13m.

Rockfax Description
Pass the brickwall with one peculiar hard move. Watch your leg behind the rope. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 13.1.91 13/Jan/1991

Ticklists: Portland.


ClimberDateStyle
Phil1587 ?/Jul Lead
Owen Johnson 13/Jun Lead dog
Tommy Harris 21/May Lead O/S
Andre Clarke 21/May 2nd dog

Crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt with very powerful move

with Tommy Harris
luke glaister 22/Jan Lead dog

Second route and once again slipped off. Hate the place. Shame. Was really looking forward to it. Pulled back on and finished.

Matti Puckridge 10/Sep/16 Lead dog
robajob 07/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Kt
Hidden 06/Aug/16 TR dog
PeterDawson 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/16 TR O/S
Tall Gecko Hands 17/Jun/16 Lead dog

The section before the brick wall is dry even when it's raining, so it was a good route to do when it was pissing down. The move after the massive undercling is actually quite hard : I had to dyno to the shelf.

Tall Gecko Hands 13/Jun/16 Lead dog

The flake section gave nice climbing. The last bolt is in a brick, which is not very reassuring. You can use a brick as a handhold, I found that to be an interesting curiosity !

MontyH 30/May/16 TR
with Brian
brian watson 30/May/16 Lead RP
NeilHowarth 24/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Abi Marchent
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 05/Sep/15 -
Hidden 03/May/15 Lead β
Hidden 26/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 21/Nov/14 Lead O/S
jamie ward 26/Oct/14 -
with Marcus Harvey
Joe W-O 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
LJC 18/May/14 Lead
with Phill, Little Ben, Tom
bede.west 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Dec/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 17/Nov/13 Lead O/S
alexjz 16/Nov/13 Lead RP

Second go. Good route

pc1983 19/Oct/13 Lead dog

Had to rest on the rope after trying 3 times to clip my draw in the bolt on the brickwork. When I found the under cling I did it easily. This should have been a straight forward flashed climb

Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead dog
pezzerrr 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Rupey 11/Jun/13 Lead RP
lewiz 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Stefan_Morris 28/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Eleanor Coleman
el_monty 21/Nov/12 Lead RP
with Sami
Sami Mandeel 21/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Cruised passed the crux expecting it to be at the top, but didn't find it there either. Felt very straightforward.

Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
London Luke 27/Oct/12 Lead
with David R
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead β
Bristoldave 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Mike, nick, LukeW, douglas
Jobbo 21/Oct/12 Lead RP
Adam Booth 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead dog
kateg2009 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

Very hard first section using undercuts. The bulge was simple if you can trust your left foot smearing.

with Dave Robinson
Jonathan Emett 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt

couldn't find that 'peculiar hard move' through the bricks. Thought it was harder lower down.

with siwan
mikeconway 05/Jun/12 Lead RP
Vespa63 10/May/12 Lead RP
philhaigh 06/May/12 Lead RP
philhaigh 02/May/12 Lead dog
with Murray Freestone, Natalie Haigh
gibsond 08/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Last route of the day and struggled to make the pull over the bulge (did feel very awkward). Will have to come back and have another go when fresher.

Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 24/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Ian
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Thinker01 10/Mar/12 -
Paul Eckton 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with steve read
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead RP
clukins 22/Oct/11 Lead RP
mattc 10/Oct/11 Lead dog

2 rests

Hidden 07/Oct/11 Lead RP
dale1968 07/Oct/11 2nd
with Tom
Julie Carroll 05/Oct/11 Lead RP

2nd go

with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 05/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
mattc 05/Oct/11 Lead dnf
carlgodfrey 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
Linc 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
TRFrost 13/Jun/11 Lead RP
with A. Singleton
Kap 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Quarryboy 27/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the crux move with the slimey pinch, even Max said it felt desperate.

with UCR youth squad
shim ??/2011 2nd dnf

think its the right one, hardly any footholda at first, but great route

La Mont 31/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Angus Edwards
ThomasB ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 24/Sep/10 2nd
Jonathan Emett 24/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Qisheng Xie 20/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
arandall 11/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 30/May/10 Lead O/S
andy jennings 22/May/10 Lead β
with keith
keithpeck 15/May/10 Lead RP

Scared myself a little going to clip the bolt in the bricks.

Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead dnf
El3ctroFuzz 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Elaine Budden
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Luke d 27/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Peterjuliandawson 27/Dec/09 TR RP

all righty

MarkRyder 06/Dec/09 Lead RP
with James P
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/09 Lead dnf
FrostyWebb 01/Jul/09 Lead RP

Found easy this time, still quite a tough buldge though!

with Salmon
BicepAndrews 22/Jun/09 Lead RP
briar4012 06/Jun/09 TR dog
with George
djking1983 26/May/09 Lead
Anthony Allsopp 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Pete Conheeney
matt green(uni) ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
steve taylor 28/Feb/09 Lead rpt
with Matt
Ed Babs 17/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Trevor
trev_f 17/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Tom Thorpe
Steve13 13/Dec/08 Lead dnf
with Adam Billing, Craig Lukins
clukins 13/Dec/08 Lead dnf

Rainy and cold day although rock was dry. Only managed first couple of moves. One to come back to.

sam_cox ?/Dec/08 Lead
vertigo 02/Oct/08 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
FrostyWebb 22/Sep/08 Lead dog

Very hard mid section! Easy finish when book said was tricky, thought that to be strange!!! Loved the fact i climbed a route going over the brick wall. really Fun, will do it again soon.

with Roslyn
Hidden 29/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Anthony Allsopp 20/Jul/08 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Odling
Hidden 07/Jun/08 TR dog
Somerset swede basher 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Wicks
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead RP
lukea ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with dan
Hidden 22/Mar/08 Lead β
Kevster ??/2008 Lead
Hawkscry ??/2008 -
Rik Dawes ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/07 Lead dnf
feilx 01/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett ?/Dec/07 Lead
Hidden 10/Nov/07 2nd dog
Monk 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with RUMC
timo.t 30/Sep/07 Lead dnf

fell of the crux and was too tired to finish(just finished working on Mindmeld)

with Ian
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead
petebale2000 22/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead dog
dannyboy83 ??/2007 Lead O/S
Lloyders ??/2007 TR
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
drysori 11/Nov/06 Lead β

A thuggy crux which suited me.

Hidden 04/Oct/06 TR RP
Hidden 20/Aug/06 Lead dnf
guyblackwood 06/Aug/06 Lead dog

the strange move really is strange

with David, Ricardo, Olga
sgl0jd ?/Aug/06 Lead
with Tom Devas
bigie bob 23/Jul/06 Lead RP
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
mrblue ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with James
Paz 05/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with FM
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Richie Cooke ??/2006 2nd β
with Ali Gordon
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2006 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead RP
Pythonist 06/Feb/05 Lead dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/02 Lead RP
AlexD 15/Sep/01 Lead
duncan 29/May/00 Lead O/S
with David Proughton
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Marilyn
Hidden ??/1998 -
Hidden 06/Aug/95 Lead RP
kristian ??/1995 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/1995 Lead RP

Beauty.

with Rich Howard
Hidden ??/1995 -
clark alston ?/May/94 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -

Approx date

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set