Rockfax Description
Vast amounts of character, good climbing and an exciting abseil approach make this a memorable climb. The groove and crack-line in the centre of the wall gives steady climbing in impressive surroundings. Good gear. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, S.Garner, Tim Dunsby 11.8.74 11/Aug/1974

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Get out on Rock, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

islandlynx 09/Jun 2nd rpt

For the first time on a weekend trip we managed to get to the crag in time for a Friday route. Maybe it was just not meant to be, abbed down the perma greasy (wet) route to the hanging ab to find the sea was a little rougher than expected so asked Al to belay me up on the ab as a top rope. Just before setting off I got hit by a wave splash over the head. Managed to stick the soap holds but had to strain pretty hard. Second time I've tried this route and second time it's been soaked, I shan't bother again. If you do ab in it's good to clip some gear to the ab rope to keep you in to the wall

with Horton
Pete Scott 13/May Lead O/S
tsyrett 13/May 2nd β

Little wet making the start tricky but great after that

with pete scott
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead O/S
tobypittstucker 16/Aug/16 2nd
Mike Weatherill 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Toby
spidey 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jerome
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 04/Aug/16 2nd
with Ed
el_monty 25/Jul/16 2nd β
with Jerome
greedo 09/Jul/16 2nd

After abbing into space, realised couldn't make contact with the rock. Simon work ed it out and got attached. Was sopping wet and grease as lard up to the ledge. Did some aiding upto this point. Rest is a blast. Quite a burly route but great.

with Simon Chandler, Jason porter
afterthesend 13/May/16 Lead O/S
Leelogs 08/May/16 Lead dog

Sarah tried this first and came down so I gave it a go. Rested on her gear whilst I worked out the crux. Found it a 20m fight to the top but still enjoyable and utterly absorbing.

with Sarah, Dan
DanC1985 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Claire, Sarah
Adam Hill 28/Feb/16 2nd
with Simon
thomas108 ??/2016 -
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead G/U
Dizz 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Tricky by headtorch

with Ian F
ian d f 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Liz F
Hidden 07/Jul/15 Lead dog
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Chose this as a warm up did not expect to struggle this much! Think I was too far left but full on at the start!

ian bryant ??/2015 -
arandall 06/Dec/14 2nd dnf

spent ages on the belay so was cold at the start, then got stuck in some awkward position that I couldn't move from. Once I'd come off there was no way of getting back to the route some I went up our ab rope instead

with Jonny Dry, Wendy Matthews
Wendy Watthews 06/Dec/14 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead dog
mike lawrence? 03/Oct/14 Lead
with Metal
will moy 08/Sep/14 -

very cool route. Sustained 5a moves to half height then eases. Not an easy HVS tick. Gear and rock is superb throughout.

with paul taylor
LJC 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with George, ben.richards
ian d f 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Made a meal of the first bit

with Paul K
islandlynx 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Abbed in and realised how wet the crux was. so pre placed a nut. set off for the route and couldn't get over the wet holds so pulled on the gear. rest of the route was fine. Enjoyed the atmosphere and will be back. surprised it was wet given it was such a hot day.

with Amy
AmyAmy 22/Jun/14 -
mc fifi 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Hastrop
Stroppy 18/May/14 2nd O/S

After a bit of hanging around in space at the bottom of the abseil, a really nice route

Monkey_Alan 30/Mar/14 2nd
Dan Hostford 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Matt250 10/Aug/13 Lead

Sat on gear at the crux. Really fun route though.

with dh7892
dh7892 10/Aug/13 2nd

Wow, really good fun. Thanks to the previous climber's stuck offset nut near the bottom as it prevented my leader falling on my head at the belay!

steveprice.exmouth 01/Aug/13 2nd
with David Coley
MDR61 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S

What a fantastic adventure !!!!! Been wanting to do this for ages and it fully surpassed all expectations. There's currently a DMM offset 10 jammed in the crack on the wall by the crux (it's not been there long )

with Ben
Nexonen 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jake
Sophie Nunn 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Luxulyan 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Didymus 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rich
Sophie Nunn 06/May/13 Lead rpt
with Andy J
Nexonen 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with Sophie
mes32 05/May/13 Lead RP

Fun abseil. Slipped off near the start but got straight back on. First ever route at Swanage - interesting introduction!

with Wilki
jcook1980 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
with John Night
ianto ??/2013 -
pearson9596 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S

A fun abseil.

with Caroline Culwick, Lizzie Culwick
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead dog
Kevster 19/Aug/12 2nd rpt
tonevert 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
3 Names 09/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dan Craig
Hidden 20/Jun/12 2nd dog
ad111 20/Jun/12 Lead dog

Went the wrong way at the start, rest of the climb was amazing

w-watson 12/May/12 2nd
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 03/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Tough first half

with Paul Evans
Joris.Roulleau 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
manwithacam 24/Mar/12 2nd

been dreaming of doing Astrid for years. The whole thing is an adventure, but the climbing is good in itself. Good steep fun. Done on calm beautiful day.

with Joris
Alex the Alex ?/Feb/12 2nd dnf

Oh jesus... this one didnt go well...

Helen Gibson ??/2012 -
Ceridwen 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S

The climbers club give this VS! No way, it's not even easy for HVS! Good route though...

AlexD 18/Dec/11 2nd rpt
with Ceri
Hidden 17/Jul/11 2nd
3 Names 10/Jul/11 2nd β
reece.robinson 10/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Phil Wallam, Kev Faux
Kevster 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very wet lower section after all the rain. Dampness in the air made it quite greasy. Burley route taht just didn't suit me. 5a moves but just grunty. Very atmospheric with a bit of swell at the bottom!

with davenev
davenev 07/Jul/11 2nd
with luke
james.pilbeam 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
chris_B 17/Apr/11 2nd

quite a lot of faff but a good fun route in the shade for a hot day

Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead
hamish2016 ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with chris burn
Will Fuller 27/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Sarp Ackay
sarpedon 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
AlexD 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 25/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Alex
feilx 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
jacobjlloyd 24/Oct/10 2nd β
uncontrollable 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with Mark J
wild_nomad 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Quality climbing with a mad abseil entry. Give yourself plenty of time to sort this bit out and the hanging belay. It all seems a bit of a faff for 20 meters of climbing but it is just about worth it. Good climbing all the way up with the crux getting past the very awkward flake just up from the belay. Hard work and definately 5b in my opinion! After that it is easier but still has the odd hard move, but with good, largish gear. Defo HVS 5b!

with Martin Hore
Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/10 2nd
Graham Westbrook ?/Jul/10 Lead
mattkemp70 ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Westy
colkurtz ?/Jul/10 Lead
with Robb
lewiz 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Stunning line. Keen to go back and lead.

Alexandre Buisse 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

What a great route! Very atmospheric, exposed and good climbing, with lots of gear and serious without ever getting too desperate. Hard for the grade, though!

uncontrollable 19/Jun/10 Solo dnf

Managed to peel of 10 foot above the belay and went swimming. Should not have grabbed the ab-rope, jumaring with rope burns wasn't that much fun. Well I came looking for something ecxiting, guess I got it.

ChrisBrooke 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
al99 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
martinazando 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Tommy Harris ?/Jun/10 2nd
mick1jones 23/May/10 Lead dog

Pulled off loose hold, fell back, gear ripped and landed on Rich, breaking his left leg ('though didn't know it at the time). I climbed out and belayed Rich on tight ropes and prusik loops, escaping the helicopter ride. Feel really bad about it. A real adventure to cap the weekend

Hidden 19/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead O/S
wi11 31/Jan/10 2nd dog

Cold, assisted hoist past crux, nearly dropped nut key into the drink. Nice belay though

with Chris Gee
nick hawkins 18/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Got stuck in the large crack/flake about twelve feet up. Pete climbed it on a top rope but didn't place any gear so as I peeled off I was left hanging in space and had to prussick my way out.

with peter
trevor macalonan 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead rpt
feilx 15/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Bern
jezb1 12/Aug/09 2nd

Ld before.

Helen Gibson 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with dan
w.pettet-smith 12/Jul/09 2nd

big swells nearly washed me away.greasy holds low down made me want to run away.definately the climb of the day.

with david coley
feilx 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Angus
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead rpt
jezb1 25/May/09 Lead

Struggled on first few metres, couple of rests. After that it was all good. Awesome :)

Ally Smith 24/May/09 Lead

In rockboots 3 sizes too small gaffer taped over my toes...... Old grade of VS is a bit ridiculous.

Hidden 20/May/09 Lead O/S
crobinson 20/May/09 2nd

What he said below!!!!Sweet!!!

Lauren Davies 18/May/09 Lead O/S
with Rosie
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/08 2nd
givemetea 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Argh! Got jammed in the groove/flake about 10 feet from the belay. It was really awkward, wet, greasy and slopey. Apparently, I should have reached round onto the front of the large flake where I would have found some good holds. Hmmm....... I couldn't seem to find anything good round there.

with Tracey Tomlin
Ed Babs 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Trevor
trev_f 27/Sep/08 2nd β
with Ed
PaulW ?/Aug/08 Lead

great climb. solid 5A to start but has gear and gets easier

with simon
feilx 20/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with Graham Lewis
Hidden 24/Nov/07 2nd β
djdf 04/Nov/07 2nd dog

I was scared just seconding it! Proper sea cliff climbing with an ab in to a hanging belay. Atmospheric to say the least. Hardest thing I've been near on rock, and tbh, can't see myself ever being able to do it on lead. My head is too far away and I'm not bothered enough to get it right. It does feel like proper climbing though. Not like all this poncing up Severes. HArd work, scary and exhilarating.

with Virgil
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
feeko 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 13/Aug/06 Lead
with dai
dan gibson 29/May/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
Morgan Woods ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Place gear in crack before completing ab.

with Gareth
AJ007 ?/Mar/06 Lead
with Dan
Hidden ??/2006 -
brian watson ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Darren Cook
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
simon kimber ?/Feb/04 TR


Hidden 29/Sep/03 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S
strapless ?/May/03 Lead
with Paul Smart
Ian JL ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Henderson
Hidden ?/Jul/00 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
kp64zl ?/Oct/99 Lead
with Giles
Hidden 26/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Bob M 05/Sep/99 Lead
with Jill Stevens
FrankW 25/May/99 2nd O/S
with Joe
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Okecroak 08/Aug/92 Lead
with G Scott
Okecroak 08/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy
MoWalker3 14/Oct/90 -
steve taylor ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with mark grover
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Nigel Coe 20/Jun/80 Lead
with John Walmsley
Falko 21/Oct/78 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
31 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 39
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set