10m.

Rockfax Description
A hard and height-dependant start is followed by a pause at the break and a final heave over the roof. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 7.11.90. Reclimbed in 1993 after losing a hold. 07/Nov/1990

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
hotsteve33 5 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed this is nails!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed this is nails!
Marcus B 22 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Damn right pete
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Damn right pete
crispygts 21 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: good point
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good point
JIMBO 21 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: The top crux is as follows...using foot locks in the break undercut the lip with the left hand and reach the rail with the right. Gain the pocket above with the right and grab the small crimper up and left. Bring the feet over the lip and go again with the left to a mono pinch. Lift the right foot onto the ramp and strech for the intermediate slopper (left) and then the top jug. Easy when you know how...V6
 
Show beta
βeta: The top crux is as follows...using foot locks in the break undercut the lip with the left hand and reach the rail with the right. Gain the pocket above with the right and grab the small crimper up and left. Bring the feet over the lip and go again with the left to a mono pinch. Lift the right foot onto the ramp and strech for the intermediate slopper (left) and then the top jug. Easy when you know how...V6
JIMBO 20 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: The no-hands rest below the final roof makes this an easy 7b+. The bottom is best achieved with a heel hook out right on the doorframe sized edge, especially if your short!
βeta?
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βeta: The no-hands rest below the final roof makes this an easy 7b+. The bottom is best achieved with a heel hook out right on the doorframe sized edge, especially if your short!
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28 Jan, 2017 Lead dog BIG span at the bottom and top. One staple belay with one bent steel.
BIG span at the bottom and top. One staple belay with one bent steel.
dannyboy83 18 Nov, 2012 Lead RP Very good little route but not absolutely no chance this is 7c as the voting suggests! At least a grade easy than Plyometrical
with Sky
Very good little route but not absolutely no chance this is 7c as the voting suggests! At least a grade easy than Plyometrical
with Sky
tedj234 ?Mar, 2011 Sent To jug
To jug
Hidden 27 Nov, 2010 Sent dnf
Martin Krasnansky 11 Feb, 2010 Lead RP only the boulder in 1.half
only the boulder in 1.half
bigie bob 17 Aug, 2007 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden 19 Aug, 1999 Lead RP
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Lead
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set