Rockfax Description
The blank-looking wall just to the right of The Cutting Edge is possibly 7b+ for shorties, but only 7a+ for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 15.4.90 15/Apr/1990

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, Portland.

Dan Browne 02/Dec/17 TR dnf

Had another flap around, think I worked the top out, very easy to fluff but might go next time

with Kyle
Dan Browne 29/Nov/17 TR dnf

had a flap around on the top rope, nice moves, one day!

with John Rensten
fuzzysheep01 26/Oct/17 Lead dog

Crux took some figuring but relatively steady otherwise.

with Ian Wyatt
Bones [:B 22/Oct/17 TR dog
guy127917 22/Oct/17 TR RP

All together on TR, now just need to lead it!

Bones [:B 15/Oct/17 TR dnf

Got most of the moves this time. Hoping to try again next week getting all the moves and work on sending it clean.

guy127917 15/Oct/17 TR dog

Did all the moves today, just need to string them together on lead now!

with Jen
GeneralFifi 27/Aug/17 Lead dog

Had 4 goes total at the end of the day. The foot did no longer slip at the top and did the top move with relative ease after resting on the rope on me first go. Got very close on the second rp today but it wasn't to be. Next time

with Imi
JKinsella 10/Aug/17 Lead RP

Ian overestimates my technical prowess. (Saw the big tick mark of prev ascentionist, no idea how you were using that! I use the big foot hold stretched out left).

with Eleanor
tclewis 07/Aug/17 Lead RP

First outdoor 7b! Psych!!!!!! Love the big tasty heel hook rockover move and the next bits real good. Rocked over onto good crimps, then went up left hand to a flat side pull, you can get a bad pinch on this too. Then right hand to a decent crimp, left foot up to a really bad foot hold then right foot up to the good crimps. Then getting to the break is easy and the send is yours!!! I left a few tick marks for the really bad foothold so if anyone tries it soon they might still be there, you need to get the placement really spot on to make it work. Great route.

Tall Gecko Hands 23/Jun/17 Lead RP

The first clip is reachable from the big ledge. I'd suggest clipping the second bolt from the left flakey crimp. It is worth dynoing to the slopey ledge because it is *that* good, and clipping the third bolt from there. Using the two-finger pocket above the slopey ledge, it is possible to high-clip the fourth bolt to protect the second hardest move: a weird mantle with left hand on the ledge, right hand in the the pocket and right foot on the ledge. Yeah I can't believe this foot works, but once you let go of your left foothold, it is possible to rise. Jack would use the undercling sloper (yes that is a thing) with his right hand. I prefer to go straight for a higher crimp. Once your feet are higher than the slopey ledge, there is a move to a left side pull that is easy to fail. Then you need a perfect aim to put your right hand into the break. Once this is done, it is unlikely you will fall. You can put two left fingers in a pocket that may slice the top of your middle finger. These two holds are good enough to pull your whole body, get a good right foot, a decent left foot for safety, and this allows to reach the final ledge, which is good but *always* dusty. Forget the fact I said it was 7a for the extremely tall: redpointing this is very hard. There are many hard moves and the last crux requires amazing aiming.

with Jack Evans
mikespooner 18/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Couldn't touch it today, having worked out all the moves last visit, oh dear.

Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead RP
samparsons 03/Jun/17 Lead rpt
GouldHarry 27/May/17 Lead RP
Sam4242 19/May/17 Lead RP

First 7B! It finally went first go of the day. Relived and ecstatic.

Hidden ?/May/17 -
Bones [:B 21/Apr/17 TR dnf
guy127917 21/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Got all the way up, feels plausible but hard. Not sure about all the beta yet.

with Jen
suddy 04/Mar/17 Lead dnf
Carl 04/Mar/17 Lead dnf

'Ard! Found the rockover move trickier than before, still can't figure out what to do at the top.

with Sud
Carl 30/Oct/16 TR dnf

Couldn't quite get the top move! Everything up to that felt pretty good though, potential future lead...?

mikespooner 30/Oct/16 Lead dog

Getting very close to this, fluffed the redpoint twice, I'll be back!

Sam4242 26/Oct/16 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead dog
td72 02/Jul/16 Lead RP
Kenhard 26/Jun/16 TR dnf

Working the moves, hard crimps on no skin :( Climbed better pulling on the rope!

evans859 17/Jun/16 Lead RP

Great bouldery climb with a cool mantle/rockover on a shelf using a slopy undercling and a desperate reach for the break at the top. We'll call it 7a+ due to the height advantage but still ecstatic with my first 7a+/b!! :D

Tall Gecko Hands 17/Jun/16 Lead dog

Give me one day and I'll get it ! XD Indeed easier (7a+) for the tall and probably even a bit easier for the extremely tall (7a). The second nicest pocket of the crack at the top has a sharp shell that will casually cut your middle finger every time you use it.... Bring tape !

MontyH 30/May/16 TR dnf
with Brian
brian watson 30/May/16 TR dog

I think it might go with some work

Dean177 01/May/16 Lead RP

2nd go

with Ana_B
philhaigh 27/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd try. Chose a bad foot position for the last move first go.. paid the price in rope burn!

with Steve Hau
John_Beesley 06/Apr/16 Lead dog

So close to finishing this bad-boy. Too short for techy beta so having to dyno!

with mop449
mop449 06/Apr/16 Lead RP

John and Rosie managed to give me enough advice to do this. So brutally technical. Very satisfied. I agree with easier for the tall.

innes 07/Mar/16 Lead RP
with Ruth
roryferris 05/Mar/16 2nd
with Sam4242
Sam4242 05/Mar/16 Lead dog
with Dan Richards, Rory Ferris
Doug miller 18/Feb/16 Lead dnf
s.thursz 18/Feb/16 2nd
samparsons 13/Dec/15 Lead G/U

Awesome climb thanks to John for the beta.

Albachoss 12/Dec/15 Lead RP

2nd go

with Jake
tommccluskey 08/Dec/15 Lead RP

Retroflash after falling right at the top last session

Mark Stevenson 08/Dec/15 Lead dog
jacobjlloyd 05/Dec/15 Lead RP
Josh Hadley 25/Oct/15 Lead dog
mikespooner 06/Jun/15 TR dog
GeneralFifi ?/Jun/15 Lead dog

My project for this years Portland trip. I have climbed it multiple times with one fall on the last move every time. Probably need to be just a bit more powerful as the last moves are very stretched out and strong on bad feet. Frustratingly, I have actually gone past the last long move on one of the redpoints and had a foot slip when going for the final jug.. Next year

with James Morgan, Freddie Erskine, John Beesley
Josh Lewis 25/May/15 Lead dnf

Good climbing just too spanned out at the top to do the move to finish - frustrating!

afrosam 24/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 12/May/15 TR dog
chris sm 02/May/15 TR dnf
with Gareth Pratt
DorsetGareth 02/May/15 Lead RP
with Chris S
Swamp murphy ?/May/15 Lead
with Beth, Yosh89
Elizabeth Noyes ?/May/15 2nd
Spillers 11/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Hard move off middle ledge. Hard finish!

with Ant Williams
RadekNowak 04/Apr/15 Lead RP

gone within 1 day. felt similar to The Mouth Waters in difficulty which is 7a+, but Dumbfounded had one reachy move (or two) which possibly made it 7b but soft.

FreddieSmith 04/Apr/15 Lead RP
EdGeall 04/Apr/15 2nd
dynoseb ??/2015 Lead RP

First 7b! Really fun moves, crux for me was at the top with a lefthand pinch to 2 finger pocket.

Hidden 24/Dec/14 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Dec/14 Lead dog
JHC 25/Oct/14 TR dog

Suspiciously easy for a 7b and I'm 5'7"... Got all the moves and linked except for the very end - its almost there. Has a really cool huge rockover at half height.

Patrick Hill 11/Sep/14 Lead RP
oliver.ghill91 11/Sep/14 Lead RP
Trippinjester 30/Aug/14 TR dnf
with johnl, Adam Perrett, J.P
Garrouli 23/Aug/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint. Short lived and pretty reachy - not a great route.

ChrisBrooke 17/Aug/14 Lead dog

Refined the top sequence again. Didn't have enough in the tank for the successful RP. Next time. Honest.

with Keeley Scholes
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead dog
nacnud 26/Jul/14 Lead
with Laura Grifith
LucasHarazin 07/Jun/14 Lead RP
brices 26/May/14 Lead dog

To the last move and havent got a 6ft + span sacked it off

with Llinos, Gav
Alex Winter 10/May/14 Lead RP

A couple of tasty moves. Pinged off at the top a couple of times. Got it third go.

with Ben's stag
ChrisBrooke 04/May/14 Lead dog

Worked out the top sequence now. Will link it next time.

with Cat Freeman
Caspian Johnson 03/May/14 Lead dog

Finish is nails

with Tor
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20/Mar/14 Lead RP

Second go today. Took some effort to work out the sequence.

with Steph
Coops_13 09/Mar/14 TR dnf

Almost got the rockover, though I think I was doing it wrong...

UnkArl 23/Feb/14 Lead dog
sarpedon 02/Feb/14 TR dnf
RKirke 02/Feb/14 TR dog
with Sarp
Hidden 30/Jan/14 Lead RP
Marti999 30/Jan/14 Lead RP

always thought i couldn't make the reach at top, but it appears i can.

BenL 11/Jan/14 Lead RP
with Angus Webb
Ed Babs 29/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Aaron, Dr Steve
Hidden 17/Nov/13 Lead dog
marcduhig 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Wayne, Bob
waynem1985 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Marc
maybe_si 15/Jun/13 Lead RP
Justin T 15/Jun/13 Lead RP

Onsight to top move, 1st rp. Great climbing!

with Nick S
richardashe 02/Jun/13 2nd
ASchwirtz 02/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Last move (fall extension) from shite hold -> failed to reach break.

Stefan_Morris 28/Mar/13 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead RP
Nick205228 ??/2013 Lead RP
nimajneb ??/2013 Lead RP
DorsetGareth 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

Should have got this. Couldn't link the last move. And again 10 Nov 2013!

with Chris S
JCAshman 02/Nov/12 Lead RP
danJBA 27/Oct/12 Lead dog
Adam Booth 20/Oct/12 TR O/S

Felt pretty easy for 7b, maybe my style tho? Lots of small holds but plenty that are big enough to get a bit back. Helps if you use your feet! Should have lead it really.

David Clover 15/Oct/12 Lead RP

rewachy hard pulls :) tendon popping fun!!!

ThomasB ?/Oct/12 Lead RP

first 7b!

lewiz 29/Sep/12 TR dnf
Sami Mandeel 16/Sep/12 TR dog

Got the last move in isolation but couldn't figure out how to do the mantle/rock-over half way.

with Rob
3 Names 27/Aug/12 TR dnf
Hidden 08/Jul/12 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 05/Jul/12 TR dnf

one good right-foot smear and I'll have the bugger...

with Paul
Kevster 30/Jun/12 Lead RP
RFWilkie 24/Jun/12 TR dnf

Mark had mistaken this for 'Too many cooks', so after he dog-clipped it, thought I'd have a quick top rope. Guidebook is right, top moves are absoloutely desperate if you are short.

rustaldo 19/Jun/12 TR dnf

tried again on TR today after the cutting edge. still cant figure the last move. do a high move to a side pull off two crimps, no idea beyond that. only smears for the feet and on such poor holds cant make the final move to the break.

with Alex
lewiz 19/May/12 Lead RP
3 Names 17/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Ed morris 05/Feb/12 Lead rpt

Starting to feel easy now. climbed it too much.

with Theo
rustaldo 22/Jan/12 TR dog

tried this on TR after the arete, really good moves. crux right at the top, really stiff pulls on some sidepulls and crimps. awesome mantle move in the middle

with Si
Kevster 08/Jan/12 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Toby Dunn 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

nice moves but not many of them, bit like a grit V4

with Jon Emmet
dan gibson 30/Oct/11 Lead RP

a bit tricky on a wet day

with michael porter
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead RP
catt 26/Oct/11 Lead RP

2nd go and beta assist to Nick. Fun moves!

Hidden 17/Oct/11 -
ChrisBrooke 09/Oct/11 Lead dog
with John Inkpen
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Honrei 25/Sep/11 Lead RP

First redpoint for a while. Quality route with a desperate last move.

Chris_barr 11/Sep/11 Lead RP

1st RP

with Theo, Bob
Haydn Jones 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Quite possibly everybody in the cuttings heard me scream for joy when i grabbed the final hold.

UnkArl 16/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Good climb, tried it ground-up and made good progress but didn't fancy the move onto the ledge without practice first. Would like to go back and work this route properly.

with Stefano
Jonathan Emett 31/Jul/11 TR dnf

another half-hearted attempt.

with daniel
JPGR 23/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 17/Jul/11 TR dog
JPGR 25/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/11 TR dnf
Jonathan Emett 10/May/11 TR dnf

I was left puzzled by the move off the ledge in the middle.

with rupe
Daniel Wicks 29/Mar/11 TR RP
with Radek
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead dog
wi11 ?/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Marcus, Nat
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21/Jan/11 Lead dog
lewisrichardson1 ??/2011 TR RP

Very hard crux looong pull through of 2 fingers

Hawkscry ??/2011 -
pezzerrr ?/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Aug/10 TR dog
Ed morris 08/Aug/10 Lead RP

First 7b. The moves are fine until the last bit where I had to use a crappy flowstone smear. great route.

with ronan
i_a_coops 31/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Jacob
dominic lee 16/May/10 Lead RP
with andy elliot
natalietanzer 04/Apr/10 TR dog
with Ed
JPGR 04/Apr/10 Lead RP
jacobjacob 14/Feb/10 Lead β

flashed it!

mattcyp88 14/Feb/10 Lead RP
with Jacob Cook
Hidden 14/Feb/10 2nd dnf
El3ctroFuzz 31/Jan/10 Lead RP

clean 3rd go. 3 boulder problems in between good holds for clipping.

with Elaine Budden
Chubbard 30/Jan/10 Lead dog

So close!

with AJM
Chubbard 24/Jan/10 Lead dog

Really good route. Much better than it looks.

Anthony Allsopp ?/Nov/09 Lead dog
with Nicole Moriarty
Matt Bennett 29/Aug/09 TR dog

struggled to find a viable sequence

Ben Harper 21/Feb/09 Lead RP
dmoir 15/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Ben Harper
feilx 11/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Tiff
La benya ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Apr/08 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Apr/08 Lead RP
sparkass ?/Mar/08 Lead RP

Soft touch, deserves 7b for top move

with Ben Fordesman
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Lloyders 02/Feb/08 Lead dnf
dmoir 12/Jan/08 TR RP
dannyboy83 12/Jan/08 Lead RP
timo.t 30/Sep/07 Lead dnf

very nice, great moves, started raining after a 15mins of work, bit on the soft side I'd say for the grade.

with Ian
Somerset swede basher 20/Sep/07 Lead RP

Linked all the moves on a TR yesterday, got it 3rd ground up attempt today.

with Sarah Stirling
Castleclimber 02/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Justin
Martin Krasnansky 07/Aug/07 Lead RP
Joe Marsh 11/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Nathan
Hidden 11/Jun/07 2nd dog
feeko 06/May/07 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Apr/07 TR dnf
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
bigie bob 23/Jul/06 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
John Southworth ?/Sep/00 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dnf

So close so many times! I'm only 5'9" though.

with John Pullin
Hidden 28/Jul/99 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1999 -
Jon Read ?/Jul/98 Lead β
with Tanya Holdsworth
goi.ashmore 13/Mar/95 Lead RP
with Simon Coles, Eugene Travers-Jones
Spottykidfromstourbridge ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
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High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set