28m.

Rockfax Description
Gradually steepening climbing with an intense sequence midway. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow corner. Climb the shallow corner for about 10m until a line of bolts on the left leads up to a bald wall, just above an overhang. Thin moves up the wall gain easier, but bulging ground that leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 11/May/1996

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
J1_TOV 8 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 1st RP. Super route. Feels thin at first until the sequence comes together. Went slightly right over the roof into a left hand marginal pinch nr the QD then a sequence takes you up & right eventually to a good gaston. This feels stylish. It's also possible to go direct through the monos - although it's not as pleasant.
 
Show beta
βeta: 1st RP. Super route. Feels thin at first until the sequence comes together. Went slightly right over the roof into a left hand marginal pinch nr the QD then a sequence takes you up & right eventually to a good gaston. This feels stylish. It's also possible to go direct through the monos - although it's not as pleasant.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely outstanding.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely outstanding.
UKB Shark 30 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Description should refer to climbing to the left of the bolts as where they are placed is misleading - otherwise an excellent route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Description should refer to climbing to the left of the bolts as where they are placed is misleading - otherwise an excellent route
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Cass31 8 Sep, 2019 Lead RP
with J1_TOV
with J1_TOV
J1_TOV 7 Sep, 2019 Lead RP 1st RP. Super route. I've seen it climbed 3 completely different ways.
1st RP. Super route. I've seen it climbed 3 completely different ways.
S.Kew 28 Jul, 2019 Lead RP
igola 28 Jul, 2019 Lead dog Very technical, fingery route. Went bolt to bolt in sub optimal conditions (very sunny and hot), last climb of the day, tired and no psych.
Very technical, fingery route. Went bolt to bolt in sub optimal conditions (very sunny and hot), last climb of the day, tired and no psych.
Qisheng Xie 14 Jul, 2019 Lead RP This is the definition of top 50, yet it isn't.
This is the definition of top 50, yet it isn't.
Rockmonkey1977 13 Jul, 2019 Lead RP 2nd go which is a result as it felt solid at the grade. Seems like there’s a few different options through the crux, I opted for the slightly right option which has better hands but worse feet... It was a bit of a battle as I didn’t fully remember or trust my sequence but squeezing and pulling hard worked for once... Love the top moves, very rewarding but definitely droppable given the sapping nature of what’s below.
with Will
2nd go which is a result as it felt solid at the grade. Seems like there’s a few different options through the crux, I opted for the slightly right option which has better hands but worse feet... It was a bit of a battle as I didn’t fully remember or trust my sequence but squeezing and pulling hard worked for once... Love the top moves, very rewarding but definitely droppable given the sapping nature of what’s below.
with Will
Honey badger 93 7 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 7 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
Tomar 23 Jun, 2019 Lead RP 1st RP. Really good!
with Alex
1st RP. Really good!
with Alex
Wise 9 Jun, 2019 Lead RP A fantastic sunny day but not too hot so conditions were OK. Bottoms easy and then a good rest below the crux wall. Found a neat sequence through this which suited my style. Loved the top, a compete contrast to what you've just done on big pockets.
A fantastic sunny day but not too hot so conditions were OK. Bottoms easy and then a good rest below the crux wall. Found a neat sequence through this which suited my style. Loved the top, a compete contrast to what you've just done on big pockets.
AnnJ 26 May, 2019 Lead dog Amazing varied route which is hard to read at the beginning.
Amazing varied route which is hard to read at the beginning.
Hidden 19 Apr, 2019 Lead dog
dbrooks 8 Sep, 2018 Lead dog felt quite a bit harder than both half way to heaven and outside the gate
felt quite a bit harder than both half way to heaven and outside the gate
Bettymolly 10 Jun, 2018 Lead dog First 7b dog.... Thought this was the 6b... Hard on the poor fingers
First 7b dog.... Thought this was the 6b... Hard on the poor fingers
Hidden 17 Feb, 2018 Lead RP
Wil Treasure 17 Feb, 2018 Lead dog
ian bryant 4 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Very difficult 2nd clip off tiny crimp
Very difficult 2nd clip off tiny crimp
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Wendy 2 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kate K
with Kate K
Kev Little 4 Sep, 2016 Lead RP
ThomasB 29 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
JackMac 24 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Birthday send - after pumping out sticking the draws in I wasn't expecting to pull it off!
with Paul Roberts
Birthday send - after pumping out sticking the draws in I wasn't expecting to pull it off!
with Paul Roberts
BenL 24 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
with Sam Gill
with Sam Gill
Hidden 17 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
JackMac 31 Mar, 2016 Lead dnf Tried to onsight which didn't go very well. Choosing a slightly greasy mono fest as a potential first onsight of the grade probably wasn't the best idea :) Colors was in better condition.
Tried to onsight which didn't go very well. Choosing a slightly greasy mono fest as a potential first onsight of the grade probably wasn't the best idea :) Colors was in better condition.
Caspian Johnson 14 Mar, 2016 Lead RP Favourite portland route so far. Phenomenal climbing. Helps to have a bit of a reach on you. First rp.
with ollie_e
Favourite portland route so far. Phenomenal climbing. Helps to have a bit of a reach on you. First rp.
with ollie_e
Hidden 14 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
Tommyads ??, 2016 - brilliant
brilliant
Ally Smith 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Techers
Techers
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
td72 ?May, 2015 Lead dnf
nimajneb ?May, 2015 Lead RP
AlexD 22 Sep, 2014 Lead dog Great pockets! Class.
with Vicky
Great pockets! Class.
with Vicky
Rosea Day 9 Aug, 2014 Lead β
NewHam ?Aug, 2014 Lead RP
laurasmitton ?May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 TR dog
3 Names 25 Aug, 2013 Lead RP blew onsight, got it next go.
with Cyan
blew onsight, got it next go.
with Cyan
CRiddiford 29 Jul, 2012 2nd dnf
BeccaSnowden 29 Jul, 2012 2nd dog Reachy
Reachy
Justin T 15 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 Lead β
billb ?Jun, 2012 Lead
Hidden 12 May, 2012 Lead RP
natalietanzer 12 May, 2012 Lead dog
dan gibson 2 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
with julie carroll
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 Lead RP
Ed Babs 21 Sep, 2010 Lead RP 3rd go. chuffed.
with Mike Hawkins
3rd go. chuffed.
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 31 May, 2010 TR RP
Richard Horn 14 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
Marti999 14 Jul, 2009 Lead β
with Harry Massey
with Harry Massey
schof 11 May, 2009 Lead RP
with rob kennard
with rob kennard
La Mont ??, 2009 -
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Martin Krasnansky 27 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?Aug, 2008 Lead RP
feilx 26 May, 2007 Lead dog
Hidden 28 Apr, 2007 Lead β
bigie bob 30 Sep, 2006 Lead RP
feeko ??, 2006 -
UKB Shark ?Jul, 2002 Lead β
with Chris Sowden
with Chris Sowden
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead O/S
27 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set