Rockfax Description
14m. Start (pond permitting) at a large flake and gain a standing position with difficulty. Pull up the wall then swing left to reach and climb the pocketed crack on Birdlime Traverse. At the top of this swing left again to reach a short finishing crack. Slightly butch and totally brilliant. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Almscliff/Caley/Brimham Circuit Challenge, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

BRoe 26/Nov/17 Lead O/S
LukeWawrzyniak 25/Nov/17 TR O/S
dabble 25/Nov/17 TR RP
with Luke W
Hidden 27/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/17 2nd
Paul ablitt 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Sarah
climberchristy 10/Sep/17 2nd rpt

So pleased for Lynn that she led this today. Her first E2 lead and what a belter it is! I never tire of this route.

with LMS
LMS 10/Sep/17 Lead rpt

Woop woop. First e2 lead.. So chuffed, never thought I could do this, exhausted at the top!! Fab route, fab day... Thanks christy for willing me up it! Super happy!!!!

nathanhesslewood 15/Aug/17 2nd dog
Teappleby 12/Aug/17 Lead rpt

Fantastic, what a route. Finally got round to leading. Just fun and pumpy.

Tom Peeper 07/Aug/17 Lead
mrteale 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Steve Wootton 21/Jul/17 Lead rpt
LMS 03/Jul/17 2nd

Yeay.. got it done this time.. really tough but brilliant route.

with Andy, climberchristy
climberchristy 03/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Doesn't matter how often I do this route, I just love it as much each time. Contender for my fave grit route. Felt really relaxed on it this time. Glad Lynn and Andy both seconded it cleanly too.

with Andy Wallace, LMS
Georgie25 02/Jul/17 2nd
Keith Swainson 02/Jul/17 Lead β
scarmichael 25/Jun/17 2nd
Steve Wootton 28/May/17 Lead rpt
climberchristy 23/May/17 Lead rpt

Still love this route!

with LMS
LMS 23/May/17 2nd dog

maybe would have felt easier if I had stayed on the route!.. pretty tough either way though..not going for the lead anytime soon!

with Christy
CraigOsborne 21/May/17 Lead O/S
Steve Wootton 20/May/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
cacheson 09/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Blew the onsight pretty quickly. Eventually made it through the crux after much faffing with pads and traversing in with gear, didn't bother with the finish. Keen to come back and do it in better style.

Hidden 07/Apr/17 Lead O/S
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
Flavio 04/Dec/16 2nd O/S
JendeHoxar 04/Dec/16 Lead dog
with Flavio
Hidden 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
JamesTurnbull97 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull 23/Oct/16 2nd

Typical Almscliffe, freezing cold, not warmed up, pumpy. Good job I can jam those horizontal breaks.

deacondeacon 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Used all my medium cams early so was very run out along the final traverse. Bit too pumpy as a warm up but I always choose poor routes to warm up on :)

Mike Todd 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
scarmichael 24/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Steve Wooton
soph 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Frances Taylor
JDSwain 24/Sep/16 2nd


with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Dominique, Swain
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 19/Sep/16 2nd dnf
tinab 11/Sep/16 2nd

Seconded Charlie on his first E2- brilliant, added to the lead list!

Hidden 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S
DaveHo 31/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Charlie H
Scott Quinn 27/Aug/16 2nd rpt

still an awesome little route

with Chris
tunnah 27/Aug/16 Lead dog

should of got this

CMoore 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Lakesben 21/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Mike W, Mark
jammy4536 16/Aug/16 Lead β
Hidden 16/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Chazhoz99 ?/Aug/16 Lead
Alistair Corbett ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Robinson
Jmpollard 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Chuffed finally get on this! Crux is definitely reaching the first break, and then it's just a case of fighting off the pump!

with Chris glover
ChrisGlover1995 12/Jul/16 2nd O/S
AC1 27/Jun/16 -
with Michael Barnard
JayAyBee 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Nuala
Kelsey 23/Jun/16 2nd
with James
Hidden 22/Jun/16 2nd rpt
markfairbank 08/Jun/16 Lead dog

Start is probably the technical crux but its a pumpy number!

ArranLaird 08/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Tom McCabe 08/May/16 Lead β

Mostly on Joe's gear until the bulge, still managed to nearly fall off the start.

Mike Todd 07/May/16 Lead rpt
JRJones 17/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Absolute shambles, need to get down the gym some more

Martin Ibbotson 10/Apr/16 Lead rpt

There is now a small cam in the top break - good luck getting it out. I tried for 20 minutes..

with Ben
Lakesben 10/Apr/16 2nd
Martin Ibbotson 09/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Mike Todd 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Scott Quinn 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Tom.Priestley 25/Mar/16 2nd dog

Pumpy, Would be a good stamina test for me to lead.

Hidden 20/Mar/16 2nd O/S
AJMullen ??/2016 2nd dog
Mike Todd 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
andy jennings 17/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Mr. Lovatt
redshapedfriday 23/Aug/15 Lead dog
GPN 23/Aug/15 2nd rpt
andy jennings 19/Aug/15 2nd β
with keith
climberchristy 11/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Done as first lead of day (after a bit of easy bouldering) as warm-up for The Wall of Horrors. Still love this route!

with Vanessa
Owen W-G 06/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Got too pumped too early and couldn't progress up pocketed crack bit. Day 5 on after hard day previous is my excuse. Good conditions.

Steve Wootton 02/Aug/15 Lead RP

First E2 clean :)

Steve Wootton 29/Jul/15 Lead dog

One rest first E2! :)

Hannes B 25/Jul/15 Solo rpt
Mike Todd 23/Jul/15 Lead rpt
benkelsey 16/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Teappleby, Shaun Humphreys
Teappleby 16/Jul/15 2nd

Good lead from Shaun, felt fine today and alot easier than last summer.

shaunhumphreys 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Hung around for ages trying to place gear cos apparently ive forgotten how too!! pumpy! was glad of the jams at the end!

david morse 09/Jul/15 Lead β

First trad route of the year. Not a good warm up, got mega flash pumped and a bit scared

with Dragon
Hidden 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tim newton 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy but no where near as hard as something like The Rasp. Really good.

scottcoates 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/15 2nd
Dave Mayes 07/Jun/15 Lead G/U

Pumped... Downclimbed... Pumped... Downclimbed... Ploughed on

with Jack
Hidden 13/May/15 Lead O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 11/May/15 Lead rpt
with Neil Lowry
frost 04/May/15 2nd
with John Sealy
John sealey 04/May/15 Lead
with si frost
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 04/May/15 Lead rpt

still a fight

with Roisin
PeteWilson 13/Apr/15 Lead β

on andi's gear, still really pleased to do this first go as a warm up, great route!

with John P, Andi T
Bloke on a Rope 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pure class and pretty strenuous, best done quickly. Need to do again sometime coz used some of Matts gear , which would have made it a bit easier.

with Matt
Hidden 20/Mar/15 Solo O/S
will9911 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 04/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Ed carrigan 12/Oct/14 Lead
Duncan Campbell 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good holds all the way but pumpy! Look for the positive little pockets in the breaks... mega

with Flo, Bubbles
RKirke 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Not as pumpy as I was expecting, good jugs the whole way up.

with Alex T
Alex the Alex 30/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Rog
scarmichael 29/Sep/14 Lead RP

Took a few goes to work it but absolutely incredible climb when linked together, worth the effort. Climb fast and you'll be sweet!

Hidden 28/Sep/14 Sent
samwillo 26/Sep/14 Solo
with Tom Fleming
Morgan P 25/Sep/14 2nd dog

Took 2 rests just before the end of the hand traverse / rock over leftwards

Bron H 25/Sep/14 Lead RP
WillDoyle 24/Sep/14 Lead O/S
poigol5043 24/Sep/14 2nd
NewHam 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Callum Smith 18/Sep/14 2nd
Freshprintce 10/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Rob Grant 07/Sep/14 Lead
climberchristy 06/Sep/14 Lead

As good as ever!

with bencole
GrahamPlant 03/Sep/14 Lead
with Will Smith
Hannes B 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan S
PaulTanton 12/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead rpt
chris smith 08/Aug/14 Lead dog

Pumpy and hard! The climbing is just a strength test, nothing technical at all about it.

Teappleby 07/Aug/14 2nd

pumpy, but no really hard moves. Definitely didn't think it was 5c, maybe pumpy 5b?

Matthew Ferrier 07/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Calum Wadsworth 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Chuffed to get it clean this time, pumpy all the way but new which pieces of gear to place and where to place them, so I was able to sprint up before I got too pumped!

Hidden 30/Jul/14 2nd dog
tsjx 30/Jul/14 2nd dnf

John, pumped, bailed at the final moves onto the jams and finished up Black Wall, I followed his line (clean).

with John Mc
David Stevens 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with James Turner, Keith
nick ferro 22/Jul/14 2nd
Olli-C 22/Jul/14 Lead RP

Good to get it clean after trying the other week. Way easier when you know what's coming.

with Swanny, Chris Waddle
Olli-C 10/Jul/14 Lead dog

Forgot my blinkers and didn't get sprinting.

with jonno, Chris Waddle
PaulTanton 03/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 01/Jul/14 Lead G/U

rushed the start and blew the onsight!

Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Wizzy 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Such a class route. Soft E2 but brilliant. One of the best at the crag for sure

Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
oread 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S

brilliant line, ridiculed by stabbs over the lack of gear placed

rikbattye 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
robman 05/Apr/14 Lead rpt
tomB 05/Apr/14 2nd dog
Matt Harle 24/Mar/14 Lead rpt
alexm198 24/Mar/14 2nd dog

Brilliant climb, shame I couldn't get up it in the style it deserves! Bottom half is gorgeous, bouldery stuff, top is a thuggish pump fest. Came off numerous times trying to get established in the horizontal crack at the top.

Andy Peak 1 15/Mar/14 Lead

Strait out the car, no worm up and in gale force winds, didnt deserv to get clean as i climbd badley! Very good route all the same:-)

robertmctague ??/2014 Lead O/S
Tom_Shill ??/2014 2nd
robertmctague ??/2014 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Nez ??/2014 -
Mike Todd 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Bit pumpy through the roof but lovely moves throughout.

Calum Wadsworth 16/Nov/13 Lead dog

Pulled into the break above the pockets was insanely pumped. Threw in a cam attempted to pull to the AMAZING jams but slumped onto the gear. Had a rest then finished it off... Next time!

with Craig D
Mike_Hayes 10/Nov/13 Sent
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/13 TR dog
pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 17/Oct/13 2nd
with Jon Morgan
morganator 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/13 TR
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd rpt
elCapitano 05/Oct/13 2nd rpt
lanky and weak 24/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with John McCune
Dino Dave 23/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Sam
Dino Dave 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ben, Kirsty
Rhys Macallister 21/Sep/13 Lead
PaulTanton 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Lead it and soloed it several times before

elCapitano 12/Sep/13 Solo rpt
Jono_LS16 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
salix 07/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Up to gear, and next break, then it pissed it down. Hung about till pumped then traversed off. Repeat! finally some sun but I was too pumped. Lovely start to get established on flake though.

with Chetwin
Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead β
ERH 15/Aug/13 Lead β

May have gone the wrong way, so says Ben, but he reckons it was worth the tick

with Ben Finley
Dibdawg 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Vassen
pastep 10/Aug/13 Lead
with Will242
Will242 10/Aug/13 2nd
with pastep
SMThompson1 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with John Burrow
Tom Heslam 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Soft E1? Good gear, massive holds, and awesome little route.

with Tom Rogers
rob.grafton 16/Jul/13 2nd
with Martin Smith
Chris Reid 09/Jul/13 Solo
elCapitano 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Jonny
MikeLeeds 04/Jul/13 Lead rpt

One piece of preplaced gear from Kev's Birdlime Traverse. The secret is not to get pumped faffing around with gear.

Hidden 03/Jul/13 2nd O/S
MikeLeeds 25/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Got too pumped placing gear, pulling up to look at it, not trusting it altering it, faffing!

with Kieran
Andy S 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Fell of the first moves three times and got some nice rope burn on my leg. Got so far as the middle break but wasn't happy so backed off. It's a pumpy number. Awesome line - I'll come back when I'm fitter!

with Richard
Andrew Wilson 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Just the big 3 left now. . .

tommytwotone 03/May/13 2nd

A real fight - looking forward to coming back and doing it on the other end of the rope.

with Mike
MeMeMe 03/May/13 Lead
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead β
ERH ?/May/13 -
ebf 21/Apr/13 TR
pastep 21/Apr/13 TR β
with ebf
climberchristy 13/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Excellent. Still felt really pumpy even though fitter now than when i did it a year or two ago.

with bencole
riven 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Neil Stabbs
NaomiHart 01/Mar/13 Lead β
Matthew Ferrier 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Really glad the finish was easier. . .

Julian Cooper 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
Hidden 14/Oct/12 2nd
Julian Cooper 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
climbingpixie 06/Oct/12 2nd dog

Managed the crux ok but pumped out before making the moves up to the good jams. No really hard moves, just knackering!

James Oswald 06/Oct/12 Lead dog

A poor effort, needed to keep moving. Very very pumped.

with Andy Hobson, Julie Mair
victim of mathematics 29/Sep/12 2nd dog

Fell off the crux, did it second go then had to rest half way up. Brilliant route, not my finest hour.

with Andy
Tim Rodgers 29/Sep/12 2nd dog
with David Forster
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Well protected but strenuous

danny33 06/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/12 2nd dog
petekeron 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Katrina Adam
kitkat78 21/Aug/12 2nd dnf

Started up without much expectation - got further than I expected, but not surprised to end the day completely boxed!

with Pete K
g1m147 18/Aug/12 2nd
with Steve
Harry Holmes 16/Aug/12 Solo O/S
David_Gledson 19/Jul/12 Lead β

My first e2, a superb route, just keep moving! The first two placements are bombers wires, then larger cams.

with Tom
riven 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Chriswallis2 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Joe
kyaizawa 19/Jun/12 2nd dog
NaomiHart 27/May/12 2nd β
PeteH 27/May/12 Lead RP

Good to get this two years after I first took a lob off it! Still pumpy, though, and not by any means a sure thing...

with Chris Moxon, Naomi Hart
Si dH 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Quite strenuous, really good. Top traverse took some committing. The bottom move was hard and felt a bit intense, no mats. I think I might have missed a hold though.

with Chris Foster
Hidden 16/Mar/12 Lead
barni 16/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Tapper
Matt Harle 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tophe 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Dan
dannyboy83 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 11/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Felix
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd dog
feilx 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
robertmichaellovell 10/Mar/12 Lead

very nice, awesome day to open the trad season

with Sam, Clare
Hidden 06/Jan/12 -
daprince ??/2012 -
mark20 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
benchwarmer 12/Nov/11 Lead dog
with andy
Graeme Hammond 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Excellent :) No mat used for the start as the soggy ground provided enough incentive to do it first time.

with Becky E
TRFrost 01/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with R. Timms
timmsy 01/Nov/11 Lead

reach around the corner bulge into recovery jams

Tom Keaveny 31/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

So much fun! Safe as you like, with some really good moves. Didnt have a guidebook, just looked like a nice bit of rock. So the line we took was direct to the top. From the obvious break where the book says go left, i mantled up and finished straight up. Dont know why this isn't an accepted variation, because it was really good fun!

with Jonny
owb106 30/Oct/11 TR β
funsized 30/Oct/11 Lead β

Flashed with bouldering matt protecting first move. Lovely style from jake, climbing it sans-guidebook! Brilliant and protected climbing

with Jake Lloyd
bigdrew 29/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Lisa
jacobjacob 29/Oct/11 Solo β
LisaA 29/Oct/11 Lead RP

2nd go. Pumped first time.

with Andy
ChrisWills 29/Oct/11 2nd dog
Matt Cooke 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
Peter Smith 23/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Mick Leather
dave o 20/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Graham
gforce 20/Sep/11 2nd
with Dave O
Peter Smith 17/Sep/11 TR O/S
with Mick Leather
Hidden 09/Sep/11 2nd
Peter Holder 09/Sep/11 Lead
beds74 03/Sep/11 2nd

Good lead from Neil

Hidden 03/Sep/11 -
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead dnf
riven 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 01/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Si
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
LisaA 31/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Got really really pumped so placed gear a bit spaced. Fell off just before final traverse and fell most of the route so no chance of getting back on. Also my arms had stopped responding to instructions. Coming back for it soon!

waynem1985 28/Aug/11 Lead dog

An amazing route, i loved every part of it, the flakes to the balancy technical crimps and lay backs. Run out of juice about 3 moves from the end had a phone call from me dad, and then finished up the route. I will be back to send it.

markalmack 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
lanky and weak ?/Aug/11 Lead β
with Ben Hirst
Mowglee 30/Jul/11 Lead dog

Too pumped and sweaty hands at the top

brockers 13/Jul/11 Lead

fell halfway across final traverse. Way pumpy! Managed it on second try. That jam is a lifesaver!

with Nibbs
Anthony Dixon 12/Jul/11 Lead β

Jim left gear in first break after his attempt

Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
scallan022 03/Jul/11 TR RP
JRae 26/Jun/11 Lead
chrism225 26/Jun/11 2nd dog

So tired after previous climbs, arms gave up before i could sink the jam at the top.

with jonny
Hidden 22/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/11 Solo rpt
MeMeMe 08/Jun/11 2nd
with Pete
MeMeMe 06/Jun/11 Lead
with Pete
esther ?/Jun/11 Lead
mattnuttall 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead rpt
James Oakes 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Cooper
coombsy 12/Apr/11 Lead β

First E2 lead so dead chuffed to get it. Made a bit of a hash getting round the nose in the top break and thought I was off a couple of times til I got a bomber jam in. Wanged in a cam then heaved the final few feet on tired arms. Top climb!

with Rich G
Rich Guest 10/Apr/11 Solo

Finally soloed after various sessions over the years. Felt great to do it! Gorgeous Sunday morning, alone at the crag at about 08.30

Hidden 10/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
robin_hackney 03/Apr/11 Lead RP

Fantastic satisfying route that requires planning to succeed. Ditherers will fail!

with Failure of my second - I had to second it myself :(
Hidden 02/Apr/11 TR rpt
Ewan Russell 27/Mar/11 Solo rpt

Credit to chris for lending me a chalkbag. tried to run at chevin was really struggling having not recovered from my last run. As I struggled past caley popped up pedestal wall. Realised how much more fun soloing is than running. Ran back to my car, drove to cliff. Conditions were prime on my normal solo circuit(sans DW). Asked chris if I could borrow his chalk bag and got on it. Fell off the crux(didn't use my feet) but got it second go and the rest was just pumpy HVS init. (sorry logbook stalkers, who probably note I don't normally record repeat solos but fuck it MADE UP :) )

with Chris geog master
cobweb 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with martyn hopson
cobweb 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with martyn hopson
Mowglee 24/Feb/11 Lead β

Pumpy! But safe as houses and no particularly hard moves. (belayed Tim on it before. First E2 since '07)

with Tim E
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 Solo
Hidden 07/Nov/10 2nd
ollyroberts 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tom
GrantB 21/Sep/10 2nd
petellis 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

In a borrowed harness as a swap for a boulder pad - cheers guys! Wanted to do this for years, and was cocky enough to go for it as a warm-up. Got pretty pumped by the angle but steady moves on big holds so just keep chugging on. Don't remember much from previously seconding this so claiming OS.

ekaterina sigida 17/Sep/10 2nd

Such a cool climb. positive holds, overhanging and pumpy. Very enjoyable and technical just my style. Rob had 4 pieces of gear all cams. last one wasn't very well placed i had to rest on the rope trying to retrieve the cam.

with Rob Bridges
roberto18 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 08/Sep/10 Lead RP
MikeLeeds 08/Sep/10 2nd rpt
middlevern 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nick ferro 30/Jun/10 2nd
DavidR 22/Jun/10 Lead rpt last, and very pleased to finally have got this in the bag! Third time lucky. Still very pumpy!

Hidden 22/Jun/10 2nd
chrishedgehog 03/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Ground to an eventual halt where it heads left round the nose to finish. Moves felt ok onsight but it overhangs 8ft as I discovered abseiling for the gear and you definitely feel it towards the top if you aren't fit!

with Jamie Van A
DavidR 01/Jun/10 Lead dog

Second go at this, after first getting on it years ago. Did far better this time, but still not clean - got stupidly pumped trying to place gear. Ended up resting just before the final traverse left. Will go next time.

Tez29 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Pumped near the top.

with Ivan
robin_hackney 23/May/10 2nd O/S

Start feels better than it looks. Top traverse/finish feels really hard on your arms.

Dave Foster 23/May/10 Lead rpt
with Robin
Peter Holder 19/May/10 Lead O/S
AdzBibby 18/May/10 Lead O/S
kieranlivett 18/May/10 2nd dog
with james.peter
Jack00 17/May/10 Lead rpt
with Olly
Dave Warburton 14/May/10 Lead O/S

Wish i was slightly less tired to really enjoy the last jamming crack!

with bojan, Ben, Ewan
Jack00 14/May/10 2nd rpt
with Rob
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 26/Apr/10 2nd
Ewan Russell 22/Apr/10 Lead RP

So easy, have seconded it before. for some odd reason cruised the first bit and just popped off before I got any gear in. O well :).

with Connor
cobweb 20/Apr/10 Lead


Hidden 08/Apr/10 2nd
dan gibson 03/Apr/10 Lead
with michael porter
Hidden 03/Apr/10 Lead
simon kimber ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hanski ?/Apr/10 2nd
NaomiHart 27/Mar/10 2nd dog
with Noel Peatfield, Peter Hart
PeteH 27/Mar/10 Lead dog

Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Fantastic climbing, a shame not to get this clean. Off to do laps on indoor 6bs!

AlistairB 13/Mar/10 Lead dnf

Fell off top traverse, didn't jam it, forgot to switch back to grit mode after all that sport climbing!

with Elliot
ebf 30/Jan/10 TR dog

Technical crux is low down (and quite safe), but strong moves all the way up. The jams in the upper traverse are life saving.

pastep 30/Jan/10 TR dog
with ebf
RossG ??/2010 -
Dave Foster 15/Nov/09 Lead

Needed a rest just before the bomber wire in the vertical crack. Pumpy placing gear until you know exactly where the best placements are. Great jams on last section. Looking forward to having another go.

with Andy
Rowansb ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
uphillnow 06/Oct/09 2nd

Stuart lead very direct without the traverse. Believe I have done it it the normal line

with Stuart Holmes
simonp ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Neil Stabbs
akhughes 28/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/09 2nd
Alex Winter 03/Sep/09 Lead O/S
karly54 31/Aug/09 Lead dnf

First took a fall from the flake, nose dived to the floor, arose unscathed. Climbed in the bottom break which with hindsight was a mistake. Got flash pump and decided at the top to go right and not left (in my weakened state it looked harder)and finished up the VS notch of Black Wall....DAMN! Missed the Onsight but a good afternoon with good people. Looking forward to round 2 now.

with Micks friend Lucy, Mick Sadler
Hidden 31/Aug/09 2nd dog
martinazando 31/Aug/09 2nd
al99 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Mattyk 30/Jul/09 Lead dnf

ended up chickening onto blackwall again. :o(

with John Marsham
andy gravestock 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S

great climbing really enjoyable although got nailed by a wagg tail just after the crux move at the start as i went to reach for the break. nearly lost it...

with allex
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead dnf
MeMeMe 18/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Andy
mike fenwick ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Matthew Gibbins
Peter Holder 13/May/09 Lead O/S
with Adam Rawlings
Katie Marshall 29/Apr/09 2nd
with Tuze
duzinga 29/Apr/09 Lead dog

1 rest

with Katie
Alex Mason 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Nearly fluffed it with my fluffy stamina, only steve shouting 'JAM!' kept me on the top, not the soft touch people say?

Ewan Russell 19/Apr/09 2nd dog
Sylvi 21/Mar/09 2nd dnf
with Peter
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Shaw Brown 22/Nov/08 2nd
GPN 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
v man 12/Oct/08 2nd dog
Sean_J 01/Sep/08 Solo β
Toby Dunn ?/Sep/08 -
DJayB 08/Aug/08 Lead dog

Again, just not my day!

chris2451 08/Aug/08 2nd
MikeLeeds ?/Aug/08 2nd
clive-greenwood ?/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Will Hunt 23/Jul/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Jul/08 -
Hidden 27/Jun/08 2nd dnf
Jack00 09/May/08 2nd O/S
with JoeL 90
joe larner 09/May/08 Lead O/S
Jon Read 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
IanJackson 09/Mar/08 Solo rpt
with Robeverybody
IanJackson 04/Mar/08 Solo rpt
with Peter
IanJackson 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Pretty soft for the grade, shame it is not more sustained. A 5c move with a 4c jug/jam dash! Really nice route never the less!

with Big Ian
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd
Will Hunt 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Yay! First natural grit E2 onsight. :-)

Boy ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Brian
ali_robb ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 15/Sep/07 AltLd dog

Brilliant route, pumpy but not too technical. Had all the gear in and bottled the last traverse only to find perfect jams on a second attempt - doh!

with Rik
Hidden 12/Sep/07 2nd rpt
alexyoung 08/Sep/07 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Aug/07 -
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Apr/07 -
Tim Steward 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ollie Mentz
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
northernneil ??/2007 -
RossG123 ??/2007 -
alaan 21/Sep/06 Lead rpt

Brilliant, if only it were possible to savour it for little longer instead of sprinting for the top.

with Chris
Nick Beckett ?/Sep/06 Lead
with various
Nick Beckett ?/Sep/06 Lead
with various
Hidden 19/Jul/06 Lead
MeMeMe 18/Jul/06 Lead rpt
with Andy
DavidR 04/Jul/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Jul/06 2nd dnf
Sankey 25/Jun/06 2nd dog

One rest.

with Luke
Hidden 10/May/06 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 10/May/06 Lead O/S

Really pumpy and really satisfying

reg_measures ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ralph
ukb & bmc shark 11/Feb/06 Lead rpt
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden ??/2006 -
Bella 22/Oct/05 2nd
with Michael
WB 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S


with Ross
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/05 2nd O/S
sdht ??/2005 -
Hidden 26/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 24/Jul/04 Lead rpt
pezzerrr 07/Jun/04 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Rich Guest ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S

Bagged this great E2 onsight whilst really going well on grit. Perfect conditions and great company made it one of my favourite experiences. Do Black Wall Direct immediatley afterwards to understand how the Britsh grading system and grit can combine to really fuck your head up!

Ram MkiV ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/03 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 26/Aug/02 Lead dog
with Andy Simpson
Nigel Coe 22/Aug/02 -
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Reid 17/May/02 Lead O/S
with Rob Muirhead
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead O/S
shoulders 20/Apr/02 Lead
with neil
whispering nic ?/Mar/02 Solo
pezzerrr 28/Oct/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 26/Oct/99 Solo rpt
with jon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/Dec/98 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/98 Lead RP
innes ?/May/98 Solo
Rich Kirby 22/Mar/98 Lead
jameshiggins ??/1998 -
jfmchivall ??/1998 -
sadams 25/Oct/97 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
p.crooky#1 23/Oct/97 2nd
with Ecca
Hidden 03/May/97 Lead
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead β
with gaz
FATBOYFAT ??/1997 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 11/Sep/96 Solo
innes ?/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett 13/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with andrew haigh
SR1970 ?/Mar/96 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 10/Sep/95 2nd
with Bruce
rob.grafton 02/Jul/95 Lead
with Bruce
goi.ashmore 19/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Matt Hirst
Hidden 09/May/95 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
leathers ??/1995 2nd
with Julian Simmons
rob.grafton 04/Sep/94 Lead
with Jim, Bruce
rob.grafton 29/Mar/94 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
tmawer 21/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Andy
crater 28/Jun/93 TR
rob.grafton 27/Apr/93 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
alkira 13/Jul/92 -
with james turner
Pete Pozman 21/Jun/92 2nd dog
with John Byrne
John Southworth 03/May/92 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jan/92 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
adam carless ??/1992 2nd O/S

nice sharp holds, but it's all slightly overhanging

with Dan Moore?
jhardwick ??/1992 Lead O/S
nai ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/91 Lead O/S
pete johnson 22/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Andy Blakely
Roget 12/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
charlesmfrench 25/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Larry Parkes
rob.grafton 09/Jul/91 Lead
with Bruce
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead

c. 1991

Dave Musgrove 11/Oct/90 Lead
with David
Steve Crowe 29/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with KM
rob.grafton 24/Jul/90 Lead
with Bruce
andybirtwistle 12/May/90 Lead
with Steve Brewis
jfletcher 06/May/90 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Chambers
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Unsure
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/May/89 Lead O/S

found it a right struggle

Nick Biven 29/Mar/88 TR
with Martyn Hannan
duncan ??/1988 Solo O/S
with Julian Mathias
ukb & bmc shark 02/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Graeme Telfer
Bruce Kerr 30/Aug/87 Lead
with Rick 'The Stick' Campbell
Hidden 20/Aug/87 Lead rpt
craig h 20/Aug/87 2nd dnf

Having done all the VS climbs at Almscliff, including Great Western VS 5a (1982 guide) we moved onto our first HVS! Duncan placed 2 bits of gear, 1st after the crux, 2nd in the vertical crack just before the overhang. He fell from the horizontal break about 3ft above the last runner, the karabiner broke and he took a 40ft ground fall. 40 minutes on his back in a large puddle of cow shit and mud, the ambulance men did comment that thankfully the cows had dysentery and it was a wet summer. Didn't help when someone said it had been upgraded to E2 in the new supplement, was a bit too late for us though.

Neil McA 19/Aug/87 Solo rpt
with Andy Perkins
Moses 04/Aug/87 Lead O/S
John Marsland 13/Sep/86 Lead
with Eduardo Martinez
Bullybones ??/1985 Lead
Roy Stuart ??/1984 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Sep/83 -
with Andy Nicholson, Andy Wild
GaryM ??/1982 Lead O/S

Same day as I led Om at Stoney middleton

with Skinner, Dale
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/80 Solo rpt
GeoffG 06/Jun/79 2nd
with tony bowker
Dave Musgrove 18/Sep/76 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 82
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 75
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set