UKC Logbook - 'Director's Groove / Ashes and Diamonds Combination'

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An established combination that starts up a flared groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).
1) 5a, 25m. Climb the flared groove to the faultline, passing a triangular roof on the right. Move left just above the overhang to gain an arete. Traverse diagonally right to belay below a wide crack. Awkward belays.
2) 4c, 15m. Move back left to a pedestal. From the top of the pedestal, climb the wall leftwards to a ledge. Move right and climb some blocks to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the first pitch of Director's Groove, then move left to the ledge under the abseil point to belay. Move right to start the second pitch of Ashes and Diamonds.

Ticklists

SW Climbs - Swanage , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Iain Weymouth	2 Oct, 2023	Show βeta βeta: I've done the following variant a few times in one pitch avoiding the precarious mid-route belay. From the teeter left to the short arete at 15m carry on up and slightly left to a couple of large flakes. The short final wall is technical, protected with holds appearing when you need them. It looks like a logical line, good moves, well protected, HVS 5a.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I've done the following variant a few times in one pitch avoiding the precarious mid-route belay. From the teeter left to the short arete at 15m carry on up and slightly left to a couple of large flakes. The short final wall is technical, protected with holds appearing when you need them. It looks like a logical line, good moves, well protected, HVS 5a.