35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This rather worrying route starts up a wide groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).
1) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove, passing a roof on the right, then move left to gain an arete. Traverse diagonally right to belay below a wide crack. Awkward belays.
2) 4c, 15m. Follow the wide crack to the top. Poor gear. © Rockfax

FA. D.Hadlum, P.Grainger 10/Apr/1966

Feedback

UserDateNotes
matt perks 12 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think this is quite a dangerous route. The traverse is quite friable, the block on which you stand to belay is not 100%, and the anchors are okay rather than good. There is some gear on the top pitch but it's certainly not one to fall off and again the rock is not brilliant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think this is quite a dangerous route. The traverse is quite friable, the block on which you stand to belay is not 100%, and the anchors are okay rather than good. There is some gear on the top pitch but it's certainly not one to fall off and again the rock is not brilliant.
Richard Horn 8 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I am quite tall and found it very tricky to establish my feet over the small roof (typical Swanage move, similar to crux on Baboon at Subluminal) made harder with damp holds, although this move is bomber protected. The next moves to the arete I didnt find so bad as I could reach it fairly easily. Great moves on the second pitch although the gear was much less in abundance that the first pitch - small wires required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I am quite tall and found it very tricky to establish my feet over the small roof (typical Swanage move, similar to crux on Baboon at Subluminal) made harder with damp holds, although this move is bomber protected. The next moves to the arete I didnt find so bad as I could reach it fairly easily. Great moves on the second pitch although the gear was much less in abundance that the first pitch - small wires required.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tommy Harris 9 Jun AltLd O/S Lead P1.. lovely line, 2 very different pitches..
Lead P1.. lovely line, 2 very different pitches..
Andre Clarke 9 Jun AltLd O/S Tommy lead 5a pitch
Tommy lead 5a pitch
katiep 6 Jun Lead O/S Bold upper crack unless you have very large cams
with Eve L, Ben
Bold upper crack unless you have very large cams
with Eve L, Ben
andycash 16 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Alexus Vivian
with Alexus Vivian
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
Brown 3 Dec, 2017 2nd
with Stu
with Stu
adam088 24 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch, Quico went straight up, rather than the 4c
with Quico
Led 1st pitch, Quico went straight up, rather than the 4c
with Quico
Hidden 3 Jul, 2017 2nd
bryan61 3 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S a tough move at the overhang, 5b in my opinion
a tough move at the overhang, 5b in my opinion
Andrew Sloan 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led first pitch.
with pete
Led first pitch.
with pete
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
islandlynx 25 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Left with this route, the ugly sister of lighting wall etc, as the others were busy and the waves pined us in. Yes the ugly sister was obviously looser and bolder but also more fun. Roof and off width leg jams.
Left with this route, the ugly sister of lighting wall etc, as the others were busy and the waves pined us in. Yes the ugly sister was obviously looser and bolder but also more fun. Roof and off width leg jams.
TomRiddelsdell 24 Sep, 2016 2nd β I abolutely loved this route. The moves over the roof are tough and exciting. The rock on the start of p2 is a bit loose but the climing is easy enough. Then just when you think its all over...bam!...have a cheeky off width to finish off.
I abolutely loved this route. The moves over the roof are tough and exciting. The rock on the start of p2 is a bit loose but the climing is easy enough. Then just when you think its all over...bam!...have a cheeky off width to finish off.
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 2nd
Sam Husband 14 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Although I only seconded this it felt like it would be E1 to lead.
with Stroppy
Although I only seconded this it felt like it would be E1 to lead.
with Stroppy
Stroppy 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
richardashe 17 May, 2015 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 17 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 9 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
with Richard Lade
Ciderslider 22 Apr, 2015 AltLd Pissed off as for the first time ever I fell off on the Ruckle - blew the crux on second !!!!! got back on and climbed straight over the top rather than stepping left. Led second pitch - what a struggle - don't really do offwidths - no big gear and a bit run out in places.
with Ben
Pissed off as for the first time ever I fell off on the Ruckle - blew the crux on second !!!!! got back on and climbed straight over the top rather than stepping left. Led second pitch - what a struggle - don't really do offwidths - no big gear and a bit run out in places.
with Ben
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
bigbobbyking 25 May, 2014 2nd O/S Chris led in one pitch. Roof felt really hard.
with Chris Bull
Chris led in one pitch. Roof felt really hard.
with Chris Bull
Hidden 25 May, 2014 Lead
Hidden 24 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 21 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S P2 of Ashes and Diamonds. CC SW climbs has this down as VS 4c. Thought it felt bloody hard! Good lead from Iggy
with squicky
P2 of Ashes and Diamonds. CC SW climbs has this down as VS 4c. Thought it felt bloody hard! Good lead from Iggy
with squicky
andycash 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
mike.moss 16 Feb, 2014 AltLd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 16 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2.
Led P2.
ian d f 29 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
markfromstoke 29 Dec, 2013 AltLd
with ian d f
with ian d f
JoeCoxson 30 Nov, 2013 Lead dnf Well. Thought we were at Subluminal and we were wrong. Set up a hanging belay at the second belay ledge, and had an interesting climb back up. All in all a hard adventure which should have never happened.
with Felix Gillies-Creasey
Well. Thought we were at Subluminal and we were wrong. Set up a hanging belay at the second belay ledge, and had an interesting climb back up. All in all a hard adventure which should have never happened.
with Felix Gillies-Creasey
Hidden 30 Nov, 2013 2nd rpt
Paul Eckton 19 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with Joshua Leak
with Joshua Leak
Hidden 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd rpt
Kerm ?Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
Hidden 15 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
Hidden 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
ardzeiem 15 Jun, 2013 2nd Fab route with excellent route finding & variety of terrain
with Nicolas
Fab route with excellent route finding & variety of terrain
with Nicolas
patrickc 8 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?May, 2013 Lead rpt I hate this route, but it always seems better than ascending the ab somehow.
I hate this route, but it always seems better than ascending the ab somehow.
adam 24 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
budchawla 6 Apr, 2013 2nd dog P1 feels hard but I the roof direct without the traverse left to the arete. P2 is good quality climbing - surprised to find a big splitter off-width. Can be hard to protect unless your partner cleverly remembered to bring 2x number 5 cams :)
P1 feels hard but I the roof direct without the traverse left to the arete. P2 is good quality climbing - surprised to find a big splitter off-width. Can be hard to protect unless your partner cleverly remembered to bring 2x number 5 cams :)
budchawla ?Feb, 2013 2nd
Rockwarrior ?Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
crispycodd 20 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S As one single pitch. Had a problem getting out a Friend by the overhang. But the move left above the overhang was not too bad. The top offwidth crack was quite nice but required concentration all the way.
As one single pitch. Had a problem getting out a Friend by the overhang. But the move left above the overhang was not too bad. The top offwidth crack was quite nice but required concentration all the way.
Robin Woodward ?Sep, 2012 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 2nd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 17 Jul, 2012 2nd dog
Robin Woodward ?Jul, 2012 Lead
Hidden 30 May, 2012 Lead O/S
LukeyG 29 May, 2012 Lead
Hidden 12 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Kris suriyo 10 May, 2012 Lead O/S
nigel pearson 19 Nov, 2011 AltLd β led first pitch after partner had placed some of the gear
with Robin
led first pitch after partner had placed some of the gear
with Robin
Andy Peak 1 20 Sep, 2011 Lead
with Pete
with Pete
Graham Westbrook 2 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with wi11
with wi11
wi11 2 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
tonanf 22 Jun, 2011 Lead
with james
with james
tonanf 22 Jun, 2011 Lead
with james
with james
Hidden 21 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 21 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1. Tricky moves around the roof, then a poorly-protected and loose P2.
Led P1. Tricky moves around the roof, then a poorly-protected and loose P2.
LucaC 25 Apr, 2011 - P1. Easy going until the overhanging corner where there were some very awkward moves to place gear before moving left onto the face. Great little right traverse before the ledge - awkward belay spot, but managed to sit down. Dive bombed by a bird (possibly nesting on Elysium) which decided to scrabble at my helmet and shat on my legs - thanks a bunch!
P1. Easy going until the overhanging corner where there were some very awkward moves to place gear before moving left onto the face. Great little right traverse before the ledge - awkward belay spot, but managed to sit down. Dive bombed by a bird (possibly nesting on Elysium) which decided to scrabble at my helmet and shat on my legs - thanks a bunch!
ben.richards 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Nice offwidth action on P2...the description says "poor gear" however I managed to get some good protection in the form of two stacked hexes deep in the crack, which made the last few moves a little less daunting!
with LucaC
Nice offwidth action on P2...the description says "poor gear" however I managed to get some good protection in the form of two stacked hexes deep in the crack, which made the last few moves a little less daunting!
with LucaC
clipskipper 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Tricky roof forms the crux on the bottom section, with the not-so-difficult-as-it-looks crack at the top. Nice enough route
Tricky roof forms the crux on the bottom section, with the not-so-difficult-as-it-looks crack at the top. Nice enough route
halfwaythere 9 Apr, 2011 2nd
jezb1 7 Apr, 2011 AltLd P2, very nice route only placed 3 runners and went for it.
P2, very nice route only placed 3 runners and went for it.
Alan100 3 Apr, 2011 - Great fun getting between the roof and the arete - nice feeling of exposure but with good gear :)
Great fun getting between the roof and the arete - nice feeling of exposure but with good gear :)
Rowan Mitchell 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S I climbed the second pitch
I climbed the second pitch
Hidden 20 Feb, 2011 Lead rpt
cem 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd rpt Led p1
with GrahamD
Led p1
with GrahamD
Theeni ?Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
mike.moss ??, 2010 Lead O/S
duncan 22 Jul, 2009 AltLd
Elliot King LC&CC ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S
scott titt ??, 2009 -
mutt ??, 2009 -
with Naomi Moran
with Naomi Moran
Hidden 12 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
RocknRoll 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S I lead the first pitch (5a) quite tricky getting round the overhang. Felt 'out there' but the fun was all over when I realised the arette was within reach and I didn't have to go straight up.
with Peter Murphy
I lead the first pitch (5a) quite tricky getting round the overhang. Felt 'out there' but the fun was all over when I realised the arette was within reach and I didn't have to go straight up.
with Peter Murphy
Ed Babs 26 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with John Vet
with John Vet
Bob M 8 Jun, 2008 AltLd Paul led pitch 1 (crux). Scary stance but good gear on top offwidth.
with riggy
Paul led pitch 1 (crux). Scary stance but good gear on top offwidth.
with riggy
brian watson ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
chrisbevins ??, 2007 2nd
jamieevans ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
dan gibson 3 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
with jamie evans
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 AltLd
pezzerrr 26 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
bigie bob ??, 2005 Lead O/S
feilx ??, 2005 -
Richard Horn ?Nov, 2004 AltLd O/S
HannahFrancis 1 Aug, 2004 2nd
with DAJ, Clare Francis
with DAJ, Clare Francis
Marq 13 Mar, 2004 AltLd O/S D,M
with Daniel Dennehy
D,M
with Daniel Dennehy
benjino ?Jan, 2004 -
Boxy 11 Oct, 2003 Lead O/S
with Mick
with Mick
steveb2006 23 Jun, 2002 Lead Worthwhile. Were going to do Lightening Wall but an incompetent pair are climbing very slowly-they eventually end up stuck and have to get rescued by someone above
with Roy Ruddle
Worthwhile. Were going to do Lightening Wall but an incompetent pair are climbing very slowly-they eventually end up stuck and have to get rescued by someone above
with Roy Ruddle
Hidden 4 Oct, 2001 AltLd
cem 22 Oct, 2000 AltLd O/S Led p1
with Miles Butteriss
Led p1
with Miles Butteriss
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
five ?May, 1998 AltLd dog
Dave Cundy ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Phil Lee
with Phil Lee
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead
kylo-342 ?Jan, 1992 AltLd finished up Ashes and Diamonds
with Keith
finished up Ashes and Diamonds
with Keith
sdht ??, 1992 -
with Dave Ward
with Dave Ward
mark-abz 29 Apr, 1990 Lead
with Simon K
with Simon K
steve taylor ?Mar, 1990 AltLd
with Ket
with Ket
Pete Nugent 26 Mar, 1989 - VS 4c in the 1986 guide
VS 4c in the 1986 guide
Nigel Coe 12 Aug, 1988 Lead
with Duncan Turner
with Duncan Turner
RichardMc 21 Jun, 1986 AltLd
with Steve Gould
with Steve Gould
Brian Wilderspin 29 Dec, 1985 -
JimR ??, 1983 -
Chris Terrey ?Mar, 1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
with Mike Morrison
Nigel Coe 18 May, 1980 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
with Steve Portnoi
Ken Taylor 1 Nov, 1978 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
Nigel Coe 8 Oct, 1978 Lead
with John Walmsley
with John Walmsley
Dave Musgrove 1 Dec, 1974 -
with Keith Butler
with Keith Butler
Martin Bennett 4 Jun, 1970 -
with JD
with JD
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 34
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set