold - once in position it made it easy.
Richard Horn 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Re: Credit due - clearly I am lacking some imagination on how to do the move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Re: Credit due - clearly I am lacking some imagination on how to do the move.
Mick Ward 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Err... I'm 5ft6 and I did it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Err... I'm 5ft6 and I did it!
Richard Horn 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I would say this route is ridiculously height dependent and ungradeable. I am 6ft1 and undercutting the smooth arc I was still 2 inches or so short of the top hold. Someone 6ft6 would find this easy, someone 5ft6 absolutely impossible.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would say this route is ridiculously height dependent and ungradeable. I am 6ft1 and undercutting the smooth arc I was still 2 inches or so short of the top hold. Someone 6ft6 would find this easy, someone 5ft6 absolutely impossible.
Ben Thorne 13 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Okay, now I really have to disagree with the re-grade. Does one comment on a frankly unrepresentative database warrant an up-grade? Surely it should be graded for the easiest way up it? With this route there IS only one way and the crux is no harder than English 5c. The route to the left is 6c and the crux is ten times harder. AND! what's the long reach symbol for?...ye gads... F6b+ MAX.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Okay, now I really have to disagree with the re-grade. Does one comment on a frankly unrepresentative database warrant an up-grade? Surely it should be graded for the easiest way up it? With this route there IS only one way and the crux is no harder than English 5c. The route to the left is 6c and the crux is ten times harder. AND! what's the long reach symbol for?...ye gads... F6b+ MAX.
Ben Thorne 27 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Unbalanced, yes, but as Steve points out - most of Portland is steady climbing with headwall cruxes. I couldn't do this until JD showed me how to do this cunning 1-inch foot move while you're undercutting the smooth arc. I can get it pretty much every time now. It's a good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unbalanced, yes, but as Steve points out - most of Portland is steady climbing with headwall cruxes. I couldn't do this until JD showed me how to do this cunning 1-inch foot move while you're undercutting the smooth arc. I can get it pretty much every time now. It's a good route.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
will_of_fortune 21 Sep Lead RP Secret beta slightly right of the main line but not far enough to be off line. Very satisfying to find a much easier solution than what I first tried.
Secret beta slightly right of the main line but not far enough to be off line. Very satisfying to find a much easier solution than what I first tried.
Rokmunky 23 Aug Lead dnf
DaveM14 15 Aug TR Top roped to last clip, struggled to get on to ledge before crux move!
Top roped to last clip, struggled to get on to ledge before crux move!
Wayne.Gaudin 15 Aug Lead RP 2nd go today. Still feels dropable. Really enjoyed the top moves.
with Dave Moisley, Jobbo, James
2nd go today. Still feels dropable. Really enjoyed the top moves.
with Dave Moisley, Jobbo, James
Jobbo 15 Aug Lead RP 2nd try.
2nd try.
Intrepidsteve 9 Aug -
Wayne.Gaudin 8 Aug Lead dog Took me ages to work out a sequence for the top and still feels dropable. I think it's hard for the grade cos I OS'd the 6c and 7a to left earlier in the day bit couldn't get this clean in three goes. Good bouldery sequence. Side pull crimp left of bolt to right side pull. Feet up. Smooth undercut. Micro crimp. Twist right hip in. Reach bigger crimp. Wide left foot and crank!
with James
Took me ages to work out a sequence for the top and still feels dropable. I think it's hard for the grade cos I OS'd the 6c and 7a to left earlier in the day bit couldn't get this clean in three goes. Good bouldery sequence. Side pull crimp left of bolt to right side pull. Feet up. Smooth undercut. Micro crimp. Twist right hip in. Reach bigger crimp. Wide left foot and crank!
with James
BestPractice 18 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Am I missing something or is there only 1 bolt at the top - that's not an anchor! (better donate some more money to the Dorset Bolt Fund!!) In any case, the last move seems impossible to me. Maybe another time.
with Christine
Am I missing something or is there only 1 bolt at the top - that's not an anchor! (better donate some more money to the Dorset Bolt Fund!!) In any case, the last move seems impossible to me. Maybe another time.
with Christine
nimajneb ?Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Andre Clarke 19 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf
Tommy Harris 19 Nov, 2017 Lead RP Finally after a few attempts at trying it, brilliant last moves.
Finally after a few attempts at trying it, brilliant last moves.
Andre Clarke 12 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf Nails move at top. No where near it at moment
Nails move at top. No where near it at moment
Andre Clarke 5 Nov, 2017 TR dnf
samparsons 9 Jul, 2017 Lead RP I found this very tough! I am 5'11 with an average reach, if you were taller this would be a completely different climb and if you are shorter good luck!
I found this very tough! I am 5'11 with an average reach, if you were taller this would be a completely different climb and if you are shorter good luck!
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 -
sammycolon 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 TR dnf
Hidden 1 May, 2016 TR dog
ihugrocks ??, 2016 -
nimajneb ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Swamp murphy ?May, 2015 Lead RP
Elizabeth Noyes ?May, 2015 2nd
shaunstannard ??, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 TR dnf
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 8 Oct, 2013 Lead rpt
Steph Roberts 8 Oct, 2013 Lead RP One top rope then sent first red point.
One top rope then sent first red point.
will black 28 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt 2nd go, hand slipped off the big flint side pull on first attempt, was quite a good route nothing really that special but worth a climb.
2nd go, hand slipped off the big flint side pull on first attempt, was quite a good route nothing really that special but worth a climb.
dobby 200 27 May, 2013 Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 6 Feb, 2013 Lead RP
will ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf
Jonathan Emett 4 Jun, 2012 Lead RP 1st go. finally! felt straightforward this time.
with daniel, gibsond, Paul
1st go. finally! felt straightforward this time.
with daniel, gibsond, Paul
Jonathan Emett 26 May, 2012 Lead dnf missed the top crimp. again.
with siwan
missed the top crimp. again.
with siwan
Keendan 4 Apr, 2012 Lead RP Not good at the control needed for the top moves. Got it by the skin of my teeth with Sutty's beta. Soo close to dropping the last moves.
Not good at the control needed for the top moves. Got it by the skin of my teeth with Sutty's beta. Soo close to dropping the last moves.
elCapitano 4 Apr, 2012 Lead dog
with Keendan
with Keendan
elCapitano 4 Apr, 2012 Lead rpt This would be a strong onsight; the final move is excellent and very technical.
with Keendan
This would be a strong onsight; the final move is excellent and very technical.
with Keendan
Jonathan Emett 7 Aug, 2011 TR dog worked out a sequence but didn't feel up to leading it.
with Rupey
worked out a sequence but didn't feel up to leading it.
with Rupey
benwhit ?Aug, 2011 Lead
with ilch
with ilch
Jonathan Emett 9 Apr, 2011 Lead dog 2 attempts. I couldn't work out a direct move that worked, after reading comments I may try more indirect methods!
2 attempts. I couldn't work out a direct move that worked, after reading comments I may try more indirect methods!
Alex More 3 Jan, 2011 Lead rpt
with Sparky
with Sparky
Alex More 26 Dec, 2010 Lead dnf
with Sparky
with Sparky
dereke12000 31 Oct, 2010 TR dnf silly idea trying this, too tired anyway
silly idea trying this, too tired anyway
jacobjlloyd 25 Sep, 2010 Lead RP Second go. Fell trying to go too direct the first time - read the move right but thought it was too far off central. Not a well placed bolt. Nothingy to one move - just a boulder problem, but quite a nice one! I'd give it hard v3.
with Febrizio, John Scarrott
Second go. Fell trying to go too direct the first time - read the move right but thought it was too far off central. Not a well placed bolt. Nothingy to one move - just a boulder problem, but quite a nice one! I'd give it hard v3.
with Febrizio, John Scarrott
Emma-Louise Anderson 18 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf Tried a foot bar and gaston combination, not sure what would work... aseemed impossible!
with Dave Parsons, Chris Bailey
Tried a foot bar and gaston combination, not sure what would work... aseemed impossible!
with Dave Parsons, Chris Bailey
MarkRyder 17 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
with vertigo
with vertigo
Hidden 21 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf
DrGav 12 Apr, 2009 Lead RP what a move!
with Jeff25
what a move!
with Jeff25
Jeff25 12 Apr, 2009 Lead β Very nice with strange full body crux at the end. Not really reachy - more technical.
with DrGav
Very nice with strange full body crux at the end. Not really reachy - more technical.
with DrGav
CosmosKey 28 Sep, 2008 Lead dog
with Sheena
with Sheena
vertigo 29 Jun, 2008 Lead RP 1st RP
1st RP
Anthony Allsopp 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 10 Nov, 2007 Lead RP
dobby 200 29 Aug, 2007 Lead RP
Neil Tucker ?Jun, 2007 Lead
with Javier Ruiz, Andras Pinter
with Javier Ruiz, Andras Pinter
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Lloyders ??, 2006 Lead
CrashMat Rob 31 Jul, 2001 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Jun, 2001 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1995 -
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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set