Rockfax Description
An impressive route that needs crisp conditions and features some unusual moves to gain and climb the shallow groove. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 3.11.90 03/Nov/1990

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Portland.

samparsons 19/Nov Lead RP

16 Oct 2016 first go. And so the learning begins, project for the winter I think. Second go 4th November 2017 18th November 2017 full session Today got it first try on someone else's draws.

Jim pratt 28/Oct Lead RP

Stunning route with amazing moves.

Wood for Trees 22/Oct Lead dog

one tie in, no idea on the crux, have since watched a video, I was doing it all wrong trying to move a fridge far too early

with Flo Barton
brices 15/Oct Lead RP

2nd go, brilliant route, powerful upper sequence for a vertical wall, 1st go skipped a clip and took a mega lob from the top of the second groove great experience

with Remus
Hidden 15/Oct Lead RP
tommccluskey 04/Sep Lead RP

Second go

with Jess
James Oakes 30/Aug Lead RP


ArrMcC 06/Aug Lead dog

Had little play at the end of the day in shocking greasy conditions. Had some whack beta for the start of the crux but with some refinement it should go next session.

with Elliot
Hidden ?/Aug Lead
iarock17 18/Jun Lead RP

Heel for the crux, makes a big difference!

Edward Kwong 17/Jun Lead RP

Really tricky crux, great to tick it off after feeling impossible on previous session.

afrosam 21/May Lead RP
with TomJ
jakecollins 07/Apr Lead RP
ricci.andrea86 04/Mar Lead RP

nth try of the day. Finally..

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 06/Jan Lead rpt
with Martyn Eales
flash13 ??/2017 TR dog

All the moves climbed on first top rope try, will need to be a bit fitter to link this all. Good beta helped!

Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
ricci.andrea86 04/Dec/16 Lead dog

too cold. knee bar beta kinda work.

Granitemuncher 20/Nov/16 Lead RP

Placed the draws and had to give it 2 goes after that. A knee bar on the groove is the way forward IMO. Did not even use the brown tufa (pinch), better leave that for the tall! a bit overrated in my opinion. Want Out is more fun!

with Martyn
Alex N-R 19/Nov/16 Lead RP

Great route, in between dodging showers, thought I'd get rained off!

_m.cox_ 06/Nov/16 Lead β

Happy to flash this, real good movements!

dom94 06/Nov/16 Lead RP

Awesome! 3rd RP

with Eloise
chris_woodsy 25/Sep/16 Lead RP

4th RP over 2.1 days. Ran out of strength on day 1. Went really smoothly 1st RP of day 2. Great moves.

with Widdaz
afrosam 23/Sep/16 Lead dog
Matt Cooke 28/Aug/16 Lead β
Hidden 26/Aug/16 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Aug/16 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Aug/16 TR dog
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jul/16 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 18/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Jul/16 TR dog
td72 10/Jul/16 Lead dog

great climb, got all the moves hopefully link them next weekend.

with Katie
Linc 09/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
Hidden 08/Jul/16 TR dog
Hidden 04/Jul/16 Lead dog
Ben J 04/Jul/16 Lead dnf

The Ming was on it, not great conditions. Refused beta, learned my lesson! Pretty sure it'll go next attempt...

Hidden 03/Jul/16 TR dog
Hidden 24/Jun/16 TR dog
Anna Hammond 12/Jun/16 2nd dog

Phil lead this and I seconded it. Lovely climb! Easy to the overhang, crux takes some thinking about and then fairly easy way to the finish. Some lovely flowstone integrated into the route too

with Phil Whitehead
GrahamGiles 28/May/16 Lead RP

2nd try after slowly unlocking the several pieces of the puzzle on the first asent. Brilliant moves, certainly makes you work for the tick.

with Renna Clifford, Aaron Clifford, Joanne
Aaron.Clifford 28/May/16 Lead RP

Ticked it two years later, much stronger now, felt a lot less desperate!

Spillers 27/May/16 Lead dog

Got a new sequence for crux after three tries, route done in two sections. To link

with Zoe Silsbury
Hidden 22/May/16 TR dog
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead dog
afrosam 14/May/16 Lead dog

Next time...

with TomJ
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
JKinsella 24/Apr/16 Lead RP

Officially the hardest route on my unfinished business list. Very happy to do it, even if it is quite soft with decent beta.

with Shane Willis, Eve
Shane Willis 24/Apr/16 Lead RP

First 7c sent. Second go, first redpoint, felt awesome!

Nick Russell 18/Apr/16 Lead dog

4 more tie-ins. Finally figured out which bolts to clip and when, and sorted the move over the roof (back 3 for the left hand). Faffed too much on the RP attempt, and psyche wasn't high for another go.

Nick Russell 17/Apr/16 Lead dog

Another 3 times up. Still stopped by the first move over the roof.

Ramon Marin 16/Apr/16 Lead RP

A bit of a battle of anti-style but got there eventually. Amazing moves

Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/16 TR dog
DanielleMarie 10/Apr/16 TR dnf
Nick Russell 09/Apr/16 Lead dog

3 times up. I think I put together a plausible sequence on the second. I didn't put together a plausible redpoint attempt on the third.

Alex Winter 09/Apr/16 Lead dog

Got some weird fridge-hugging moves to work eventually, but later saw people doing it using the cross-through sequence. Need to give that a go next time, might be easier for the long of limb.

with Nick
ThomasB 09/Apr/16 Lead RP

very good!

mop449 06/Apr/16 Lead dnf
John_Beesley 06/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Managed to get through "the crux" to be faced with a blank headwall! No idea how I'm gonna get up it, but I will bloody well try!

with mop449
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

Great moves, a bit too bouldery for me right now though.

with ollie_e
ollie_e 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

Felt desperately hard. Probably leave this alone for a few years.

with Caspian
Kris suriyo 21/Feb/16 Lead RP
with Rob
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with Jerome
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Feb/16 Lead rpt

Really good condition today. Awesome sequence.

with Xav
Beefy Bert 16/Feb/16 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Feb/16 Lead dog
ThomasB 16/Jan/16 Lead dog
Ed Babs 10/Jan/16 Lead RP

The greatest siege since the Trojan war. Also (fortunately) a really enjoyable climb.

brian watson 31/Oct/15 2nd dnf
with Ed Babs
DrGav 01/Sep/15 Lead dog

Post crux is pretty wired albeit scary! Crux is nails.

DrGav 30/Aug/15 Lead dog

Just about managed the crux in two after switching hands at the start. Very extended to hit the crimp

with Wendy
philhaigh 29/Jun/15 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
philhaigh 25/Jun/15 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead RP
lewiz 13/Jun/15 Lead RP


with Beata
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead dog
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead RP
afrosam 24/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead dog
brian watson 04/May/15 TR dog
with Ed Babs
Hidden 26/Apr/15 TR dog
lewiz 19/Apr/15 Lead dog

2015/04/19: Tired. Limited success LF low, LH slap to arete then try to get RH out for fridge hug. Alt: RF HH and high LH reach to crimp feels impossible. Try: Get RF high using lower right arete and good LH crimp.

Spillers 11/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Worked, all moves done but fell moving off undercut on top groove on first attempt. Very sunny, holds got very soapy. For another day

with Ant Williams
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead RP
innes 06/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Ruth
lewiz 05/Apr/15 Lead dog

4/5/15: Unable to figure out how to get established. Cheating to left foot on the big jug, right hand in the groove and left around the arete I climbed (relatively) easily to the top both attempts. 5/5/15: Watched a video of a guy using a right heel. Some progress but can't reach good crimp. Also tried another sequence with a left foot out. Both have promise but ripped a flapper on first try of the day. Account officially open.

Hidden 04/Apr/15 Lead
nimajneb ?/Apr/15 Lead RP

First 7c I tried! 2nd go .

JM 31/Jan/15 Lead RP

Really nice feature. Annoyingly blew the onsight by z-clipping mid crux!

with Anna Reiners
Hidden 17/Jan/15 Lead RP
Marti999 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
with Debbie
Graham Westbrook 04/Nov/14 Lead RP

5th go. Should have gone quicker but I was using a bad sequence! Went OK in the end.

thomasmouse 05/Oct/14 Lead RP
with Camilla Barnard, Richard Hughes
Qisheng Xie 30/Aug/14 Lead RP

Note to self: easy starting movements leading up to first roof, heel hook to get over the edge followed by a double pinch, tip toe to RH pinch then ballet dance across the blank sheet.

Aaron.Clifford 17/Aug/14 Lead dog

Awesome moves, really long crux. One to come back for.

rjf106 16/Aug/14 Lead RP

Had to skip the clip along the arête.

with D. Angland
BenL 02/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Ryu
mop449 16/Jun/14 Lead dnf
3 Names 30/May/14 Lead dog
brices 26/May/14 Lead dog

Tried to OS got into second groove and spooned it by not seeing a hold gutted. Then to greasy and hot on second go.

with Llinos, Gav
ollie_e 25/May/14 Lead dog

Did it from the jug before the crux to the top clean, but for reason couldn't link it from the bottom. One to come back for.

LJC 18/May/14 TR dog

Got all the moves, need to link them next time.

with Phill, Little Ben, Tom
chrisscutt 11/May/14 Lead RP

Nice climbing, second red point

with chris, oly
sarpedon 09/May/14 TR dnf

Nice to know what impossible feels like.

DJ Nelson 15/Mar/14 Lead RP


with Micaela Langellotti
UnkArl 23/Feb/14 Lead dog
James_L88 21/Feb/14 TR dnf
lewiz 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf

2014 project. No clue.

with Kamil Winczek
Ged Desforges ??/2014 Lead RP

Excellent route. Short but sustained

Ged Desforges ??/2014 -

Superb climb, one of the best 7c's I've done in Britain I think. Long sustained crux section. Probably needs pretty good conditions, but not essential. Fairly soft but would be tough to onsight

Adam Booth 29/Dec/13 Lead RP
anguskille 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

tricky clip! a cold day but good send

Ed Booth 28/Dec/13 Lead RP

2nd go

jonleighton 01/Dec/13 Lead RP
natalietanzer 25/Aug/13 Lead RP

3rd go

with marcus
Kevster 10/May/13 Lead dog
3 Names 08/Dec/12 TR dog
Hidden 01/Dec/12 TR dog
Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR dog
Tangerine_Kingdom 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Witold
quiffhanger 05/Aug/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Would've been a hard on-sight so pretty pleased to get it so quick. Avoided much fridge hugging & skipped the hard clip for added excitement.

with Joe
PeterDawson 23/Jul/12 Lead RP
Adam Booth 23/Jun/12 TR RP

Account open!

Kevster 19/May/12 Lead dog
Kevster 15/May/12 Lead dog
Kevster 13/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 13/May/12 TR dog
Hidden 11/Apr/12 Lead RP
Perryman 25/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 TR dog
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10/Jan/12 Lead RP

First 7c well phyched. Did it at the end of the day as it was getting dark. Climbed first go today using a slightly different sequence. Amazing!

with Steph
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Jan/12 Lead dog
tom russell ??/2012 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Dec/11 Lead RP
Marti999 12/Dec/11 Lead dog
Tophe 10/Dec/11 Lead RP

Such a fun sequence through the crux! If you've not tryed this climb, go do it, it's amazing!

tom106 02/Dec/11 Lead RP

2nd redpoint

with dan
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20/Nov/11 Lead dog

Did it with one rest. Next time maybe?

Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
dale1968 14/Oct/11 -
with Tom
Toby Dunn 08/Oct/11 Lead

2nd go; hard to OS. Much more memorable, interesting climbing than many Portland routes.

with Jon Emmet
Hidden 07/Oct/11 Lead dog
Linc 02/Aug/11 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 02/Aug/11 Lead dog
Linc 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/11 TR dog
Dandan82 17/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Linc 17/Jul/11 Lead dog
Linc 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Linc 29/May/11 Lead dog
Dandan82 07/May/11 Lead RP

crisp conditions my ar$e, i nearly sent this in 25deg sun and finally ticked it while it's grimy and damp! Amazing route though, a real must-do

Linc ?/May/11 Lead dog
Harry Thorpe 14/Mar/11 TR dnf

Trying James's project, it's pretty hard!

Tom Heslam ?/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Rosea
jgustafsson 22/Jan/11 Lead RP

7c, oh yeah baby!!! 2nd redpoint this trip, after a session or so previously... not that I'm qualified to say, but I can't imagine that this is particularly hard for the grade...

with Ivan
Hawkscry ??/2011 Lead RP
La benya 26/Nov/10 Lead RP

Oh yes! Really cool route that everyone does wrong. 4rp and it went... I have spent more time doing want out!! unedited video for anyone wanting beta -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWyo1Mxw8DI

sam_cox 26/Nov/10 Lead RP

Great route, eliminated some moves on the crux. Felt solid on the Red point. Baking hot in the middle of winter!

Hidden 10/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 09/Oct/10 TR dog
i_a_coops 07/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Jacob
JPGR 29/Aug/10 Lead
jacobjacob 31/Jul/10 Lead RP

skipped the clip on the arete, epic runout, amazing climb.

Luke Dawson 30/May/10 Lead RP


trev_f 03/May/10 Lead RP
with Marti, Andy
marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead RP

awesome, unfinished business from many years ago

with huw
marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead dog
with huw
Luke d 04/Apr/10 Lead dog

Perfect route and quite sustained i thought will do when i get back from spain

billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Lee
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead dog
blaza1 ?/Mar/10 -

In a session

with andy schofield
mattcyp88 27/Feb/10 Lead dog

Dogged to the top twice and did all the moves okish(surprisingly).

with Jacob Cook
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead dog
hippo99 19/Feb/10 Lead RP
with rache
schof 30/Jan/10 Lead RP
with arron schofield
pezzerrr 24/Jan/10 Lead RP
Marti999 03/Jan/10 Lead dog
Marti999 27/Dec/09 Lead dog
dan gibson 06/May/09 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Seb1uk 19/Apr/09 Lead dog

awesome climb, 2nd last bolt was scary :)

with Scott Soithongsuk
Hidden 25/Mar/09 Lead RP
angusaussie 14/Feb/09 Lead RP
with John Hogan
feilx 10/Jan/09 Lead dog
with Tiff
feilx 09/Nov/08 Lead dog
with Crazy Tom
Richard Horn 10/Sep/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 06/May/08 Lead β

half flash ,half 0S. Have got beta only for first move of crux.

JPGR 04/Mar/08 Lead dog
with Daniel
Jake Shaw ??/2008 Lead dog
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/07 Lead RP
with Sion
Hidden 28/Jan/07 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jan/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
bigie bob 19/Aug/06 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
Paz 12/Nov/05 Lead dog
with FM
Paz 27/Oct/05 Lead dog

>~ 6 attempts now.

with FM, AS
Adam Lincoln ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/2000 Lead RP

Worked it one evening, left my draws in on the crux. Come back the following afternoon to find my draws had been nicked.

Hidden 16/Aug/96 Lead RP
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