35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An incredibly intimidating line that requires good route finding on the second pitch, which snakes through the upper overhangs. Start 7m right of a large roof-capped corner.
1) 5a, 16m. Pull up through bulges to a rest above. Climb rightwards to an arete, then move around it to a corner that ends at the fault-line and a belay.
2) 5b, 19m. Climb the wall on the left, past a small overhang, then move right to below a roof. Pull strenuously through the roof at a break to a corner. Follow this to a final overhang which is passed on its left side. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax

FA. P.Bell, T.Goodfellow 11/Jul/1963

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Cool Names, Dorset

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UserDateNotes
mutt 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful.
Different Steve 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right.
El Greyo 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tommy Harris 27 May AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 27 May AltLd rpt Led P2
Led P2
Trace 12 May AltLd O/S
Andre Clarke ?? 2nd dog
jsmcfarland 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Unreasonably hard at HVS or whatever it got in the guidebook I was using. Great route tho! Went direct up the overhanging groove and continuation corner instead of going around the arete to the (HVS?) corner
Unreasonably hard at HVS or whatever it got in the guidebook I was using. Great route tho! Went direct up the overhanging groove and continuation corner instead of going around the arete to the (HVS?) corner
Hidden 15 Sep, 2018 2nd rpt
Michael Bortoluzzi 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Richard Kendrick 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Stroppy 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Did Jo many years ago so was keen to come back and climb the sister route. Good with some tough pull around the roof.
with RKirke
Did Jo many years ago so was keen to come back and climb the sister route. Good with some tough pull around the roof.
with RKirke
RKirke 23 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Misha 16 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S A bit damp. Good route and well protected but thought the bottom crux and the pull through the overhang high up was quite hard for the grade. I see it's E1 5b here as opposed to HVS 5a. I'd say HVS 5b. Tim led in one pitch.
A bit damp. Good route and well protected but thought the bottom crux and the pull through the overhang high up was quite hard for the grade. I see it's E1 5b here as opposed to HVS 5a. I'd say HVS 5b. Tim led in one pitch.
Hidden 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
LucaC 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S P1.
with Bede
P1.
with Bede
Paul Eckton 10 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Kevster
with Kevster
Kevster 10 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
Carl.HECC 10 Jun, 2018 2nd Fell off on "the" overhang. Will need to get it clean another time.
Fell off on "the" overhang. Will need to get it clean another time.
Climber_Tim 20 Nov, 2017 -
andycash 2 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Rob Butcher
with Rob Butcher
robgixer 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S P1 into second pitch of Jo
P1 into second pitch of Jo
simibrown 10 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Rich
with Rich
JendeHoxar 18 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 18 Mar, 2017 2nd
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 AltLd O/S
Dominic Acland 29 Dec, 2016 2nd
petecallaghan 29 Dec, 2016 Lead dnf The guidebook gives it HVS 5a. I think I prefer the UKC grade. I placed a size 4 dragon cam to protect the initial moves but wasn't brave/strong enough to pull up over the roof. I lowered off twice on the cam, and ran away to finale groove.
The guidebook gives it HVS 5a. I think I prefer the UKC grade. I placed a size 4 dragon cam to protect the initial moves but wasn't brave/strong enough to pull up over the roof. I lowered off twice on the cam, and ran away to finale groove.
EeFu 9 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 9 Oct, 2016 Lead
with EeFu
with EeFu
Pero 14 Sep, 2016 2nd
bryan61 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with m meaney
with m meaney
Hidden 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 21 Jul, 2016 2nd β
Bruise Apprentice 30 May, 2016 2nd O/S Vince led this in one pitch.
Vince led this in one pitch.
bencoope 1 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett ?May, 2016 AltLd rpt Pitch 2
with Andy O'Conner
Pitch 2
with Andy O'Conner
greedo ??, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch
with Martin hoare
Led 1st pitch
with Martin hoare
Matt.c.Warner 22 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Simon
with Simon
Hidden 29 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Albachoss 31 May, 2015 Lead dog Tried to link as one pitch, p1 was excellent but i totally misread p2 and instead went gardening leftwards
with Andrea
Tried to link as one pitch, p1 was excellent but i totally misread p2 and instead went gardening leftwards
with Andrea
Ciderslider 11 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S Fantastic route, a little more sustained than Jo.
with LucaC
Fantastic route, a little more sustained than Jo.
with LucaC
LucaC 11 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
Hidden 30 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
Mark Warnett ?Oct, 2014 AltLd
Dave Thompson 17 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Oli
with Oli
Hidden 17 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Ash Sayers 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Couldn't have been on the route, second pitch was easy climbing but a complete horror fest.
Couldn't have been on the route, second pitch was easy climbing but a complete horror fest.
James Oswald 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Pleasant
with John Bramwell
Pleasant
with John Bramwell
Ahab 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 2nd
clipskipper 20 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt Both pitches. Footholds falling off the second!
with Jerome
Both pitches. Footholds falling off the second!
with Jerome
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
ian d f 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt
with Paul K, Pete H
with Paul K, Pete H
mick1jones 15 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Led 2nd pitch but couldn't unlock the move so passed lead to Rich
with Rich Rogers
Led 2nd pitch but couldn't unlock the move so passed lead to Rich
with Rich Rogers
joedoherty 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
mattprince 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt
funsized 30 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
mc fifi 30 May, 2014 AltLd O/S lead 1st pitch. good solid climb.
lead 1st pitch. good solid climb.
JM 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S
burto 4 May, 2014 Lead
with bruce
with bruce
Duncan Campbell 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2 which has a wild crux but isn't much harder overall than Jo.
Led P2 which has a wild crux but isn't much harder overall than Jo.
Martin Haworth 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S
ben.meakin 3 May, 2014 2nd
Tony Holdsworth 3 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
with Martin Haworth
Mike_Hayes 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S In one. E1 in definitive guide - Warrants it IMO. Awesome though.
In one. E1 in definitive guide - Warrants it IMO. Awesome though.
brices 9 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Really good value for this one
with remus
Really good value for this one
with remus
Hidden 9 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
cymjt ??, 2014 -
Hidden 20 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 3 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 29 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S P2
P2
Dan Lane 29 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S P1. P2 was pretty exciting!
P1. P2 was pretty exciting!
will moy 16 May, 2013 AltLd O/S p1, good route
with paul taylor
p1, good route
with paul taylor
paultaylor 16 May, 2013 AltLd O/S P2
P2
mattc 5 May, 2013 2nd dog Took a wrong line and got stuck in an extra roof
Took a wrong line and got stuck in an extra roof
bigie bob 4 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
adam 24 21 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd rpt Led P1.
Led P1.
uncontrollable 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S led p2
led p2
ianto ??, 2013 -
Monkey_Alan 14 Oct, 2012 AltLd Led P1.
Led P1.
Julian Prieto 14 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2
Led P2
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
tonevert 29 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
jcook1980 5 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Dan Moore
with Dan Moore
Hidden 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Dave89 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch and ali led the first
with Ali
Led 2nd pitch and ali led the first
with Ali
philhilo 8 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Bottom bulge taxing with very heavy sac - invited everyone to take everything inc spare rack shoes food water etc! Led top pitch after Phil had a go.
with Phil simister, heg
Bottom bulge taxing with very heavy sac - invited everyone to take everything inc spare rack shoes food water etc! Led top pitch after Phil had a go.
with Phil simister, heg
cooperman 25 Jun, 2012 AltLd P2 space walk :))
with Greg Foster
P2 space walk :))
with Greg Foster
MarkRyder 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with IainAM
with IainAM
Hidden 2 Jun, 2012 2nd β
Hidden 27 May, 2012 2nd
djking1983 23 May, 2012 Lead O/S Led p1 of Thunderball and P2 of Jo. Good sustained steep climbing. Hot day
with Steve Knaggs
Led p1 of Thunderball and P2 of Jo. Good sustained steep climbing. Hot day
with Steve Knaggs
Monkey_Alan 13 May, 2012 AltLd Led P2. Comitting start to P1, then steady climbing. Pulling through the roof on P2 is full-on!
Led P2. Comitting start to P1, then steady climbing. Pulling through the roof on P2 is full-on!
Stewart Armstrong 13 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Monkey Alan
with Monkey Alan
Haydn Jones 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with pep
with pep
Kevster 25 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Good value all the way, takes tonnes of medium nuts.
Good value all the way, takes tonnes of medium nuts.
couchio 3 Sep, 2011 2nd rpt
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
tommytuffa 25 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch of Jo, then Luke did O2 of thunderball. Very exposed
Led 1st pitch of Jo, then Luke did O2 of thunderball. Very exposed
lukehunt 25 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
davewing 30 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Lee
with Lee
chris_B 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S a very hard 2nd pitch at hvs!
a very hard 2nd pitch at hvs!
hamish2016 ?Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with chris burn
with chris burn
ian d f 19 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Emmanuel
with Emmanuel
msoldn 22 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S Great fun!
with feilx
Great fun!
with feilx
feilx 21 Nov, 2010 2nd rpt
with msoldn
with msoldn
AlexD 21 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 21 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
Chris Sansum 26 Sep, 2010 AltLd dog Chris p1, Gary p2. Found the start of p1 very hard (bold) for the grade. Had about 3 rests before finally commiting. Great route though!
with Gary Lewin
Chris p1, Gary p2. Found the start of p1 very hard (bold) for the grade. Had about 3 rests before finally commiting. Great route though!
with Gary Lewin
Different Steve 26 Sep, 2010 AltLd rpt
with Guy Reid
with Guy Reid
Hidden 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
staceyjg 24 Jul, 2010 2nd dog Barra led both pitches. This is the hardest 5a that I have ever climbed. Had a nice swing out into the sea on my second attempt at ascent.
Barra led both pitches. This is the hardest 5a that I have ever climbed. Had a nice swing out into the sea on my second attempt at ascent.
minaturechris 24 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Simon Allcock ?Jun, 2010 AltLd led first pitch
with Mark
led first pitch
with Mark
mattkemp70 ?May, 2010 2nd
with Westy
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
clipskipper 22 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Good fun thuggy roof climbing. Lots of holds and lots of gear.
with Davey Boy
Good fun thuggy roof climbing. Lots of holds and lots of gear.
with Davey Boy
Dave Cundy ?Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Arwel Roberts, Christian Saxtoft
with Arwel Roberts, Christian Saxtoft
tobydunford 21 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
Hidden 10 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
matt.woodfield 3 May, 2009 Lead
dickie01 11 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Loved it, positive holds and good exposure
with third, Nick Briggs
Loved it, positive holds and good exposure
with third, Nick Briggs
Hidden 14 Mar, 2009 2nd rpt
Hidden 14 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
mutt ??, 2009 -
with Naomi Moran
with Naomi Moran
DDDD ??, 2009 Lead RP
scott titt ??, 2009 -
Different Steve 26 Sep, 2008 AltLd rpt Led P2
with Guy Reid
Led P2
with Guy Reid
Ed Babs 13 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Coz
with Coz
Hidden 21 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
Oliver Sherman 30 Sep, 2007 AltLd
Different Steve 22 Sep, 2007 2nd rpt
with Martin Hore & Guy Reid
with Martin Hore & Guy Reid
brian watson ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden 17 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
AJ007 17 Sep, 2006 AltLd
AJ007 ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 28 May, 2006 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 1 May, 2006 AltLd dog Poor routefinding and loose rock - Doh!
with Craig Evans
Poor routefinding and loose rock - Doh!
with Craig Evans
dan gibson 28 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
with jamie evans
with jamie evans
jamieevans ??, 2006 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Outdoorfun37 12 Apr, 2005 2nd
with Paul Chidel
with Paul Chidel
feilx ??, 2005 -
duncan 16 Nov, 2003 AltLd O/S
markfromstoke 5 Jun, 2003 2nd
with Pete H
with Pete H
markfromstoke 5 Jun, 2003 AltLd
with Pete H
with Pete H
Dave Cundy ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wood
with Dave Wood
Hidden 5 Sep, 2001 2nd
aged_ape ?Jun, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Rob B
with Rob B
WB 13 Mar, 1999 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
kylo-342 ?Oct, 1996 AltLd
with Pete A, Jason M
with Pete A, Jason M
lost.arrow 8 Apr, 1996 AltLd
with Iain Kerr
with Iain Kerr
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Robmwatt ??, 1994 -
steve taylor ?May, 1989 AltLd
with Ket
with Ket
Nigel Coe ??, 1988 - Approx date
with Pete Oxley, Tim Dunsby
Approx date
with Pete Oxley, Tim Dunsby
DDDD ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Neil
with Neil
GuyM ??, 1985 -
JimR ??, 1983 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 47
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set