Rockfax Description
A classic pumpy wall of steep cracks and flowstone with the crux at the top. The best 6b+ on Portland. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 20.4.93 20/Apr/1993

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland, Spanish crew 2018.

Martin Bagshaw 09/Jul/17 Lead β

Wanted this climb to just keep going on!

katy_abra 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
AJM 20/Jun/17 Lead β


ferdia 27/May/17 Lead O/S
with Crew
Horton 11/Mar/17 2nd dog

Not fit enough. Took a couple of good whippers trying to lead this and then dogged up on second. I'll be back!

islandlynx 11/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Climbed and sat out high tide on the ledge at the top

TomRiddelsdell 11/Mar/17 2nd dog
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
cem 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

What I came for.

Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
philhaigh 06/Jun/16 Lead rpt
brian watson 05/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Ed Babs
La Mont 03/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Young's Adventure Solutions, Ellis
dbrooks 28/May/16 Lead O/S

waded across in chest deep water in my boxers with bag above my head to get there, totally worth it, as good a 6b+ as I've climbed anywhere

with Stu
duncan 07/May/16 Lead O/S

Soaking wet, though made little difference to difficulty

Hidden 01/Oct/15 Lead O/S
AlexD 01/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Alice
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead
emmafizzle 20/Jun/15 2nd dog

So pumped. Scary moment at the chains. Probably won't return to this route... haha

samparsons 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb and the location adds so much atmosphere.

with Emmie
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead O/S
tash 17/May/15 2nd

Bit damp so didn't fancy leading but wow, what an amazing climb!!! Flowstone, jugs and flakes :-)

with ali k
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
chris_woodsy ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
AJ007 22/Mar/15 Lead RP

Wicked jug fest! Quality line on awesome rock.

Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
BenL ??/2015 Lead O/S
BenNorman 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Top class!

Cailean Harker 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Got to be one of the best 6th grade climbs in the country.

westyb3 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route. best 6b on portland

with Ben Norman, Cailean Harker, Gav Symonds
brices 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

One of the best 6b+ ive done

with Cailean
philhaigh 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
Gem Minihan 17/Jul/14 TR dog
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Phil Haigh
Nick Russell 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Low in the grade but very good! I suspect the underclings never really dry out properly. Is the 'tidal trench' ever above the surface? Spring low this weekend and we were paddling to get across!

RFWilkie 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
louby 05/Oct/13 Lead dog
dmoir 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie
AlexD 26/Aug/13 2nd
Sophie Nunn 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 26/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Steve Gorton
JackMac 07/Jul/13 Lead dog

Got over pumped underneath the roof trying to cling to wet, slimy under clings and failed to make the moves up over the flowstone. Great route though, stand outs as something different.

rubben 26/May/13 Lead β

Gav told us about "the best 6b+ on Portland"...he wasn't wrong! A bit wet in places, but what a route - on par with Duke in Mallorca!!!

with Gav Symonds
Alex More 23/Aug/12 Lead
with Ed babs
Rupey 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S


with alan
dannyboy83 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Wow, can't think of any other grade 6 route in the country I've enjoyed more

Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Pete Scott 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
J5Kay 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Tim M 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Phil T
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Felix
feilx 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Ben Harper
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 09/Apr/11 2nd dog

1 rest

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S


vertigo 17/Jun/10 Lead β

Wow. What more could you ask for on a 6b+?! Jugs all the way.

MarkRyder 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Rich
bigie bob 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Clips already in.

with Will the northern southerner, Chunk
Matt Bennett 08/Sep/09 Lead dog

Dripping wet, got stupidly pumped and fell on final move

ThomasB ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

as good as it gets!

dan gibson 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
w.pettet-smith 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

steap but still low in the grade. jugs aplenty

with josh
Glyn 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JPGR ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Ed Babs 23/May/09 Lead RP
clipskipper 23/May/09 Lead dog

Great route - should have cleaned it.

with Ed Babington
Jus 11/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Steerpike 08/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Bruce
feilx 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with andy elliot
Richard Horn 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/07 -
Hidden 15/Sep/07 -
Darren_R ?/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Tom Beaumont
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
shoulders 14/Jul/06 Lead
with mart
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
pete johnson 18/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Rob
Mark Stevenson 26/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/03 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 21/Mar/03 Lead RP
with dean howard
Rob Kinsey ??/2002 -
with JamesR, joe lenham
The Jazz Butcher ??/2002 -
John Southworth ?/Sep/01 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
Hidden 16/Apr/95 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1995 2nd

Approx date

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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set