29m.

Rockfax Description
A splendid pitch that features a forceful finger-crack. Start in an overhung sentry-box. Move up and right to clear the overhang and gain the wall above. Climb the wall rightwards on good finger-holds to the base of a thin crack in the upper wall. The fine, thin crack is climbed with difficulty to a short headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 11/Jul/1989

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+

Feedback

UserDateNotes
tomrainbow 7 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing may only be 6c but the runout is definitely 6c+. Felt E4 6a in old money. The climbing is good but a bit disjointed, the lower half being much easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climbing may only be 6c but the runout is definitely 6c+. Felt E4 6a in old money. The climbing is good but a bit disjointed, the lower half being much easier.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Scribe 21 Sep Lead β Nice finger-crack and bridging sequence in the middle, helped having all the draws in (including sketchy first draw pre-clipped).
with Tutu
Nice finger-crack and bridging sequence in the middle, helped having all the draws in (including sketchy first draw pre-clipped).
with Tutu
Sam Brown 24 Aug Lead O/S
with Natalie Brown
with Natalie Brown
julesmckim 4 Aug Lead dnf Paul took a biggish fall off the crux crack. The bolts are quite spaced. Tried myself and didn't fare much better. Blood left all over the place. Crux holds were greasy, bolt below your feet. Nightmare! Will take some wires up next time!
with paul mccarthy
Paul took a biggish fall off the crux crack. The bolts are quite spaced. Tried myself and didn't fare much better. Blood left all over the place. Crux holds were greasy, bolt below your feet. Nightmare! Will take some wires up next time!
with paul mccarthy
Hidden 20 Jul Lead dog
Mike_Hayes 7 Jul Lead O/S
treesrockice 7 Jul Lead O/S
AJM 2 Jul Lead O/S Nice, tricky finger crack
with Ed Babs
Nice, tricky finger crack
with Ed Babs
igola 29 Jun Lead O/S Amazing route, despite crumbly bottom. Technical crack and scary run outs.
Amazing route, despite crumbly bottom. Technical crack and scary run outs.
Alex N-R 16 Jun Lead O/S
with Tomar
with Tomar
PalfreyN 9 Jun Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 25 May Lead O/S Kept waiting for it to get hard and then I got to the crack... (it got hard). I mean the climb...
Kept waiting for it to get hard and then I got to the crack... (it got hard). I mean the climb...
adamsriches 12 May Lead O/S
with Elodie
with Elodie
Ellis Bird 10 May Lead O/S
m.powell02 5 May Lead O/S
Bethan May Davies 4 May Lead
john lynch 4 May Lead O/S
Matt Clifton 4 May Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 15 Apr 2nd
ssutton 21 Oct, 2018 Lead dog A little greasy, but i think lack of footholds/bridging did for me.
with Markus
A little greasy, but i think lack of footholds/bridging did for me.
with Markus
Ed.Laver 26 Sep, 2018 Lead β
afrosam 8 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Bottom 2/3 is a choss pile, top 1/3 is great. Not sure why it's worth 3 or even 2 stars. Much better routes in this area to be had
Bottom 2/3 is a choss pile, top 1/3 is great. Not sure why it's worth 3 or even 2 stars. Much better routes in this area to be had
Michael Bortoluzzi 19 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 6 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Ian Robinson
with Ian Robinson
danJBA 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Duncan
with Duncan
nacnud 2 Sep, 2017 Lead β
with danJBA
with danJBA
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 Lead β
hfotheri 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Widda 12 Aug, 2017 2nd dog saw the jug after falling off mid crux >.
with Apew, chris_woodsy
saw the jug after falling off mid crux >.
with Apew, chris_woodsy
chris_woodsy 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Widda
with Widda
Edward Kwong 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Delicate crux in the thin crack, made easier with bridging. Great line.
Delicate crux in the thin crack, made easier with bridging. Great line.
Q.Estelles 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
tobydunford 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
kennythescot 3 Jun, 2017 Lead β
with Gav A
with Gav A
RadekNowak 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ewa Rams
with Ewa Rams
tsyrett 7 May, 2017 Lead β
brian watson 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Paul Baller 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with Julian Greaves
with Julian Greaves
Ian MK 29 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Absolutely swimming in bird shite and other related mank on the lower section but otherwise great. Crack and top was very enjoyable.
Absolutely swimming in bird shite and other related mank on the lower section but otherwise great. Crack and top was very enjoyable.
Anna Maykova 29 Oct, 2016 TR O/S What a route! Stunning! Tonroped it clean. It goes straight on my wish list to lead.
with Ian MK
What a route! Stunning! Tonroped it clean. It goes straight on my wish list to lead.
with Ian MK
TomJ 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Good, but the hard bit is only 2 clips or so. A bit imbalanced to be a top 50 route...
with Trisha
Good, but the hard bit is only 2 clips or so. A bit imbalanced to be a top 50 route...
with Trisha
Smurf-cat 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
joese7en 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 21 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
with Sol Fernandez
with Sol Fernandez
Hidden 9 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 9 Jul, 2016 Lead β 1st 6c+ flash
1st 6c+ flash
Hidden 25 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
poeter210 1 May, 2016 Lead RP
with druss
with druss
Hidden 1 May, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 1 May, 2016 Lead RP
Jus 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Tommyads ??, 2016 -
elliptic 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
with Tash K.
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
Flavio 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with robinge
with robinge
philhaigh 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Aarron Schofield, Shamina, Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung
with Aarron Schofield, Shamina, Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Kevster 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
tonevert 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
nimajneb ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dean177
with Dean177
Dean177 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dibdawg
with Dibdawg
bryan61 5 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf
with td72
with td72
bryan61 ?Apr, 2015 Lead dnf
with td72
with td72
td72 ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with bryan61
with bryan61
dbrooks 18 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Numb fingers made the crack more challenging!
Numb fingers made the crack more challenging!
Bristoldave 18 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
with Derwood
with Derwood
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead β
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
BenL 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
with Angus Webb
Ian Bell 14 Jun, 2014 Lead dnf V slimy in crack, escaped up next door route.
with Tania T
V slimy in crack, escaped up next door route.
with Tania T
Graham Westbrook 5 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
AlexD 15 May, 2014 Lead RP one reachy move in the crack.
with Ed Babs
one reachy move in the crack.
with Ed Babs
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
3 Names 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 May, 2013 Lead rpt
dan gibson 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
with julie carroll, helen gibson
ThomasB ?Jul, 2012 Lead RP
will black ?May, 2012 Lead β cool climb got very pumped
cool climb got very pumped
Hidden 25 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ivan
with Ivan
La Mont 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with marcus
with marcus
Hidden 29 Aug, 2009 Lead dog
trev_f 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
steve taylor 29 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Rested on crux :(
with Trev Ford
Rested on crux :(
with Trev Ford
Hidden 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
bigie bob 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 4 Jul, 2009 2nd dog
with Ivan
with Ivan
Hidden 22 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
pete johnson ?Oct, 2008 -
with Denis Wong, jim jones
with Denis Wong, jim jones
Ed Babs 12 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Roger
with Roger
Hidden 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 3 May, 2008 2nd
tonanf ?Nov, 2007 AltLd RP
with Pep
with Pep
feilx 26 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rin
with Rin
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
goi.ashmore 15 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
with Duncan Powell
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2004 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2001 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 1996 Lead
26 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set