36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic crack-line which is sustained, athletic and protectable all the way. Start 10m right of the big corner below the line.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the crack and strenuously gain an overhanging corner which leads to the fault-line.
2) 5b, 18m. Pull through the roof above and move up to another one. Step right and over the roof then continue up the right-hand of two grooves. At the top step left to an exit scramble. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 4.9.71. FFA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley 1977 04/Sep/1971

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Cool Names

Feedback

UserDateNotes
ian bryant 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above!
daveycrocket 19 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B.
kevin stephens 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage.
ap 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: felt about that to me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: felt about that to me
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
alvaroBV 15 Sep 2nd dog Struggled like hell on the first roof until I laid back it. The second roof was heinous as well to get the gear off and make it to the top. Climbed with Giuseppe
Struggled like hell on the first roof until I laid back it. The second roof was heinous as well to get the gear off and make it to the top. Climbed with Giuseppe
katiep 6 Jun 2nd β Wow what a route. Felt harder than the other E2s done at the ruckle today
with Ben
Wow what a route. Felt harder than the other E2s done at the ruckle today
with Ben
Hidden 1 Jun 2nd dog
Mike_Hayes 1 Jun Lead O/S
with Cat
with Cat
Dan Arkle 5 May 2nd Hard move, was close
with eszter
Hard move, was close
with eszter
TomRiddelsdell 8 Feb AltLd dog
islandlynx 8 Feb AltLd Led p2. Don't think I'll ever lead p1. Probably had a bit of a tight rope to get me through the crux. It's bloody steep and difficult. Kudos to Tom for getting through it after taking a fall.
Led p2. Don't think I'll ever lead p1. Probably had a bit of a tight rope to get me through the crux. It's bloody steep and difficult. Kudos to Tom for getting through it after taking a fall.
Trace 16 Sep, 2018 2nd dog Wow. Sustained. Exposed and meaty. Swung out at the fist big overhang and had to prussik up to get back onto the route!
Wow. Sustained. Exposed and meaty. Swung out at the fist big overhang and had to prussik up to get back onto the route!
brian watson 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Mega! In one pitch. Cruxy move then steady.
with Trace
Mega! In one pitch. Cruxy move then steady.
with Trace
Hidden 14 Sep, 2018 Lead
pearson9596 8 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Had a go at this a few years back
with Mel, onlyfoddington
Had a go at this a few years back
with Mel, onlyfoddington
onlyfoddington 8 Jul, 2017 2nd dog Took many goes to get through the initial roof before successfully experimenting with layback ink off my knees. I thought the top pitch was very good.
with Mel, pearson9596
Took many goes to get through the initial roof before successfully experimenting with layback ink off my knees. I thought the top pitch was very good.
with Mel, pearson9596
NuclearNev ??, 2017 -
Stroppy 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd rpt Account closed. Felt much less arduous this time!
with RKirke
Account closed. Felt much less arduous this time!
with RKirke
RKirke 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd β
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Mike Weatherill 4 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andy Peak 1 1 May, 2016 AltLd O/S First pitch, the same move as the unprintable at Stanage, years I've wanted todo this
with Theo
First pitch, the same move as the unprintable at Stanage, years I've wanted todo this
with Theo
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 1 May, 2016 AltLd O/S 5 start route. led p2, fell seconding p1.
5 start route. led p2, fell seconding p1.
LJKing 30 Apr, 2016 2nd dog Led in fine style by the Clarkson machine. Unfortunately I did not aquit myself so well. In my defense it was late in the day and I was very cold when I started climbing. I came off on steep ground by the crux and ended up hanging over the sea ten feet below the roof and some way away from the rock. After prussiking and some aid I managed to restore normality and climbed the top bit quite well! A great climb though and on solid rock.
with Paul Clarkson
Led in fine style by the Clarkson machine. Unfortunately I did not aquit myself so well. In my defense it was late in the day and I was very cold when I started climbing. I came off on steep ground by the crux and ended up hanging over the sea ten feet below the roof and some way away from the rock. After prussiking and some aid I managed to restore normality and climbed the top bit quite well! A great climb though and on solid rock.
with Paul Clarkson
islandlynx 16 Apr, 2016 2nd Felt tough on second but isn't that always the Swanage way.
with Matt77
Felt tough on second but isn't that always the Swanage way.
with Matt77
Matt77 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Did it in one long pitch. Brilliant route well worthy of three stars; it has a bit of everything! First Swanage E2.
with Shane
Did it in one long pitch. Brilliant route well worthy of three stars; it has a bit of everything! First Swanage E2.
with Shane
MarcinK 15 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
with Pavlina B
with Pavlina B
Hidden 7 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
LucaC 4 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
with George
with George
Mark Warnett ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S This would be top 50 at any area in the UK. Its so steep and exposure is amazing. You go from 0 to pumped stupid in no time, and the moves are easy to get wrong. Total brawl but a fun one.
with Andy O'Conner
This would be top 50 at any area in the UK. Its so steep and exposure is amazing. You go from 0 to pumped stupid in no time, and the moves are easy to get wrong. Total brawl but a fun one.
with Andy O'Conner
Sophie Nunn 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S Led in 1 pitch, brilliant route.
with Floris
Led in 1 pitch, brilliant route.
with Floris
Stroppy 5 Apr, 2015 Lead dog Had a bit of a fight with the crux
Had a bit of a fight with the crux
Sam Husband 5 Apr, 2015 2nd dog Yes, yes that is harder than I can climb. Ed valiantly dogged us through P1 and we both found P2 quite easy. Serious but undoubtedly brilliant for those strong enough to do it!
with Stroppy
Yes, yes that is harder than I can climb. Ed valiantly dogged us through P1 and we both found P2 quite easy. Serious but undoubtedly brilliant for those strong enough to do it!
with Stroppy
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
AlexD 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S led p1 and yep, not as hard as it looks! p2 great fun.
with Ed Babs
led p1 and yep, not as hard as it looks! p2 great fun.
with Ed Babs
Hidden 5 May, 2014 Lead dog
Graham Westbrook 17 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Led the first pitch. Brilliant climb and not as hard as it looked!
Led the first pitch. Brilliant climb and not as hard as it looked!
Luxulyan 30 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
ianto ??, 2013 -
Kevster 29 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Strenuous for most of the way.
Strenuous for most of the way.
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 2nd rpt
duncan 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S In one pitch
In one pitch
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
mwatson ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
mwatson ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
pigeonslipper 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 Lead
colkurtz 30 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Robb
with Robb
Helen Gibson 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd first attempt at leading an E2, didn't manage to get the crux clean, but loved the route!
first attempt at leading an E2, didn't manage to get the crux clean, but loved the route!
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd dog
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 AltLd dog
jacobjlloyd 5 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Seconded first pitch - jealous of the lead I confess, but one must be gracious! Fantastic pitch. Really good fun. Topping out in the rain proved the crux, as usual...
with nathan
Seconded first pitch - jealous of the lead I confess, but one must be gracious! Fantastic pitch. Really good fun. Topping out in the rain proved the crux, as usual...
with nathan
pezzerrr 23 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S In one pitch
In one pitch
cem 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd dog Led p2. We did p2 cleanly but neither of us distinguished himself on p1
with GrahamD
Led p2. We did p2 cleanly but neither of us distinguished himself on p1
with GrahamD
Ed Babs 10 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S in 1 pitch - superb + Alt Leads with AlexD 16/05/14 (P2)
with Harry
in 1 pitch - superb + Alt Leads with AlexD 16/05/14 (P2)
with Harry
Hidden 3 Jun, 2009 2nd
Hidden 3 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
scott titt ??, 2009 -
DDDD ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
chrisbevins ??, 2007 AltLd
dan gibson 28 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
hailtryfan ?Apr, 2006 2nd
with Daniel
with Daniel
beanfingers 19 Mar, 2006 2nd must go back and lead this
with felix
must go back and lead this
with felix
AJ007 ?Mar, 2006 2nd dog
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 AltLd
Ian Jones ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
feilx ??, 2005 -
Hidden 4 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
aged_ape ?Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 AltLd O/S
Roget 25 Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden ?May, 1998 2nd
William Robertson ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
steve taylor ?May, 1990 AltLd
with Joff Cook
with Joff Cook
Nigel Coe 29 Aug, 1988 -
with Ray Mardon
with Ray Mardon
DDDD ??, 1986 AltLd
JimR ??, 1983 -
Falko 30 Oct, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
Falko 29 Oct, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set