18m.

Rockfax Description
A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves. Possibly 7c+. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14/Apr/1994

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, UK 8a and up

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UserDateNotes
JKinsella 15 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Re climbed by Sam, groove variation, since the hold break end of 2018.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Re climbed by Sam, groove variation, since the hold break end of 2018.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
JKinsella 3 May Lead RP Via the groove. Biggest fight for me so far over! 16 sessions since November. Got the full value on this, from not being able to do the individual moves to ripping off the crux hold the day I did them for the first time. I’ve taken fully inverted falls, punched myself in the face pinging off the undercuts and I have a scar on my arm from where I got the skin caught in a quick draw lowering off. Hardest route for me, way above any 7c or 7c+ I have tried.
Via the groove. Biggest fight for me so far over! 16 sessions since November. Got the full value on this, from not being able to do the individual moves to ripping off the crux hold the day I did them for the first time. I’ve taken fully inverted falls, punched myself in the face pinging off the undercuts and I have a scar on my arm from where I got the skin caught in a quick draw lowering off. Hardest route for me, way above any 7c or 7c+ I have tried.
samparsons 10 Mar Lead RP 19.01.18 Feels much easier than Hurricane. First lead attempt 28.1.18 only had one go, feels like I need a session on it. 11.2.18 tough session today, felt harder 8.12.18 put the draws in, found the missing part but then the weather came in. No RP today. 3.2.19 Good session with Joe, clipped the bolt by the undercuts, new high point. And did all the moves above even with the broken hold.
19.01.18 Feels much easier than Hurricane. First lead attempt 28.1.18 only had one go, feels like I need a session on it. 11.2.18 tough session today, felt harder 8.12.18 put the draws in, found the missing part but then the weather came in. No RP today. 3.2.19 Good session with Joe, clipped the bolt by the undercuts, new high point. And did all the moves above even with the broken hold.
JKinsella 20 Nov, 2018 Lead dog Some slightly unfortunate news today. I was trying this up the groove. As I was doing the crux the gaston hold broke, basically a large sheet of rock came away leaving behind a holdless scar. If any one else was using that hold, I'm afraid it's probably harder now. I still think its possible and almost did the move without it. It's almost certainly still 8a up the groove, but I think more difficult.
Some slightly unfortunate news today. I was trying this up the groove. As I was doing the crux the gaston hold broke, basically a large sheet of rock came away leaving behind a holdless scar. If any one else was using that hold, I'm afraid it's probably harder now. I still think its possible and almost did the move without it. It's almost certainly still 8a up the groove, but I think more difficult.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt Joe pulled off the last crux hold. Ruined my beta now! Makes the final crux move more spanny, maybe slightly tougher.
Joe pulled off the last crux hold. Ruined my beta now! Makes the final crux move more spanny, maybe slightly tougher.
Ally Smith 9 Dec, 2017 Lead dog Beta from AJM - great sequence using the toe-hook Egyptian to get up to the arete hold off the minging crimp in the groove. Clip before this very tenuous - either powerful undercut, or balancey arete option. Going with skipping the clip mid-crux. 2nd go - good links. Should go in Jan?
with hms
Beta from AJM - great sequence using the toe-hook Egyptian to get up to the arete hold off the minging crimp in the groove. Clip before this very tenuous - either powerful undercut, or balancey arete option. Going with skipping the clip mid-crux. 2nd go - good links. Should go in Jan?
with hms
yan hawkins 14 Nov, 2017 Lead
with _m.cox_, ron
with _m.cox_, ron
_m.cox_ 14 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 13 Nov, 2017 Lead dog Worked out a sequence
Worked out a sequence
brices 15 Oct, 2017 Lead RP Awsome route, one of the best I have done on Portland. Climbed the arete with a series of big slaps. 6th redpoint over the weekend, skipped the clip in the groove and took the ride where you shouldnt fall off.
with remus
Awsome route, one of the best I have done on Portland. Climbed the arete with a series of big slaps. 6th redpoint over the weekend, skipped the clip in the groove and took the ride where you shouldnt fall off.
with remus
Hidden 15 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Oct, 2017 Lead dog
tommccluskey 9 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Up the groove - great climbing but pretty soft...
Up the groove - great climbing but pretty soft...
Hidden 22 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
Robcook100 17 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
jakecollins 7 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ?Apr, 2017 Lead RP Up the groove and first 8a (grade pending!) after six visits.
Up the groove and first 8a (grade pending!) after six visits.
Hidden 17 Mar, 2017 TR dog
Hidden 13 Mar, 2017 TR dog
Shane Willis 23 Feb, 2017 Lead RP Tried it up the arête, and up the groove, both ways have great (and severely differing) moves, and in my opinion are just as hard as each other in different ways. Sent it up the groove on my 3rd redpoint.
Tried it up the arête, and up the groove, both ways have great (and severely differing) moves, and in my opinion are just as hard as each other in different ways. Sent it up the groove on my 3rd redpoint.
Hidden 2 Jan, 2017 Lead dog
AJM 2 Jan, 2017 Lead dog
with hms
with hms
Hidden 11 Dec, 2016 Lead dog
AJM 11 Dec, 2016 Lead dog
with hms
with hms
Dandan 5 Nov, 2016 Lead RP First 8a, about time too!
First 8a, about time too!
quiffhanger 27 Aug, 2016 Lead RP 2nd RP. Suited me well - first UK 8a-in-a-day.
with Rachel
2nd RP. Suited me well - first UK 8a-in-a-day.
with Rachel
Dandan 10 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Beta now sorted, into redpoint mode! Should go soon.
Beta now sorted, into redpoint mode! Should go soon.
Marcus 8 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Very pleased to have done this today, third redpoint go, when the friction improved. Thanks to rubben for great encouragement on the day and to RockSteady and Mick Ward for being patient over quite a few TR practice sessions. A powerful and technically complex route where one mistake means failure. Unquestionably 8a in its present form.
with rubben
Very pleased to have done this today, third redpoint go, when the friction improved. Thanks to rubben for great encouragement on the day and to RockSteady and Mick Ward for being patient over quite a few TR practice sessions. A powerful and technically complex route where one mistake means failure. Unquestionably 8a in its present form.
with rubben
Dandan 2 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
Dandan 18 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Back to this with new beta going direct on the arete and not off to the right hand flowstone edge. Feels do-able, just need to put a little more time in.
Back to this with new beta going direct on the arete and not off to the right hand flowstone edge. Feels do-able, just need to put a little more time in.
Beefy Bert 3 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead dog
rubben 19 May, 2016 Lead RP Absolutely brilliant route. Looks choosy, but climbs magnificently. Lots of droppable moves and every bit an 8a. I did an 8b in Turkey easier than this. Definitely worth the climb and certainly one of the best routes I've done in Dorset. 5th or 6th redpoint
with Marcus
Absolutely brilliant route. Looks choosy, but climbs magnificently. Lots of droppable moves and every bit an 8a. I did an 8b in Turkey easier than this. Definitely worth the climb and certainly one of the best routes I've done in Dorset. 5th or 6th redpoint
with Marcus
Ramon Marin 15 May, 2016 Lead RP Boom! The fight is over. 100% 8a in my opinion. It took me longer than any of the other 8a's I've done.
with viki harvey
Boom! The fight is over. 100% 8a in my opinion. It took me longer than any of the other 8a's I've done.
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 14 May, 2016 Lead dog One move from glory. The siege continues. It's getting me strong though, did my first E6 off the back of this.
with viki harvey
One move from glory. The siege continues. It's getting me strong though, did my first E6 off the back of this.
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 8 May, 2016 Lead dog Account opened. Worked it all weekend and finally have a workable beta. Not quite sure people say it's soft, it's the hardest 8a I've tried so far. If this is 7c+ then Cider soak is 7b+ ;-) Great moves and well psyched
with viki harvey
Account opened. Worked it all weekend and finally have a workable beta. Not quite sure people say it's soft, it's the hardest 8a I've tried so far. If this is 7c+ then Cider soak is 7b+ ;-) Great moves and well psyched
with viki harvey
PeterDawson 17 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Awesome route! First Boulder is squeezing then to finish I ended up pressing.
Awesome route! First Boulder is squeezing then to finish I ended up pressing.
i_a_coops 16 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
with conor
with conor
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt A small foothold has come off making the crux moves in the groove slightly harder. Nice moves and a great route.
with Xav
A small foothold has come off making the crux moves in the groove slightly harder. Nice moves and a great route.
with Xav
Ged Desforges ??, 2016 - Very good route after a day of traipsing round trying to find some non greasy rock. No idea on the grade, haRd to say with these techy ones
Very good route after a day of traipsing round trying to find some non greasy rock. No idea on the grade, haRd to say with these techy ones
JM 12 Dec, 2015 Lead RP Just creeps in at 8a I think.
with Anna Reiners
Just creeps in at 8a I think.
with Anna Reiners
BenL 1 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 Lead dog
Ed Babs 30 Apr, 2015 TR dog
with Marcus O
with Marcus O
La Mont 21 Mar, 2015 Lead RP
with James Doc
with James Doc
Hidden 14 Feb, 2015 Lead RP
Ally Smith 11 Jan, 2015 Lead dog 3 times up; got a sequence, but didn't seal the deal. Hard on the skin to work, but probably fine to RP
3 times up; got a sequence, but didn't seal the deal. Hard on the skin to work, but probably fine to RP
lewiz 30 Nov, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Oct, 2014 TR dog
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 TR dog
3 Names 15 Mar, 2014 Lead RP finally!
finally!
Hidden 19 Jan, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 16 Nov, 2013 Lead dog
marcduhig 24 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf Ok thought I was good at working out routes. Maybe not!
Ok thought I was good at working out routes. Maybe not!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 2 Jun, 2013 Lead RP First go today after getting the draws in. Stoked!
First go today after getting the draws in. Stoked!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27 May, 2013 Lead dog Fell one move away from the jug... gutted. Thats the 8th redpoint attempt. Maybe next time.
Fell one move away from the jug... gutted. Thats the 8th redpoint attempt. Maybe next time.
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 Lead dog
dannyboy83 2 Feb, 2013 Lead RP 2nd go, unexpectedly quick as it felt quite tough on the o/s. 7c+
2nd go, unexpectedly quick as it felt quite tough on the o/s. 7c+
nimajneb 2 Feb, 2013 TR dog
pezzerrr 26 Jan, 2013 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 7 Dec, 2012 Lead dog 5-11-12 lead through the crux, then fell off. One hard move to work out 11-11-12 remembering the sequence; dogged: 21-7-12; 13-7-12; 8-7-12; 1-7-12; 3-4-12
5-11-12 lead through the crux, then fell off. One hard move to work out 11-11-12 remembering the sequence; dogged: 21-7-12; 13-7-12; 8-7-12; 1-7-12; 3-4-12
Hidden 28 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
Dandan 21 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
with Linc
with Linc
Hidden 21 Jul, 2012 2nd dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
with Linc
with Linc
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 8 Jul, 2012 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 1 Jul, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 8 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 8 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 12 May, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Apr, 2012 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 3 Apr, 2012 Lead dog
Marti999 3 Apr, 2012 TR dog
La benya 26 Feb, 2012 Lead dog 2 years later... got it in three, all the moves done... should link it next time.
2 years later... got it in three, all the moves done... should link it next time.
Hidden 28 Jan, 2012 TR dog
jfreeman 13 Aug, 2011 Lead RP Second go.
with simonr
Second go.
with simonr
simonr 13 Aug, 2011 Lead dog Not so bad with Jon's beta - next time definitely. Soft?
Not so bad with Jon's beta - next time definitely. Soft?
Hawkscry 26 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
bustermartin 24 Jul, 2011 Lead dog so close to doing this, the undercut bit feels the hardest bit for me! need to stop trying hard routes when i dont have much time left!!!
so close to doing this, the undercut bit feels the hardest bit for me! need to stop trying hard routes when i dont have much time left!!!
dan gibson 17 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
with kyle rance
with kyle rance
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
Tom Heslam ?Mar, 2011 Lead RP Amazing and hard, hardest 8a so far.
Amazing and hard, hardest 8a so far.
Dandan 3 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
with Lard
with Lard
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf
sam_cox 20 Jun, 2010 Lead RP Second go, First Red point. Great route, thought I would be scared of the run out but did not think about it when on the route. Thanks Schof for the Beta and motivation.
with schof
Second go, First Red point. Great route, thought I would be scared of the run out but did not think about it when on the route. Thanks Schof for the Beta and motivation.
with schof
schof 10 May, 2010 Lead RP did it fast! im taking 8a and i dont care
with alex blaza
did it fast! im taking 8a and i dont care
with alex blaza
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
hamer89 24 Feb, 2008 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 19 Oct, 2007 Lead RP
bigie bob 10 Feb, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden ?Dec, 2004 Lead RP
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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set