Restricted Access
All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
Gradually steepening climbing with an intense sequence midway. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow corner. Climb the shallow corner for about 10m until a line of bolts on the left leads up to a bald wall, just above an overhang. Thin moves up the wall gain easier, but bulging ground that leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 11/May/1996.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| J1_TOV | 8 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: 1st RP. Super route. Feels thin at first until the sequence comes together. Went slightly right over the roof into a left hand marginal pinch nr the QD then a sequence takes you up & right eventually to a good gaston. This feels stylish. It's also possible to go direct through the monos - although it's not as pleasant. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 1st RP. Super route. Feels thin at first until the sequence comes together. Went slightly right over the roof into a left hand marginal pinch nr the QD then a sequence takes you up & right eventually to a good gaston. This feels stylish. It's also possible to go direct through the monos - although it's not as pleasant. |
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| Ben Stokes | 19 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely outstanding. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Absolutely outstanding. |
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| UKB Shark | 30 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Description should refer to climbing to the left of the bolts as where they are placed is misleading - otherwise an excellent route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Description should refer to climbing to the left of the bolts as where they are placed is misleading - otherwise an excellent route |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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Halfway to Heaven
Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)