UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
For good protection, at the start of the climb, move slightly further right than the line indicated on the topo photo in the Dorset Rockfax guide.

Ticklists

Swanage Green Spots , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris Kirby 17 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Start is bold if you follow the guidebook line. Gear is available but few options and higher than you\'d like at the grade.
Show beta
βeta: Start is bold if you follow the guidebook line. Gear is available but few options and higher than you'd like at the grade.
MikeStuart 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Felt fairly bold going straight up the middle of the rip. Wobbly block near top
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βeta: Felt fairly bold going straight up the middle of the rip. Wobbly block near top
Lloyders 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the above. i found a few runner placements before halfway. Good climbing with maybe one exposed move
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the above. i found a few runner placements before halfway. Good climbing with maybe one exposed move
Monk 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I think you must have missed something dpmUk, because I found this route to be very well protected. Certainly stacks of gear before half way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think you must have missed something dpmUk, because I found this route to be very well protected. Certainly stacks of gear before half way.
dpmUK 5 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected? Well, yes after you've done the bold start on no gear. Was probably nearing half way before I got my first worthwile bit of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well protected? Well, yes after you've done the bold start on no gear. Was probably nearing half way before I got my first worthwile bit of gear.

Logged Ascents

1446 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 72 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 111
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Avernus

Grade: S 4a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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