Rockfax Description
An impressive route that needs crisp conditions and features some unusual moves to gain and climb the shallow groove. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 03/Nov/1990.
Ticklists
The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , Portland , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , The Main Cuttings Sport Climbs , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Sport life , Sportland 2025 , 3* Portland Sport 2021
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| beefy_legacy | 1 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought I was on want out…. Lock off high on crux pocket before getting left on Gaston then foot high. Clip from lower heel hook, then switch to higher for rh crimp. Smash the crimp and use very low foot to get lh pinch, then right left feet, over with right, higher left foot, reach for pan pipe. At top, either lf into orange shelf and drive, or go far left with hand and back ( depending on how tired). Totally psyched to have done all moves multiple times, just couldn’t link through the crux this time. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Thought I was on want out…. Lock off high on crux pocket before getting left on Gaston then foot high. Clip from lower heel hook, then switch to higher for rh crimp. Smash the crimp and use very low foot to get lh pinch, then right left feet, over with right, higher left foot, reach for pan pipe. At top, either lf into orange shelf and drive, or go far left with hand and back ( depending on how tired). Totally psyched to have done all moves multiple times, just couldn’t link through the crux this time. |
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| Christopher Reed | 9 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: 5'6" and 0 ape index beta :) - https://youtu.be/6O8ql7v0it8?si=uh-1Dziy3V8o2qBh | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 5'6" and 0 ape index beta :) - https://youtu.be/6O8ql7v0it8?si=uh-1Dziy3V8o2qBh |
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| kzb.out | 8 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beta Video - https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cu0BZemg6dE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Beta Video - https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cu0BZemg6dE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== |
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| Hulleylm | 5 Feb, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hold before the crux is loose, would not advise putting weight on. Hold is on the right, under the overhang. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Hold before the crux is loose, would not advise putting weight on. Hold is on the right, under the overhang. |
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| DylanAsena | 20 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt low in the grade with some creative beta (Heel to hand, bump up, heel above hand, cross over to corner). Seen people saying very hard for the shorter but felt soft at 166cm | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Felt low in the grade with some creative beta (Heel to hand, bump up, heel above hand, cross over to corner). Seen people saying very hard for the shorter but felt soft at 166cm |
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| annasoli | 15 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt impossible till I tried a heel to hand at the start of the crux as a joke - actually very effective! I still slap against the wall where (I think) the hold broke. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Felt impossible till I tried a heel to hand at the start of the crux as a joke - actually very effective! I still slap against the wall where (I think) the hold broke. |
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| Cyrees | 25 Nov, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The sidepull hold just before the second bulge came off yesterday. Tall people shouldn't be affected too much. Moves into the crux still possible to do if short, but on much less good holds and with a little more effort. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The sidepull hold just before the second bulge came off yesterday. Tall people shouldn't be affected too much. Moves into the crux still possible to do if short, but on much less good holds and with a little more effort. |
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| Adam Lincoln | 6 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The hold is in the best nick ive ever felt it in at the moment! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The hold is in the best nick ive ever felt it in at the moment! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Cuttings
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The Incredible Hulk
Grade: 7c ***
(The Promenade)