Rockfax Description
A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves. Possibly 7c+. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14.4.94 14/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, UK 8a and up.

samparsons 19/Jan Lead dog

Feels much easier than Hurricane

Ally Smith 09/Dec/17 Lead dog

Beta from AJM - great sequence using the toe-hook Egyptian to get up to the arete hold off the minging crimp in the groove. Clip before this very tenuous - either powerful undercut, or balancey arete option. Going with skipping the clip mid-crux. 2nd go - good links. Should go in Jan?

with Helen
yan hawkins 14/Nov/17 Lead
with _m.cox_, ron
_m.cox_ 14/Nov/17 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 13/Nov/17 Lead dog

Worked out a sequence

brices 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

Awsome route, one of the best I have done on Portland. Climbed the arete with a series of big slaps. 6th redpoint over the weekend, skipped the clip in the groove and took the ride where you shouldnt fall off.

with Remus
Hidden 15/Oct/17 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/17 Lead dog
tommccluskey 09/Sep/17 Lead RP

Up the groove - great climbing but pretty soft...

with Jess
Hidden 22/Apr/17 Lead dog
Robcook100 17/Apr/17 Lead G/U
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead dog
jakecollins 07/Apr/17 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ?/Apr/17 Lead RP

Up the groove and first 8a (grade pending!) after six visits.

Hidden 17/Mar/17 TR dog
Hidden 13/Mar/17 TR dog
Shane Willis 23/Feb/17 Lead RP

Tried it up the arête, and up the groove, both ways have great (and severely differing) moves, and in my opinion are just as hard as each other in different ways. Sent it up the groove on my 3rd redpoint.

Hidden 02/Jan/17 Lead dog
AJM 02/Jan/17 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Dec/16 Lead dog
AJM 11/Dec/16 Lead dog
Dandan82 05/Nov/16 Lead RP

First 8a, about time too!

quiffhanger 27/Aug/16 Lead RP

2nd RP. Suited me well - first UK 8a-in-a-day.

with Rachel
Dandan82 10/Jul/16 Lead dog

Beta now sorted, into redpoint mode! Should go soon.

Marcus 08/Jul/16 Lead RP

Very pleased to have done this today, third redpoint go, when the friction improved. Thanks to rubben for great encouragement on the day and to RockSteady and Mick Ward for being patient over quite a few TR practice sessions. A powerful and technically complex route where one mistake means failure. Unquestionably 8a in its present form.

Dandan82 02/Jul/16 Lead dog
Dandan82 18/Jun/16 Lead dog

Back to this with new beta going direct on the arete and not off to the right hand flowstone edge. Feels do-able, just need to put a little more time in.

Beefy Bert 03/Jun/16 Lead RP
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead dog
rubben 19/May/16 Lead RP

Absolutely brilliant route. Looks choosy, but climbs magnificently. Lots of droppable moves and every bit an 8a. I did an 8b in Turkey easier than this. Definitely worth the climb and certainly one of the best routes I've done in Dorset. 5th or 6th redpoint

Ramon Marin 15/May/16 Lead RP

Boom! The fight is over. 100% 8a in my opinion. It took me longer than any of the other 8a's I've done.

with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 14/May/16 Lead dog

One move from glory. The siege continues. It's getting me strong though, did my first E6 off the back of this.

with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 08/May/16 Lead dog

Account opened. Worked it all weekend and finally have a workable beta. Not quite sure people say it's soft, it's the hardest 8a I've tried so far. If this is 7c+ then Cider soak is 7b+ ;-) Great moves and well psyched

with viki harvey
PeterDawson 17/Apr/16 Lead RP

Awesome route! First Boulder is squeezing then to finish I ended up pressing.

i_a_coops 16/Apr/16 Lead RP
with conor
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Feb/16 Lead rpt

A small foothold has come off making the crux moves in the groove slightly harder. Nice moves and a great route.

with Xav
Ged Desforges ??/2016 -

Very good route after a day of traipsing round trying to find some non greasy rock. No idea on the grade, haRd to say with these techy ones

JM 12/Dec/15 Lead RP

Just creeps in at 8a I think.

with Anna Reiners
BenL 01/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Aaron
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead dog
Ed Babs 30/Apr/15 TR dog
with Marcus O
La Mont 21/Mar/15 Lead RP
with James Doc
Hidden 14/Feb/15 Lead RP
Ally Smith 11/Jan/15 Lead dog

3 times up; got a sequence, but didn't seal the deal. Hard on the skin to work, but probably fine to RP

lewiz 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Oct/14 TR dog
Hidden 07/Sep/14 TR dog
3 Names 15/Mar/14 Lead RP


Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Jan/14 Lead RP

First outdoor session of 2014! 2nd redpoint attempt. Felt really hard when I first went up but quickly figured a sequence and then it went shortly after with freezing cold fingers! I saw this in a magazine when I first started climbing and have wanted to do it since. Not the best route I've done though and a bit too technical for my liking. Happy to do it in a session and a great way to start 2014!

with Nick, Charlotte Warner
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead dog
marcduhig 24/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Ok thought I was good at working out routes. Maybe not!

with Wayne
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 02/Jun/13 Lead RP

First go today after getting the draws in. Stoked!

with Steph
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/May/13 Lead dog

Fell one move away from the jug... gutted. Thats the 8th redpoint attempt. Maybe next time.

with Steph
Hidden 02/Mar/13 Lead dog
dannyboy83 02/Feb/13 Lead RP

2nd go, unexpectedly quick as it felt quite tough on the o/s. 7c+

with Ben Corbey
pezzerrr 26/Jan/13 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Dec/12 Lead dog

5-11-12 lead through the crux, then fell off. One hard move to work out 11-11-12 remembering the sequence; dogged: 21-7-12; 13-7-12; 8-7-12; 1-7-12; 3-4-12

Linc 28/Jul/12 Lead RP
Dandan82 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Linc 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jul/12 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Jul/12 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead RP
Linc 03/Apr/12 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Apr/12 Lead dog
Marti999 03/Apr/12 TR dog
La benya 26/Feb/12 Lead dog

2 years later... got it in three, all the moves done... should link it next time.

Hidden 28/Jan/12 TR dog
jfreeman 13/Aug/11 Lead RP

Second go.

simonr 13/Aug/11 Lead dog

Not so bad with Jon's beta - next time definitely. Soft?

Hawkscry 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
bustermartin 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

so close to doing this, the undercut bit feels the hardest bit for me! need to stop trying hard routes when i dont have much time left!!!

dan gibson 17/Apr/11 Lead RP
with kyle rance
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead RP
Tom Heslam ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Amazing and hard, hardest 8a so far.

with Rosea
Dandan82 03/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf
sam_cox 20/Jun/10 Lead RP

Second go, First Red point. Great route, thought I would be scared of the run out but did not think about it when on the route. Thanks Schof for the Beta and motivation.

with Andy
schof 10/May/10 Lead RP

did it fast! im taking 8a and i dont care

with alex blaza
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Feb/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 19/Oct/07 Lead RP
bigie bob 10/Feb/07 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Dec/04 Lead RP
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High 7c+
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Votes cast 45
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
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Ground Up
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