UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An established combination that starts up a flared groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in).
1) 5a, 25m. Climb the flared groove to the faultline, passing a triangular roof on the right. Move left just above the overhang to gain an arete. Traverse diagonally right to belay below a wide crack. Awkward belays.
2) 4c, 15m. Move back left to a pedestal. From the top of the pedestal, climb the wall leftwards to a ledge. Move right and climb some blocks to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the first pitch of Director's Groove, then move left to the ledge under the abseil point to belay. Move right to start the second pitch of Ashes and Diamonds.

Ticklists

SW Climbs - Swanage , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 2 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I've done the following variant a few times in one pitch avoiding the precarious mid-route belay. From the teeter left to the short arete at 15m carry on up and slightly left to a couple of large flakes. The short final wall is technical, protected with holds appearing when you need them. It looks like a logical line, good moves, well protected, HVS 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I've done the following variant a few times in one pitch avoiding the precarious mid-route belay. From the teeter left to the short arete at 15m carry on up and slightly left to a couple of large flakes. The short final wall is technical, protected with holds appearing when you need them. It looks like a logical line, good moves, well protected, HVS 5a.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jo

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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