Rockfax Description
Technical face moves based around a very thin crack. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 16.4.90 16/Apr/1990

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a, Portland.

duncan 15/Dec/17 Lead dog
with Sean Smith
Hidden 09/Dec/17 TR dog
afterthesend 29/Nov/17 Lead rpt
afterthesend 24/Nov/17 Lead rpt
afrosam 20/Nov/17 Lead RP
duncan 18/Nov/17 Lead dog
with Sean Smith
Hidden 12/Nov/17 Lead dog
fuzzysheep01 24/Oct/17 Lead dog
with Ian Wyatt , Ed Shaw
slowmotion 22/Oct/17 Lead RP

1st rp

with Katie P
Linc 15/Oct/17 Lead RP
with Kay
tommccluskey 10/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Fakey Rocks 10/Sep/17 TR dnf

Just to first crux moves little overlap section, but couldn't do it.

Chops 06/Aug/17 Lead dog
KDhruev 03/Aug/17 Lead RP
adamsriches 30/Jul/17 Lead dog

Stiff out of the small roof and hard on the face

with Elodie
Hidden 23/Jul/17 Lead dog
Lisa P 15/Jul/17 2nd dog

Could not do any moves on the face. Very reachy for the short.

with james n
james n 15/Jul/17 Lead dog

Really sequency and difficult to onsight. Holds were really greasy today and had to chalk on almost every move

with Lisa P
jakecollins 01/Jul/17 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Jun/17 TR dog
suddy 19/Jun/17 Lead RP
with Mike Spooner, Tom Alford
mikespooner 18/Jun/17 Lead RP

3rd go

Hidden 24/Apr/17 TR dog
gem_stone12 ?/Apr/17 TR dog
nimajneb ?/Apr/17 Lead rpt
meinecke 30/Mar/17 2nd
Mark Stevenson 30/Mar/17 Lead RP
with OUMC Members
Hidden 18/Mar/17 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Feb/17 TR dnf
Hidden 14/Jan/17 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
ssutton 11/Dec/16 TR dog
with Markus
Matt77 23/Oct/16 Lead RP

Did it on my 3rd go.

with Owen
Owen W-G 23/Oct/16 Lead RP

Bolt to bolt then first RP. Attempted in 2011 but couldn't do last, painful move. Good connies in full sun (cold wind)

with Matt B
Gabe Oliver 08/Oct/16 Lead dog

Definitely hard for 7a. Really cruxy, difficult to read section over the overlap. Had a couple of goes but still couldn't get it clean

db1010 08/Oct/16 Lead G/U
Xelif 25/Sep/16 Lead dog
jake lee 16/Sep/16 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Aug/16 TR dog
robajob 25/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Kt
Hidden 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
jake lee ?/Jul/16 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jun/16 Lead RP
Sam4242 10/Jun/16 Lead RP

3rd go

afterthesend 15/May/16 Lead RP

Got on first RP attempt

RFWilkie 01/May/16 Lead RP
Misha 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
with Ian W
AlexD 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
with Nat, Ed
AlexD 27/Apr/16 Lead dog
Alex Winter 09/Apr/16 Lead RP

Second tie-in. Good fun -- sequency between the rests.

with Nick
ASchwirtz 20/Mar/16 Lead RP

2nd attempt went clean

Graham Westbrook 03/Feb/16 Lead RP

1st RP. Had to work the sequence at the top. Nice climb!

tobydunford 16/Jan/16 Lead RP
with Oli
elfka 15/Jan/16 2nd dog
with Ben Corbey
Robrossmills ??/2016 Lead dog
Alex Handley 21/Nov/15 Lead RP

Sequencey but great moves

with Adam Shelton
Hidden 03/Nov/15 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Sep/15 -
BRoe 26/Aug/15 Lead β
with Pimnalishous
Albachoss 08/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Dougie
Hidden 14/Jul/15 Lead dog
lawsy_boy1 09/Jul/15 Lead
dswansonlow 08/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Alex Banks
Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead RP
Dandan82 30/May/15 Lead dog
dprctr 10/May/15 Lead dog

Finally found a way over the overlap. Took a lot of effort.

with Sumee
Nick Russell 09/May/15 Lead RP

Hard to onsight. Smooth once I'd tried the moves. Probably 7a+.

Bargate_Champ 05/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 03/May/15 Lead RP
leglesslizard 11/Apr/15 Lead RP
MontyH 01/Apr/15 TR dnf
with Brian
brian watson 01/Apr/15 Lead RP
zakbentley 11/Feb/15 TR O/S
Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
BenL ??/2015 Lead RP
nimajneb ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/14 TR dog
paultaylor 12/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Matt Roberts
GrahamGiles 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

That 1st roof is brutally desperate! Followed by some serious techers and greeted with a wet flake >.< very cool moves though

with Renna Clifford
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
keithpeck 16/May/14 Lead RP
SandyJJS 12/Apr/14 Lead dog
DJ Nelson 16/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go

with Micaela Langellotti
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead dog
RadekNowak 22/Feb/14 Lead RP
Tommyads ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Dec/13 TR dog
sarpedon 14/Dec/13 TR dog
LJC 05/Dec/13 Lead
jonleighton 01/Dec/13 Lead β
Hidden ?/Dec/13 -
samparsons 29/Nov/13 Lead RP
dprctr 03/Nov/13 Lead dog

Last route of the day, much fun. Went left towards ivy at the first crux rather than straight up. Upper moves are brilliant.

with Patrick
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead β
PeterDawson 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 19/Aug/13 Lead RP

My first 7th grade climb and first project. The result of around 8 worked sessions and a lot of effort. Amazing climb, jug hauling, bouldery slaps hard crimps and high feet. desperate upper crack section. Awesome

daviesxxx 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

great thuggy bottom, with very technical top. Found the clips hard to clip on the on sight. So close to coming off on a number of occasions. Absolutely knackered, couldn't do anything else!!

Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 24/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia
philhaigh 21/Jun/13 2nd RP
Graham Booth 13/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got all the individual moves, needed more time to lead

philhaigh 15/May/13 Lead dog
RD 05/May/13 Lead O/S
marcb 04/May/13 Lead dog

Got all the moves. Wanted to go for a RP but it started raining.

with Ed Ratcliffe
JCAshman 28/Mar/13 Lead O/S

first 7a onsight!

Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead dog
Adam_42 16/Feb/13 Lead RP

Tried it over the Summer. Came back and took a few goes to get it clean. First 7A!

with Beth Frugtniet
Hidden 04/Jan/13 TR dnf
salix 01/Jan/13 TR dnf

Foxed on top section, seepage didn't help but probably not to blame.

with Phil
trevor macalonan 01/Jan/13 Lead dog
Jobbo 09/Dec/12 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Dec/12 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 11/Nov/12 Lead RP

Great sequence.

with Chris S
matiamallia 30/Sep/12 Lead RP
mikeconway 23/Sep/12 Lead RP
lewiz 22/Sep/12 Lead RP
matiamallia 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
chiverstom 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Scott, Alice
Ramon Marin 18/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Send on the 2nd go after working the crux. Again, as per all other sandbags in the Cutting, this is never 7a, more like 7a+ at least.

Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead dog
al99 26/Jun/12 Lead RP

Made it second attempt having worked out the sequences.

with Jen Crook
Jonathan Emett 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt

1st go. glad to have got it done, didn't like it.

with oli
Jonathan Emett 10/Jun/12 Lead dnf

1 aborted attempt as it started to rain.

with ben
John Mcshea 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 09/Jun/12 Lead dog

2 gos. worked out a rubbish sequence but it should work.

with siwan
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 08/Jun/12 2nd dog
richsmithinbristol 08/Jun/12 Lead RP

1 RP

3 Names 15/May/12 Lead RP

First redpoint

with Nick
El3ctroFuzz 13/May/12 Lead RP

Fell off above the footledge on the onsight. 2nd go. F7a!

with Alex Chapman
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
Keendan 02/Apr/12 Lead dog

That move is very hard. The rest is steady with a cool head. I didn't have one.

natalietanzer 16/Mar/12 Lead dog

took too long workin out initial roofy bit.

with Dan Gibson
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead RP
innes ??/2012 Lead dog
matt perks ??/2012 -
Dandan82 24/Dec/11 Lead RP
GarethHall 05/Nov/11 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 05/Nov/11 Lead dnf
with toby
Jack_F 29/Oct/11 Lead RP

2nd Redpoint attempt after blowing the onsight going wrong handed through the roof!

Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead dog
patrickc 11/Sep/11 TR dnf
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
Haydn Jones 02/Sep/11 Lead RP

Fantastic move through the lip, once you work the sequence out, it doesn't feel to bad at all!

Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead dog
Ed morris 02/Sep/11 Lead RP
James Nott 30/Aug/11 Lead RP

7a+ in the new Portland Guide

Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead dog
quiffhanger 21/Aug/11 Lead RP

Fluffed the first crux on the flash attempt despite having all the beta :( Second go. Beware the in-situ pigeon.

Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead dog
sportsten 07/Aug/11 Lead β
with SwissMachine
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead dog
Tomar 03/Jul/11 Lead RP

Good but no way 7a. 7a+ would seem fair in my view.

with Ross
JPGR 25/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Owen W-G 22/May/11 Lead dnf

Fell off on first RP attempt trying to slap for the big hold by the final bolt. Nails crux at the top, but I'll be coming back to crush. Best left until after 2pm once in the shade.

with Max
Mike_Hayes 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
chris sm 22/May/11 Lead dog

Quick play at the end of the day. Didn't try the RP but should be ok next time.Hard for F7a.

with Laurel Bowler
Kevster 21/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead dnf
KDhruev 22/Apr/11 Lead dog
Rob Grant 16/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Mar/11 TR dog
Wendy 12/Mar/11 Lead RP

Really good, technical route - once i'd worked out the bottom roof - hard for the short!

wi11 ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Marcus, Nat
Hidden 30/Jan/11 TR dnf
jgustafsson 23/Jan/11 Lead dog

Missed the onsight, and one attempt thereafter. Really enjoyed it, but I should have gritted my teeth a bit more...

with Gavin, Ivan
Wil Treasure 23/Jan/11 Lead RP

Toproped first. Should have bagged it first lead attempt, but got it third go. Had a bit of a 'mare on the last move when I couldn't remember what to do. Got engaged in the morning before climbing, that only took one go!

Hidden 09/Jan/11 TR dog
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Dec/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Dec/10 TR RP
Hidden 12/Dec/10 TR dog
Hidden 11/Dec/10 TR dog
brices 06/Nov/10 Lead RP
DafSWMC 18/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Nik G, Alys
gejones 18/Sep/10 Lead β
with DafSWMC
ThomasB ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
steven24584 11/Aug/10 Lead RP
jacobjacob 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

felt easy after hall of mirrors, well chuffed :)

Kevster 18/Jul/10 Lead
Leeds 24/Jun/10 Lead RP
Roberto 25/May/10 Lead RP
Ciro 20/Feb/10 Lead dog
w.pettet-smith 20/Dec/09 Lead RP

had a play on it in the summer but didn't do very well. first redpoint this time, with much gurning and grunting and maybe a little scream. well chuffed as i havn't got to climb much of late. nice technical moves in the middle, i nearly lost it when it got easy though. oh lordy. lovely december day.

with jo
Hidden 28/Sep/09 Lead RP
Daniel Wicks 06/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Marcus
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/09 2nd dnf
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead RP
derico 24/Jun/09 Lead β

Very technical and sequency climb on side pulls and crimps.. not too powerful if you get the sequence right!

with Oli
nigel pearson 20/Jun/09 Lead RP


with Yoko
barni 18/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Northern
w.pettet-smith 13/Jun/09 Lead dog

tried four times and still failed! unstuck by the moves coming off the rest after the hardish pulls over the lip (not too bad really with high feet and a gaston) screamed a bit. quality route.

with any one who would belay me
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith 01/Jun/09 Lead dog

found the hard low section ok, then got a bit stumped higher up.seems nicey technical.

Hidden ?/Jun/09 TR
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead dog
thompson1000 ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Barni
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead RP
vertigo 04/Apr/09 Lead RP

A nemesis vanquished!

schof 23/Mar/09 Lead RP
with harry massey
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Billg 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
matt green(uni) ?/Feb/09 TR RP
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead dog
with billg
Ed Babs 17/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Marti
Marti999 17/Jan/09 Lead rpt
La benya ??/2009 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
sam_cox ?/Dec/08 Lead
Hidden 02/Nov/08 Lead RP
trev_f 28/Oct/08 Lead RP
with Jon
Ben Harper 25/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Karl Alvarez
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
Somerset swede basher 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Wicks
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/08 2nd
Matt Bennett 02/Mar/08 TR dog
Rob Kennard 01/Mar/08 -
with Rich White, Harry Massey
Rik Dawes ??/2008 Lead RP
Boy ??/2008 -
nawface ??/2008 -
John Southworth ??/2008 -
Lloyders 17/Dec/07 Lead dog
dmoir 26/Nov/07 Lead RP
with Dan B and Heather R
Scott N ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
DrGav 12/Aug/07 Lead RP

Very sequency. Felt to be at my limit! Amazing face climb.

with Adam
Martin Krasnansky 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
catt 23/Jun/07 Lead RP

A really great route with a bit of everything. Fun moves, hard moves, delicate moves. Had to fight for it towards the top but just made it all the more rewarding.

Morgan Woods 23/Jun/07 Lead RP

Finally!!....done after about 6 attempts across 3 days....hardish for 7a.

with Wilbur and Scottish Iain
Wilbur 23/Jun/07 Lead RP

Got it 5th attempt (over 3 days). Was spurred on by Iain and Morgs having done it clean just before me...., and half a can of red bull!

with Iain
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/07 TR RP
with Marilyn
DrGav 07/Apr/07 Lead dog

Two hard sectionn, the second took quite a few goes to work out. Excellently fingery.

with Chris
Hidden 28/Jan/07 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jan/07 Lead β
feilx 11/Nov/06 Lead RP
Richard Horn 05/Nov/06 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Aug/06 Lead RP
bigie bob 23/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/06 Lead RP
chris sm 01/Apr/06 TR dog
eddieclimb ?/Feb/06 Lead RP
with Dan Savory, Jason Parker
dan gibson ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
dannyboy83 ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
lukea 17/Nov/05 TR O/S
with dan
lx ?/May/05 Lead
with james
Hidden 02/Jan/05 -
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/1999 Lead RP

Still think it should be 7a+. Too sustained for 7a.

with James Dunlop, Jimbo, John Pullin
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/98 Lead RP
with Jason Lloyd
clark alston ?/Jan/98 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1998 TR dog
Greg Cunningham ??/1998 Lead O/S
buzby78 04/Apr/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
Hidden 24/Aug/96 Lead β
goi.ashmore 18/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 73
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set