Rockfax Description
The overhang-dotted corner is an excellent route with both technical and strenuous climbing. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 24.3.91 24/Mar/1991

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Portland.

Jim pratt 29/Oct/17 Lead RP

Hard for the grade but awesome nonetheless

James Oakes 30/Aug/17 Lead RP

Technical. Would be tough to onsight.

JKinsella 18/Jul/17 Lead RP

One of the best routes I've done, really interesting climbing! Had prev session trying nails beta through first little roof, thought felt 7b+. Today found piss easy way which took all the power out and went next go. Felt middle of 7b that way.

with Steve C
Hidden 15/Jul/17 Lead dog
slowmotion 29/Jun/17 2nd dog
with Katie P
RagingPuffin 27/May/17 TR dnf
mishabruml 18/May/17 Lead dog

put the draws in from New Saladin and had a wee brush and a tick of the holds with a flash attempt in mind. got to the little left traverse and did some heinous moves up under the little overlap, which i thought was the crux, so i got a bit excited thinking the route was bagged, tried the next sequence (crux!) and got spat off. rookie!

brian watson 23/Apr/17 Lead RP

And finally it goes

with Mike Hawkins
Matt Cooke 17/Apr/17 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Apr/17 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Apr/17 Lead RP
brian watson 01/Apr/17 Lead dog

What a fool! 4 attempts with rubbish beta, new beta will work. Another time . . . . . .

with Ellis Bird, Mike Hawkins, Louis Boscence
brian watson 18/Mar/17 Lead dog

Beta refined, might go next time.

with Mike Hawkins
brian watson 04/Mar/17 Lead dog

Done all the moves just got to link it all together

with Mike Hawkins
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Linc 11/Dec/16 Lead dnf
with Kay
ricci.andrea86 04/Dec/16 Lead RP
will black 03/Dec/16 Lead RP

Bit of a battle but got it in the end. Probably my longest redpoint, seemed to flap around at the top..

Alex N-R 03/Dec/16 Lead RP

Very close to the flash. Cool route

Hidden 20/Nov/16 Lead dog
jakecollins 19/Nov/16 Lead RP
tonevert 29/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Paloma
Trisha Murphy 16/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Ash
Hidden 08/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead RP
quiffhanger 18/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Brill climb but not a great choice for a warm-up!

with Rachel
samparsons 17/Sep/16 TR dog
Granitemuncher 10/Sep/16 Lead RP

Both feet on the tight wall and left palm on the vertical crack will make the crux quite soft. sustained but no more than 7b IMO. Can go on-sight if you find the hidden undercut hold under the last roof.

with Matt Johnson
tonevert 06/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Paloma
Adam Willison 13/Jul/16 Lead

3rd go. Amazing route

td72 10/Jul/16 Lead RP

great climb, worked it a few times the day before then got it on the first tie in today. hard in the grade!

MichaelGallimore 30/Apr/16 Lead dnf

3rd day on, got past the first groove but struggled on the headwall above. Wow how strenuous.

with Flavio
ThomasB 30/Apr/16 Lead RP


Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead dog
ASchwirtz 19/Mar/16 Lead dnf

stopped by the roof.

i_a_coops 13/Mar/16 Lead RP
blaza1 27/Feb/16 Lead dnf


tobydunford 23/Jan/16 Lead dnf
with Kirsty Kerr
Albachoss 16/Jan/16 Lead RP
with Ben
chris_woodsy 10/Jan/16 Lead RP

Finally! Took a bit of work. Brilliant climb.

with Widdaz
nimajneb 19/Dec/15 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 19/Dec/15 Lead RP

Yes! I never have to try it again! Not as good as I had been led to believe. And it took me more goes than any other route, ever.

Albachoss 12/Dec/15 Lead dnf

Sustained and technical, great route and making progress

with Jake, Andrea
BenL 28/Nov/15 Lead RP
with Andrea, Alex Banks
Mark Stevenson ?/Nov/15 Lead RP
with OUMC Members
burto 29/Aug/15 Lead dnf
with ferdia
ferdia 29/Aug/15 Lead dnf
with Hertha Taverner-Wood, Ian Burton
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
Tom Seccombe 11/Jul/15 Lead dnf
dswansonlow 08/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Alex Banks
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead dnf
philhaigh 07/Jul/15 2nd dog

Want out work out

with Hely
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead RP
Ed Babs 30/Apr/15 Lead RP

Really good. Precision required.

with Marcus O
innes 05/Apr/15 Lead RP

Techy! Great moves. Worth 7b+ IMO.

with Ruth
RFWilkie 04/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S
oliver.ghill91 11/Sep/14 Lead dog
Graham Westbrook 10/Sep/14 Lead RP

3rd go. Great sequence! Hard 7b

Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 30/Aug/14 TR dog

Ahh heck. Couldn't touch it. Not for me!

with Jonny
Garrouli 23/Aug/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint

with Ioanna
Hidden 24/Jun/14 2nd dnf
lewiz 24/May/14 Lead dog
3 Names 23/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Mar/14 TR dnf
Coops_13 08/Mar/14 Lead dog

Hard and a bit wet

Luxulyan 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf
with Tim
tim.fairhall 16/Feb/14 Lead dog
with Richard
Ed Booth 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Hard to on sight on this wall!!

anguskille 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

2nd go, great moves

Luxulyan 07/Dec/13 Lead dnf
with Tom Murrell
lewiz 15/Sep/13 Lead dog

Only one rest. Nice I can remember most of the moves :-)

Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead β
PeterDawson 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
lewiz 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

Chapter closed: hardest line to date. Had all the moves dialled but was still surprised when I pulled over the top. Really great sequence and moves, very enjoyable, hard climbing. ***

with Endre Joachim Mossige
lewiz 25/Jul/13 Lead dog

Two falls trying to do the roof. Big progress. It should go soon.

with Endre Joachim Mossige
jonleighton 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

Fantastic route, unfortunately I powered out before I could make the redpoint. One for next time...

lewiz 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
thomasmouse 22/Jun/13 Lead dog
with natalietanzer
natalietanzer 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd go,great bridgy route

with tom, will
wi11 22/Jun/13 Lead dog
lewiz 15/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got my sequence through the crux perfect first try (warm-up) but couldn't repeat it. Wasn't in the game mentally.

with Tom Stone
Wayne.Gaudin 03/Jun/13 TR dog

Clipped sticked up and tried it twice. Hard move to side pull then hard move to left pinch. Done on a tight rope. Top was ok, it seems you can go left, right of straight over. It is a great route. Take a while to go.

with Janice
billb ?/Jun/13 Lead

Very sequency and hard but main difficulties are short lived. Great route

lewiz 12/May/13 Lead dog

Think I've found my 2013 project :)

tonevert 10/May/13 Lead dog


duncan 10/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Worked to 5th bolt / penultimate overhang.

Adam Booth 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt

3rd RP over 2 days. Awesome climb but felt pretty tough for 7b. So many different ways of doing every section! Eventually picked the right combination!

Adam Booth 19/Oct/12 Lead dog

1 go on TR trying to figure out the moves then 1 RP, then started raining :-( Account open...

Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Marcus 16/Sep/12 Lead
Ali 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
3 Names 06/Sep/12 TR dog

quick look at the moves

with Nick
Tangerine_Kingdom 26/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Witold
Hidden 22/Jul/12 TR dnf
rustaldo 20/Jul/12 Lead dog

tough route, not too strenuous but lots of technical bridging. had a guidebook fail and took the top roof direct which was hard and very blind. definite kudos to any OS accents, v hard to read first go. looking forward to trying it again.

Hidden 08/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 16/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Jun/12 TR RP
givemetea 26/May/12 TR dog

Tried 5 times over sat/sun and made progress each time. Have a continuous sequence now.

Hidden 12/May/12 Lead RP
brices 07/Apr/12 Lead dog
Tom Heslam 07/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Si Brice
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Dan_Carroll 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Mateusz
Wil Treasure ?/Nov/11 Lead dog
Kevster 29/Oct/11 Lead RP
dale1968 21/Oct/11 TR dnf
with Tom
willbatho 21/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 08/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with toby
Toby Dunn 08/Oct/11 Lead
with Jon Emmet
quiffhanger 21/Aug/11 Lead RP

2nd go. Really good. Not that sutained imo but the crux section is bouldery with awesome 3D moves. Warm the hips up first.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Chris Rooke, Harry Massey
Mike_Hayes 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Kevster 21/May/11 Lead dog

Still eludes me.

Hidden 06/Feb/11 TR dnf
jgustafsson ?/Sep/10 Lead RP

Much trouble linking the crux; went away for 4 month and came back and did first go, having put draws in on abseil. getting stronger? I adore this route.

with Pino
Dandan82 18/Jul/10 Lead RP

Great route, with some cool moves, leave some energy to drag yourself over the roof at the top though!

with Chris
Kevster 18/Jul/10 Lead

Not clean.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Jul/10 TR dog
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead RP
La benya 28/May/10 Lead dog


marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead RP
with huw
Linc ?/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
jacobjacob 14/Feb/10 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Jan/10 TR dnf
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith 23/Jan/10 Lead dnf

bloody hell. used up my pultry power reserves working out what the flippin heck to do on the crux. suffice to say, i found it quite hard.

with steve
pezzerrr 17/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/09 Lead dog
Marti999 05/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead RP
hippo99 04/Jan/09 Lead RP
with sam cox, louis bosence
sam_cox ?/Jan/09 Lead
rubben ??/2009 Lead dnf

Could not do?!?

Richard Horn 09/Mar/08 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead RP
John Southworth ??/2008 -
feilx 01/Dec/07 Lead RP
dannyboy83 25/Nov/07 Lead RP
Tony Little 22/Oct/07 Lead RP
with Claire
Martin Krasnansky 06/Aug/07 Lead RP
lukea ?/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Olaf
lukea 14/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Olaf
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
bigie bob 21/Aug/06 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Jon Read ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S

I certainly wanted out at the top of that groove. Bleg: too many moves!

with Tanya Holdsworth
Hidden 20/Jul/96 Lead RP
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Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set