Rockfax Description
The big corner has a hard start and a superb, pumpy finish. High in the grade. The ivy needs stripping back from time to time. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29.4.94 29/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland.

Spatchcock 14/Jan Lead
Spatchcock 13/Jan -

Awesome route... hard start but sweet when figured out, made the most of the rests, pumpy finish, had good mates onside to encourage me to finish! Beautiful Climbing!

S.Kew 07/Jan Lead rpt

After getting this 1st rp in September only got repeat after Phils beta for boulder start. Felt harder today. Numerous attempts at start before getting repeat. Rest of climb ok.

Hidden 03/Dec/17 Lead dog
hankyc 01/Dec/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/17 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Nov/17 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 28/Oct/17 Lead dnf
with Ed B
Russell Blackaller 22/Oct/17 Lead

Might have onsighted, might not. I've definitely tried something similar around 4 years ago. Soft 7a.

with Charlotte
brices 15/Oct/17 Lead rpt
with Remus
Hidden 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
S.Kew 13/Sep/17 Lead RP
with Rich
tommccluskey 10/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/17 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead RP
Edward Kwong 06/Aug/17 Lead β

Made it harder than it needed to be, great line and finish.

rachelvlc 06/Aug/17 Lead
with Luke
Aaron.Clifford 05/Aug/17 Lead RP

First go didn't find the holds at the start :(

GrahamGiles 05/Aug/17 Lead RP

Couldn't find the holds at the top and fell, went easy next try. Good route

Qisheng Xie 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/17 -
mr_cf 30/Jul/17 Lead β

FLASHED.!!! 2nd 7a Flash!

Matti Puckridge 30/Jul/17 Lead RP
with Greg Chandler
littleluke 09/Jul/17 Lead
JKinsella 17/Jun/17 Lead RP

Nice warm up today, had tried back in the day. Not used to stringing that many moves together! Need little bit of fitness for Fighting Torque.

Hidden 10/Jun/17 Lead dog
tsyrett 14/May/17 Lead RP

2nd attempt today after putting the clips in and a little figuring out on the last move. Tough 7a for sure!

dylan.b 13/May/17 2nd
with George
George Killaspy 13/May/17 Lead dog

Very, very hard start. Beautiful moves in the middle and a juggy, thuggy, pumpy finish. I'll be back for the G/U

with Dylan
derico 17/Apr/17 Lead β
with Tom Jordan
TomJ 17/Apr/17 Lead RP
with derico
samparsons 12/Apr/17 Lead RP

First tried May 2016

Hidden 12/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/17 Lead rpt
tsyrett 19/Mar/17 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 14/Mar/17 Lead rpt
katy_abra 14/Mar/17 Lead RP
Pete Scott 26/Feb/17 Lead RP
Linc 18/Feb/17 Lead dog
with Kay
brian watson 02/Jan/17 Lead RP

Still fluffed the top first go today, got there in the end.

Hidden ??/2017 -
pymn nice but dim ??/2017 Lead
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
brian watson 11/Dec/16 Lead dog

Wasted on the final move to lower off. (Note to self : on top wall from big spike with left hand use vertical runnel of side pulls to the right)

with anne marie sheppard, Scott Titt
jakecollins 19/Nov/16 Lead β
Hidden 25/Sep/16 -
rubben 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S

With Mo

Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead dog
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 02/May/16 Lead O/S

Great route, steep!

with viki harvey
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Caspian Johnson 13/Mar/16 Lead RP
with ollie_e
ollie_e 13/Mar/16 Lead RP

Pumped out of my MIND. Reminded me how to sport climb (ie, keep fucking moving).

with Caspian
Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead rpt
Bernie L 15/Nov/15 Lead RP

1st RP

cdpuk 15/Nov/15 Lead dog

Got the starting sequence first time on first lead, then backed off the top after a few attempts. Got the top on another go after a rest. Could probably do it clean next time.

Beefy Bert 26/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Brown 26/Sep/15 Lead
with Lilifa
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
philhaigh 25/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/15 2nd dog
Linc 06/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with louis
afrosam 31/May/15 Lead dog
dprctr 10/May/15 Lead dnf

Lots of faffing near the start

with Sumee
brian watson 04/May/15 TR dog
with Phil
philhaigh 04/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 02/May/15 Lead RP
Dean177 19/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Dibdawg 19/Apr/15 Lead dog

Impossible start for me much better climbing there after.

innes 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Solly K.D. 07/Mar/15 Lead

Great climb first ever 7A outdoors.

Hidden 17/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 11/Jan/15 Lead β

Tough start, hard to read. The roof may be intimidating but definitely not the crux.

with Helen
Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead dog
Ally Smith 11/Jan/15 Lead β

Thuggy finish - 7a+ doesn't seem out of place

with Helen
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
AlexD 20/Dec/14 2nd dog
RFWilkie 21/Sep/14 Lead dog

Very hard and commiting top move.

richardashe 29/Jun/14 Lead RP

good stamina climb

ASchwirtz 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
ASchwirtz 15/Jun/14 Lead dog

Fall just before the top after one practice lead. Need to come back for it

Hidden 02/Feb/14 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Feb/14 Lead dog
richsmithinbristol 25/Jan/14 Lead RP


nimajneb ??/2014 Lead O/S
jonleighton 07/Dec/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 11/May/13 Lead RP
RD 05/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Jobbo 21/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Alex
lewiz 31/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Feb/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead dog
Kopinski ?/Feb/13 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 01/Dec/12 Lead rpt

Excellent weather. Wore a thermal, t shirt, fleece, hoodie and downy in the car and sweated loads. Then arrived at the crag and climbed in a t shirt.

with Anthony
andrew hammond 02/Sep/12 Lead RP

3rd go! happy with this one...

Dandan82 21/Jul/12 Lead RP

Tried once months ago, got it clean first go today, I think I got a bit lucky guessing for holds at the top, it's pretty draining

tedj234 08/Jul/12 Lead
with Kate
Jonathan Emett 23/Jun/12 Lead RP

3rd go. so good!

with Paul
Jonathan Emett 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt

2 gos. forgot how to do the roof 2nd go due to being pumped stupid.

with oli
3 Names 15/May/12 Lead RP

put the clips up on the redpoint

with Nick
MarkRyder 05/May/12 Lead RP
with Ivan M
3 Names 18/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead dog
John Mcshea 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Dec/11 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Dec/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Nov/11 TR RP
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead RP
Brian H 27/Nov/11 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
dale1968 14/Oct/11 -
with Tom
Linc 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17/Aug/11 Lead RP

Second go. Fell at lower off first go... Lame!

Hidden 11/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Jul/11 Lead dog
Rob Grant 16/Apr/11 Lead
garywong 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Great climb. Having eventually worked out the moves on the roofs didn't have the strength, stamina or guts for the very last move.

GarethHall 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jan/11 TR dog
jgustafsson 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Don't know if this is hard 7a, but very pleased with first onsight of the grade at Portland

with Gavin
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead β
Ed Babs 13/Nov/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Nov/10 TR dog
Luke Dawson 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S

cool route bit sandy in the middle would clean up with more ascents though easy 7a

Caspian Johnson 23/Oct/10 Lead dog
Dan_Carroll 23/Oct/10 Lead dog

very nice

schof 06/Oct/10 Lead RP

fell off the start before trying the 7c variation, good route hard to find the holds at the top. second go

with steve howe
Alex Mason 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Hard for 7a, reminded me of a crap kilnsey route. Poor rock in places, but the big roof finish makes it worthwhile. After reading the other comments on the finish, i used an obvious sloping shoulder press to get stood on lip (felt like the crux).

with Laura Perry
Wendy 16/May/10 Lead dog

Cleanly led all the way to the top then took a brilliant, massive lob from the top! Fun climb!

dominic lee 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with mike waters
Hidden 03/Apr/10 -
sam_cox 13/Mar/10 Lead β
pezzerrr 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 31/Jan/10 Lead RP

reet hard to onsight i reckon. at the top, where are the holds?! to the right as it happens. very enjoyable, although the bouldery start is a bit uncouth, i like easy starts.heel hook for the last clip. sorted.

El3ctroFuzz 30/Jan/10 Lead dog

struggled at the roof after i was given beta for the jug on the right.. (which doesnt exist!)

with Elaine Budden
La benya ??/2010 Lead β

very easy, it might have helped watching the other 2 do it first... does grabbing the lower off count

Jane Weir ??/2010 -
dan gibson 08/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with sam read
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
Chubbard 08/Mar/09 Lead dnf


Billg 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead dog
with billg
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 18/Jul/08 Lead dog
with Martin (Dery)
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead RP
Morgan Woods 23/Mar/08 Lead β

Excellent route with 3 distinct hard sections. Skipped a clip below the first roof.

with David S
Dave Searle 23/Mar/08 Lead RP
with jim
Richard Horn 01/Mar/08 Lead RP
feilx 02/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Heather
Boy ??/2008 -
Martin Krasnansky 02/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Ram MkiV 19/Jul/06 Lead β
with Alex Mason
mikeski 19/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/06 Lead dog
bigie bob 15/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden 25/Feb/06 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dnf

Shit myself silly on the roof. Bailed out straight away, idiot.

with Jimbo
Hidden ??/1999 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1998 Lead dnf
buzby78 03/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez ?/May/96 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 01/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 17/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Roget 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set