10m.
Rockfax Description
Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
For good protection, at the start of the climb, move slightly further right than the line indicated on the topo photo in the Dorset Rockfax guide.
Ticklists
Swanage Green Spots , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| lyneux | 15 Jul |
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βeta: This climb was the subject of a serious accident last weekend due in part to the poor protection in the lower section. Having climbed it earlier this year I’d support an upgrading of it to HS 4a which I think better reflects the protection. This is definitely not a warm up route for anyone leading below VS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This climb was the subject of a serious accident last weekend due in part to the poor protection in the lower section. Having climbed it earlier this year I’d support an upgrading of it to HS 4a which I think better reflects the protection. This is definitely not a warm up route for anyone leading below VS. |
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| Chris Kirby | 17 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Start is bold if you follow the guidebook line. Gear is available but few options and higher than you\'d like at the grade. | ||
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βeta: Start is bold if you follow the guidebook line. Gear is available but few options and higher than you'd like at the grade. |
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| MikeStuart | 24 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Felt fairly bold going straight up the middle of the rip. Wobbly block near top | ||
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βeta: Felt fairly bold going straight up the middle of the rip. Wobbly block near top |
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| Lloyders | 17 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: I agree with the above. i found a few runner placements before halfway. Good climbing with maybe one exposed move | ||
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βeta: I agree with the above. i found a few runner placements before halfway. Good climbing with maybe one exposed move |
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| Monk | 5 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I think you must have missed something dpmUk, because I found this route to be very well protected. Certainly stacks of gear before half way. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think you must have missed something dpmUk, because I found this route to be very well protected. Certainly stacks of gear before half way. |
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| dpmUK | 5 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Well protected? Well, yes after you've done the bold start on no gear. Was probably nearing half way before I got my first worthwile bit of gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Well protected? Well, yes after you've done the bold start on no gear. Was probably nearing half way before I got my first worthwile bit of gear. |
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Logged Ascents
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Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff
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Route of Interest
Avernus
Grade: S 4a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)