19m.

Rockfax Description
The big corner has a hard start and a superb, pumpy finish. High in the grade. The ivy needs stripping back from time to time. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29/Apr/1994

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland, Portland 7a/+

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UserDateNotes
Jeff25 24 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: it is buckets at the end but just after the roof they become hard to find and not quite as 'buckety' as you'd like. Fell off this from these last moves whilst having the anchors right at eye level.... very annoying and very pumpy... good 7a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: it is buckets at the end but just after the roof they become hard to find and not quite as 'buckety' as you'd like. Fell off this from these last moves whilst having the anchors right at eye level.... very annoying and very pumpy... good 7a.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
just one more 17 Jun Lead dog Off on the last move, just too jaded! Good route
with Luke
Off on the last move, just too jaded! Good route
with Luke
Luke_92 17 Jun TR dog Had to cheat past the first bolt today. The rest is ok, really cool route.
Had to cheat past the first bolt today. The rest is ok, really cool route.
Tomas P 16 Jun Lead O/S
with Summer, Aelita
with Summer, Aelita
Hidden 11 May Lead RP
Kris suriyo 6 May Lead O/S
katiep 11 Mar Lead RP 2nd proper go after taking a couple of goes figuring out the start then heartbreakingly falling off at the top first time
with Joe K
2nd proper go after taking a couple of goes figuring out the start then heartbreakingly falling off at the top first time
with Joe K
afterthesend 2 Mar Lead RP 1st go today after fluffing it twice last weekend. What a knobber.
1st go today after fluffing it twice last weekend. What a knobber.
Will Beaumont 23 Feb 2nd dnf
Hidden 17 Feb Lead RP
kazoinks 16 Feb Lead RP Went 2nd go! First attempt to figure the moves and pop the draws in, required some 'takes' and a couple of falls; Only made it to the clip before the chains. Next attempt was a lot quicker and went without much resistance. The entire routes goes from a boulder problem, to some more technical climbing into a roof! Smasher of a route! Another fine offering from the Cuttings!
with Matt Johnson
Went 2nd go! First attempt to figure the moves and pop the draws in, required some 'takes' and a couple of falls; Only made it to the clip before the chains. Next attempt was a lot quicker and went without much resistance. The entire routes goes from a boulder problem, to some more technical climbing into a roof! Smasher of a route! Another fine offering from the Cuttings!
with Matt Johnson
Hidden 13 Jan Lead rpt
Hidden 13 Jan Lead dog
ThomasB 12 Jan Lead RP
Sam Brown 29 Dec, 2018 Lead rpt
with Natalie Brown
with Natalie Brown
Graham Westbrook 8 Nov, 2018 Lead RP Very close to the onsight. Did it next go and felt worse!
Very close to the onsight. Did it next go and felt worse!
artmal 4 Nov, 2018 Lead RP
with Ewa
with Ewa
Hidden 26 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 23 Oct, 2018 Lead dog
FabioM ?Oct, 2018 Lead dnf Tried with Dave. the start is a V4-V5 ... middle can be worked... very pumpy finish on a massive overhang with not ideal holds ...
Tried with Dave. the start is a V4-V5 ... middle can be worked... very pumpy finish on a massive overhang with not ideal holds ...
will_of_fortune 9 Sep, 2018 TR dog
wlin 9 Sep, 2018 TR dnf On draw retrieval duty; cheated over bulge start and roof finish.
On draw retrieval duty; cheated over bulge start and roof finish.
Jonathan Emett 27 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt 2nd go. All but one move at the start, which frankly I was bored of.
2nd go. All but one move at the start, which frankly I was bored of.
atapper21 10 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with jolucas
with jolucas
jolucas 10 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
Kayface42 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dog That start was... unenjoyable.
with Linc
That start was... unenjoyable.
with Linc
julesmckim 25 May, 2018 Lead O/S Excellent varied climbing with a desperate start and a wild finish
with Alex Renshaw
Excellent varied climbing with a desperate start and a wild finish
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 25 May, 2018 Lead dnf
Matthew Davies 28 Apr, 2018 Lead RP Great route. Pumpy, fun moves all the way. Will climb again.
with Sean Breza
Great route. Pumpy, fun moves all the way. Will climb again.
with Sean Breza
Hidden 11 Apr, 2018 Lead β
jjdaly 9 Mar, 2018 Lead RP
with tsyrett
with tsyrett
Q.Estelles 18 Feb, 2018 Lead RP
eoinb 18 Feb, 2018 TR dog Awesome! Would love to come back for the lead. Won't be straight away.
Awesome! Would love to come back for the lead. Won't be straight away.
nickhamb 18 Feb, 2018 Lead dog 1st section: Powerful boulder move to be worked on. Middle section: Fell near the top Last section: Really struggling to get over the roof. Tried at least 10 times! Need to improve my roof climbing and maybe work out a comfortable way of climbing through. Conditions were bad so could be better next time?
with eoinb
1st section: Powerful boulder move to be worked on. Middle section: Fell near the top Last section: Really struggling to get over the roof. Tried at least 10 times! Need to improve my roof climbing and maybe work out a comfortable way of climbing through. Conditions were bad so could be better next time?
with eoinb
Hidden 17 Feb, 2018 Lead dog
Spatchcock 14 Jan, 2018 Lead
Spatchcock 13 Jan, 2018 - Awesome route... hard start but sweet when figured out, made the most of the rests, pumpy finish, had good mates onside to encourage me to finish! Beautiful Climbing!
Awesome route... hard start but sweet when figured out, made the most of the rests, pumpy finish, had good mates onside to encourage me to finish! Beautiful Climbing!
S.Kew 7 Jan, 2018 Lead rpt After getting this 1st rp in September only got repeat after Phils beta for boulder start. Felt harder today. Numerous attempts at start before getting repeat. Rest of climb ok.
After getting this 1st rp in September only got repeat after Phils beta for boulder start. Felt harder today. Numerous attempts at start before getting repeat. Rest of climb ok.
Hidden 3 Dec, 2017 Lead dog
hankyc 1 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Nov, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Nov, 2017 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 28 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Russell Blackaller 22 Oct, 2017 Lead Might have onsighted, might not. I've definitely tried something similar around 4 years ago. Soft 7a.
with Charlotte
Might have onsighted, might not. I've definitely tried something similar around 4 years ago. Soft 7a.
with Charlotte
brices 15 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt
with remus
with remus
Hidden 15 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
S.Kew 13 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
tommccluskey 10 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
Edward Kwong 6 Aug, 2017 Lead β Made it harder than it needed to be, great line and finish.
Made it harder than it needed to be, great line and finish.
rachelvlc 6 Aug, 2017 Lead
Aaron.Clifford 5 Aug, 2017 Lead RP First go didn't find the holds at the start :(
First go didn't find the holds at the start :(
GrahamGiles 5 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Couldn't find the holds at the top and fell, went easy next try. Good route
Couldn't find the holds at the top and fell, went easy next try. Good route
Qisheng Xie 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 -
mr_cf 30 Jul, 2017 Lead β FLASHED.!!! 2nd 7a Flash!
FLASHED.!!! 2nd 7a Flash!
Matti Puckridge 30 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
with Greg Chandler
with Greg Chandler
Petethemeat 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Maynard
with Maynard
littleluke 9 Jul, 2017 Lead
JKinsella 17 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Nice warm up today, had tried back in the day. Not used to stringing that many moves together! Need little bit of fitness for Fighting Torque.
Nice warm up today, had tried back in the day. Not used to stringing that many moves together! Need little bit of fitness for Fighting Torque.
Hidden 10 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
tsyrett 14 May, 2017 Lead RP 2nd attempt today after putting the clips in and a little figuring out on the last move. Tough 7a for sure!
2nd attempt today after putting the clips in and a little figuring out on the last move. Tough 7a for sure!
dylan.b 13 May, 2017 2nd
George Killaspy 13 May, 2017 Lead dog Very, very hard start. Beautiful moves in the middle and a juggy, thuggy, pumpy finish. I'll be back for the G/U
with dylan.b
Very, very hard start. Beautiful moves in the middle and a juggy, thuggy, pumpy finish. I'll be back for the G/U
with dylan.b
derico 17 Apr, 2017 Lead β
with Tom Jordan
with Tom Jordan
TomJ 17 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with derico
with derico
samparsons 12 Apr, 2017 Lead RP First tried May 2016
First tried May 2016
Hidden 12 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 12 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
tsyrett 19 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 14 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
katy_abra 14 Mar, 2017 Lead RP
Pete Scott 26 Feb, 2017 Lead RP
with tsyrett
with tsyrett
Hidden 18 Feb, 2017 Lead dog
brian watson 2 Jan, 2017 Lead RP Still fluffed the top first go today, got there in the end.
Still fluffed the top first go today, got there in the end.
Hidden ??, 2017 -
pymn nice but dim ??, 2017 Lead
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
brian watson 11 Dec, 2016 Lead dog Wasted on the final move to lower off. (Note to self : on top wall from big spike with left hand use vertical runnel of side pulls to the right)
with anne marie sheppard, scott titt
Wasted on the final move to lower off. (Note to self : on top wall from big spike with left hand use vertical runnel of side pulls to the right)
with anne marie sheppard, scott titt
jakecollins 19 Nov, 2016 Lead β
Hidden 25 Sep, 2016 -
rubben 4 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S With Mo
With Mo
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 22 May, 2016 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 2 May, 2016 Lead O/S Great route, steep!
with viki harvey
Great route, steep!
with viki harvey
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Caspian Johnson 13 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
with ollie_e
with ollie_e
Hidden 13 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 16 Jan, 2016 Lead rpt
Bernie L 15 Nov, 2015 Lead RP 1st RP
with cdpuk
1st RP
with cdpuk
cdpuk 15 Nov, 2015 Lead dog Got the starting sequence first time on first lead, then backed off the top after a few attempts. Got the top on another go after a rest. Could probably do it clean next time.
Got the starting sequence first time on first lead, then backed off the top after a few attempts. Got the top on another go after a rest. Could probably do it clean next time.
Beefy Bert 26 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
Brown 26 Sep, 2015 Lead
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
philhaigh 25 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
ChrisDavis 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ela
with Ela
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
afrosam 31 May, 2015 Lead dog
dprctr 10 May, 2015 Lead dnf Lots of faffing near the start
Lots of faffing near the start
brian watson 4 May, 2015 TR dog
with Phil
with Phil
philhaigh 4 May, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 2 May, 2015 Lead RP
Dean177 19 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf
with Dibdawg
with Dibdawg
Dibdawg 19 Apr, 2015 Lead dog Impossible start for me much better climbing there after.
with Dean177
Impossible start for me much better climbing there after.
with Dean177
innes 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
Solly K.D. 7 Mar, 2015 Lead Great climb first ever 7A outdoors.
Great climb first ever 7A outdoors.
Hidden 17 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 11 Jan, 2015 Lead β Tough start, hard to read. The roof may be intimidating but definitely not the crux.
with hms
Tough start, hard to read. The roof may be intimidating but definitely not the crux.
with hms
Hidden 11 Jan, 2015 Lead dog
Ally Smith 11 Jan, 2015 Lead β Thuggy finish - 7a+ doesn't seem out of place
with hms
Thuggy finish - 7a+ doesn't seem out of place
with hms
Beefy Bert ??, 2015 Lead RP
AlexD 20 Dec, 2014 2nd dog
RFWilkie 21 Sep, 2014 Lead dog Very hard and commiting top move.
Very hard and commiting top move.
richardashe 29 Jun, 2014 Lead RP good stamina climb
good stamina climb
ASchwirtz 29 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
ASchwirtz 15 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Fall just before the top after one practice lead. Need to come back for it
Fall just before the top after one practice lead. Need to come back for it
Hidden 2 Feb, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Feb, 2014 Lead dog
richsmithinbristol 25 Jan, 2014 Lead RP 1Rp
1Rp
nimajneb ??, 2014 Lead O/S
jonleighton 7 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
lewiz 11 May, 2013 Lead RP
RD 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 24 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Jobbo 21 Apr, 2013 Lead RP
with Alex
with Alex
lewiz 31 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden 6 Feb, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 2 Feb, 2013 Lead dog
Kopinski ?Feb, 2013 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 1 Dec, 2012 Lead rpt Excellent weather. Wore a thermal, t shirt, fleece, hoodie and downy in the car and sweated loads. Then arrived at the crag and climbed in a t shirt.
with Anthony
Excellent weather. Wore a thermal, t shirt, fleece, hoodie and downy in the car and sweated loads. Then arrived at the crag and climbed in a t shirt.
with Anthony
andrew hammond 2 Sep, 2012 Lead RP 3rd go! happy with this one...
3rd go! happy with this one...
Dandan 21 Jul, 2012 Lead RP Tried once months ago, got it clean first go today, I think I got a bit lucky guessing for holds at the top, it's pretty draining
Tried once months ago, got it clean first go today, I think I got a bit lucky guessing for holds at the top, it's pretty draining
tedj234 8 Jul, 2012 Lead
with kenyajc
with kenyajc
Jonathan Emett 23 Jun, 2012 Lead RP 3rd go. so good!
with Paul
3rd go. so good!
with Paul
Jonathan Emett 20 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt 2 gos. forgot how to do the roof 2nd go due to being pumped stupid.
with OliBee
2 gos. forgot how to do the roof 2nd go due to being pumped stupid.
with OliBee
3 Names 15 May, 2012 Lead RP put the clips up on the redpoint
put the clips up on the redpoint
MarkRyder 5 May, 2012 Lead RP
with Ivan M
with Ivan M
3 Names 18 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 10 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
John Mcshea 26 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 17 Dec, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 10 Dec, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 27 Nov, 2011 TR RP
Hidden 27 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
Brian H 27 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 26 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
with Sophie Nunn
Hidden 20 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
dale1968 14 Oct, 2011 -
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17 Aug, 2011 Lead RP Second go. Fell at lower off first go... Lame!
with Linc
Second go. Fell at lower off first go... Lame!
with Linc
Hidden 11 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 Lead
garywong 26 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf Great climb. Having eventually worked out the moves on the roofs didn't have the strength, stamina or guts for the very last move.
Great climb. Having eventually worked out the moves on the roofs didn't have the strength, stamina or guts for the very last move.
GarethHall 26 Mar, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 TR dog
jgustafsson 23 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Don't know if this is hard 7a, but very pleased with first onsight of the grade at Portland
with Gavin
Don't know if this is hard 7a, but very pleased with first onsight of the grade at Portland
with Gavin
Hidden 9 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??, 2011 Lead β
Ed Babs 13 Nov, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Nov, 2010 TR dog
Luke Dawson 25 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S cool route bit sandy in the middle would clean up with more ascents though easy 7a
cool route bit sandy in the middle would clean up with more ascents though easy 7a
Caspian Johnson 23 Oct, 2010 Lead dog
Dan_Carroll 23 Oct, 2010 Lead dog very nice
very nice
schof 6 Oct, 2010 Lead RP fell off the start before trying the 7c variation, good route hard to find the holds at the top. second go
with steve howe
fell off the start before trying the 7c variation, good route hard to find the holds at the top. second go
with steve howe
Alex Mason 9 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Hard for 7a, reminded me of a crap kilnsey route. Poor rock in places, but the big roof finish makes it worthwhile. After reading the other comments on the finish, i used an obvious sloping shoulder press to get stood on lip (felt like the crux).
with Laura Perry
Hard for 7a, reminded me of a crap kilnsey route. Poor rock in places, but the big roof finish makes it worthwhile. After reading the other comments on the finish, i used an obvious sloping shoulder press to get stood on lip (felt like the crux).
with Laura Perry
Wendy 16 May, 2010 Lead dog Cleanly led all the way to the top then took a brilliant, massive lob from the top! Fun climb!
with colesy
Cleanly led all the way to the top then took a brilliant, massive lob from the top! Fun climb!
with colesy
dominic lee 16 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with mike waters
with mike waters
Hidden 3 Apr, 2010 -
sam_cox 13 Mar, 2010 Lead β
pezzerrr 14 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 31 Jan, 2010 Lead RP reet hard to onsight i reckon. at the top, where are the holds?! to the right as it happens. very enjoyable, although the bouldery start is a bit uncouth, i like easy starts.heel hook for the last clip. sorted.
reet hard to onsight i reckon. at the top, where are the holds?! to the right as it happens. very enjoyable, although the bouldery start is a bit uncouth, i like easy starts.heel hook for the last clip. sorted.
bunn.aroundthebloc 30 Jan, 2010 Lead dog struggled at the roof after i was given beta for the jug on the right.. (which doesnt exist!)
with Elaine Budden
struggled at the roof after i was given beta for the jug on the right.. (which doesnt exist!)
with Elaine Budden
La benya ??, 2010 Lead β very easy, it might have helped watching the other 2 do it first... does grabbing the lower off count
very easy, it might have helped watching the other 2 do it first... does grabbing the lower off count
Jane Weir ??, 2010 -
dan gibson 8 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Hidden 13 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
Chubbard 8 Mar, 2009 Lead dnf Nails.
with JimR
Nails.
with JimR
Billg 15 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
with SeanyC
with SeanyC
SeanyC ?Feb, 2009 Lead dog
with billg
with billg
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 10 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 18 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
with Martin (Dery)
with Martin (Dery)
Hidden 1 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
Morgan Woods 23 Mar, 2008 Lead β Excellent route with 3 distinct hard sections. Skipped a clip below the first roof.
with David S
Excellent route with 3 distinct hard sections. Skipped a clip below the first roof.
with David S
Dave Searle 23 Mar, 2008 Lead RP
with jim
with jim
Richard Horn 1 Mar, 2008 Lead RP
feilx 2 Feb, 2008 Lead RP
Boy ??, 2008 -
Martin Krasnansky 2 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Ram MkiV 19 Jul, 2006 Lead β
with Alex Mason
with Alex Mason
mikeski 19 Jul, 2006 2nd
Hidden 19 Jul, 2006 Lead dog
bigie bob 15 Jul, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden 18 Apr, 2006 Lead
Hidden 25 Feb, 2006 Lead RP
feeko ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Ben Thorne ??, 2000 Lead dnf Shit myself silly on the roof. Bailed out straight away, idiot.
with JIMBO
Shit myself silly on the roof. Bailed out straight away, idiot.
with JIMBO
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead dnf
buzby78 3 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez ?May, 1996 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 1 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 17 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
Roget 16 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set