UKC Logbook - 'Director's Groove'

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This rather worrying route starts up a wide groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).
1) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove, passing a roof on the right, then move left to gain an arete. Traverse diagonally right to belay below a wide crack. Awkward belays.
2) 4c, 15m. Follow the wide crack to the top. Poor gear. © Rockfax

FA. D.Hadlum, P.Grainger 10/Apr/1966.

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User	Date		Notes
matt perks	12 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I think this is quite a dangerous route. The traverse is quite friable, the block on which you stand to belay is not 100%, and the anchors are okay rather than good. There is some gear on the top pitch but it's certainly not one to fall off and again the rock is not brilliant.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I think this is quite a dangerous route. The traverse is quite friable, the block on which you stand to belay is not 100%, and the anchors are okay rather than good. There is some gear on the top pitch but it's certainly not one to fall off and again the rock is not brilliant.
Richard Horn	8 Nov, 2004	Show βeta βeta: I am quite tall and found it very tricky to establish my feet over the small roof (typical Swanage move, similar to crux on Baboon at Subluminal) made harder with damp holds, although this move is bomber protected. The next moves to the arete I didnt find so bad as I could reach it fairly easily. Great moves on the second pitch although the gear was much less in abundance that the first pitch - small wires required.
Show beta βeta: I am quite tall and found it very tricky to establish my feet over the small roof (typical Swanage move, similar to crux on Baboon at Subluminal) made harder with damp holds, although this move is bomber protected. The next moves to the arete I didnt find so bad as I could reach it fairly easily. Great moves on the second pitch although the gear was much less in abundance that the first pitch - small wires required.