Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

24m.

Rockfax Description
Intricate and sustained climbing up the wall just to the right of the long groove of Cybernetic Orchard. Start right of a low overhang below a difficult-to-see bolt. Climb up broken ground to the main wall. Climb the wall directly via some hard climbing in its mid section. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The flake/crack/block below the last bolt has come off, luckily no one was hurt. The route will now be a lot harder and will need to be reinspected (Oct 2019).

FA. Gary Gibson 04/May/2006

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
afterthesend 10 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Seems to be okay after reported rockfall. Not too much harder, but definitely not the romp to the top it once was.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems to be okay after reported rockfall. Not too much harder, but definitely not the romp to the top it once was.
tomrainbow 22 Apr, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic route, steep, juggy and more exposed than your average Portland 6c. Will clean up well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route, steep, juggy and more exposed than your average Portland 6c. Will clean up well.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Richard Kendrick 21 Mar Lead RP Still 7b!
with Joanna Camp
Still 7b!
with Joanna Camp
afterthesend 10 Jan Lead RP
Hidden ?? Lead
beefy_legacy 10 Nov, 2019 Lead dog Too hard for me at the moment, awesome climbing on the slab though. One for next year.
Too hard for me at the moment, awesome climbing on the slab though. One for next year.
Martin Bagshaw 19 Oct, 2019 Lead dnf Pulled onto the jugs at the end of the hard climbing to have the block they were attached it rip out. About 1m by 50cm block came off, glad I had an attentive belayer as otherwise we may well have both been toast. Not any obvious loose bits left, but the route will no doubt be harder now.
Pulled onto the jugs at the end of the hard climbing to have the block they were attached it rip out. About 1m by 50cm block came off, glad I had an attentive belayer as otherwise we may well have both been toast. Not any obvious loose bits left, but the route will no doubt be harder now.
Kev Little 19 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
with Pete Shepherd
with Pete Shepherd
Cedric Monzali 21 Jul, 2019 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 30 Jun, 2019 TR rpt TRRP. A victory of sorts I guess. Got slightly further on the lead attempt. Remember to rest out left after the first crux, get the sidepull undercut to make it up to the rail, chill out, then mantle, and not slip off when you are on top of it!
with Andy M
TRRP. A victory of sorts I guess. Got slightly further on the lead attempt. Remember to rest out left after the first crux, get the sidepull undercut to make it up to the rail, chill out, then mantle, and not slip off when you are on top of it!
with Andy M
Hidden 22 May, 2019 TR rpt
Phil Davidson 13 May, 2019 Lead dog Portland holds and destroyed tips......
with Millsy
Portland holds and destroyed tips......
with Millsy
Wil Treasure 14 Apr, 2019 Lead RP
with Lorne
with Lorne
Wayne.Gaudin 28 Mar, 2019 Lead dog Cruise to the first crux then too hard for me. The second crux did me as well. 2nd go didn't feel any easier. One for another, stronger time.
Cruise to the first crux then too hard for me. The second crux did me as well. 2nd go didn't feel any easier. One for another, stronger time.
Lukechandler 24 Mar, 2019 Lead RP
Hidden 17 Mar, 2019 Lead dog
Hidden 23 Feb, 2019 TR dog
Hidden 14 Feb, 2019 TR dog
Hidden 2 Jan, 2019 TR dog
Hidden 30 Dec, 2018 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 30 Dec, 2018 Lead dog Made it to the mantle, then fluffed it. Should have had another go really, my kind of route.
Made it to the mantle, then fluffed it. Should have had another go really, my kind of route.
brian watson 2 Nov, 2018 Lead RP First go. Felt solid. Writing down the sequence worked !!
with Mike Hawkins
First go. Felt solid. Writing down the sequence worked !!
with Mike Hawkins
brian watson 13 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Refresh and wrote down my sequence. Need to get on it fresher . . . . .
with Callum
Refresh and wrote down my sequence. Need to get on it fresher . . . . .
with Callum
Sam Head 5 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
with Dad
with Dad
marcduhig 20 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt 2nd go
with Edward W
2nd go
with Edward W
adamsriches 7 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Went 4th go, great route, some techy balancey moves as the pump is creeping in.
Went 4th go, great route, some techy balancey moves as the pump is creeping in.
S.Kew 5 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
nacnud 19 May, 2018 Lead RP
with danJBA
with danJBA
YamCam 19 May, 2018 Lead dog
with Emily Y
with Emily Y
Q.Estelles 5 May, 2018 Lead dog
dbrooks 29 Apr, 2018 Lead dog got all the moves pretty quickly but couldn't get it together for the RP.. I'm blaming jet lag
with Dexter
got all the moves pretty quickly but couldn't get it together for the RP.. I'm blaming jet lag
with Dexter
Hidden 21 Apr, 2018 Lead RP
julesmckim 25 Mar, 2018 Lead RP Blew the on-sight due to on-sight nerves...wrong-handed, grit in the eye and a bleeding finger...all over the place. Quick work, good rest then first red-point. Two very long reaches but not too technical otherwise. The successful redpoint was a bit of a surprise as felt tired and very pumped working it.
with Rado
Blew the on-sight due to on-sight nerves...wrong-handed, grit in the eye and a bleeding finger...all over the place. Quick work, good rest then first red-point. Two very long reaches but not too technical otherwise. The successful redpoint was a bit of a surprise as felt tired and very pumped working it.
with Rado
Dandan 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Accidental onsight after thinking I was on Portland heights! Pretty decent route.
Accidental onsight after thinking I was on Portland heights! Pretty decent route.
brian watson 24 Feb, 2018 Lead dog Great route, still can do all the moves but stringing it together is tough, got to get on it soon to make it work. 3 sessions today.
with Mike Hawkins
Great route, still can do all the moves but stringing it together is tough, got to get on it soon to make it work. 3 sessions today.
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
samparsons 27 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
mattb42 25 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
vickydavies 28 May, 2017 Lead dog Thought that I was on Portland heights! No wonder it felt hard, but actually felt pretty good. Moved right to a small side pull rather than going for the chalked rails before the big move to the jug - short person beta.
Thought that I was on Portland heights! No wonder it felt hard, but actually felt pretty good. Moved right to a small side pull rather than going for the chalked rails before the big move to the jug - short person beta.
EmilyElouise 28 May, 2017 2nd
Hidden 25 May, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 13 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
brian watson 5 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Same shit different day . . . . . Maybe even less endurance!
with Mike Hawkins
Same shit different day . . . . . Maybe even less endurance!
with Mike Hawkins
RadekNowak 22 May, 2016 Lead RP soft, should have gone at first RP but took longer, clearly i am weak. still, well worth it, TOP 50 imho
with artmal
soft, should have gone at first RP but took longer, clearly i am weak. still, well worth it, TOP 50 imho
with artmal
artmal 15 May, 2016 Lead RP
ArrMcC 14 May, 2016 Lead RP 1st RP My second 7b, six days after my first! A lot easier than my previous one. Great route however there is currently seagulls nesting below and just to the right of Portland heights. I have an amusing video of them attacking my friend whilst redpointing this route, so beware!
1st RP My second 7b, six days after my first! A lot easier than my previous one. Great route however there is currently seagulls nesting below and just to the right of Portland heights. I have an amusing video of them attacking my friend whilst redpointing this route, so beware!
ArrMcC 1 May, 2016 TR dog Awesome route. Got all the moves quickly and linked it from the crux section to the top. Will be on redpoint next session!
with Chloe Davidson
Awesome route. Got all the moves quickly and linked it from the crux section to the top. Will be on redpoint next session!
with Chloe Davidson
Chloe 1 May, 2016 TR dog Almost flashed this. Fell off the big move from the rail to the jug. A dyno for me, tried it a few times but couldn't get it. Did it from there to the top.
with ArrMcC
Almost flashed this. Fell off the big move from the rail to the jug. A dyno for me, tried it a few times but couldn't get it. Did it from there to the top.
with ArrMcC
brian watson 16 Apr, 2016 Lead dog Did all the moves first go with rests, lacking endurance.
Did all the moves first go with rests, lacking endurance.
Sophie Nunn 16 Apr, 2016 Lead RP 3rd go
3rd go
JackMac 25 Mar, 2016 Lead RP Finally after fluffing the dyno/pop to the ledge a few times.
with Hayley, Nathan, lawsy_boy1, jlgoddard
Finally after fluffing the dyno/pop to the ledge a few times.
with Hayley, Nathan, lawsy_boy1, jlgoddard
Marti999 23 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
AlexD 23 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
with Marti999, Debbie
with Marti999, Debbie
AlexD 19 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
AlexD 17 Mar, 2016 2nd dog
JackMac 12 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
with Tomar
with Tomar
JackMac 5 Mar, 2016 Lead dog 1 go. Feels doable but not as good as Cybernetic Orchard.
with Tomar
1 go. Feels doable but not as good as Cybernetic Orchard.
with Tomar
ThomasB ?Oct, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
DanielGyi 5 Jul, 2015 Lead dog Bit of a stamina fest, but really great climbing in a good position. Psyched to RP this in the future.
Bit of a stamina fest, but really great climbing in a good position. Psyched to RP this in the future.
Hidden 6 Dec, 2014 Lead RP
dan gibson 21 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
with julie carroll
Marti999 6 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
Ed Babs 30 Mar, 2013 Lead RP Very good. Steve's dyno not essential. : )
with trev_f
Very good. Steve's dyno not essential. : )
with trev_f
trev_f 30 Mar, 2013 Lead dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Jobbo 10 Dec, 2012 Lead dog
with mattc
with mattc
rustaldo 19 Jul, 2012 Lead dog Really keen to come back for this! Another for the Portland Project Library. Felt sustained but never too desperate, more of a stamina challenge.
Really keen to come back for this! Another for the Portland Project Library. Felt sustained but never too desperate, more of a stamina challenge.
Ian Bell 19 May, 2012 Lead dnf didn't read the guide properly and thought it was portland heights. none of the moves felt too bad but sustained and ran out of energy. do-able.
with Jasmina
didn't read the guide properly and thought it was portland heights. none of the moves felt too bad but sustained and ran out of energy. do-able.
with Jasmina
Jay81 8 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
with Tomar
with Tomar
Tomar 7 Apr, 2012 Lead RP Great! sustained steep climbing with a couple of tricky sections thrown in for good measure.
with Jay81
Great! sustained steep climbing with a couple of tricky sections thrown in for good measure.
with Jay81
mlg678 29 Oct, 2011 Lead RP My first 7b...Whoop great route. Get up and over the first bolt, then its sustained till the top with 2 ways to do the crux in the middle. either a dyno or some super thin climbing . Maybe a easy one but cant really say as its my first. Awesome!
My first 7b...Whoop great route. Get up and over the first bolt, then its sustained till the top with 2 ways to do the crux in the middle. either a dyno or some super thin climbing . Maybe a easy one but cant really say as its my first. Awesome!
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 10 Nov, 2010 Lead dog Attempting to climb Portland Heights - confused when I found it harder than expected! Great climb - quite technical sections...definitely go back to do clean myself ; )
Attempting to climb Portland Heights - confused when I found it harder than expected! Great climb - quite technical sections...definitely go back to do clean myself ; )
Hidden 23 May, 2010 Lead RP
rubben ??, 2009 Lead dog Attempting to climb Portland Heights - confused when I found it harder than expected! Great climb - quite technical sections...definitely go back to do clean.
Attempting to climb Portland Heights - confused when I found it harder than expected! Great climb - quite technical sections...definitely go back to do clean.
La Mont ??, 2008 -
21 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set